diy solar

diy solar

Shed/office flooring

Plastic on the ground is best you can do

Foam board is rated at 150psf or 250psf

“Window and door” spray foam is an excellent adhesive. Run beads of spray foam 12” o.c. and put 2” foam board over osb, use laminate or vinyl plank over foam.

You are already compromised (mold likely) and only R14 ceilings so for a limited lifespan floor system that would work
 
Another way to look at this. Just stop. Fix the foundation properly.

A shed, sitting on 4x4 beams is not adequate for anything.

The shed can be lifted at each side, assuming it is structurally sound, and blocks or concrete can be places under the corners and at appropriately spaced intervals to carry the load. What type of support depends on soil conditions. And it is very dangerous work to address this while lifting the shed. If you are not comfortable and experienced with this type of work, you should hire someone.

Also, moisture control is essential. Getting some blocks under the shed may help address this by giving airflow.

When the structure is resting on flat, stable surfaces, it should perform better. And it may address the out of level issues you are experiencing.

Sorry if this is not what you want to hear. And be careful.
 
Another way to look at this. Just stop. Fix the foundation properly.

A shed, sitting on 4x4 beams is not adequate for anything.

The shed can be lifted at each side, assuming it is structurally sound, and blocks or concrete can be places under the corners and at appropriately spaced intervals to carry the load. What type of support depends on soil conditions. And it is very dangerous work to address this while lifting the shed. If you are not comfortable and experienced with this type of work, you should hire someone.

Also, moisture control is essential. Getting some blocks under the shed may help address this by giving airflow.

When the structure is resting on flat, stable surfaces, it should perform better. And it may address the out of level issues you are experiencing.

Sorry if this is not what you want to hear. And be careful.
Yup.

A heavy duty automotive floor jack or a few of them often dies the trick.

I would use that Home Depot "life proof" flooring. It's all plastic with no wood in it to go bad.
 
Do you have any kind of budget for this? Why is ripping up the floor not an option? Or, I should say, why do you want to proceed without fixing serious problems that are going to plague you forever?
 
Why is ripping up the floor not an option?
If it's built like any of the enclosed sheds I've ever dealt with, the flooring was put down THEN the walls were attached. Since the flooring goes under the wall studs, it doesn't come up without taking the roof off and the walls apart.
 
I’m speculating based on common construction techniques.

Long treated lumber skids may also be a good option. There is a right way to do this, and many ways to do it wrong. I can provide more detail if you are interested.
 
Rednecktek: I realize that. I've built a lot of homes in my time. After reading the first comments, which centered around jacking up the structure, or actually trying to help him cobble something in, I thought it might be easier for the OP to set his blade at the depth of the flooring, and cut all the way around the perimeter. The OP doesn't seem to want to fix it, but that floor is a terrible material to have in a spot like that. It is going to be a haven for mold.

BlueDog225 is on the right track...lumber skids. Get a bobcat with long forks, and pick it up and put it on skids. Level the skids out, if the shed can even take the stress of jacking it up. Floor joists might be 2x4'
 
There is no substitute for proper building practice .
I would Jack it level , screw 3/4 “ ply wood on the floor then sheet vinyl .
Life proof floor is nice but it needs to be in a conditioned space and it won’t lock if the floor is not flat,
I think the spec is 1/4” on 10 feet and it dosent sound like you are close to that
 
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