robbob2112
Doing more research, mosty harmless
Seems like time to buy a higher powered transistor and use the heatsink compound...
Thanks. Do you have a link for the transistors? I'd like to try & fix mine if I could.I use the same load tester, and have blown up two of the semiconductors under the heat sink. It’s pretty startling after the first.
Despite the, in my case, the 150 watt rating, it turns out that at higher voltages like 24 and 48 the combined dissipation and switching voltage derate the max load spec significantly.
At 48 volts I keep the power below 50 watts.
The transistor is replaceable and I have two more spares for that purpose.
That's probably why it's only $43 on Amazon.You need to put about three more FET in parallel with that one to do any power. I have a 150W load tester and it is five times parts than that one.
I took it off the board & figured out it is an IRFP264N; TO-218. Looks like it's rated for 250v, 280w max. I looked for similar ones & a 260N; TO-247 is rated 200v but 300w. A 460 is rated to 500v, but still only 280w max. Which would you recommend?I would desolder the transistor that is there and read the number off the other side of it to verify they match what @effihas... bonus if you lookup the datasheet and get the same spec, but higher powered version....
At least I've got good paste!hrm, not much selection that just leaves having a better thermal bond to the heatsink...
DI (deionized) water isn’t conductive, we used to run laser tubes in DI water for cooling and they had some serious voltages on them.HEY - here is an idea - run it UNDER water![]()
Sometimes I am just a damned genius
How about heavy water?NO, I should have said salt water --denser so it can hold more heat
You don't need a bigger FET, you need more of them.
And either way, you may need more drive power.You don't need a bigger FET, you need more of them.
I've ordered the FET to replace the smoked one, but also saw this in another thread, and it looks a lot more robust than mine that failed, & not that much more expensive - ordered the 450w.Use some small solid 18 or 20awg wires like from rs485 cables and solder up another one in parallel to the first ... just off to the side maybe a heatsink pad under it them grease on both...
The print side of mine that failed, was not against the heat sink. The opposite side was.I still use it but these are just poorly designed. IIRC the transistor is mounted print side against the heat sink for one (I’ll stress the IIRC because I don’t retain memories too well).
I had one like that a few years ago and the knobs were switched in the instructions. There is a coarse knob and a fine knob and that is what caused the problem.The only adjustments are for current - Coarse & fine. As you adjust, it indicates the power in the readout. Instructions say to rotate both knobs fully counterclockwise (to zero) before test, which I did. I'd planned on about a day & a half for the test.