Sanity Check - EG4 6000XP and RV setup

[rvtoaloha]

BLUF: While it will not be the most efficient due to conversion losses, or the cheapest route, but will the proposed setup work how I think it will?

We are 2 full-time remote workers and are attempting to go off-grid as much as possible this year in our 36' travel trailer. We have (13) 10-14 day outings planned so far between Memorial Day and New Years. I have tracked our power usage, and with only using A/C units about 2 hours a day to take the edge off, we average right around 10kWh a day. We will be reducing that when we go out, but it is a decent benchmark for now. Our biggest battle is with weight, as we have shed as much as we can and only have around 500# that we can add before we go over our GVWR. We will also be upgrading to a 5th wheel in the fall of 2027, so trying to do enough to get by now but also be able to bring the key components with us when we switch.

With that said, our plan is to use the 6000XP (53#) with (4) 51.2V 100Ah batteries in parallel (330#) and (18) 100W CIGS Flexible panels (I know... but they total 82#) + any wire weight (+/- 35#) to bring us in right about 500# total. The panels will be wired with (9) in series, and one leg into each PV input. I know we will always be in a solar deficit because of the amount of panels we will have vs. the battery bank & usage, but I am hoping to be able to run the 5000W generator for a few hours every 3-4 days to top things off. For this, I was going to wire a female 30A outlet to the Generator Input and install it through the back RV wall. We will be having some full hook-ups between our boondocking adventures, so for ease of install, I was thinking of wiring female 50A outlet through the back wall of the RV, then can plug the standard shore power cord in there when off grid, or into a pedestal when at a campground. While not ideal, not sure of the logistics of wiring the inverter straight into the breaker panel (at this point). Is something I am still digging into, but I have to pull the trigger on ordering these items in the next 2 weeks or so....

Thoughts, inputs, and warnings would be greatly appreciated!

 

[rvtoaloha]

Clarification: I swapped the factory AGM battery for a 12.8V 280Ah battery as my "house" battery. I am currently getting about 3 days of runtime off it (Fridge, lights, charging ports, fans, thermostat). I am charging it up, turning off the WFCO converter, then recharging it when it gets down to about 20%. Seems like if I don't turn it off, the converter runs nearly non-stop to keep "topping off" the battery until the BMS kicks in and shuts down charging.

 

[HRTKD]

I'm not a fan of the CIGS. I realize you're trying to manage weight but I would rather use residential panels. Maybe upgrade the axles and springs to give you the ability to carry more weight?

I try to travel with as little water as possible in the tank so I don't run so close to the GVWR limit.

If you're going to run the A/C off the batteries, how are you going to manage the heat in the batteries as well as the heat generated by the inverter?

 

[chrisski]

As a person Who runs a 15k BTU that pulls 1700 watts from my batteries when it runs, I think you need to relook at your plan.


I have 1650 watts of panels on my roof and I have not seen more than 1100 watts peak from them, so I expect you will be running your AC at a bet loss, even with 1800 watts of panels.

I also have 900 watts of portable panels that I put in the back seat of my pickup, takes up most of the back seat, but that gives me additional power to actually run the AC and charge slightly.

Will said in one of his videos to full up your roof and put as many on the ground to run an AC, and that is not far from the truth.

With your plan to run the generator three or four hours a day, it may work, but you may have to run it through the night if you use AC.

I also think you are underestimating the weights. A single panel taped to the roof can take 16’ of tape.

For better axles, it may improve the trailer to better weights but the GVWR sticker still says what it came from the factory.

 

[rvtoaloha]

I'm not a fan of the CIGS. I realize you're trying to manage weight but I would rather use residential panels. Maybe upgrade the axles and springs to give you the ability to carry more weight?

I try to travel with as little water as possible in the tank so I don't run so close to the GVWR limit.

If you're going to run the A/C off the batteries, how are you going to manage the heat in the batteries as well as the heat generated by the inverter?

We will be traveling with no water until we get right near our destinations, and then adding in the 40 gallons of fresh. Our GVWR is 10,500# and we just scaled last weekend (dry) at 9,990#. So once we add solar we’ll be about at max then our water will be putting us over by about 300#. Not enough to worry me, but don’t wanna go too much more than that. We just had the axels warranty replaced about 1500 miles ago, so I’ll see how these hold up and maybe upgrade if necessary. I’ve already asked the fiancé to get rid of over 2/3 of her clothes & shoes to help shed weight… can’t ask her to give away much more!

I know a lot of people aren’t a fan of the CIGS, and they are less efficient in full sun, but their performance in shade/partial shade is what got me leaning that way. Having no idea what type of site we may end up in, just trying to hedge my bets. No matter what I will always be in a PV deficit, just trying not to run the genny several hours every day.

Install of all components was going to be in a closet that has an outside access door into it. Was thinking about installing a fan into the door, but haven’t quite got there since I wasn’t sure if this setup would work.

 

[rvtoaloha]

As a person Who runs a 15k BTU that pulls 1700 watts from my batteries when it runs, I think you need to relook at your plan.


I have 1650 watts of panels on my roof and I have not seen more than 1100 watts peak from them, so I expect you will be running your AC at a bet loss, even with 1800 watts of panels.

I also have 900 watts of portable panels that I put in the back seat of my pickup, takes up most of the back seat, but that gives me additional power to actually run the AC and charge slightly.

Will said in one of his videos to full up your roof and put as many on the ground to run an AC, and that is not far from the truth.

With your plan to run the generator three or four hours a day, it may work, but you may have to run it through the night if you use AC.

I also think you are underestimating the weights. A single panel taped to the roof can take 16’ of tape.

For better axles, it may improve the trailer to better weights but the GVWR sticker still says what it came from the factory.

I appreciate the input. I know I’m going to be in a PV deficit each day, but hopefully being in the mountains of CO most of the summer, I won’t need A/C much. What type of panels do you have?

I was wondering about the weight of the panels, but was just going by what they had listed in the website… hoping it’s not TOO far off!

I know the system plan is not ideal, but I’m trying to make the best out of my resources available and knowing this is a “trial run” to ensure we like boondocking life. With that in mind… in your opinion, would it work?

 

[chrisski]

If you are going to be at a cool place not needing AC, you may just consider turning on the generator when it’s hot and just getting a smaller build.

In my signature block I’ve got my Rv build in part 1 and part 2.

I was wondering about the weight of the panels, but was just going by what they had listed in the website… hoping it’s not TOO far off!

I don’t think the weights listed are far off.

I think the other stuff will add up.

I think you mentioned 4 x 100 ah batteries at 330 lbs. that seems right, but then there needs to be some kind of rack to secure it to the Rv.

I acquired a plethora of tools for the solar building. A drill to go through the roof, crimpers, heat gun for heat shrink. The crimper for the thick cables is fairly heavy.

Lumber to mount the electronic components to.

 

[brainbone]

You could change out your A/C units to more efficient ones like the Gree/Tosot 15k EER 8 ones or the Turbro 13.5k EER 11. (Guessing your current ones are probably EER 4 to 6.) May help with the solar deficit, though you'll be ~$3k lighter in your William bender. Or could just change out one of them and try to only use that one on battery.

 

[dopeassjackson]

Traveling 100% of the time and only being 500lbs under your max weight is a recipe for flat tires and bent axles.

 

[rvtoaloha]

Traveling 100% of the time and only being 500lbs under your max weight is a recipe for flat tires and bent axles.

I won’t disagree with you there, and I have experienced both within the last year due to being overweight previously. But this is what I have to work with for the next 18 months so trying to make the best of it. Currently only traveling with 4200# on each of my 5100# axels, so I have a little breathing room there at least.

 

[rvtoaloha]

You could change out your A/C units to more efficient ones like the Gree/Tosot 15k EER 8 ones or the Turbro 13.5k EER 11. (Guessing your current ones are probably EER 4 to 6.) May help with the solar deficit, though you'll be ~$3k lighter in your William bender. Or could just change out one of them and try to only use that one on battery.

Had never heard of EER before but after looking it up, it looks like my GE unit is at 9.8 EER. 15k BTU and 1530 watts. Now that I’ve installed a KoolRV diverter in it, it does a much better job of cooling down the whole rig. Thanks for the reply, I enjoy learning new data points like that.

Overall, I’m not too worried about running the A/C much… I’ll be in cooler climates for most of the summer + I’ll have a 5000 watt genny with me at all times if need be. My biggest concern is with my understanding of the functionality & limitations of the 6000XP in setting up plug & play system for my 50A rv plug, and still maintaining output/charging capability when running the generator (as needed).

 

[rvtoaloha]

If you are going to be at a cool place not needing AC, you may just consider turning on the generator when it’s hot and just getting a smaller build.

In my signature block I’ve got my Rv build in part 1 and part 2.

I don’t think the weights listed are far off.

I think the other stuff will add up.

I think you mentioned 4 x 100 ah batteries at 330 lbs. that seems right, but then there needs to be some kind of rack to secure it to the Rv.

I acquired a plethora of tools for the solar building. A drill to go through the roof, crimpers, heat gun for heat shrink. The crimper for the thick cables is fairly heavy.

Lumber to mount the electronic components

Do you have any recommendations (or warnings) about brands of solar tools. Have looked around a little bit, but don’t personally know anyone who has used them to get an opinion.

 

[dopeassjackson]

Honestly if your going to be changing out your whole RV in 18 months I wouldnt do a thing. Just plug in or run a generator. Your just decreasing the value of a depreciating asset.

 

[mmmmmdonuts]

I would look at my build. I did something very similar to what you're looking at doing.

You do have to have a transformer or something to plug a 120V feed into the EG6000XP for your generator. The 6000XP needs a split phase 240.

I also highly recommend a battery with communications. In practice it works without it but but I had some issues where it would discharge too far or not enough, based on my shunt readings. I upgraded my this year to that.

https://diysolarforum.com/threads/rv-build.87900/#post-1226686