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diy solar

Solar Trailer Recommendations

bblake2021

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Jun 11, 2021
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13
I am in the process of converting a 5x10 cargo trailer to live in for 3-4 months. My plan is to make it capable of both summer and winter use in the states of Arizona and Colorado. I will be copying the DIY solar trailer to some extent. This is what I am trying to decide between components.



Solar panels

4x Rich Solar 200W 24V Mono Panels (or if anyone knows of anything better with similar dimensions)

or

6x Renogy Eclipse 100W 12V sunpower panels (may possibly add a panel or two to my pickup camper if needed later) -leaning toward these more efficient and a little lighter weight but only 600 vs 800w



All-in-one

MPP HYBRID LV6048 6kW Split Phase 120V/240V- 2 x 80MPPT Inputs (8Kw Solar) parallelable to 18kw

https://watts247.com/product/hybrid-lv6048-split-phase-120v-240v/?wpam_id=3



Battery Bank

I would like to keep it small to save on space and weight. I was thinking I might be able to get away with 2x Battleborn 12v 100Ah heated batteries (might need 4x since the all-in-one says 48v?)

or

some type of DIY tesla battery



I went with the MPP HYBRID LV6048 because I want to have the ability to charge electric vehicles in the future with a larger array.



There are certain things that I would like to be able to power occasionally using only the 6-800w array on the top of the trailer if possible.

-Small air conditioner- I’ll probably put this on a separate inverter to run at night unless it makes sense to just run the LV6048 24/7

(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G1VM7R7/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A38F1REGZFNN6L&psc=1)

-Small countertop icemaker

-Electric chainsaw and other electric tools (may have to do this connected to larger array or just use agenerator)

-12v RV fan (up to 2.7a)

-4-6x LED Exterior/interior lights 12v 3.5w 245mA ea

-Possibly a small rv type water pump in the future

-other miscellaneous home appliances (laptop, TV, cell phone, etc.)



I have a 3,850w (4,850w peak) generator as a backup for everything. I am new to solar and this will be my first build experience with it so forgive my ignorance. One big question I’m grappling with is the pros and cons of going 12v vs. 24v vs. 48v for a trailer this size and intended applications. Also with LV6048 will I be able to connect 12v appliances and have both 120v and 240v inputs and outputs?
 
Welcome to the forum.

I am in the process of converting a 5x10 cargo trailer to live in for 3-4 months. My plan is to make it capable of both summer and winter use in the states of Arizona and Colorado. I will be copying the DIY solar trailer to some extent. This is what I am trying to decide between components.



Solar panels

4x Rich Solar 200W 24V Mono Panels (or if anyone knows of anything better with similar dimensions)

or

6x Renogy Eclipse 100W 12V sunpower panels (may possibly add a panel or two to my pickup camper if needed later) -leaning toward these more efficient and a little lighter weight but only 600 vs 800w

more is better.

All-in-one

MPP HYBRID LV6048 6kW Split Phase 120V/240V- 2 x 80MPPT Inputs (8Kw Solar) parallelable to 18kw

https://watts247.com/product/hybrid-lv6048-split-phase-120v-240v/?wpam_id=3

Bad idea. This is a massive inverter that will consume 100W just being turned on and supplying no loads... that's 2.4kWh of wasted energy daily.

Battery Bank

I would like to keep it small to save on space and weight. I was thinking I might be able to get away with 2x Battleborn 12v 100Ah heated batteries (might need 4x since the all-in-one says 48v?)

or

some type of DIY tesla battery



I went with the MPP HYBRID LV6048 because I want to have the ability to charge electric vehicles in the future with a larger array.

And that choice means that just having the unit on and supplying no loads nearly exceeds the cost of your very expensive batteries... 2 * 12.8 * 100 = 2.56kWh.

And yep. Need 4 for 48V.

There are certain things that I would like to be able to power occasionally using only the 6-800w array on the top of the trailer if possible.

-Small air conditioner- I’ll probably put this on a separate inverter to run at night unless it makes sense to just run the LV6048 24/7

It does not make sense.

(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G1VM7R7/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_3?smid=A38F1REGZFNN6L&psc=1)

-Small countertop icemaker

-Electric chainsaw and other electric tools (may have to do this connected to larger array or just use agenerator)

-12v RV fan (up to 2.7a)

-4-6x LED Exterior/interior lights 12v 3.5w 245mA ea

-Possibly a small rv type water pump in the future

-other miscellaneous home appliances (laptop, TV, cell phone, etc.)

I have a 3,850w (4,850w peak) generator as a backup for everything. I am new to solar and this will be my first build experience with it so forgive my ignorance. One big question I’m grappling with is the pros and cons of going 12v vs. 24v vs. 48v for a trailer this size and intended applications. Also with LV6048 will I be able to connect 12v appliances and have both 120v and 240v inputs and outputs?

The LV6048 only supplies 120/240V split phase output. You will be able to pull 48V from your battery, but if you want 24V or 12V, you'll need a converter.
 
Welcome to the forum.



more is better.



Bad idea. This is a massive inverter that will consume 100W just being turned on and supplying no loads... that's 2.4kWh of wasted energy daily.



And that choice means that just having the unit on and supplying no loads nearly exceeds the cost of your very expensive batteries... 2 * 12.8 * 100 = 2.56kWh.

And yep. Need 4 for 48V.



It does not make sense.



The LV6048 only supplies 120/240V split phase output. You will be able to pull 48V from your battery, but if you want 24V or 12V, you'll need a converter.

Thank you for the reply! Really appreciate the input. I'm going to opt for a smaller system and forgo the EV charging capability.

I'm still kinda torn on the solar panels. From what I have gathered, the Renogy eclipse panels are slightly more efficient (might be better in places like colorado) but I'll only get 600w total vs. 800w with the Rich solar panels. Considering the limited space of the roof of a cargo trailer, am I better off going with higher efficiency or higher wattage?

I think I also may have found a better all-in-one for this application: //watts247.com/product/pip-2724lv-mr/ I believe this model only consumes 2W for standby power and it has 120v outlets built-in.

As far as battery banks go, I've been looking at a Tesla 5.6kWh battery module: https://stealthev.com/product/tesla-6-2-kwh-module-from-90kwh-pack/ Are there any advantages/disadvantages/special considerations to using an EV battery pack over using something like a SOK 24v 100Ah battery (https://www.sokbattery.com/products/sok-24v-100ah-lifepo4-battery) or 2x Battleborn 12V 100Ah batteries?
 
"Higher efficiency" is usually just a bunch of market fluff. Buy the most wattage you can fit on your roof.

Standby power is the power drain with the unit "powered off" and unable to supply 120VAC output. It is still active and permits operation of the MPPT. It's idle burn is likely around 50W. MPP Solar and Growatt are notorious for high idle draw. That's part of the compromise when paying substantially less than the higher quality brands.

50W * 24h = 1200Wh or 48% of your total battery capacity, i.e., just having the unit turned on have with 120VAC available but not in use means you will use 38% of your 2X BB battery capacity.

That unit also has a very low MPPT PV input voltage. It's sufficient for 24V, but panel configuration (series vs. parallel vs. a combination) will be limited.

Have you established what you actually need? Link #1 in my signature takes you to a downloadable spreadsheet that allows you to list the items you want to power, their wattage and the # of hours/day you wish to run them. From that, you can actually size a system. Given that this will be your "home" for 3-4 months, the more planning you do will likely contribute substantially to a reduction in misery.
 
You really need to do some sort of power audit Like snoobler said. I think its going to be much higher than you think.

A lot of people build a system like you’re saying and ask why after a few days of running, the batteries No longer recharge. Most of the time, these people tried to run too much off their battery bank and killed the batteries. Never got enough of a charge to replace what was used. If you do not plan Air conditoning the right way, you will use more power than your panels can replace.

A bit of planning will go a long way, which is much better than put as much solar on the roof as you can and then after spending thousands of dollars, attach your loads to it and hope for the best.
 
When folks are ‘new’ to anything they buy stuff with nice marketing, a “pro” image, and lower pricing. But they spend more than they need to and often get less of what they really need.
imho all-in-ones fit that perfectly.

What you need is to know what the demand is going to be and have something that works. Separate components imho let you cherry-pick the best quality at “x” pricepoint and get either exactly or more for your money. Often ‘better’ equipment is neither better nor more value if you will never be exposed to the situation that makes the ‘better’ beneficial.

Will has several videos building decent small systems that are affordable and often use excellent lower-priced equipment. While the best brands probably won’t disappoint performance- and longevity-wise, often you can incorporate value-priced products and do well. Caveat Emptor most low-priced products are not a good value.

Will also has some all-in-one videos with costs and commentary.

I’d recommend doing a little more research and figure out if 48V or 12V or whatever is going to actually supply the need. 12v has a lot of support with locally obtainable products, 24V much less so, and 48V basically guarantees waiting for something to be shipped.
48V is not necessarily “more power” just higher voltage and potentially some higher cost equipment.

“Efficiency” is relative term. 3% potential performance “improvement” at 20-75% higher price when, for example, one more standard Rich or WindyNation 100W panel for $85 is 25% more wattage at $200 less overall doesn’t make sense to me.

Thesere my thoughts while reading your thread.
 
I have a 7 x 14 cargo -> trailer conversion - running 100% on solar 24/7 in spring/summer sun even with 9000BTU mini-split running 24/7
- I'd go heat-pump!! Mini-split or wall unit but efficient heat-pump all the way.
- I've got 4 x 300w panels (flat) on top. At 7 x 14 I can appreciate 5 x 10 is a smaller space but I'd go with as much as you can fit - e.g. 4 x 200w for sure. Maybe install a plug so you could deploy a couple of more out on the ground in the future - more is better, especially in rain/clouds/winter.
- I'm using the MPP Solar PIP 3048LV (48vdc model / 3000w inverter) and its sized 'well' for 9000BTU Mini-split + 5gal hot water heater + all the rest (pump, lights, TV etc). *I'm guessing the 2424LV model might work for you - https://store.santansolar.com/product/mpp-hybrid-inverter-lv2424-msd-120v-24v/ - with 24v battery + 2000w @ 120v inverter would work OK for you.
- My extrapolations show you need at least a 2.5kwh of battery-power / day to run thru the night. At 80% DOD that would be a 3.1kwh battery - e.g. 150ah @ 24v. So you'd need 2 x 150ah 12v batteries (or more).
 
"Higher efficiency" is usually just a bunch of market fluff. Buy the most wattage you can fit on your roof.

Standby power is the power drain with the unit "powered off" and unable to supply 120VAC output.

My GW3000 24V uses .009a with the inverter off. I don't understand where the 50w figure comes from other than if the inverter is switched on (I installed a remote switch too) then it draws the 50w in standby mode. But that is only if the inverter is switched on.

It is still active and permits operation of the MPPT. It's idle burn is likely around 50W. MPP Solar and Growatt are notorious for high idle draw. That's part of the compromise when paying substantially less than the higher quality brands.

Only if the inverter is turned on, Victron uses around 30w in standby with the inverter on, I looked that up long ago.

50W * 24h = 1200Wh or 48% of your total battery capacity, i.e., just having the unit turned on have with 120VAC available but not in use means you will use 38% of your 2X BB battery capacity.
I agree with this but that is if the inverter is turned on. Installing a remote switch in a convenient place eliminates this standby draw. One could install multiple switches if desired. There is no need for having the inverter on for lighting, fans, furnace or running a DC water pump in an RV.

That unit also has a very low MPPT PV input voltage. It's sufficient for 24V, but panel configuration (series vs. parallel vs. a combination) will be limited.

The LV6048 has PV input at 145v at 80a. That's almost 12K watts of input. On a 5x10 trailer? He will be limited by the roof size on the trailer, my opinion is that he will be underpaneled simply due to available space. I don't think the 145v will be the limiting factor. The Rich Solar panels are 37.6 OCV, he would be 2S2P and the Renogy are 21.2 OCV. Those could all be in series.

Have you established what you actually need? Link #1 in my signature takes you to a downloadable spreadsheet that allows you to list the items you want to power, their wattage and the # of hours/day you wish to run them. From that, you can actually size a system. Given that this will be your "home" for 3-4 months, the more planning you do will likely contribute substantially to a reduction in misery.
He will need the genny to run the small AC for any length of time.
 
Thank you for the reply! Really appreciate the input. I'm going to opt for a smaller system and forgo the EV charging capability.

I'm still kinda torn on the solar panels. From what I have gathered, the Renogy eclipse panels are slightly more efficient (might be better in places like colorado) but I'll only get 600w total vs. 800w with the Rich solar panels. Considering the limited space of the roof of a cargo trailer, am I better off going with higher efficiency or higher wattage?

I think I also may have found a better all-in-one for this application: //watts247.com/product/pip-2724lv-mr/ I believe this model only consumes 2W for standby power and it has 120v outlets built-in.

Limited MPPT voltage input and low amps to boot. (Max 25A / 24V MPPT solar controller (600W) + Grid/Generator Charger)

You will be very limited on panel choices and limited to 600W of solar.

This is what I have in my truck camper and purchased it from Ian. https://watts247.com/product/spf-3000tl-lvm-24p/

I am confused about your original post as you linked the LV6048 Split Phase which is 120/240V capable. This is 2 units put in parallel, not one, that is how you get 240V. Do you need 240V?

As far as battery banks go, I've been looking at a Tesla 5.6kWh battery module: https://stealthev.com/product/tesla-6-2-kwh-module-from-90kwh-pack/ Are there any advantages/disadvantages/special considerations to using an EV battery pack over using something like a SOK 24v 100Ah battery (https://www.sokbattery.com/products/sok-24v-100ah-lifepo4-battery) or 2x Battleborn 12V 100Ah batteries?
I built my own 24V 280Ah battery from cells. With BMS and cells, I have about $1100 USD in it with shipping costs.
 
Limited MPPT voltage input and low amps to boot. (Max 25A / 24V MPPT solar controller (600W) + Grid/Generator Charger)

You will be very limited on panel choices and limited to 600W of solar.

This is what I have in my truck camper and purchased it from Ian. https://watts247.com/product/spf-3000tl-lvm-24p/

I am confused about your original post as you linked the LV6048 Split Phase which is 120/240V capable. This is 2 units put in parallel, not one, that is how you get 240V. Do you need 240V?


I built my own 24V 280Ah battery from cells. With BMS and cells, I have about $1100 USD in it with shipping costs.

Looks like I'll probably have to go with the Growatt spf 3000tl-lvm or MPP LV2424 Hybrid to support my 800w worth of panels. Really wish the MPP PIP 2724LV-MR would cut it, seems perfect for my application. I've been torn on building my own battery from cells. I'm leaning toward something like the https://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/24v-200ah-preferred-lifepo4-lithium-battery-pack
or https://theinverterstore.com/product/lithium-battery-24v-300amp-lifepo4/ but I also think it might be a good idea to get something with a heating element if I were to park the trailer in cold climates https://pacificsunsystems.com/catal...lifep04-lithium-battery-with-heating-element/ With your DIY battery, do you have any type of cold weather protection for it?
 
Looks like I'll probably have to go with the Growatt spf 3000tl-lvm or MPP LV2424 Hybrid to support my 800w worth of panels. Really wish the MPP PIP 2724LV-MR would cut it, seems perfect for my application. I've been torn on building my own battery from cells. I'm leaning toward something like the https://www.electriccarpartscompany.com/24v-200ah-preferred-lifepo4-lithium-battery-pack
or https://theinverterstore.com/product/lithium-battery-24v-300amp-lifepo4/ but I also think it might be a good idea to get something with a heating element if I were to park the trailer in cold climates https://pacificsunsystems.com/catal...lifep04-lithium-battery-with-heating-element/ With your DIY battery, do you have any type of cold weather protection for it?
Yes, a 200w heating element which is temp controlled. Heating element is mounted under aluminum pan which the cells sit on.
 
Yes, a 200w heating element which is temp controlled. Heating element is mounted under aluminum pan which the cells sit on.
I used 3 of these for heat - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GW8ZX7X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and Neoprene Rubber on top as bump/cushion - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G3J6294/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and then the 14s88p packs on top of that. The whole thing is enclosed so the heating pads are adequate to maintain battery temp within safe operating range when the trailer is below freezing.

The area on top of the cabinets is 90" long by 14"? inches wide by 6-8 inches tall (curve of the trailer). Packs secured with zip-ties - you can see the bottom of black zip ties on the roof of the cabinets.
1630456692347.png
 
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Solar panels
I have a 22' TT and between skylights, vents, AC, and a railing, I had very little space to work with. In my case, that left about 34" down each side of the trailer so I looked for panels that fit in the space and found one that was 33". There is space for 6 in a row on one side, 5 on the other side. I can mount a sixth one behind the AC for 1200W. I didn't care about the weight of the panels or their output, but what size panels allowed me to maximize the space. You will have more open room, but should still consider what size of panel in what arrangement gives you the most panels/watts.

Battery Bank

I would like to keep it small to save on space and weight. I was thinking I might be able to get away with 2x Battleborn 12v 100Ah heated batteries (might need 4x since the all-in-one says 48v?)
Given this is the DIY forum, I think most of us make a battery bank vs. buying Battle Born type batteries. Building your own is a 1/4 or 1/5 the cost. My 1120A setup cost roughly $2200, not much more than two Battle Borns equaling 200A.
-Small air conditioner- I’ll probably put this on a separate inverter to run at night unless it makes sense to just run the LV6048 24/7

I see Dometic is making a DC AC that draws something like 3-400w but is very expensive. If I was building a trailer from scratch, I would install a mini-split and that would take care of heating and cooling.
 
Is this the one you looked at?
3500 BTU $5k+
I thought they had another, but don't see it.
No, I was referring to the RTX 2000 and the smaller RTX 1000. They are only 3 and 6K BTU, so half of what my AC AC is.

 
No, I was referring to the RTX 2000 and the smaller RTX 1000. They are only 3 and 6K BTU, so half of what my AC AC is.
That's the one I saw before. I'd need two of those installed. I do have a skylight I could take out and install this, but that's a pricey option.
 
That's the one I saw before. I'd need two of those installed. I do have a skylight I could take out and install this, but that's a pricey option.
For now, I won't touch my AC as I don't think it is necessary until the AC unit dies. In that I only saw it run at the dealer, I don't know how good it really is. I know it would be easier to drop in a 14" model in the roof, but I would likely go with a mini-split.

I hope that I can run my existing AC off of my batteries, at least for a limited amount of time based on how much sun I get. I did just pick up one of those 2200/2500W gens at Sams Club the other day for $400.
 
I hope that I can run my existing AC off of my batteries, at least for a limited amount of time based on how much sun I get. I did just pick up one of those 2200/2500W gens at Sams Club the other day for $400.
I have a Honda Inverter generator and it runs one of my 15k BTU units. It’s a 3000 watt generator. The AC is on a 20 amp circuit.
 
I have a Honda Inverter generator and it runs one of my 15k BTU units. It’s a 3000 watt generator. The AC is on a 20 amp circuit.
The Hondas are nice, but 3X the cost :( I have seen them running the 13.5 BTU ACs on my model of gen. I didn't need to move up to the 3000W models as 2200 will run my AC. If I am not mistaken, the multiplus "blends" AC sources...i.e. I could run the microwave or something else at the same time and it would raw what it needs from the bats.
 
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