Signature Solar EG4 6.5K Off-Grid Inverter | 6500EX-48

[hipringles]

View attachment 96017
I thought it was UL listed then while editing the video I found out it was TUV listed. Which Ian from watts24/7 told me couple days later is what the lv6548 had all along. Signature solar told me that the screw terminals for mc4 allows it to pass inspection. But Ian said the first lv6548 has passed inspection "hundreds of times". So I don't know what to think right now. Pretty annoyed by it all. Worked hard on those stupid videos and this happens.

Probably need to make sol ark videos and just get people to spend 3X as much so this issue just stops. Why can't the companies get this thing UL listed instead.

This is why I just said "fuck it" and got the sol-ark 15k. Its sitting in my inverter room for an off-grid test right now actually.
It was _way_ more expensive than the 6548s, but:

1. there is no N-->G weirdness. The inverter is not bonded, and if the output is not bonded it will error and shutdown. Its kinda fool-proof
2. Its fully listed no-bullshit and passes the Cali requirements (Even though I don't live there)
3. It has full 200a passthrough, meaning I can just put it between the service mains and the house main, and everything just works. I don't even need a net metering interconnect agreement with battery/no export set.
4. Can AC couple for huge power if wanted
5. Sol-ark is here and answers my emails/phone call same day.
6. 10 year warranty.
7. It's very effecient and idles at 90w
8. Feature and hw rich (pv disconnect built in, circuit breakers built in, solar arc fault built in, etc)

My setup _with_ batteries will never pass inspection as they are DIYd cells, but at the size I am running (>100kwh), swapping them all out for eg4's just isn't worth it. I will put them on the system post inspection and its whatever. They are less dangerous than my 700wh NMC ebike battery charging in the other room.


And yeah, I wish the output was closer to 18 or 20k then I never ever would worry about power loads, but then your DC cables are going to need to carry 200A each, which means huge (probably > 4/0) cables are needed

 

[Zwy]

What section of code are you referring to? This is a 120V output inverter. The ones that have this issue are the 240V inverters where they are European and have a bonded N-G on one of the 240V legs. Then you need to break it to use it in the US.

NEC 250.6

I'm referring to having N-G bond in more than one location if the inverter bonds N-G. If the inverter is used with a grid backup situation which is commonly done with these units, and there is N-G bond at the main service panel, under inverter operation, objectionable current will run on the ground.

If you want to learn more, here are 26 pages of discussion. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/mpp-lv6548-ground-neutral-safety.36241/

They are more............ this post leads you to some more links.

MPP LVX6048 with 2 pole manual transfer switch

Looks like the best answer to my question is to retrofit a transfer switch that switches the neutral as well as both lines but there's still a couple of things I'm not sure I've got my head wrapped around and maybe a couple of options I haven't thought of. I'm planning to use an MPP LVX6048 with...

diysolarforum.com

 

[Solar Guy Richard]

Interesting. I'll be curious to see the outcome of that application. All of the inverters I see listed there are grid-tied "utility-interactive" to send power back to the grid. I thumbed through the list and didn't see any non-grid-tied inverters on the list that I recognized. To my knowledge, the utilities couldn't care less if you install one of these inverters since it doesn't send power back to the grid, it's just another load to them.

Yes, but there isn’t anything explicitly saying that it had to be grid interactive on the application. I guess we will find out - it’s not a super long document or process it seems. It doesn’t hurt to try in my opinion.

 

[hipringles]

Yes, but there isn’t anything explicitly saying that it had to be grid interactive on the application. I guess we will find out - it’s not a super long document or process it seems. It doesn’t hurt to try in my opinion.

I think CEC response time is in the 1/2 year range +

 

[42OhmsPA]

@RichardfromEG4 Please review post 85 and 89 and provide some feedback.

@RichardfromEG4, I see you're actively posting in this thread defending your product. How about answering some questions potential buyers have?

 

[Solar Guy Richard]

@RichardfromEG4, I see you're actively posting in this thread defending your product. How about answering some questions potential buyers have?

I do. I only have so many hours in a day - and I get 10+ PMs every day or 2, not to mention a ton of other work. I am trying my hardest.

 

[Will Prowse]

I think people should stop relying on signature solar and others to figure out these products. I understand that they have a warranty and advertised use case, but if I had to ask them for help every two seconds, my channel would fail overnight. These systems are aimed at the diy market. When I am programming a microcontroller, I'm not asking the manufacturer every question I have. I'll find a way to make it work without asking for help.

And Richard works hard responding to questions. I feel bad for him. I appreciate what he contributes. It would be nice if some of you could say thanks Richard from time to time. And I'm not standing up for signature solar or any other solar equipment distributor. But man, they work a lot.

 

[42OhmsPA]

I do. I only have so many hours in a day - and I get 10+ PMs every day or 2, not to mention a ton of other work. I am trying my hardest.

Appreciate the effort and response, don't forget to take time for you ?.

I'm mainly interested in how it will handle surges and imbalance in a split phase configuration.

 

[Lt.Dan]

I'm sure there is an overwhelming amount of the EXACT same question that is easily answerable in the manual or existing posts in this thread as well.

EDIT: I think there is also a point to where if you are asking "How do I wire this up to my house", you need to just stop there, and hire a professional, because you are obviously not equipped to handle it.

 

[42OhmsPA]

I'm sure there is an overwhelming amount of the EXACT same question that is easily answerable in the manual or existing posts in this thread as well.

EDIT: I think there is also a point to where if you are asking "How do I wire this up to my house", you need to just stop there, and hire a professional, because you are obviously not equipped to handle it.

Agreed 100%.

I read the manual, highlighted a section and asked for clarity. I also asked questions I couldn't deduce an answer for after reading the manual.

The amount of traction DIY electricity has gained worries me... I have enough understanding to be confident in what I'm doing, not even close to some of the members here.

 

[hipringles]

Agreed 100%.

I read the manual, highlighted a section and asked for clarity. I also asked questions I couldn't deduce an answer for after reading the manual.

The amount of traction DIY electricity has gained worries me... I have enough understanding to be confident in what I'm doing, not even close to some of the members here.

FWIW other inverters like the 6548, if one overloads (ie one phase), the entire group shuts down

 

[ncsolarelectric]

NEC 250.6

I'm referring to having N-G bond in more than one location if the inverter bonds N-G. If the inverter is used with a grid backup situation which is commonly done with these units, and there is N-G bond at the main service panel, under inverter operation, objectionable current will run on the ground.

If you want to learn more, here are 26 pages of discussion. https://diysolarforum.com/threads/mpp-lv6548-ground-neutral-safety.36241/

They are more............ this post leads you to some more links.

MPP LVX6048 with 2 pole manual transfer switch

Looks like the best answer to my question is to retrofit a transfer switch that switches the neutral as well as both lines but there's still a couple of things I'm not sure I've got my head wrapped around and maybe a couple of options I haven't thought of. I'm planning to use an MPP LVX6048 with...

diysolarforum.com

That thread started off talking about a 240V output inverter, not a 120V inverter. I'm not going to read 26 pages, but please, do not confound two different issues. The EG4 is a 120V inverter with a grounded neutral, not a 240V inverter like the MPP was, with a grounded neutral as is done for Europe, (TUV). That configuration is an issue because in the US, it is the center-leg of the Split phase that is grounded, not the L2 side of the 240V circuit. The EG4 is different, nobody is going to have that problem here because it isn't 240V output.

 

[Lt.Dan]

FWIW other inverters like the 6548, if one overloads (ie one phase), the entire group shuts down

This is true. But, unlike the SolArk or similar, you can FULLY load one leg (one inverter) and the inverters don't care. They act independently, so all they see is 100% load.

 

[hipringles]

This is true. But, unlike the SolArk or similar, you can FULLY load one leg (one inverter) and the inverters don't care. They act independently, so all they see is 100% load.

Sure, but loading 6600w on one leg, and 3000w on another is an overload here.

Where in a sol-ark I believe it's the IMBALANCE that matters. So on a 15k you can do 8000 on one and 2500 on another and that's ok

 

[Cyanlite]

Are better user interfaces coming out? These inverters have the same LCD screens like programming a VCR back in the 80s.

 

[Will Prowse]

This is true. But, unlike the SolArk or similar, you can FULLY load one leg (one inverter) and the inverters don't care. They act independently, so all they see is 100% load.

Exactly. And they run 100% load on a single leg for hours without issue.

 

[Will Prowse]

Sure, but loading 6600w on one leg, and 3000w on another is an overload here.

Where in a sol-ark I believe it's the IMBALANCE that matters. So on a 15k you can do 8000 on one and 2500 on another and that's ok

They work independently so no, it won't work for your application of 6600W on a single leg.

 

[hipringles]

They work independently so no, it won't work for your application of 6600W on a single leg.

"They" being 6548s yeah?
I was trying to say (and ive never tested to verify) sol-ark 15k aren't independent per leg, so you can get higher single leg output with some balance coming from the other

 

[Will Prowse]

"They" being 6548s yeah?
I was trying to say (and ive never tested to verify) sol-ark 15k aren't independent per leg, so you can get higher single leg output with some balance coming from the other

This thread is labeled "Signature Solar EG4 6.5K Off-Grid Inverter | 6500EX-48" so that is what I am referring to in my response. And I was responding to your post that was asking a question. Considering you know that feature of the sol ark, I would imagine that you could figure out which inverter I was referring to.

Also, the lv6548 and 6500EX is the same inverter with a few modifications.

The aforementioned inverter which we are discussing does not have that feature that the sol ark has. Which is what I said in my response to your question.

 

[hipringles]

This thread is labeled "Signature Solar EG4 6.5K Off-Grid Inverter | 6500EX-48" so that is what I am referring to in my response. And I was responding to your post that was asking a question. Considering you know that feature of the sol ark, I would imagine that you could figure out which inverter I was referring to.

Also, the lv6548 and 6500EX is the same inverter with a few modifications.

The aforementioned inverter which we are discussing does not have that feature that the sol ark has. Which is what I said in my response to your question.

For sure. Lots track of pro-nouns between my quoting of Dan and you