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Simple swap out lead acid -> LiFePo4

@JustAGuy101 -

My opinion: Install both batteries connected to a marine "1-2-both" disconnect switch.
1 - Lead (travel/shore power/storage), 2-LiFePO (camping)

When in "1" travel/shore power, it's just no drama. No worries about charge profiles, 7-pin charging, stolen battery, etc.
It's just the way it was designed.

When in "2" camping, no drama there either. if the LiFePO runs low, charge it it from the generator with the existing converter. Until you actually do it, you won't know if it charges to 90-80-70-60%. Either way, it's enough to finish the weekend. Your not running the generator long enough to be concerned with bulk, absorption, float charge.

If you're plugged into shore power, well, you're not using the battery anyway, so leave it in "1".

Use your LiFePO charger as a portable charger. Top off the LiFePO at home or camping.

You're supposed to have a set-up/disconnect check list.
First thing on the set-up list, "switch battery to camp" mode. Last thing on the disconnect list, "switch battery to travel" mode.
In the event that you replace the lead with another LiFePO, just leave the switch in "both" for the additional capacity.

You could have all these things done automatically; you just have to decide how much you want to pay. :)

Oh, and I would buy the 280Ah instead of the 206Ah.
Deeuubee:

You described in words, pretty much exactly what I'm going to do (see diagram above). I'm sure other people who use their RVs differently than we will will ultimately want a more refined/automated solution, I think this one is pretty much perfect. I already have my 206ah cells and have them all tested with the Overkill BMS (which is WAY cool BTW). After I did the first capacity test, I let the pack sit a couple of days until My Victron 30A charger got here. When it did, I started up my Westinghouse iGen 2200 and confirmed it would provide enough amperage to charge the pack at the full 30 amps which it did. I also found a Craftsman toolbox at Lowes that will fit the pack and BMS very nicely so it all remains portable (removable). Something must be wrong though because this plan is coming together nicely.
 
Congrats on your X213. We had a 2016 X213 before we traded up to a bigger TT a couple weeks ago. Great little trailer, we stuffed it into many places that weren't really meant for a trailer to be :).

I'm not entirely clear on the outcome of this discussion, and I have essentially the same question. I am building a DIY LFP battery with 272Ah cells (and I will probably build a second), and I'd like to just replace the FLA batteries with mine and not change much else. I'm using a Victron MPPT charge controller, but still have the stock WFCO converter.

So, is the consensus that the converter needs to be replaced? I thought I might just let it charge to 70% and then the solar can top it off.

And I hadn't considered the 7-pin from the truck. My TV is a '19 F250. Something else I have to find a solution for?

I don't want to do what you're doing, with a switch, I want to make it a fairly transparent drop-in solution.
- I contacted WFCO support and they said to get this --

WFCO WF-8950L2-MBA Replacement RV Power Converter Lithium-Ion Main Board​

and change out the converter main board ( 2 screws and 5 wires ) 15 min job you can find most anywhere -- on Amazon

 
Interesting that they are selling the guts of the converter. You may find that buying the entire converter and selling the old one is less expensive.
 
@Whinny - "I'm still concerned about the breakaway trailer brakes legality with a lithium battery and bms...."

The only DOT requirement is that the battery be able to hold the brake for 15 min.
Which is why they use those small 5Ah batteries.
(so, says the regulations geek at my mechanics when I had my trailer inspected last week.)
 
Thanks for that deeuubee, my only other concern is the bms being considered a disconnect device, I understood you were not allowed to put a fuse or breaker in the feed to the breakaway. I have been mistaken before...............many many times..............
 
Thanks for that deeuubee, my only other concern is the bms being considered a disconnect device, I understood you were not allowed to put a fuse or breaker in the feed to the breakaway. I have been mistaken before...............many many times..............
Where did you hear that?
The BMS is not a disconnect. It's just an internal electronic component in the magic black box :).
 
- I contacted WFCO support and they said to get this --

WFCO WF-8950L2-MBA Replacement RV Power Converter Lithium-Ion Main Board​

and change out the converter main board ( 2 screws and 5 wires ) 15 min job you can find most anywhere -- on Amazon

Yep, it's basically the same as getting the Progressive Dynamics board and doing the swap. Costs about the same, too. Seems like a lot of people prefer the PD option, but I have no basis for my own opinion on that, so it may not be backed up by real data.
 
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