diy solar

diy solar

Sol-Ark 15k install Schematics

brenden3010

New Member
Joined
Jul 20, 2022
Messages
3
Solar company sent me this diagram that was submitted for approval to my power company. I cant make heads or tails of this, as it doesn't seem to match the standard Sol-Ark 15k wiring diagram. Our system includes 32 400w panels, a Sol-Ark 15k, and six 48v EG4 batteries we will be connecting ourselves. They are aware we have and will attach the batteries at a later date. We want to have the Sol-Ark feed the entire 200A panel, so we are skipping a subpanel. Can anyone explain what I am looking at or if this is even correct for a grid tied hybrid setup with PV and batteries? Thank you!
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot 2022-08-24 223327.png
    Screenshot 2022-08-24 223327.png
    236.2 KB · Views: 433
Wrong on a number of levels, but if the purpose is for utility approval it might make sense. Basically, the diagram doesn't give you permission to add the batteries. They are taking a few lazy approaches by the looks of it, but it will do the job.

I hadn't seen the rapid shutdown device installed that way before; I am used to seeing it just on the DC side of PV. Doesn't seem right, but I don't know SolArk very well.
 
You have a 200 amp service. The diagram shows a disconnect 100 amp with 80 amp fuses. I believe that the 15kw Sol-Ark is rated at 200 amps pass through. This design plan is limiting the full potential of the inverter especially if you want to use it as a backup system. Another way to look at it. Say you are in “time of use” charge and you are pulling 40 amps from the grid to feed the batteries, then you microwave something now the AC just kicked on……The fuses at the disconnect just went poof! Did I miss something?
 
I think the way they've wired it up the Sol ark can only feed the grid and panel but not consume from it. This means using the grid to charge the batteries would not be possible.

My guess is they are connecting the Sol ark "load" output to the tap box and aren't taking in the grid.

If your panels are all DC input into the Sol ark, I don't think you'll exceed 80A outbound and the fused disconnect shouldn't hold you back, but I'm not an electrician
 
Solar company sent me this diagram that was submitted for approval to my power company. I cant make heads or tails of this, as it doesn't seem to match the standard Sol-Ark 15k wiring diagram. Our system includes 32 400w panels, a Sol-Ark 15k, and six 48v EG4 batteries we will be connecting ourselves. They are aware we have and will attach the batteries at a later date. We want to have the Sol-Ark feed the entire 200A panel, so we are skipping a subpanel. Can anyone explain what I am looking at or if this is even correct for a grid tied hybrid setup with PV and batteries? Thank you!
So they are wiring it up as a Grid tied inverter with a line side tap. This would be fine for a standard grid tied inverter ( they obviously are unaware of Sol Ark Hybrid) I just replaced our Grid Tied SMA inverter with a Sol Ark 15. Our old inverter was wired this way on a line side tap. During Sol Ark install we abandoned our line side tap completely. They need to understand that the Sol Ark makes the connection internally so no line side tap is necessary. It installs directly from the meter base with a 200a disconnect on the outside of the house.
 
That’s a heck of a nice machine. Love the features and specs. Probably a couple in my next house.
 
Solar company sent me this diagram that was submitted for approval to my power company. I cant make heads or tails of this, as it doesn't seem to match the standard Sol-Ark 15k wiring diagram. Our system includes 32 400w panels, a Sol-Ark 15k, and six 48v EG4 batteries we will be connecting ourselves. They are aware we have and will attach the batteries at a later date. We want to have the Sol-Ark feed the entire 200A panel, so we are skipping a subpanel. Can anyone explain what I am looking at or if this is even correct for a grid tied hybrid setup with PV and batteries? Thank you!

Assuming the service conductors (and meter) weren't over-sized, aren't they unprotected from over-current in this design? 300A = 100A (tap) + 200A (MSP). Was the Line-Side tap approved for inverters that only feed-back but never draw from the grid? Is it still valid for hybrid inverters like the Sol-Ark?
 
Just talked to Sol-Ark engineering who agree that the conductors between the tap and the grid should be rated for 400A in diagram 7 of the manual. Alternatively the 200A fuse could be placed between the tap and the meter.Screen Shot 2022-11-30 at 6.32.32 AM.png
 
So the line side tap is generally not rated for this kind of load. I converted to a Sol Ark 15 a few months ago from a GT inverter on a line side tap. I completely abandoned my line side tap. Brought new wire from meter base to the Sol Ark. no line side tap necessary with the Sol Ark
 
Is this right?
(E) Meter base -> (N) 200A Fused Disconnect -> (N) Sol-Ark -> (E) Panel main breaker/disconnect


In that case, did you connect 2" conduit from the Meter/main out to the disconnect, and 2" conduit from the Sol-Ark to the Meter/main?
 
So I also have a whole house genset so here is how we have ours connected. Meter base to our automatic transfer switch. Generator to the automatic transfer switch. Auto transfer switch to to manual transfer switch (see pic). We split the line from the ATS one to the MTS one to the Sol Ark grid input. Sol Ark Grid output back to the other lug on the MTS. From the MTS to my load center. This gives us a way to totally bypass the Sol Ark in case it craps out we can manually throw the MTS and get grid back to the load center and the house. I didnt install anther 200A disconnect outside as I use my 200A auto transfer switch as my 200A disconnect. But yes we ran 2" conduit as you describe..
 

Attachments

  • 914E00E1-D475-4618-A5A5-26F6B67A1918.jpeg
    914E00E1-D475-4618-A5A5-26F6B67A1918.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 147
  • 5461CC09-2ABD-4371-94B1-3F451EC07606.jpeg
    5461CC09-2ABD-4371-94B1-3F451EC07606.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 137
Last edited by a moderator:
Thank you, that's really helpful. I didn't realize I could take a detour out of the enclosure between the meter base and the breakers. I think I'll do something similar. Any issues/tips for making changes to the utility-sealed side of the meter/main?
 
Thank ou. I found some interesting discussion on this topic in the Tesla support forum.

One difficulty that I imagine that could be encountered when trying to replace factory installed conductors in a CSED with field wiring is that the manufacturer may have used smaller wires or tighter bends in the wire than the NEC would allow. So you might be left with inadequate bending space or needing to replace lugs to accommodate a larger wire. [Zero first hand experience on these possible issues.]

Wire bending room is the number one thing that makes all of this difficult. The only successful field evaluations I have done are turning a CSED into a Meter socket enclosure, and UL certifying a line side tap to factory conductors inside a CSED. The rest is just theoretical, and not the KISS way to deal with this. The good options are outlined above.
 
What you want:

Your sol ark should connect to the incoming power from the meter. The main panel should then be powered by the output coming out of the sol ark. They have nothing hooked to the output of your sol ark making it basically useless.

Meter <=> Sol Ark => Main Panel.
<= PV (into sol ark)

What they gave you:

Your meter is powering both the sol ark and your main power. This is how you setup a GRID TIED solar system with no back up capability like an Enphase micro inverter system. When the power goes out your home will lose power. Who ever designed this doesn't know what the hell they are doing.

Meter <= Sol Ark <= PV
=> Main Panel

Do you have a contract with this installer? If not find a competent one. If you do what does it say? Does it say that the system will be setup to allow battery back up to be added in the future? If you haven't signed anything yet, do not sign anything until this is straightened out. It sounds like you know more about how this is supposed to work than your installer. You may need a lawyer.

Also, I would highly recommend putting a "Main Grid Disconnect" just after the meter. If you or anyone else is going to safely work on the system, you need to have a way of cutting off the power going into the sol ark. You also need this as a practical matter to test that the off grid switch over is being performed properly. This could be a big switch or even a box with a 200 amp breaker.
 
Last edited:
When you add batteries the AC disconnect will not perform rapid shutdown.
 
When you add batteries the AC disconnect will not perform rapid shutdown.
I do not have a requirement for Rapid Shut Down on my roof but I did want to give first responders the ability to shut down my inverter externally in the event of an emergency. I installed a big red switch which was wired to the RSD terminals on my inverter and that shuts the inverter down when the button is pressed.
 
Back
Top