Safe Enclosure recommendations?

[OM617YOTA]

I like that. Neatly sidesteps the "anchored to ground" side of things. It's not anchored to the ground, you can move it if you want! Have a fork lift I can borrow from work to move them too, that's a really good idea and bears further research.

Current plan is to build a 4x4x8 enclosed trailer, put the panels on the top, and batteries/components inside. That'll still leave plenty of room inside to stack sand bags or whatever else. I can also hitch the trailer to my truck, which I very seldom drive. That's a 7k lb anchor too.

 

[RichT]

This is why there is such a need for a battery kit like the Seplos Mason, but without the cells. If they made a kit like that which fit 16 280ah cells, they would make a killing selling them to folks like myself who have the cells, but want a sturdy way to mount and stack the banks.
I bought 4 135ah kits with the cells, but would love a 16s 280ah setup the same way without cells. Its kinda dangerous with all of us coming up with ways to hold the packs we build, especially if inside a house. The toolbox method is nice, (mine are also in a toolbox) but a built for purpose solution is needed in the market.

How did you fit the inside of the truck box and photos. I have bought a box recently. looking for ideas for the placement of the BMS.

 

[Sanwizard]

How did you fit the inside of the truck box and photos. I have bought a box recently. looking for ideas for the placement of the BMS.View attachment 90743

I configure them like the diagram shown, with the main positive and negatives of each 16 cell bank facing each other in the center. The positives go to the main switches, which also have a parallel resister and momentary switch for pre-charge. The negatives go through a shunt to display battery state of charge on the front of the box. One JK 200amp 2 amp active balance BMS for each bank of 16S.
Total 32 x 280ah cells in the toolbox. I use poly kitchen cutting boards on top to protect the terminals and a place to put the shunts and BMS's
28KW in a toolbox!
This box has been perfect for me, but its not expandable, and VERY heavy. (I put two harbor freight furniture dollies underneath the toolbox so I can roll it if needed). And since Seplos has actually developed the empty kit for 280ah cells, I ordered two of those kits to replace this setup. It was a GREAT platform to learn all this stuff though, and lots of fun building it. If I was to do it all over, I would have installed it on its side so the top drops down in front instead of opening on top. That way you can stack toolboxes for expansion( harder to work on the terminals though).

 

[RichT]

Was not expecting such a speedy reply. Thank you for the great detail, very much appreciated.

 

[Batvette]

How about a flammable liquids cabinet filled with sand?

 

[eXodus]

How about a flammable liquids cabinet filled with sand?

aside of those being expensive?
Pretty brilliant idea. Those are made to contain a fire. We got those at work and store lots of burning stuff in them.

 

[KCBlues]

I have a question that this thread's topic triggered...

I keep seeing a lot of installation pics in RVs with components mounted on both carpet-covered and uncovered plywood and keep wondering if they missed this in the manual, or if I just take things to literally/seriously?

"Mount the solar charger vertically on a non-flammable substrate, with the electrical terminals facing downwards."

After having lost almost everything I owned when my parent's house burned while I was in college, I admit I take fire prevention very seriously...

I am planning on using Hardi Board between the pass-through wall and my components since is is rated fire resistant and the wall can use some reinforcement.

Any pros or cons in doing so?

 

[Sanwizard]

I have a question that this thread's topic triggered...

I keep seeing a lot of installation pics in RVs with components mounted on both carpet-covered and uncovered plywood and keep wondering if they missed this in the manual, or if I just take things to literally/seriously?

"Mount the solar charger vertically on a non-flammable substrate, with the electrical terminals facing downwards."

After having lost almost everything I owned when my parent's house burned while I was in college, I admit I take fire prevention very seriously...

I am planning on using Hardi Board between the pass-through wall and my components since is is rated fire resistant and the wall can use some reinforcement.

Any pros or cons in doing so?

Cement board is always a plus over wood or flamable material.

 

[rhino]

If you need any insulation in addition to the cement board use mineral wool "boards" (survives 2000F+ temps). I see way too many people use highly flammable foam boards for insulation. FYI, I also placed my charge controllers on cement board.

 

[oregonsun]

I bought a 36x24 steel service cart from harbor freight $80 to hold my 10k of ameretime batteries and keep it portable on wheels, my intention was to add fireproofing sides to it like out of hardy board or drywall but haven't gotten around to it yet. Maybe I should stop putting off that project.
Any tips to make this easy welcome.

 

[OpenNRG]

 

[Sanwizard]

Thats a nice water resistant setup for just the batteries also, if the inverter can be mounted outdoors. Thats what I like about rack mount LiFePo4 enclosures, no fans in the rear to worry about. They would rather be warm than cold.

 

[raurre]

This is an old control cabinet I sourced from my work. 1/8 steel. Cement board behind the Inverters. I have 1/8 sheet wood inside to help with insulation when I have work on the batteries.

 

[Sanwizard]

This is an old control cabinet I sourced from my work. 1/8 steel. Cement board behind the Inverters. I have 1/8 sheet wood inside to help with insulation when I have work on the batteries. View attachment 94648

Very nice setup! That would most likely pass inspection. Similar work to Dan Fitzpatrick on Youtube.

 

[raurre]

This is what my cabinet started out like. This is one I used for the build I did for my buddy. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/m...e-304ah-lifepo4-battery-14-kw-pv-array.32343/ This is the complete build link.

 

[740GLE]

Where did you source your BMS sensing terminals?

 

[OM617YOTA]

This is an old control cabinet I sourced from my work. 1/8 steel. Cement board behind the Inverters. I have 1/8 sheet wood inside to help with insulation when I have work on the batteries. View attachment 94648

That is beautiful! Well done!

 

[jwelter99]

I have a question that this thread's topic triggered...

I keep seeing a lot of installation pics in RVs with components mounted on both carpet-covered and uncovered plywood and keep wondering if they missed this in the manual, or if I just take things to literally/seriously?

"Mount the solar charger vertically on a non-flammable substrate, with the electrical terminals facing downwards."

After having lost almost everything I owned when my parent's house burned while I was in college, I admit I take fire prevention very seriously...

I am planning on using Hardi Board between the pass-through wall and my components since is is rated fire resistant and the wall can use some reinforcement.

Any pros or cons in doing so?

Cement board is good; just make sure to wear proper gear when cutting and working with it. It's not great for you. Many don't know this.

The other option is fireproof paint over wood which I see used a lot in boats; and probably a good choice for the RV installs.

Certainly never over carpet - that's asking for Zeus to toss a few lightening bolts at you.

 

[jberger]

I doubt hardiboard would hold up, long term (20 years), in an RV application without being sandwiched into an assembly. There is a heck of a lot of vibration going on when you are heading down the road.
I left the automotive carpet in the bay where I located the battery rack in our RV. It's a good vibration damper and with the batteries in a metal rack enclosure, I didn't think it was a safety risk. I could not bring myself to build a plywood style enclosure for raw cells, so I spend the extra money for the server rack style metal cased unit.

 

[OffGridForGood]

This is why there is such a need for a battery kit like the Seplos Mason, but without the cells. If they made a kit like that which fit 16 280ah cells, they would make a killing selling them to folks like myself who have the cells, but want a sturdy way to mount and stack the banks.
I bought 4 135ah kits with the cells, but would love a 16s 280ah setup the same way without cells. Its kinda dangerous with all of us coming up with ways to hold the packs we build, especially if inside a house. The toolbox method is nice, (mine are also in a toolbox) but a built for purpose solution is needed in the market.

And Later, in July 2022, we see on Seplos Mason a 280 Ahr kit without cells offered! I have asked for a quote.

 

[Sanwizard]

And Later, in July 2022, we see on Seplos Mason a 280 Ahr kit without cells offered! I have asked for a quote.

Absolutely! I bought three of them!

 

[OffGridForGood]

Absolutely! I bought three of them!

Oh, Can you say how much these kits cost? about?

 

[Sanwizard]

Oh, Can you say how much these kits cost? about?

I paid $235 per kit without the BMS(already had two Selpos 200amp BMS's, and $450 per kit with a 200amp BMS included. Shipping was a bit over $400. The end result though is a rack mountable or stackable 14.2KW battery for around $1850 all in(including the 280ah cells)! That is an awesome value in my opinion. They are very heavy though.

 

[Sanwizard]

I paid $235 per kit without the BMS(already had two Selpos 200amp BMS's, and $450 per kit with a 200amp BMS included. Shipping was a bit over $400. The end result though is a rack mountable or stackable 14.2KW battery for around $1850 all in(including the 280ah cells)! That is an awesome value in my opinion. They are very heavy though.

Be advised that I was one of the first to buy the 280ah EVE kits, so the price I paid may be different now. They are worth the money though. Their BMS's are also one of the best I have found so far. The ability to connect them together and load share is pretty cool. (Although I have yet to test all seven of mine together).

 

[HRTKD]

I doubt hardiboard would hold up, long term (20 years), in an RV application without being sandwiched into an assembly. There is a heck of a lot of vibration going on when you are heading down the road.
I left the automotive carpet in the bay where I located the battery rack in our RV. It's a good vibration damper and with the batteries in a metal rack enclosure, I didn't think it was a safety risk. I could not bring myself to build a plywood style enclosure for raw cells, so I spend the extra money for the server rack style metal cased unit.

I laminated 1/4" plywood to the Hardie Backerboard. That gave the cement board a lot more strength than it had on its own. This is in a bumper pull toy hauler that sees plenty of rough roads. I'm using the cement board only for a lid, not sides.