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diy solar

ShunBin Battery Packs: 12V/24V 100AH and up ! A Complete RIP-OFF ! AVOID

One thing to note especially, the Shunt provided by Chargery is one of the fairly cheap ones and has no mounting / backing. I'm going to use a Deltec 500A/50mv Shunt instead, which is a far better solid brass unit. Ebay link below but check around with solar suppliers etc.

Ironically, I have the identical already in my E-Panel attached to the Classic-200 but that is connected to the WizBang Jr. interface which is between the FLA bank & LFP pack. One option is to reprogram it for the LFP and run a long lead (6' or so, might not be so good) to also connect to the BMS so it can do it's thing and have a separate shunt for the FLA bank with an independent monitor. But then that kinda messes up when I get more LFP and another Chargery BMS or two with their own relays etc... more pondering to do...

You like to save some money Steve, how many do you need?
 
QUICK NOTE: As of an hour ago, I saw that the ShunBin Packs are NOT AVAILABLE on Amazon.CA did not check Amazon.COM
Will they relist under something new to avoid the reviews & such being attached to the packs ?
Will they just stop selling them ?
Will they reappear with another label ?
Red Flag Alert !

EDIT: Just checked and still listed on Amazon.COM
something is definitely up !
 
Last edited:
Another quick update.
I wanted (needed) the refund, which they finally gave me back $400 CAD / $305 USD +/- for the shortcomings of the cells. They wanted me to remove the Reviews on Amazon CA & COM so I edited them as shown below with photo's removed. The refund at least covers my expenses to get the pack up to snuff before going online. Sadly I could not afford to not take the refund, budget is hurting.
The Edited Review:
The GOOD:
Prompt delivery and well packaged for safe transport. Well made Stainless Case with quality steel. 24V/400AH model weighs in at 70Kg / 156 Lbs, be aware of that. Very strong handles which is essential for a beast of this weight.
Do your research and consider it, DIY'ing a similar pack with Known Good parts will cost you similar and leave no Lingering questions. Review modified to get my partial refund. No Docs or info provided with pack at all.
 
That's about as good as compromise as it was looking like you would get. At least the full info is here.
 
That's about as good as compromise as it was looking like you would get. At least the full info is here.
I figured it that way as well. I just got this email from them as well... Isn't it just delicious...
Hi, thank you for editing the review, but can you change the 5 star rating?
One Star stays !
 
I figured it that way as well. I just got this email from them as well... Isn't it just delicious...
One Star stays !

Good. What they are doing is against Amazon policy. If reported they could lose their ability to sell.
 
I spent quite a bit of time in Hong Kong .... When it was still under British control. One thing you have to learn fast is negotiating. The Chinese are SERIOUS negotiators and have no shame in what they will ask for .... it is just part of the culture.
 
I spent quite a bit of time in Hong Kong .... When it was still under British control. One thing you have to learn fast is negotiating. The Chinese are SERIOUS negotiators and have no shame in what they will ask for .... it is just part of the culture.
You have the experience to know how business in China is not like it is in the West, different rules, different philosophy and if you cannot negotiate on their terms you get pooched and quickly. The concept of "face" in business is also a notion that the West can't wrap their minds around either. My first dealings with Chinese Business people was in the late 80's when PC's started coming in on scale. Boy what a transition in thinking & understanding the new rules and then dealing with Taiwan & Korea were also quite different too... cost me much to learn lessons but I got through it. It's just different but once you know & understand, it can be managed alright.
 
APRIL 25 - 2020 UPDATE
HEADS UP TO ANYONE WHO BOUGHT A SHUNBIN PACK !


I realized that I have not updated this and should...
The pack POST REBUIILD has worked but not as it should. There are 3 weak cells ghosted by paralleling them with good ones, they will have to be replaced. The FINAL REBUILD will be to split this single pack of 16 cells into two clean 8 Cell Series Packs each with a Chargery BMS8T.

A FAULT in one existing cell causes a very high heat situation in that cell, in excess of 40 degrees Celsius while the rest of the cells remain at 18 degrees Celsius. This High Heat situation ONLY Arises during Charging but is severe enough to trip the Safety on the BMS causing it to shutdown the pack. A quick look at the cells does not indicate anything, a deeper look & pack disassembly is required to determine what is really happening there.

At present, I am completing my two 280AH packs and once they are in place & running, I will disassemble the Shunbin Pack in prep to rebuild it, whatever I discover, I will post it in here for future reference.

NOTE: I hadn't realized it was this bad until today when the over temp triggered a shutdown. When I touched the top of the Stainless Steel case, it was too hot to touch ! PING @Delta-V it maybe something to recheck with your Shubin Pack if it is still intact. Anyone who has one of the ShunBin Packs CHECK THE TEMPS when Charging & Discharging, in a residential / non-EV application, these things should NOT heat up, especially to the point of being too hot to touch.
 
Perfect timing. After my mom nuked my 12v inverter, I was forced to hook up the 48v Outback inverter. Wired four 12v in series. It took a few days but when the displayed voltage dropped below 13v, I realized they were not charging. This morning I shutoff the inverter so only charge controller, pv array and batteries connected. Sure enough... batteries will not charge in 48v condition. Just wired them in parallel and they are eating up the 80 amps from controller. How the hell am I going to charge these if I need 48v config?? Stuck in quarantine in Cabo San Lucas, MX. Can't do squat...police will be arresting people for being out.
 
The answer is probably in the name SHUN-BIN. Loosely translated these cells are probably factory rejects , or from the BINs that were deemed unacceptable.

Electronic (battery) manufacturers test their products and separate them into BIN #s. The good bins go into electric cars, street lights, UPS systems, power tools, laptops etc... The "just ok" bins get sold to reputable wholesalers/retailers as B grade. The "bad" bins are shunned (see what I did there :)) into the junk pile. It's china, so even the junk pile finds its way into the market somehow.

For those that already bought these, I hope I'm wrong almost as much as you do.

Thats what i came in to say! Shun that bin!
 
Just get the Calbs. Then you can put it on the bench, check volt match and wire it up.
There is no way i am testing batches of batteries and dealing with far away dealers and all the rest.

Dont get this wrong. Im not a diy user of lithium...... so it has to be legos, not cross your fingers and pray they accept the return and it doesnt cost too much to pass packages back and forth over months.

The prices i see you post for these are attractive, and i almost bought into the blue ones with maybe or maybe no grinder marks, used, abused etc. but i cannot afford to buy twice or wait months to have a battery just work as intended.
 
At least the buyers of these get a diploma in trouble shooting, testing and finger crossing. It really is a hobby technicians game, i do not have time for.
 
I've got problems. One battery, the positive lead got hot as I was wiring them in parallel. It's been two hours and three of the batteries are reading 13.2v. The one that was hot is reading 12.8v. positive end still warm/hot. This is the first week I have used these additional two batteries. First two were wired in parallel and doing great for the past four months.
 
I've got problems. One battery, the positive lead got hot as I was wiring them in parallel. It's been two hours and three of the batteries are reading 13.2v. The one that was hot is reading 12.8v. positive end still warm/hot. This is the first week I have used these additional two batteries. First two were wired in parallel and doing great for the past four months.
This was suposed to be 24V/200AH (reality 175AH as that is what the cells are) and was sitting Stand Alone with no other LFP and NOT using their kraptasic NoName unkown BMS. I had replaced the Aluminium Bus Bars with 110 Copper Stock, ripped out the CCA wire & installed copper welding cable instead internally AND used a Chargery BMS8T. So the only "original" stuff was the casing (nice stainless steel case too) with LED Voltage Readout and the Cells themselves. I do not recall if they had any issues if Paralleled or setup in Series in regards to their Kraptastic BMS.

@kernel WHAT ? I bought the XUBA 280AH's after this shenanigan
Don't echo the "ignored" you should be better than that, certainly should know better.
 
Thanks for the heads-up, Steve. A couple of months ago, I moved my Shunbin battery box to our recreational hunt camp. I setup a 2nd solar power configuration alongside our original lead-acid golf cart battery bank.

A few weeks ago, I checked each cell of the Shunbin battery thanks to your mentioning the ghosting issue earlier. Everything checked out OK. All cells had similar voltages. The battery is still doing OK and working as expected.

My buddy has been going to the camp just about every weekend since Spring Break and hasn't reported any issues with the battery as it's now set as the camp's primary power source. He's actually there now. I'll be going to the camp in the next few weeks or so and I'll check the battery again to include checking for temperature differences.
 
I'm in deep crap. I rewired my batteries in series tonight. All 13.3 volts except the 12.8. No choice with meet in fridge, etc. Voltage has dropped to 12.6. I'm going to have to pull it out. Will try charging three batteries 36v in series which will tell me if bad battery stopped them from charging (FM80 does 36v). Then try Outback at 36v. If that does not work, I'm done for. Camping in Mexico, total police lockdown and no frikken power and don't think I can drive to California during pandemic. Should I open the top and troubleshoot the problem? Messaged SHUN BIN today. Have multimeter, tools but cannot solder.
 
I guess it depends on how comfortable you are with working electrical stuff. Unscrewing and lifting the cover off the top of the box isn't going to hurt anything. You could at least use a multi-meter to check the voltage of each cell. No solder needed at this point.

If I remember right, both Steve and I have posted pictures of the insides of the box. So, you'll have some incites of what to expect.
 
Right now, I have three at 13.1 and the bad dropped to 12.3. Yanking it out in the morning. How do I test each cell for shorting? I will gladly clip wires if I know where the problem is. These are the 500ah ones. I just need power at 48v. Here is reply from SHUN BIN. I assure you 48v in series has not seen a massive drain. I made coffee and in the morning and have 15 300watt panels hooked up. Babied these batteries for four days. Did not even realize they were not charging until day four and seeing 12.9v.

Hello, please receive the attached user's manual. I suggest that you replace 4 pieces of BMS board in series. Because the 48V battery pack in series, BMS can not withstand large current discharge and it will be damaged
Did this solve your problem?
 
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