6
629658
Guest
You have Sol Ark? I know I can make a call for battery charge in Powerview and then go into Solar Assistant and it’s charging immediately
Last edited by a moderator:
Sol-Ark 15k pass through when "off"?
- Thread starter DThames
- Start date
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
Yes, I bought it in December. I can make changes in Solar Assistant also and see them instantly. Still getting used to the interface.
6
629658
Guest
if available I would utilize TOU rates with your Utility and then take advantage of those (buy low sell high). We set our charge times based upon the daily lows and then we are able to grid sell our excess PV at the higher rates. I like Solar Assistant but for settings I use the Power View app on my phone. Just my preference.
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
Yes, those TOU settings were the first thing I focused on. The logic was different than my Skybox but I am getting used to it. I like that each rate has individual settings for charge, sell and amount. During summer my highest rate is $0.55 /kWh. and winter it is only $0.43/kWh. What I also like is the seasonal settings because my loads are greater in winter because of heating. We also have more power outages so I add a little charge from the grid early AM in case power goes out. I have discussed this more in my build thread
diysolarforum.com
My SolArk 12k install with Enphase Micros
I had previously reported on my Outback Skybox install with a 7kW Enphase micro GT system.. I recently evaluated my needs and the easiest way for me to add incremental capacity is with micros on my west facing roof pitches. For a couple of reasons I decided to upgrade to a SolArk 12k which in...
diysolarforum.com
Last edited:
6
629658
Guest
Our TOU rates are hourly and change daily so we just pick the cheapest 2 hours in a day and charge cheap.Yes, those TOU settings were the first thing I focused on. The logic was different than my Skybox but I am getting used to it. I like that each rate has individual settings for charge, sell and amount. During summer my highest rate is $0.55 /kWh. and winter it is only $0.43/kWh. What I also like is the seasonal settings because my loads are greater in winter because of heating. We also have more power outages so I add a little charge from the grid early AM in case power goes out. I have discussed this more in my build thread
My SolArk 12k install with Enphase Micros
I had previously reported on my Outback Skybox install with a 7kW Enphase micro GT system.. I recently evaluated my needs and the easiest way for me to add incremental capacity is with micros on my west facing roof pitches. For a couple of reasons I decided to upgrade to a SolArk 12k which in...
Attachments
OzSolar
Whatever you did, that's what you planned.
I hate to get in the way of a good public hanging but could I say a few things?
1- I'm installing a Sol-Ark 15 right now. In fact, spent a few hours trying to track down a rather random arc fault error most of this afternoon.
2 - I've never said anything bad or even attempted to imply anything bad Sol-Arks or any other AIO. No SolArk et al ax today or ever in the past.
3 - I've already stated I wasn't complaining about SolArk. You can choose to believe that or not or perhaps you only read the parts of my post you wanted to. I've been guilty of that myself.
4- I certainly didn't say that Sol-Ark was doing anything "dangerous or impossible" and didn't even remotely imply it. Those were your words, not mine.
5 - Feel free to read my original post with the above in mind and maybe what you'll see is that I was expressing surprise AND admitting ignorance. My pointing out that the Schneider was limited to 60 amps was intended to illustrate a limitation compared to a 200 amp transfer switch arrangement. Did I did I actually say Schneider was better? I can't even see where it was implied.
As I mentioned above, I've not said one bad thing about SolArks or AIO's in this thread or at any time in the past. Could you be confusing me for someone else and/or be spring loaded to anything that you see against SolArk, imaginary or not. It appears that if anyone doesn't use "SolArk" and "perfect" in the same sentence it you take offense. Take it up with someone else, please as I might forget to follow your rules.
What I was trying to say is that I was ignorant about the benefits of using a transfer switch with a SolArk and trying to point out that others could be helped, particularly during the planning stages if they knew this information. Transfer switches have always been my practice, but the AIO is new to me. The irony is that is I was so impressed with everything else I'd heard about Sol-Ark it seemed odd that their "failure mode" didn't result in the AC In being fed to the AC Out.
Months later you take a shot at me out of the blue for something you thought I said, and I responded accordingly not realizing that you thought I was the chief architect and prosecutor Sol-Ark and all AIO's.
Feel free to proceed with the public hanging, just try to supply evidence before you make any more accusations.
Cheers!
Last edited:
400bird
Solar Wizard
I am saying everyone that for an inverter to default to allowing AC passthrough would be dangerous.
Monitoring (to know if it is safe to close the passthrough relays) would be impossible, as the inverter and logic circuits are off.
I wasn't putting those words into your mouth. I was telling you the thing (I thought) you wanted was dangerous.
Emphasis mine, looks to me like you were implying you expected default AC passthrough:
6
629658
Guest
Explanation accepted but perhaps instead of blaming all of us for misunderstanding you (and there were several of us) perhaps you might want to look at the way you conveyed your message in the future. Dont you find it odd that the rest of us in here all received the same message and interpreted it the same way? Very odd indeed. The Sol Ark is not perfect but its much closer than anything else out there at the moment. Irregardless whether you have a Sol Ark or not all we expect is fair and honest. Fiction is unacceptable. Sol Ark can hold their own.
I think it was already mentioned...
The electrician put a mechanical bypass interlock on the critical loads panel to switch critical loads to either grid or sol-ark load (12k). This interlock/bypass has been great to have. If I push the interlock fast enough the critical loads never lose power. But if I move it too slow there is enough power interruption to cause them all to shutoff for a second.
The electrician put a mechanical bypass interlock on the critical loads panel to switch critical loads to either grid or sol-ark load (12k). This interlock/bypass has been great to have. If I push the interlock fast enough the critical loads never lose power. But if I move it too slow there is enough power interruption to cause them all to shutoff for a second.
I agree. I have used the Midnite Solar MNTRANSFER-60A, so you can connect either the GRID or the LOAD to the LOAD, but not both at the same time. The other breaker turns off before the 2nd breaker turns on. The largest breakers I have found for the enclosure are 80 Amps. I have looked for a larger amperage unit of this design, but have not been able to find one. They are all just DPDT.
Attachments
howiegrapek
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2020
- Messages
- 26
My experience is that the Sol-Ark will not pass through with power off.
So, I installed it this way... A simple three pole bypass switch - "grid / off / solar" - to my main panel. I dunno, I like the "manual" cutover/bypass myself. Less stuff to break.
After this was installed, I was told I could have replaced my 3 pole box with a 200 amp Generac auto transfer switch (about $700 retail) wired up the same way ... and get creative with the 12v contactor inside the Generac ATX. basically, build a circuit box which would send 12v to the ATX contactor when there is AC sensed from the Sol-Ark.... If the Sol-Ark turns of, there is no ac, therefore, the 12v is off, then the contactor would switch back causing the generac to pass Grid power to the main panel. This is counterintuitive to the way the ATX would normally work, but it would do the job. Being an engineer, that kind of circuitry is easy enough, but honestly, like I said above, I like the manual bypass method.
So, I installed it this way... A simple three pole bypass switch - "grid / off / solar" - to my main panel. I dunno, I like the "manual" cutover/bypass myself. Less stuff to break.
After this was installed, I was told I could have replaced my 3 pole box with a 200 amp Generac auto transfer switch (about $700 retail) wired up the same way ... and get creative with the 12v contactor inside the Generac ATX. basically, build a circuit box which would send 12v to the ATX contactor when there is AC sensed from the Sol-Ark.... If the Sol-Ark turns of, there is no ac, therefore, the 12v is off, then the contactor would switch back causing the generac to pass Grid power to the main panel. This is counterintuitive to the way the ATX would normally work, but it would do the job. Being an engineer, that kind of circuitry is easy enough, but honestly, like I said above, I like the manual bypass method.
Attachments
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
I used a $30 interlock and an additional breaker and some wire to give me a bypass for maintenance and/or reboots.
howiegrapek
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2020
- Messages
- 26
is that rated at 200 amps? but yes, that's the idea
Ampster
Renewable Energy Hobbyist
No it is a 12k and I used a 60 Amp breaker because that is also the size of the breaker on the AC out on the SolArk 12k. A 200 Amp breaker might be hard to find for use in an interlock or it may be more expensive than a three way bypass switch.
howiegrapek
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2020
- Messages
- 26
Ya, this bypass switch needs to be whole house cutover / UL rated, etc... it was expensive (like $800) but works perfectly, and passes code.
Do you also have grid power going into the Solark? For a new house we're building, if we connect to the grid, I'm hoping to design a system that allows whatever inverter I buy to be assisted by the grid (primarily for battery recharging but also possibly grid export/net metering). So, an input would be necessary. However, I'd also like to be able to bypass the inverter entirely if there's a problem with it. Thanks for any info you can share.
howiegrapek
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2020
- Messages
- 26
Yes, mine is fully grid connected. See the attached schematic for details - still not sure about the panic button, will probably add that too. Also, i am not sure if the fusable disconnect on the outside is required, as my meter can/first panel has a service disconnect 200amp breaker, but it was recommended by my county.
