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Shipping Container Kitchen Mod

Hi Everyone!
Thanks for bearing with me. Had some unexpected life moments happen. I'm back to the build.
I have changed solar panels and want to make sure I have everything correct before I make the move. I have most of the parts now, including the LifePO4 batteries. This should be completed this week.
Let me know your thoughts on the attached diagram. If everything is good I'll get to connecting the wires.
Thanks you all!!
 

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Hi Everyone!
Thanks for bearing with me. Had some unexpected life moments happen. I'm back to the build.
I have changed solar panels and want to make sure I have everything correct before I make the move. I have most of the parts now, including the LifePO4 batteries. This should be completed this week.
Let me know your thoughts on the attached diagram. If everything is good I'll get to connecting the wires.
Thanks you all!!
Your battery bank wiring should follow a standard approach... If you connect to the negative post of the bottom battery instead of using both top battery posts, you would have "diagonally" connected wiring (see Victron Wiring Unlimited).
 

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Your battery bank wiring should follow a standard approach... If you connect to the negative post of the bottom battery instead of using both top battery posts, you would have "diagonally" connected wiring (see Victron Wiring Unlimited).
Good Point. I had planned or runing 1/4in thick bus bar and running 4/0 welding wire from batteries to bus bar and then equal length positive and negative 4/0 from bus bars to the inverter.

Question... Do I need fuses between each solar panel?
 

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Updated Diagram
I had to wait for the copper flat bar to arrive. I had 2 custom made at 1/4 inch thick and 5.5 feet long, one for negative terminals and one for positive. I also installed a 5.5 foot grounding rod that has 5 feet of it buried. The diagram doesn't show that I'll be grounding the inverter and the battery cases to it, but I will be.
I've also updated the diagram with the wire sizes as per the manufacturers recommendations...
The panels are combined should have a max capacity of 488.4 V which is over the inverters 450 max, but these aren't new panels and I'm sure they aren't going to ever hit 100% of their ability... is this wrong thinking? I'll check with a meter before I connect and I will remove a panel from the system if needed.
As far as fuses between panels, the panels are rated from a maximum series amperage of 15 amps and with each only being 8.64A and connecting them in series, I should not need any fuses because I'll only be at half the amps the panels are rated for. Is this correct?
 

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Please don't do that, voltage goes up quick once the temperature starts going down. Stick with 20% safety space on that max VoC limit. Those MaxPV Input numbers are Super Hard Numbers!
I was afraid of someone saying that... so i will remove one panel to bring it under the max. I will probably add a few more panels and route them through another charge controller.
 
I was afraid of someone saying that... so i will remove one panel to bring it under the max. I will probably add a few more panels and route them through another charge controller.
Either that or you can drop the working voltage in half for the same wattage if you can get an even number of panels, like 12, and go with a split array like a 6s2p. That's half the voltage since you've got half the panels in series and twice the amperage since you're in a pair now. Same wattage, less magic smoke. :)
 
Either that or you can drop the working voltage in half for the same wattage if you can get an even number of panels, like 12, and go with a split array like a 6s2p. That's half the voltage since you've got half the panels in series and twice the amperage since you're in a pair now. Same wattage, less magic smoke. :)
So... Something like this new diagram? And I still wouldn't need fuses at the parallel point?
Thank you for the pointers. Your help is truly appreciated.
 

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So... Something like this new diagram? And I still wouldn't need fuses at the parallel point?
Thank you for the pointers. Your help is truly appreciated.
Your VoC would be 6 panels or 267v for each string. The volts stay the same in parallel.
Unless you've got different panels than the specs in your OP diagram.

Nope, no need for fuses at that point.
 
Your VoC would be 6 panels or 267v for each string. The volts stay the same in parallel.
Unless you've got different panels than the specs in your OP diagram.

Nope, no need for fuses at that point.
I don't know how I didn't double check my math... not even sure where 333 came from, thanks for catching it.

A local company has ordered my class T fuse. Not sure they understood exactly what I needed... I asked for a 150A Class T Fuse and she asked what voltage. I asked for 600VDC and she repeated "600 volts?" I said, "Yes...DC though; Not AC." to which I got no reply. I hope I get the right ones. I couldnt find them anywhere.
 

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I don't know how I didn't double check my math... not even sure where 333 came from, thanks for catching it.

A local company has ordered my class T fuse. Not sure they understood exactly what I needed... I asked for a 150A Class T Fuse and she asked what voltage. I asked for 600VDC and she repeated "600 volts?" I said, "Yes...DC though; Not AC." to which I got no reply. I hope I get the right ones. I couldnt find them anywhere.

I paid more shipping that I would have ideally, and paid retail prices from expensive brands to get a couple class t fuses recently... I agree it's been painful! I'd be even more nervous about somebody else trying to source them for me.
 
I'm trying to understand why I need a 150a fuse with having a 200a breaker... Couldnt I use JUST the breaker to serve as both the disconnect point and the safety break? What is the benefit of having the fuse in front of the breaker? Using the class T fuse, could I use a DC disconnect (600a) instead of the breaker?
 
ok... Im being told I have this main battery fuse all wrong.
The electric shop suggested a Bussman JJN-150 which is a 150A 160VDC fuse.
This is sufficient, right? Fuses conFUSE me.
 
Don't feel bad, fuses are not only very confusing with all the different types, but nowadays getting the right size, or any, class-t fuse requires a kidney and knowing "a guy".
 
Ok, so since the manufacturer recommends a 200 amp breaker, I went with a 200 amp fuse. I ordered it off amazon and got it yesterday, a day after ordering it. I also got a pair of parallel connectors and made my array a 6s2p.

Everything connected nicely and is officially up and running. All I need to do now is get a long enough com cord to connect the battery bank to the inverter and then configure everything proper. But for now, its running the AC and all my appliances and its still charging the bank. Looks like we are good! Yay team DIY SOLAR! Couldnt have done it without you good people!
 
I'm adding another grounding rod to ground my solar panels too. something I forgot to do.
 
I don't know how I didn't double check my math... not even sure where 333 came from, thanks for catching it.

A local company has ordered my class T fuse. Not sure they understood exactly what I needed... I asked for a 150A Class T Fuse and she asked what voltage. I asked for 600VDC and she repeated "600 volts?" I said, "Yes...DC though; Not AC." to which I got no reply. I hope I get the right ones. I couldnt find them anywhere.
Whatd you design that with lol
 
The advice of others... which didn't make sense to me either. With a little more googling I discovered that I only needed a 150/200A 160VDC. I found that on Amazon with a next day delivery option.
No I’m asking how you drew that picture lol it’s very nice I’d like to do one as well
 
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