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diy solar

Solar panel problem?

Deltron

New Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2021
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Hello,

I have been trying to solve my system issues that I have been having in my van and am hoping you guys could offer some advice.

I have 3 100 watt solar panels connected in parallel with (3 to1) connectors and one fuse up on my roof between the panels and the charge controller.

My issue is that I am producing voltage but Apperently no amps. I have tested that volts are entering my solar charge controller and also going to the battery all at the solar charge controller and they are present. This system has functioned without problems for three years now until now. I checked the connections and nothing has vibrated loose as far as I can tell. at first I thought it was my charge controller and troubleshot that and ended up replacing it just Incase and still no luck. The new controller I set it up, it connected and functioned and read that the solar array was hooked up but again only volts and no amps, after multiple resets amperage went through and it functioned for a couple of days and now has stopped working and shows only volts and no amps even in direct light.

should I get back up on the roof and test each panel individually for amperage? could I have a blown diode? I know this one is a silly question but, if my fuse between the panels and solar charge controller is blown would volts go through and amps would not? I’m assuming that neither voltage or amperage would flow, I just want to know if that fuse needs to also be inspected closer. Any help would be appreciated.
 
A 12v 20w auto bulb with alligator clips is good for testing your power from pv. Start on the CC side of the fuse as that is probably the problem.
It is not the diodes.
In 3 years a insulating layer may have built up between connections, just clean. it is best to find where first with the test globe.
 
Poor connection is the most likely. I prefer a meter to test. You can start by testing from inside the van, do a short circuit test and see what you get. Put the van in a sunny spot. See if you get a comparable reading to what you are used to seeing. If not, time to go up on the roof and find the bad connection or panel.
 
have 3 100 watt solar panels connected in parallel
Are these rigid frame glass face or flexible panel?
If the panels are flexible then there is a good chance one or more has failed. Testing each panel and connection is needed.

Mike
 
1st what voltage are you getting into charge controller? what voltage out? 12v battery? what kind of battery? are you measuring amps with a meter?
 
1st what voltage are you getting into charge controller? what voltage out? 12v battery? what kind of battery? are you measuring amps with a meter?
The charge controller is receiving 13.8 volts last time I tested it but I have seen it go up to 17 while still maintaining 0 amps. During the same test The battery port on the controller was showing 13.18 volts. My battery is a 100 amp hour lifepo4. I talked to the battery maker and the bms readings all look normal, and I have been able to charge it with my car.

yes I am using a meter I have, but the amp reading is being shown by my mt50, I have an epever tracer bn solar charge controller.

here are two photos of when it was last working, and then one photo when it stopped and my battery had to be recharged with my car, you can see it states 14.8 volts and no amps.

I will try to get on the van roof tomorrow and test each panel individually with my meter and the mc4 connectors.
 

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Its possible that you charge controller needs more than14.8v before it starts charging.
Its possible that with a battery voltage of 13.7v, the controller thinks your battery is full and stops pulling amps.

Do you know what your charge controllers voltage settings?
 
Are these rigid frame glass face or flexible panel?
If the panels are flexible then there is a good chance one or more has failed. Testing each panel and connection is needed.

Mike
I believe they are rigid.
 
Its possible that you charge controller needs more than14.8v before it starts charging.
Its possible that with a battery voltage of 13.7v, the controller thinks your battery is full and stops pulling amps.

Do you know what your charge controllers voltage settings?
These are my current settings.

Battery: 100 ah
Rated voltage: 12v
Temp comp. coefficient: 0mv/C/2v
Over voltage disconnect: 14.5v
Charge limit: 14.4v
Over voltage reconnect: 14.4v
Equalize charging voltage: 14.3v
Boost charging voltage: 14.3v
Float charge: 13.6v
Boost reconnect: 13.3v
Low volt reconnect: 12v
Under volt reconnect: 12.2v
Under volt warning: 11.5v
Low volt disconnect: 11v
Discharge limit: 10.5v
Equalize time: 0
Boost duration: 180 min
 
Hello,

I have been trying to solve my system issues that I have been having in my van and am hoping you guys could offer some advice.

I have 3 100 watt solar panels connected in parallel with (3 to1) connectors and one fuse up on my roof between the panels and the charge controller.

My issue is that I am producing voltage but Apperently no amps. I have tested that volts are entering my solar charge controller and also going to the battery all at the solar charge controller and they are present. This system has functioned without problems for three years now until now. I checked the connections and nothing has vibrated loose as far as I can tell. at first I thought it was my charge controller and troubleshot that and ended up replacing it just Incase and still no luck. The new controller I set it up, it connected and functioned and read that the solar array was hooked up but again only volts and no amps, after multiple resets amperage went through and it functioned for a couple of days and now has stopped working and shows only volts and no amps even in direct light.

should I get back up on the roof and test each panel individually for amperage? could I have a blown diode? I know this one is a silly question but, if my fuse between the panels and solar charge controller is blown would volts go through and amps would not? I’m assuming that neither voltage or amperage would flow, I just want to know if that fuse needs to also be inspected closer. Any help would be appreciated.
Basically, the charge controller is reading open circuit voltage, tries drawing some amps and nothing is there.

Unhook leads from charge controller, load the circuit down with a light bulb as mentioned, record the voltage. If voltage drops out, then you move on to next step.

Separate your panel electrical connections, next load each one with a light bulb as mentioned and record the voltage. If one panel drops voltage, then it has failed.

If all panels pass, then it is the 3 to 1 or other electrical connection or the wires to the CC itself. Each item can be tested, always measure the voltage with the circuit loaded.
 
in all the pictures... PV input above 15v you show current and below you don't.. what is keeping you panels under 15v
 
in all the pictures... PV input above 15v you show current and below you don't.. what is keeping you panels under 15v
2 of the photos are when it works, the center one it is not working.

This is a case of resistance in the circuit or a bad panel bringing the others down. This will bring the voltage down.
 
Its possible that you charge controller needs more than14.8v before it starts charging.
Its possible that with a battery voltage of 13.7v, the controller thinks your battery is full and stops pulling amps.

Do you know what your charge controllers voltage settings?
I can tell you on a 20 amp Rich Solar MPPT Charger it will do a big nothing under 17-18 PV volts if used with 12v batteries.
I think on my Renogy 20 amp MPPT charger on a 24v battery it needs over 32-34 volts.
 
Thank you for the replies everyone, I will try to run some of these tests tomorrow. Hopefully get to the source of this problem.
 
Well out of no where with nothing changing or being touched it decided to start working. Today is full cloud cover and a costal fog and it’s been literally 2 weeks since the last time it charged. It has done stuff like this before just works when it wants to I swear, I’m assuming it will stop working any moment now. I’ll leave it be for now and get what charge i can, hopefully the sun is out tomorrow and I can run the tests if it’s not working by then.
 

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Update four hours later, still going. But I expect it to stop, I’m not getting my hopes up again that it fixed itself somehow because this situation happened before. I’m sure if I use the battery and go under boost reconnect values it won’t charge again. It doing this is why I was thinking that maybe the panels where ok and it’s a problem between the charge controller and battery.
 

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Update four hours later, still going. But I expect it to stop, I’m not getting my hopes up again that it fixed itself somehow because this situation happened before. I’m sure if I use the battery and go under boost reconnect values it won’t charge again. It doing this is why I was thinking that maybe the panels where ok and it’s a problem between the charge controller and battery.
if it is on the battery side then solar voltage would be open circuit voltage.. I would say low battery caused more current on the panel side which causes the fault
 
What VOC are those panels? (if you can post the label)
What Charge Controller is it?
I believe the voc is 22.3v unless I’m looking at the wrong panels on the renogy website. And the controller is an epever tracer bn with mt50. I had an epever tracer an model a month ago when this started happening.
 
if it is on the battery side then solar voltage would be open circuit voltage.. I would say low battery caused more current on the panel side which causes the fault
I am not sure because the battery had been charged up with my car before to 90 percent multiple times and used down to under 50 percent (lifepo4) and the controller wouldn’t start to charge.
 
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