I have given a battery box to someone a few months ago had no problems still start of month it stopped working. When I opened the case the fuse holder was burnt the smell of burnt plastic was shocking. I have replaced the fuse with a new cables fuse/holder the battery is not coming on. I made me start thinking the position of the fuse. It's between the BMS and the cells. Should the fuse not be positioned before the power from inverter hits the BMS. I'm guessing the BMS is dead now so will replace. When I look at the eel kits they place the fuse at the battery terminal before BMS.
Seplos mason box. Fuse burnt what is it protecting.
- Thread starter ddonq1412
- Start date
Lt.Dan
Solar Wizard
Fuse between the BMS and loads is very standard. If it melted plastic, i'm willing to bet there was a loose connecting that just built up heat.
Replacing the fuse and holder together was very smart. Just ensure there is nothing between the fuse and busbar, such as a washer or something.
Why the BMS is dead is very confusing as well. Is there no indication of power at all?
Replacing the fuse and holder together was very smart. Just ensure there is nothing between the fuse and busbar, such as a washer or something.
Why the BMS is dead is very confusing as well. Is there no indication of power at all?
Lt.Dan
Solar Wizard
There might be a total pack voltage of 52v, but if one cell is below the 2.5v threshold, the BMS might not turn on as a safety. Check the individual cells.
If that is good, then make sure you are attempting to power it on like the manual states. Some have a series of steps to get them to turn on correctly.
If that is good, then make sure you are attempting to power it on like the manual states. Some have a series of steps to get them to turn on correctly.
Lt.Dan
Solar Wizard
I would wager the BMS is dead as well. I personally have killed 3x Seplos BMS's for various reasons... One died for no rhyme or reason.
HughF
New Member
They’ve got the new Jk in stock, I’d probably fit one of those if I were you.
houseofancients
Solar Wizard
It will not fit in the case, besides the jk is by far not mature enough, besides being overpriced, software so far seems a mess
@ddonq1412
The fuse wasn't connected correct.
Should be between the terminal and BMS on positive.
This is a 400a anl fuse, so it looks there might have been a serious short, I'd try and help your friend to figure out what happened.
Looks like the cells survived, but BMS took the blast.
Last edited:
MisterB1959
Solar Enthusiast
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Which Seplos case is it ?
HughF
New Member
If you order a v3 from fogstar, make sure they ship a new set of bus bars - they’re all different between the v2 and v3.
V3 doesn’t route the +Ve through the bms, instead it has all the shunts on the -ve bus. +Ve comes straight off the pack, through the fuse, off to the output terminal.
V3 doesn’t route the +Ve through the bms, instead it has all the shunts on the -ve bus. +Ve comes straight off the pack, through the fuse, off to the output terminal.
Just wondering what an “anal fuse” is...
Neil H
New Member
The V3 wont fit the front panel correctly
houseofancients
Solar Wizard
A spell checker going wild ..
Was supposed to be ANL fuse ( corrected it)
Lol...
MisterB1959
Solar Enthusiast
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i mentioned this on another thread, but in case you missed it, the V3 BMS doesnt communicate with the V2 BMS - so if youre adding an additional battery (as i am) make sure that you match the BMS's
This might be relevant: I got two completed Mason 280s and both had one fuse bolt improperly torqued. The lock nut was not compressed at all on both units. Numerous bus bar screws on the BMS board were also fairly loose. I double checked all of the cell terminal to bus bar connections and those were all good.
If you buy a completed Mason make sure you disassemble and verify assembly and torque!
If you buy a completed Mason make sure you disassemble and verify assembly and torque!
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Quattrohead
Emperor Of Solar
Complete lack of QA right there.
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