diy solar

diy solar

Solar powered Pool Pump

On a side note, for anyone who is installing new pool equipment, it's well worth it to add a small "hut" around your pump and filter. I work on a lot of old pools, and the some of the ones that protect the equipment from the weather and sun have been in place since the '70s (one pool was built in the 50's, and still has the original filter and pump, only the motor has been replaced once). Uncovered equipment generally needs to be replaced about every decade, if you're lucky.

At a minimum, a roof to protect form direct sun and rain; and if you really want to have your stuff last, it can be enclosed in a small shed. Don't keep your chemicals in that "hut" either, chlorine and acids will gass off and viciously corrode anything nearby.
 
On a side note, for anyone who is installing new pool equipment, it's well worth it to add a small "hut" around your pump and filter. I work on a lot of old pools, and the some of the ones that protect the equipment from the weather and sun have been in place since the '70s (one pool was built in the 50's, and still has the original filter and pump, only the motor has been replaced once). Uncovered equipment generally needs to be replaced about every decade, if you're lucky.

At a minimum, a roof to protect form direct sun and rain; and if you really want to have your stuff last, it can be enclosed in a small shed. Don't keep your chemicals in that "hut" either, chlorine and acids will gass off and viciously corrode anything nearby.
I will second that post. It seems like common sense but many folks do not cover pool equipment. Some who do have the hut will put the chemicals in the hut along with pool toys. (n)
 
I got the pump connected and running on 4 panels. I'm uncertain right now if my panels are running well. I may wire up 6 in parallel as the wall where I have my panels is quite shaded. I was impressed though. If there is any power, the pump will try to run. It may be just a trickle but it will run. In full sun it worked great, not as powerful as my AC pump, but I think I don't have enough PV power going into it at the moment.

Here is a video of it.
 
I got the pump connected and running on 4 panels. I'm uncertain right now if my panels are running well. I may wire up 6 in parallel as the wall where I have my panels is quite shaded. I was impressed though. If there is any power, the pump will try to run. It may be just a trickle but it will run. In full sun it worked great, not as powerful as my AC pump, but I think I don't have enough PV power going into it at the moment.

Here is a video of it.
Just seeing all that poison ivy makes me itchy.
 
One of the things I always see is people replacing pumps all the time and still using a sand filter -- I changed over to a DE filter about 10 yrs ago and cut my pump run time in half -- DE filters about 6-10 times smaller particles -- my pool is 35k in Baton Rouge --- My cycle time is 6 hrs and my pool turns over around 4 times
 
One of the things I always see is people replacing pumps all the time and still using a sand filter -- I changed over to a DE filter about 10 yrs ago and cut my pump run time in half -- DE filters about 6-10 times smaller particles -- my pool is 35k in Baton Rouge --- My cycle time is 6 hrs and my pool turns over around 4 times
It's hard to convince someone who has had the same sand filter for 20 years, and replaced the sand a dozen times, that a new-fangled DE filter is worth the investment up front. I always hear "well the sand still works", yeah, I guess it does, but like you said, the DE filter is MUCH more efficient, you can save power on runtime (most people cut back from 8-10 hours of running sand or cartridge, to 4-6 on DE), and the pool is substantially more clear with a DE rather than a sand.

Don't even get me started about how much easier it is to backwash a DE vs sand, sand never really gets clean, but you can clean the DE grids back to new in just a few minutes. IDK why sand or cartridge filters are even still a thing. I guess when you (general you, not specific to anyone here) pay someone else to do it, why get better equipment, right? ?
 
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We have friends that have Sand and Cartridge Filters , they say how clear their pool is -- that is until they come over to our house
The water has a different look --- I want to say glossier (how can water shine more) more High Definition -- LOL
 
It was cheaper for me to do a sand filter, and I just got one severely oversized for my pool. 3k gallon pool, 27 in sand filter, largest I could get from Hayward for my 1.5 in pipes. Only had to backwash twice in the summer and water came out clear after only a few seconds. But I believe you on the DE filter, it make sense, it filters better.

I'm going to add more panels to the pump. Being new to solar I was a bit surprised how bright the sun has to be to get full power. We also unfortunately have lots of shade in our yard, so only 3 hours of full sun. The pump will try to run on the littlest solar though. Completely overcast day and it was trying to pump water on only 2 panels, will use 6 330 w panels.
 
If you have a chlorinator or something that requires constant flow I'm not sure I recommend this route. My panels are used and only get ~ 200 watts a piece. Even with 6 panels I was only able to get the pump to push 400 watts, not nearly enough. I keep getting low flow errors.

I think I should have just bought a 1hp 110v pool pump and run that off my LV2424 instead, if I get it straightened out I'll let people on here know.
 
As an aside, my DE filter is probably as old as the original pool installation, likely forty years or so. About 12 years ago I replaced all of the filter pads and the stand. It works perfectly. I have to break it down and hose it all out about twice a year. Otherwise just a backflush and recharge with DE keeps the pressure within spec and the water sparkling.

A pool tech asked me if I had "No More Problems". I said no, but I sure would love to have no more problems. He said, no, the additive NO MORE PROBLEMS. Well gee, I'm not sure what's in that stuff (bromine?), but about 3oz once a week with a gallon or two of liquid pool chlor and a floater keeps it sparkling. Yeah, it's spendy - about $60 a gallon, but lasts all season. I will generally charge with cyanuric acid once a year as well (chlorine stabilizer)

I really need to drain and refill - probly over 2000ppm tds, but gee, we have a water shortage here. :confused:
 
Otherwise just a backflush and recharge with DE keeps the pressure within spec and the water sparkling.

Backflush works for you?

I have Anderson pump, DE filter, backflush canister, original from 30+ years ago.
I try the backflush valve, and little water flows before backflush bag is plugged so no water goes through. Most DE remains in the filter tank and on the grids.

Without backflushing, I disassemble and clean grids a couple times per year.
 
Backflush goes out to the main sewer drain, clears off some accumulated debris from the grid, then recharge. Lowers tank pressure back to 8-10psi. A lot does remain, and after several flushes it has to be disassembled and the cakes cleared out.

Winter storms really dumps a lot of debris in, so a full clean out is needed after that.

Overall it is pretty easy going. But thirty years of it I’m really over it. Kids are grown and gone, I toy with converting it to a koi pond. Lol

Liquid chlorine went from $6 to $10 a gallon over the pandemic. Grrr.
 
Backflush works for you?

I have Anderson pump, DE filter, backflush canister,
Unless you are legally required to have one of those canisters, ditch it. I've NEVER seen one that actually worked well. They just seem to mix all the garbage up with the DE. Plus, the DE and algae is okay for the lawn.

I've been to well over 2k pools, and only one or two of the people had a "working" DE canister, they are just not very effective.
original from 30+ years ago.
I try the backflush valve, and little water flows before backflush bag is plugged so no water goes through. Most DE remains in the filter tank and on the grids.
If and when you ditch the DE recycling bag, try backwash for about 45 seconds, rinse for 3 sec, filter for 1 minute, and repeat 3 or 4 times until the filter is empty. Sometimes reversing the flow while backwashing can help break up any clumps of DE and get it out much easier.
Without backflushing, I disassemble and clean grids a couple times per year.
You should only have to disassemble and clean the grids when you close the pool, or otherwise MAYBE once a year, if you live in warm weather. Let the filter work FOR you, DE is supposed to be low maintenance.

Backwash and recharge once every month or two to keep the DE from impacting on the grids, and you shouldn't really ever have to open the tank up. That canister is making your life much harder than it needs to be. ?
 
OK, I think the backflush bag/canister was supposed to be an innovation that saved water by recirculating it.
So I should just replumb to a discharge. To test concept/performance, just remove lid from canister and plug outlet, let it overflow.

Doesn't this cause discharge of some unknown quantity of DE? Do you feed in a guesstimate amount of replacement?


I've imagined using a chlorine generator. I see those, but they involve running salt in the water. I don't want to end up discharging (or leaking) brine into the garden. What I had in mind was NaCl + electricity --> Na + Cl (without doing that in water.) Of course, chlorine by itself in water dissipates faster. I've been using dry powder. A 50 lb bucket or two, now somewhere around $300 each? lasts the season.

 
Your filter spec should have a recommended amount of DE to charge. IIRC mine is about 4-5lbs. I just add about 5 coffee cans to a bucket, add water, and pour thru the skimmer.

My biggest headache right now is a leaking inlet line - on hard vacuum it does pull quit a bit of air. I imagine it leaks too. Probably cracked at the skimmer junction...what a giant PITA.

I have some interest in the solar powered DC pump - the horse and a half on 240 is probly 10 or 12 amps. I've replaced the pump once in thirty years - not bad. The pool remodel with new plaster and tile was about ten thousand - I'll bet it's a lot more now. They showed up with a trailer-mounted pressure washer with 40,000psi - blasted the plaster right off the gunnite and hauled it out in wheelbarrows. Amazing.

Lots of folks in the neighborhood filling them in. They no longer add resale value to a home - lots of young families don't want them - the leading cause of death in youngsters in our county is pool drownings.

One place they had dirt dumped in their driveway and paid their kid and his buddies to wheelbarrow it into the backyard and fill in the pool. Unbeknownst to them you have to jackhammer out the bottom or they don't drain. When winter came it floated up and flooded their house. Dear lord. You have to pull a permit, and it has to be disclosed on resale, unless you completely remove all of the concrete, fill, and compact. Most just do a fill-in and call it good. You can't build over that, but it stays down. A complete removal costs nearly as much as a new pool.
 
One place they had dirt dumped in their driveway and paid their kid and his buddies to wheelbarrow it into the backyard and fill in the pool. Unbeknownst to them you have to jackhammer out the bottom or they don't drain. When winter came it floated up and flooded their house. Dear lord. You have to pull a permit, and it has to be disclosed on resale, unless you completely remove all of the concrete, fill, and compact. Most just do a fill-in and call it good. You can't build over that, but it stays down. A complete removal costs nearly as much as a new pool.
How about putting a greenhouse over your own reservoir? Build a teenie pier, raise? fish & ?vegies.
I'll send you a couple Ice Fishing Poles. ?
 
Mine takes 10 scoops, I think that's 10 lbs. About 32 square feet of grid if I remember, and 25,000 gallon pool.

Mine was sucking a lot of air, also water level dropped several inches during 8 hours operation. Pump off, no fast water loss.
PVC pipe joints around the property have pulled apart, primarily a shallow sprinkler. Couple of deeper supply pipes.
Pool equipment is about 8' from concrete walkway around pool. Likely joints under the concrete have failed, but possibly under just dirt.

I naturally theorized that sucking air was bad joints on suction side, and loss of water was bad joints on discharge side.
Theory doesn't always hold water.
I cut pipes and spliced in above-ground discharge lines. To my surprise, water level went down while pumping just the same.
I then cut an spliced suction line to pool (haven't done same to spa.)
That has solved the water loss problem.

strainer redirect IMG_2273.jpg inlet pipe IMG_2272.jpg

I had replaced single-speed motor with 2-speed. Two issues; low speed was insufficient as DE filter became plugged and backpressure increased, and powering a suction-side pool cleaner it ate bearings (cavitation?)
I now have a VFD and 3-phase motor. I don't use the suction side cleaner. I originally had pressure side cleaner, but with pressure turned up enough to operate it burst flexible hoses. Now I use manual vacuum head weekly.
 
OK, I think the backflush bag/canister was supposed to be an innovation that saved water by recirculating it.
That's exactly what it was supposed to be. Didn't work very well though.
So I should just replumb to a discharge.
That's what I would do, yes.
To test concept/performance, just remove lid from canister and plug outlet, let it overflow.
Yep.
Doesn't this cause discharge of some unknown quantity of DE? Do you feed in a guesstimate amount of replacement?
Ideally, you want to dump ALL the old DE. A properly maintained (backwashed every 30 to 60 days, and when the pressure rises 10+lbs, as well as a yearly disassembly and cleaning) DE filter should dump most, if not all of the filter medium. Replace with the same amount as you originally charged with. A little extra won't hurt anything.

Also, hang on to that old brass Anthony pump. Those are, hands down, the best pumps ever made.
 
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