diy solar

diy solar

So much stuff but nothing that helps me Anyone have answers ?

Mortex

New Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2020
Messages
7
Hi
I like simple direct answers with out all the B/S pointless words / jibber jabber

as of Nov 16 2020 I got my double solar panel frame built to hold 4 X 100 watt solar panels for a 24V system
Currently only have 2 Renogy 100W panels
Currently have D29 Walmart deep cycle 2 year warrant batteries not the junk 1 year ones
EPEVER 40A MPPT Charge Controller
PYLE 24V to 12V 240watt step down converter

Next month (( Dec 2020 )) 24V pure sign wave 3,000w inverter I am looking to get

I am Disabled 56 homeless in NY western NY Buffalo / Rochester area Since May 2019
3 different agency's helping me to find a place that meets my disability needs...

I live in a 2005 Town and Country Touring Van 3.8L motor
Built an aluminum frame x 2 an inner and outer with struts that lift them up to max the best sun angle solar input
its awesome how it works anywho

I need help setting up the charge controller I just don't understand the manual
I watched hundreds of videos and looked at so so so many post and nothing to directly help me

example :::
when you buy say a book shelf you get simple Chinese instructions
How would you feel if they included say the whole encyclopedia library of say 80 books of worthless jibber jabber
in the instructions (( thats what I find in the videos and forums ))

The Manual that came with the charge controller is worthless Right now Its standard / automatic setup
I got nothing on how to properly set this controller up

I bought 100A circuit breakers (( scorpion off ebay )) JUNK they broke last night when I turned them off to work on the electric

Mr Heater Buddy Heater propane 20lb tank on my roof of the van
fully insulated expandable foam - R13 insulation - Radiant barrier Separation front from back 5 min of heat 73 degrees 10pm will last
59 degrees 5am (( Thats awesome heat retention )) I like 55 to 59 prefect for me
30 degrees outside with just the pilot light on it stays 60 degrees constant awesome last winter I froze my Dog's water dish would freeze 2/3 of the way
no insulation I spent all spring summer fall preparing for this winter no more freezing

Any help advice help setting up this charge controller would be awesome ymail
mortexs switch the order LOL
 
Hi Mortex, Welcome to the forum.

I can't offer you direct help, but there are many forum members who own the same charge controller as you do, so I suspect there are more than a few people here that can assist you.

I also know that the EPever is one of Will Prowse's go to charge controllers, it is likely he has made a video on it. Have a look at his youtube channel if you haven't already.
 
Hi Mortar,

How far are you with understanding DC current?
What are your misunderstandings with the use of the charge controller? The menu, how to connect stuff,... sth else?
 
OK, you want to make a 24V system. I assume you have two 12V batteries. Because of the lower DC voltage, you must use THICK copper wires to connect between the batteries and the charge controller. I think the largest wire that will fit into the Epever is 4 gauge. So, you will need three lengths of 4 gauge copper wire, say one 12 inch between the two batteries, and two 3 to 4 foot lengths from the batteries to the charge controller.

Now, the battery wiring. Connect the positive terminal of battery #1 to the negative terminal of battery #2 with the 12 inch wire. This is called a series connection. Two 12V batteries in series will give you 24V. Its best to use lug terminals you can buy at Home Depot to make the connections. Now connect the three foot length of wire to the negative terminal of battery #1 to the negative connection on the charge controller. Looking at the front of the controller, you see three sets of pluses and minuses. You use the center set for the battery. So, the battery negative goes to the center negative.

Do the same thing for the positive battery cable. Attach the second three foot cable to the positive terminal of battery #2, and then to the center plus connection on the controller. As soon as the positive connection is made to the battery, you will see the controller turn on. Let the controller boot up and then it will tell you the battery voltage.

You can now connect your panels the same way, in series. Connect the positive terminal of panel #1 to the negative terminal of panel #2. Then run a wire from the negative terminal of panel 1 down to the negative panel terminal on the controller. Ten gauge is OK. Its the leftmost negative terminal on the controller front. Then run a second 10 gauge wire from the positive on the panel to the positive on the controller. Its the far left plus terminal.

Remember, never connect the panels to the controller before you connect the battery first. When you disconnect the system for maintainence or repair, always disconnect the panels first, before the battery.

Hope your situation improves. Good luck!

Once you get your inverter, connect the inverter directly to the battery at the same connection points as the battery to controller connections. Use the thickest copper wire you can find to make the battery to inverter connection. Wires as thick as you finger, say 1 gauge and larger are appropriate. Ignore the load terminals on the far right of the controller. They are only for a small load like a light bulb.
 
Which model of Epever is it? I have a 4210AN, it's default program is for sealed-lead-acid.

What type of battery is a D29 from walmart? I can't find it on their website.
 
Do you not need more than 100 amps for a 3000 watt 6000 surge inverter ? I would have guessed 120 to 150 amp fuse.
 
Do you not need more than 100 amps for a 3000 watt 6000 surge inverter ? I would have guessed 120 to 150 amp fuse.
This thread is from a year or so ago but 250amps+ for 3000W12V
OP is on to other things with different spec’s.:
 
This thread is from a year or so ago but 250amps+ for 3000W12V
OP is on to other things with different spec’s.:
Sorry I thought he was doing 24 volt. And sometimes people need a poke to remember. Not an electrical poke though.
 
Hi every one and Thank you all for taking the time to answer - reply etc....

I am sorry I was not able to get back in touch until today
My laptop kicked the bucket - and so so much has happened *** POSITIVE THINGS ***
since my post

I have a new laptop Yeaa
I am out of my Van and Living in a Camper now Double yeaa yeaa

I will do my best to post some photos of my Solar Panel frame soon as I can...

I have 4 12V - 100watt Renogy Solar Panels Hooked up 24V
I have 4 Walmart Deep Cycle Marine Batteries
I have 2 EPEVER 40A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 100V Input Tracer 4210AN

I Mounted the Frame with the 4 solar panels on top of my New Van
I have it connected for 24V system
I have 2 wires + and - that run out back about 10 feet to the Camper with 150amp Quick Connect / Disconnect
I can disconnect wires from Camper / Solar Controllers unhook my trailer and get my appointments and shopping done

with out having to tow my trailer every where..
Inside the storage section / front of the camper is
where put the 4 Batteries and both MPPT Charge Controllers


By December I hope to have 8 deep cycle Batteries total

Any Advice -
I want to use 2 solar panels + 1 MPPT charge controller to charge 4 batteries and same when I get the other 4 batteries
2 Charge Controllers charging 8 total batteries
Hooking up that way will it charge my batteries faster....?

Current advice
will using 2 Solar panels and 1 controller to charge 2 batteries a pair @ 24V
and the same with the other 2 solar panels - batteries and controller
will it charge them faster using 2 solar panels + 1 Controller 24V Battery
OR just use 1 charge Controller ? until I get the other 4 batteries ..??
Thanks

 
I cannot tell what your battery banks will look like. When you have 8 batteries, will you have 2 different battery banks or will all 8 be connected 4P2S or 2SP2 ? If its all one bank, you should not charge half with one charge controller and the other half with a second charge controller.

Same question (and answer for now while you only have 4 batteries).

The only way i can see needing 2 charge controllers is if a single one is maxed out but that does not seem likely with 4 little panels.

You seem more under paneled than under batteries from what i can see. But you have not really described what problems you are trying to solve with adding more equipment.
 
2 Charge Controllers charging 8 total batteries
Hooking up that way will it charge my batteries faster....?
No. Use one controller.
And mount your panels on the camper.

Of course I know nothing of what you’re running, so here’s the wildhat advice:
With 4 100W panels 2S2P- that is an ok match for 4-5 Group 27s. 8 batteries may stretch your ‘reserve’ during cloudy periods, but if you’re using enough power to discharge 8 batteries down to ~65% or lower 400W may struggle in less than ideal sun. (Why 8 batteries?)

4 100W commodity panels 2S2P is roughly 10-12A max, and 8 100W panels 2S4P is very roughly 20A- 25A. One of those SCCs will do either fine.

You seem more under paneled than under batteries from what i can see. But you have not really described what problems you are trying to solve with adding more equipment
Yes, agreed.

I assume Mortex is 24V from the panels into 12V batteries? Because the camper likely has a lot of 12V thingies to take advantage of and going 24V batteries on small systems seems dubious for advantages. And I assume he’s using the camper fridge on gas or has gone to a 120V traditional fridge because on 120V a camper fridge is thief.

fwiw what are your loads? Cuz I’m on 400W with ‘lectric fridge and I have enough power overnights with five LA batteries. 800W of panels would be better imho
 
Which model of Epever is it? I have a 4210AN, it's default program is for sealed-lead-acid.

What type of battery is a D29 from walmart? I can't find it on their website.
Yes the marine deep cycle 29D 850cca 2 year warranty they are on the website they are difficult to find
you have to type them in exactly to bring them up..
Not all walmarts carry the 2 year warranty ones some have switched to 1 year only
 
No. Use one controller.
And mount your panels on the camper.

Of course I know nothing of what you’re running, so here’s the wildhat advice:
With 4 100W panels 2S2P- that is an ok match for 4-5 Group 27s. 8 batteries may stretch your ‘reserve’ during cloudy periods, but if you’re using enough power to discharge 8 batteries down to ~65% or lower 400W may struggle in less than ideal sun. (Why 8 batteries?)

4 100W commodity panels 2S2P is roughly 10-12A max, and 8 100W panels 2S4P is very roughly 20A- 25A. One of those SCCs will do either fine.


Yes, agreed.

I assume Mortex is 24V from the panels into 12V batteries? Because the camper likely has a lot of 12V thingies to take advantage of and going 24V batteries on small systems seems dubious for advantages. And I assume he’s using the camper fridge on gas or has gone to a 120V traditional fridge because on 120V a camper fridge is thief.

fwiw what are your loads? Cuz I’m on 400W with ‘lectric fridge and I have enough power overnights with five LA batteries. 800W of panels would be better imho

I use Reliable Pure Sine Wave Power Inverter 24V 3000 watt
I have 4x O2 cool 9-12V fans that actually runs great on 24V they run 24/7 the heat is too much here I need constant air moving
I have a 54Qt fridge/freezer 12/24v runs 24/7
I have 2 mainstay 5v usb Fans --- runs 24/7
I have - NuWave Oven I use 2 times a day
Ninja DT200 Foodi, I use 3-4 times a week
Laptop, runs 24/7
A Coffee Maker 2-3 times a day
and 4 x 12v camper led lights with dimmer switch -- honestly use too much electric 1 to 2 on at a time mostly at night
The walmart led light in the Automotive headlight section are better they are just as bright and use less electric

The past 3 years it's been horrible for Sun Light I get on average 2 hours a day when there is sun
this year it's been even less as 5 days a week it's raining / cloudy

My generator kicked the bucket - motor is good just burned out generator Green power america junk
I used it to run a 24V battery Charger and charge the batteries when
they get down to 10/11 Volts usually takes 20 to 26 hours

I modified the Generator removing it and installed a 24V Alternator 100amp with pully & Belt
It charges the Batteries in 45min to 1 hour

my 4 solar panels are on top of my new van
My new living situation will get me around 4 hours of sunlight when it's not raining / cloudy
I am using 50amp 250v plug adapter to a mounted box out side of storage area
I attached RICH SOLAR 20 Feet 10 Gauge Solar Extension Cable to the plug and now I can move / adjust the van to get
a few more hours of sun when it's not raining - cloudy


I have a 80amp circuit breaker on the positive wire going into the solar controller
I also have the same type 80Amp on the positive wire going to the batteries
I will get my camera Charged and get photos to post
My sincere Apology I don't know all the terms etc... I'm just trying to figure it all out
To get the fastest charge with the little sunlight I have
I am on Disability
I have little Income often having to save a few months to buy stuff

I just watched a few youtube videos showing how to hook up and use
multi controllers
If I hook up 2 solar panels 24v 1 controller to 2 batteries @- 24v
and do the same with the other 2 will it charge the batteries quicker ?
giving I have little sunlight
or will 4 solar panels and one controller work better
sorry I am just trying to understand all this
1 million videos - some agree some contradict and some just out in left field
thanks
 
Since you have an EPEVER 40A MPPT Charge Controller, this will be more than enough for all four panels. Having said that, 400W in panels isn't a lot for the amount of stuff you intend to run on a daily basis, especially during winter you'll struggle getting those batteries charged.
 
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