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RV load center

MrNatural22

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Ok I’ve got this double load center box going in and the plan was two 15amp breakers going to two separate outlets.
There’ll be one line in from the shore plug hot, neutral and ground. Two out. For two breakers there’s two hot lug connections on top. Neutral buss on right and a separate two place ground buss bar (not attached yet) on the left. For both hots to have power for breakers from one shore in is it ok to have a jumper between the top two hot lugs? Or is there a different way of connecting two hot lugs?

Am I reading these connections wrong?? ??

Not an electrician but capable of learning basic AC connections.

B79F7F8D-C01F-4E89-8E33-B3D865FB8668.jpeg
 
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Hi the two large upper lugs are Power (hot) in. These can have a properly sized Jumper across them. Neutral bar is on the right closer to the top than Ground Buss. Black (or Red) goes to top 2 Lugs. White to the Neutral buss. green or bare goes to Ground buss (the lowest in your picture). You may wish to "chassis ground" this panel by running a #10 or so wire to metal within the Van, if that is what this is going in.
 
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15 amps per circuit, 30 amps total,
30 Amps × 110 Volts = 3,300 Watts from inverter.
That's a pretty big inverter!

10 Ga wire minimum from inverter to box. (10/3)
I would use a 10 Ga to jump from one breaker buss to the other.
Black (Hot) into breaker busses, and you will have to manually jump from one to the other.

White wire into upper/right buss.
Bare copper into lower/right buss.

You will find that Neutral/White and Bare Copper busses are connected, so White/Neutral & Bare/Ground can go on either ends of that buss...
The Black/Hot is the dangerous one.

From breaker to outlet, 15 Amps @ 110 Volts.
15 x 110 = 1,650 Watts.
15 Amps, 14 Ga wire minimum, with a 15 Amp breaker, I would use 12/2
Outlet black wires go into the breakers themselves.

At the outlets,
Black/Hot to GOLD screw on side, doesn't matter which one.
White/Neutral to SILVER screw on the other side, don't matter which one.
Bare/Ground to metal frame screw, usually stained/painted green.
 
@JeepHammer sorry if I wasn’t clear. This box will be for the shore power in from an external RV plug. Not from inverter.
The inverter I’m running to another single separate dedicated outlet for only inverter use when needed.
I was trying to learn if a jumper would be acceptable between upper hot lugs. So a 10g jumper will work?
This box will be used basicly as a sub panel in the trailer from house, genny or RV pedestals.

I have read in my search, since it will be basically a sub panel, the neutral and ground should be separate and not bonded.
So black to hot, white to neutral and green or bare wire to ground?

I bought the optional ground buss pictured on the left to connect the three ground wires (1in and 2out.)

Here is a picture with 10g jumper connected and ground buss on left.
Does this sound correct? Thanks for your advise ?

image.jpg
 
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Correct. DO NOT bond neutral (white) and ground (green) together as usually done in a house. Why? If hot and neutral are reversed, as occurs sometimes in a campground, or extension cord, the body/chassis of the RV becomes "hot" and lethal! This is NOT wired like a house. The reason it is OK to jumper the top of the breakers is that this box is normally used for 230 VAC input with one side each furnishing 115 VAC. As your feed is 115 vac only, they must be jumped. I actually put in an additional box with a single 30 AMP breaker as a main breaker, but I have more branch circuits than you. This is safe and inexpensive. I also keep my inverter separate as you have indicated.
 
What Outback said, and for reason he stated.
You never know what 'Bubba' put the wiring in oddball places, but a plug in tester (about $5) will tell you quick if someone screwed up.

How long is your extension cord? Longer cords require larger conductor, but a 10 Ga cord should do fine at under 25 feet.

Same rules, the colored wire, red or black (you never know which an extension cord is going to have) is the 'Hot',
White is always Neutral, Green or bare is always 'Ground'.

With those lugs, I would use solder and 'Tin' stranded wire before I plugged it in and screwed it down.
There is a lot of open gap room in those terminals, the screws were intended for solid or large strands, not fine extension cord strands.

The Jumper Looks good, you should see just a nib sticking out the other side, Just like you have.
 
Great idea on the outside extension cord size ? I’ve got a 25‘ 30a 10g RV extension cord that I’ll use for plugging in shore power or the genny to the trailer when it’s used. I’m also using a short piece of that same cord for connection between the box and the RV power connection plug. And your suggestion on tinning the wires before inserting into the lugs makes good sense. I’m using 14g romex for power out to the outlets and from the inverter to its dedicated outlet.
Thanks for all the wisdom here on AC connections I’m a newbie on AC wiring but asking many questions and learning so it’s done safely and right. ?
Got the all solar education and gear setup I required from Will’s original first and on this latest forum. And once the AC wiring is complete I can move onto finishing the cabinets so it’s all tucked away cleanly. This cargo trailer project has been done bit by bit (1year) from empty hollow trailer to camper but it’ll be well used. ?
 
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