So after second guessing whether it was part of a firmware update or not, and/or if this could be the cause of what seems to be the Sol-ark running hot often and an very sporadic Arc Fault alarm once every 3 or 4 months, I decided to begin unhooking all IN/OUT wires from the Sol-ark until the AC Voltage's showing on L1 and L2 of the GRID section of the display went away. Turns out it must be something the Sol-Ark is doing on purpose, some trype of "Polling" /sensing so that it will immediately recognize and adjust to any eventual Input from Generator or whatever else(AC coupling etc...)
Finally when the L1 input to the Load breaker was removed it threw an error code and shutdown. "Current Leakage"
funny thing is even though the AC voltage showing on Grid L1 was gone, it never went away for Grid L2.
However, during this process I have discovered that I prob need to re-address the Neutral /Ground Bond location(s) as well as the PV array Ground. As I was trying to determine if/why my unit seemed to be running a little Hot, i watched all sorts of videos and looked at alot of pictures of other people's Sol-arks and noticed that the majority only showed 1 Ground wire and 1 Neutral wire tied directly into the units. Mine had 4 Ground wires and 3 Neutral wires, and other tgan seemingly running a little Hot, it has otherwise been performing very well overall. None of the previous alarms over the 2 years its been running have been directly related to current leakage/Ground Fault.
Most of these Neutral and Ground connections to the Sol-ark were a result of the Power Co. Changing their rules literally the day after my installation and the reverse engineering which needed to be done to avoid having to also install a Real Time remote monitoring system with ON/OFF control at my remote location so their Communist Overlords who thirst for complete control could still potentially subject me to their latest weapon of choice, shutting down power to anyone who diagrees/steps out of line etc..., (See anyone who had a " Party" at their house, as defined by them of course / or Churches during Covid Lockdowns)
Anyway, so as to remain a "Free person" for as long as I could, I instead installed a 2 Pole Non-Fusible Safety Switch next to the Outdoor Service Entrance where these clowns could put a shiny little lock and then pound sand all the way back down the 3 mile off road "path" to the nearest paved road. Luckily i already had 2 150A service entries and so began my "Partial Off Grid" installation in reverse. Basically 2 full size Breaker Panel boxes, one of which is still fed by the Overlord's Goon's and which now only runs a whopping 4 circuits/5% of the Loads and the other Panel which has transitioned from a "Critical Loads" panel to the "Main" Panel which runs almost everything and currently where Neutral/Ground is Bonded!
However I have also had to put in a transfer switch system for the 2 full size HVAC'S as the Sol-Ark would struggle to run these with no help at all from the Grid and occassionally when there are 6 or 8 people onsite/filling freezers it wouldn't be polite to ask them not to be 100% comfortable.
Looking for some advice /Feedback/tips from the Pro's who have already been discussing this N/G issue ad-naseum, but not this particular setup/applied to these circumstances/equipment components.
Pic 1 shows rats nest of Neutral Ground connections
Pic 2 shows the 2 Breaker Panels, right side started as a Critical Loads Panel but now runs almost everything and is where Neutral Ground is Bonded at least outside of the Sol-ark and although perhaps other places too; left Panel is now basically a decoy to placate the totalitarians and runs almost nothing that is actually used more than 2 or 3 times a year.
Pic 3 and 4 shows screen reading AC Voltage under GRID even after NOTHING feeding/tying into the Sol-ark but the Batteries.
Pic 5 the Error Alarm finally
Pic 6 Outdoor service entrance 150A goes to Inside Panel on the Left after going thru the indoor Transfer Switch/Safety switch below the Sol-ark. I have removed the wires coming out the switch into the Grid Input on Solark ans dont plan on putting them back. Also showing Ground bonded to metal and maybe to Neutral as well.
Pic 7 the other sevice entrance that could also power the Sol-ark "new Main Panel" if I turn it on.Also showing Ground and Neutral.
Pic8 and 9 outdoor view showing the 2 150A service entrances, their New-speak control apparattus and a newly installed and never used receptacle to either feed batteries via a Generator or use as a Smart Load Output to charge my meat getter with 15Kwh'r Lifepo4/legit 45 mile range
Pic 10. The Transfer/Safety Switch underneath the Sol-ark that used to also contain 4 additional wires going to the Solark Grid Input after first being censored in the box outisde with a lock on it
I spoke with Sol-ark numerous times during the various stages of maintaining Freedom and followed their advice generally speaking so everyone relax a bit, it has actually been working fairly well but its time to get the last couple things straightened out. In particukar until now the PV Grou d wasnterminated into the Sol-Ark itself, which just seems like a bad idea to me.
Thanks
Finally when the L1 input to the Load breaker was removed it threw an error code and shutdown. "Current Leakage"
funny thing is even though the AC voltage showing on Grid L1 was gone, it never went away for Grid L2.
However, during this process I have discovered that I prob need to re-address the Neutral /Ground Bond location(s) as well as the PV array Ground. As I was trying to determine if/why my unit seemed to be running a little Hot, i watched all sorts of videos and looked at alot of pictures of other people's Sol-arks and noticed that the majority only showed 1 Ground wire and 1 Neutral wire tied directly into the units. Mine had 4 Ground wires and 3 Neutral wires, and other tgan seemingly running a little Hot, it has otherwise been performing very well overall. None of the previous alarms over the 2 years its been running have been directly related to current leakage/Ground Fault.
Most of these Neutral and Ground connections to the Sol-ark were a result of the Power Co. Changing their rules literally the day after my installation and the reverse engineering which needed to be done to avoid having to also install a Real Time remote monitoring system with ON/OFF control at my remote location so their Communist Overlords who thirst for complete control could still potentially subject me to their latest weapon of choice, shutting down power to anyone who diagrees/steps out of line etc..., (See anyone who had a " Party" at their house, as defined by them of course / or Churches during Covid Lockdowns)
Anyway, so as to remain a "Free person" for as long as I could, I instead installed a 2 Pole Non-Fusible Safety Switch next to the Outdoor Service Entrance where these clowns could put a shiny little lock and then pound sand all the way back down the 3 mile off road "path" to the nearest paved road. Luckily i already had 2 150A service entries and so began my "Partial Off Grid" installation in reverse. Basically 2 full size Breaker Panel boxes, one of which is still fed by the Overlord's Goon's and which now only runs a whopping 4 circuits/5% of the Loads and the other Panel which has transitioned from a "Critical Loads" panel to the "Main" Panel which runs almost everything and currently where Neutral/Ground is Bonded!
However I have also had to put in a transfer switch system for the 2 full size HVAC'S as the Sol-Ark would struggle to run these with no help at all from the Grid and occassionally when there are 6 or 8 people onsite/filling freezers it wouldn't be polite to ask them not to be 100% comfortable.
Looking for some advice /Feedback/tips from the Pro's who have already been discussing this N/G issue ad-naseum, but not this particular setup/applied to these circumstances/equipment components.
Pic 1 shows rats nest of Neutral Ground connections
Pic 2 shows the 2 Breaker Panels, right side started as a Critical Loads Panel but now runs almost everything and is where Neutral Ground is Bonded at least outside of the Sol-ark and although perhaps other places too; left Panel is now basically a decoy to placate the totalitarians and runs almost nothing that is actually used more than 2 or 3 times a year.
Pic 3 and 4 shows screen reading AC Voltage under GRID even after NOTHING feeding/tying into the Sol-ark but the Batteries.
Pic 5 the Error Alarm finally
Pic 6 Outdoor service entrance 150A goes to Inside Panel on the Left after going thru the indoor Transfer Switch/Safety switch below the Sol-ark. I have removed the wires coming out the switch into the Grid Input on Solark ans dont plan on putting them back. Also showing Ground bonded to metal and maybe to Neutral as well.
Pic 7 the other sevice entrance that could also power the Sol-ark "new Main Panel" if I turn it on.Also showing Ground and Neutral.
Pic8 and 9 outdoor view showing the 2 150A service entrances, their New-speak control apparattus and a newly installed and never used receptacle to either feed batteries via a Generator or use as a Smart Load Output to charge my meat getter with 15Kwh'r Lifepo4/legit 45 mile range
Pic 10. The Transfer/Safety Switch underneath the Sol-ark that used to also contain 4 additional wires going to the Solark Grid Input after first being censored in the box outisde with a lock on it
I spoke with Sol-ark numerous times during the various stages of maintaining Freedom and followed their advice generally speaking so everyone relax a bit, it has actually been working fairly well but its time to get the last couple things straightened out. In particukar until now the PV Grou d wasnterminated into the Sol-Ark itself, which just seems like a bad idea to me.
Thanks
