diy solar

diy solar

Shunt location on travel trailer with batteries in front

For Bus Bars this is where I started:


I decided on the 1000 amp, 8 post 3/8", which ended up being about a foot long. I got two of these, one for the positive and one for the negative.

Lessons learned from that: I needed 7 posts, but not 3/8", so they are available in a variety of sizes and posts. I only needed two 3/8" Posts, the other four could have been #10, and that would have made the busbar much smaller. The ones I got are a little short of 12" and both together take up my 2' wide power board from left to right. I also wish I'd purchase something with a cover.

I originally went with 250 amp audio busbars, four post, but my build outgrew that. I also don't feel good about using an audio busbar for PV. In general audio electronic components do not meet standards I'd like to see such as less expensive ANL audio fuses are not rated to be the main battery fuse like the more expensive Blue Sea ANL fuses that have the same amperage stamped on them.

So, Blue Sea makes quality products that are rated for build like we are doing.

Edit: From my Battery negative terminal, I have a two or three foot run of 4/0 wire attached to my battery shunt, and then there is six inch 4/0 cable to the Battery Negative busbar.
 
I installed my AiLi shunt. It looked like it was working well. I could see the amps going out and the percentage decreasing when I had small loads on it like lights and fantastic fan. I had disconnected the roof solar panel while doing the work, and I plugged it back in after I was finished, then I wanted to see my solar panel's effect on the monitor (wanting to see charging) so I drained battery a little by turning on inverter and plugging in a 1.1A, 140W fan into an outlet, in addition to the fantastic fan and lights. Approx 2 minutes after starting the draining, the AiLi display showed 0% battery. I know this isn't right because it was full just 2 minutes before (I was plugged into shore power). The volts on the display showed 12.85. Thoughts?
 
A full cycle will likely correct it. Most of that type of tester requires a cycle to learn that battery.
 
A full cycle will likely correct it. Most of that type of tester requires a cycle to learn that battery.
After plugging into shore power all night, the battery stopped charging of course because it was barely empty, and the SCC says 1.8% full. I went ahead and reset it to 100%. Not sure what to do now. The manual says you can either tell it when it's at 100%, or discharge the battery and then let it learn what 100% is.
 
A full cycle will likely correct it. Most of that type of tester requires a cycle to learn that battery
Does a full cycle mean let the battery go down to zero? It's lead acid so it's supposed to be discharged to 50% only. Should I turn on some loads and let it completely die then plug into shore power and see what happens?
 
Normally they will relearn over time, calm down take a breath and "use" it. You don't take lfp down to zero either .
 
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