I am talking about testing without power applied and the unit is not connected to anything, it is just Ohm test, which people who knows how to perform resistance test should know that there will be no power applied to the device during test, period! You do know that, right?
This ^^^ .
Got it. There is a seperate chassis ground for that specific purpose. I'll learn more if it's possible for the pcb to migrate to possibly touching the case. From what I have seen I doubt it but we definitely want to make sure. There are a lot of these models out there, both in the US and EU markets, and I've never heard of this happening under normal operations (or at all). At the end of the day these are just computers for electricity, and I know I have a huge GPU that hasn't sagged after 8 years of use....not to say it's not possible - just an observation of a similar situation.Yes, case needs to be grounded.
For my Sunny Island, there is a "PE" terminal on the PCB, that grounding conductor is fastened to.
The construction of the inverter takes care of connecting that net to enclosure. I don't have to run a separate wire to the enclosure.
The pictures posted here, I think of the GroWatt, have a grounding screw removed but I'm not clear from the board markings that is the neutral/ground bond, or the case/ground bond. Case grounding is normally tested for several 10 seconds with 10A AC, looking for < 0.1 ohms (or similar figures, I don't remember exactly). This would confirm a solid connection.
Isolating Neutral/Ground at the inverter is probably the thing to do when Neutral/Ground bond occurs at the utility entrance. And then very low voltage between them at he inverter, so not concerned about creepage/clearance. If "Neutral" becomes "Line2" in a split-phase configuration, then it has to withstand line voltage across it so those dimensions do matter.
View attachment 80175
Yes, when powered.
With all sources of power disconnected, a little experiment could check if isolation between "Neutral" (which is now repurposed as "Line2" and chassis can make contact. Ohm meter and pushing on PCB.
If you ship me one I'd be happy to try it out. And other things too. I'm a "Qualified Electrical Worker"
Well, the EU one has that ground installed for reason and not supposed to be removed, that is why no problem with EU unit using in the EU which the unit is designed for.
This sounds arse backwards. In any industrial or home setup, the utility ground is a guaranteed fact.
Just removing the screw is not enough. The link needs to be removed too. That will then give the proper clearance. There is a reason the circuit board is laid out this way.
Just to be 100% crystal clear, the pictures I posted and refer to are a knock off unit from Vevor that has failed, not a Growatt or MPP unit.
I'll take a look at this hopefully today, it's been a crazy week as you can imagine. Will post when I get results.
Glad you folks are sorting this out and are publicly engaging in active solutions. I have a Growatt 12kw 250 we acquired from u back last Nov. Multiple personal situations have stalled the install, but hope to have it installed by spring. Your efforts here are inspiring confidence in support if we need it along the way.
Glad to hear!
Truer words have never been spoken, I am thinking I should have gone with the sol-Ark
Life was better for before this topic on the forum, too many people throwing wrench’s and don’t even have the product.
