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diy solar

Sol-Ark problems by David Poz.. anyone else?

I like that kind of installation. Even though Sol-Ark says the 15K does not need a transfer switch I feel a lot better knowing one is there just in case.
BTW make sure you add an Eaton Surge Protector onto your Mains AC lines. I did not put one in at first and as luck would have it within 3 months a bolt of lightning struck the power line about 100 yards from my house. It scared the bejesus out of us and I was extremely lucky it did not blow up the Inverter.
I’ll see if I can find one. Do you have a model number?
 
I’ll see if I can find one. Do you have a model number?
The Cheaper one that I bought
Eaton Basic

The new more expensive one with better protection.
Eaton Deluxe

Takes 20 minutes to install into the main Panel box. Just attach it to the side and run two of the wires to a 50Amp breaker and the other to the Ground Bar. My electrician told me that they really do work. He has seen them get fried by a lighting strike but nothing in the house was damaged.
 
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I just replaced both MCUs in my dual 12Ks as well as updated the firmware on the advice and guidance of Sol-Ark to try to solve LED light pulsating and flickering as well as overload faults when there were no overloads. Now they will not parallel. Spent hours on the phone with Sol-Ark support trying to fix it. Now I'm down to one inverter while new COM boards are sent to me. I hope this will be the solution.

Tech support has been very accommodating.
 
I like that kind of installation. Even though Sol-Ark says the 15K does not need a transfer switch I feel a lot better knowing one is there just in case.
BTW make sure you add an Eaton Surge Protector onto your Mains AC lines. I did not put one in at first and as luck would have it within 3 months a bolt of lightning struck the power line about 100 yards from my house. It scared the bejesus out of us but I was extremely lucky it did not blow up the Inverter.
I have about 11ea Midnite Solar SPD on my system. I have used them for years on HVAC systems. They work.
 
I have about 11ea Midnite Solar SPD on my system. I have used them for years on HVAC systems. They work.
Yes I think most of the units on the Market will work just fine. They all use MOV's to clamp high voltage and shunt it to ground.
It's a cheap and reliable safety item against Surges and Spikes.
 
That’s a 200a manual transfer switch to the right of our inverter. I can bypass the inverter and go 100% grid if necessary.
Yes! I’m in the midst of installing a Sol-Ark 15k and have been considering adding a 200A manual transfer switch for the same reason. Just came back to this forum to see if anyone else had done this, so, thanks for this post. Would you provide more info about the switch? Source? Manufacturer? Model? Why you chose this particular switch? Thx.
 
Yes I think most of the units on the Market will work just fine. They all use MOV's to clamp high voltage and shunt it to ground.
It's a cheap and reliable safety item against Surges and Spikes.
While most SPD's meet the minimum standard, some are far better than others.

Get the best.. Siemens FS140
 
Yes! I’m in the midst of installing a Sol-Ark 15k and have been considering adding a 200A manual transfer switch for the same reason. Just came back to this forum to see if anyone else had done this, so, thanks for this post. Would you provide more info about the switch? Source? Manufacturer? Model? Why you chose this particular switch? Thx.
I used the cheapest manual transfer switch I could find. This is a GE i believe. I paid around $650 for it.
 

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I have an ATS also that switches my gen and disconnects the grid. The manual TS is for inverter failure so I can bypass the inverter and go 100% on grid. Also I know Generac is an odd dog and doesn’t play well with anything other than Generac.
 
I like that kind of installation. Even though Sol-Ark says the 15K does not need a transfer switch I feel a lot better knowing one is there just in case.
BTW make sure you add an Eaton Surge Protector onto your Mains AC lines. I did not put one in at first and as luck would have it within 3 months a bolt of lightning struck the power line about 100 yards from my house. It scared the bejesus out of us but I was extremely lucky it did not blow up the Inverter.
Why does Sol-Ark say a transfer switch is not needed? Will most faults with the 15k model still allow grid power to work?
 
Why does Sol-Ark say a transfer switch is not needed? Will most faults with the 15k model still allow grid power to work?
As a safety measure if the Sol Ark malfunctions it kills power to everything. I think all AIO’s do this and it makes sense if you think about it. Bypass is a necessity IMO.
 
As a safety measure if the Sol Ark malfunctions it kills power to everything. I think all AIO’s do this and it makes sense if you think about it. Bypass is a necessity IMO.
I'll have to get one added at some point since I don't have one. But I'm still curious why sol-ark says it's not needed?
 
Why does Sol-Ark say a transfer switch is not needed? Will most faults with the 15k model still allow grid power to work?
If something is broken and you need to repair it you still want power. Also... when something is broken in a unit... best practice is to take it offline. A manual transfer mechanism gives you an easy way to do that.
 
I'll have to get one added at some point since I don't have one. But I'm still curious why sol-ark says it's not needed?
Everyone’s idea of a necessity is different. I want a way to power my loads in the event of a failure. It’s obviously going to take some time to diagnose and repair if it happens. I prefer working with the lights on.
 
Interlocked "Generator" breaker is going to be one of the easiest and cheapest ways.
I've used it a number of times since installing inverter.


I balked at paying $50 (street price around half of MSRP) or so for a piece of sheet metal, but that and a 2-pole breaker mounted adjacent to main breaker in loads panel gives a UL listed way to select between two sources.
For most panels, the interlock is not present when bezel is removed, so no protection against turning on both breakers and having inverter (or generator) output try to fight the grid.

Although there are 200A QO branch breakers, those don't appear compatible with the interlock because handles are centered, not on one side where interlock could block them.


Up to 125A would work. (Remember, MSRP is fantasy not reality. So long as you don't buy at Grangers.)


I just realized a Lock Out or clamp device (about $10) could be manually applied during such work, which I'm now thinking would be a good idea (knowing myself as I do.)

 
Why does Sol-Ark say a transfer switch is not needed? Will most faults with the 15k model still allow grid power to work?
Grid power will still pass through if you have a typical fault but certain faults will stop the Grid power from passing through.
The second issue is if you have to send the Inverter back to Sol-Ark for repair or you want to move the Inverter then your going to want to be able to do this without plunging your house into darkness.
 
Although there are 200A QO branch breakers, those don't appear compatible with the interlock because handles are centered, not on one side where interlock could block them.
Doh... that screws up my plan. I thought I had seen two 200A QO breakers interlocked in the Digest before. Seems odd that they wouldn't have the base model cover both poles of a small disconnect and half of the large disconnect at a minimum... for $50!
 
I didn't say it couldn't be modified to reach handle in 2nd position ...
Just wouldn't be a UL listed thing.

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