That is not helpful at all! What would you do, if you were in my shoes? Run 10x24v or 10x12v? The same panels in 12v are 10 dollars cheaper. The money issues isn't a big deal to me, the correct, safe and reliable way is.
Solar wiring 10x200w panels
- Thread starter TankFish
- Start date
Both would be safe and reliable.
A 150/70 MPPT SCC enables both to work at about the same voltage and amps.
Panel sizes may be different between 12V and 24V 200 watt panels but 12V and 24V 200w panels are both 200w.
5S2P does not need any panel fuses.
Sorry but I am not sure which one I would choose.
Hopefully others can help make a decision.
The panel dimensions are the same. Not sure how they are made. Basically I'd save 10 bucks per panel with the 12v and save on the fuses that would be required on the 24v setup.
Newpowa has 12V and 24V 210w panels on sale.
210W 24V Monocrystalline Solar Panel
Newpowa 210W solar panel 24V is specially designed for system other than 12V. The 200 watt solar panel uses latest monocrystalline solar cells. Free shipping!
www.newpowa.com
I saw those thank you. I am looking at RICH solar. Seem to have good reviews. Don't know if any one on here has got them or had any issues. 189 for 12v and 199 for 24v and about 6 inches shorter than NEWPOWA. That 6" doesn't seem like a lot, but on the top of my RV, that 6" per panel actually gives me enough room to get 5 on each side instead of 4 with NEWPOWA. I really want the stick on one's to save the weight, but I can't find that have got any decent reviews about output. They all seem to be lacking in that department.Newpowa has 12V and 24V 210w panels on sale.
210W 24V Monocrystalline Solar Panel
Newpowa 210W solar panel 24V is specially designed for system other than 12V. The 200 watt solar panel uses latest monocrystalline solar cells. Free shipping!
Find the panels that fit the roof the best size wise.
Then once you have all the voltage specs - you can play around with the charge controller and series/parallel.
Victron has a 250/70 charge controller or the 150/70. It might just be easier to use the 250/70 so you can use a higher voltage.
Fitting the panels on the roof is the hardest part. And figure out your mounting system - you may or may not need additional space for mounting.
Everything else is just details.
Then once you have all the voltage specs - you can play around with the charge controller and series/parallel.
Victron has a 250/70 charge controller or the 150/70. It might just be easier to use the 250/70 so you can use a higher voltage.
Fitting the panels on the roof is the hardest part. And figure out your mounting system - you may or may not need additional space for mounting.
Everything else is just details.
That is kinda what I am doing now. I plan to do strut bars for rails and strut cone nuts. This way, if a panel goes out, removing it won't tear a hole in my roof. I'll mount tilt mounts to each panel, and then each mount to the strut bars. Adds about 60 extra pounds, but I'll take the ease of replacing panels over having to take a few things out of the trailer before I tow.
Looks like I have about 36' of mountable space. I may use the extra few foot at the front and back for a single panel, but more than likely won't. Especially in the back, since that is my roof access area. The areas without and curve to the roof, is roughly 36'. There is a slight curve I may get another panel on, but I have to see first. It's rather windy here in the Mohave Desert, so I'm waiting for a not too windy day, to take my card board cut outs and lay them on the roof. This way I can be sure about how I want to mount them all. Then I'll buy the panels. Once they are installed and I've tested them to make sure I'm not going to blow myself up, I'll start ordering and installing the rest.
Exactly as you said, panels first. Even with cardboard, I may be a little off and have less panels than hoped for at the end of the roof install, so I'll buy the controllers and what not after I get the panels up. I won't terminate them until everything is installed and I have a nice dark night. I know you can just put cardboard over them, but with my luck, wind will pick up, the panel will get some juice and pass it to me.
Since you are thinking of strut bars I have an idea along the same line.
Look at extruded aluminum for the base. My idea is 8020.net extruded aluminum with one flat side. (Addition anchors could be a corner bracket from the side of the rail.). You could flat mount or they have stuff to make a tilting mount. It would be more expensive- but lighter.
The vendor I used for my panels on my RV has a couple of different sized panels www.continuous resources,com
Maybe those help ya -
Good Luck
Look at extruded aluminum for the base. My idea is 8020.net extruded aluminum with one flat side. (Addition anchors could be a corner bracket from the side of the rail.). You could flat mount or they have stuff to make a tilting mount. It would be more expensive- but lighter.
The vendor I used for my panels on my RV has a couple of different sized panels www.continuous resources,com
Maybe those help ya -
Good Luck
If I hadn't already bought the strut bars and strut cone nuts I probably would look into it. They are getting powder coated right now, so I wouldn't be able to return them.
I didn't want to just paint them and the nuts wouldn't slide as easy. I'll only have to touch up an end if I make a cut, which I'll just rattle can.
If we ever trade up, I'll definitely keep that in mind to save on weight. Thank you for the info!
MisterSandals
Participation Medalist
I thought this was going to end in heartbreak and wasted money. But you got lucky with what you bought and Forbisher has been spot on with his help.
You already have professional caliber help, no need to second guess that thought.
You already have professional caliber help, no need to second guess that thought.
This is my overall "planned setup"
10x 200w 24v panels
250/70 Victron SCC
24x 280ah LiFePO4 with 3 Overkill BMS's (one for each battery [3x8cell 24v])
Victron Linx power in (not getting the Linx distributor as I have no need for pretty lights and you can add studs)
Victron Orion 24/12
2x Victron Multiplus 3000 (one for each 120v lead)
Victron smart shunt 1000a
Victron BMV-712
Should work?
10x 200w 24v panels
250/70 Victron SCC
24x 280ah LiFePO4 with 3 Overkill BMS's (one for each battery [3x8cell 24v])
Victron Linx power in (not getting the Linx distributor as I have no need for pretty lights and you can add studs)
Victron Orion 24/12
2x Victron Multiplus 3000 (one for each 120v lead)
Victron smart shunt 1000a
Victron BMV-712
Should work?
You don’t need both a smart shunt and a BMV712- they do the same job.
Look at adding a GX device Cerbo or CCGX or other flavors. The information is really nice. It can also be the controller for the Multiplus’s.
With the two Multiplus’s how are you thinking of using them;
Unconnected from each other
Connected into split phase
Connected into a 6000w 120v single phase.
Look at adding a GX device Cerbo or CCGX or other flavors. The information is really nice. It can also be the controller for the Multiplus’s.
With the two Multiplus’s how are you thinking of using them;
Unconnected from each other
Connected into split phase
Connected into a 6000w 120v single phase.
I have a 50amp RV so not split phase but 2x120v separate connections. I'll be running 1 MultiPlus to each individual 120v line.
I was looking at the GX, but I didn't quite understand how it all linked, so I strayed away. I was trying to find a good video, but most of the videos I found that showed operating and installing were people flying through stuff and speaking "doctor".
My wishful setup is this whole system primarily running off solar (Batteries) and only using "Shore Power" when the batteries are low. As in leavinf the 50amp plug in my RV all the time. I've been looking for a setup like that but, cannot find one.
It’s actually pretty easy to hookup.
You get VE.Direct cables and connect the MPPT and BMV to the VE.Direct ports.
You get a VE.Bus cable to connect the Multiplus to the GX. (With 2 there is a little bit more)
Power the to unit.
and I was done with the CCGX in my RV - Cerbo has more stuff you can monitor if you choose.
I love the info at a glance of the entire system.
With the 2000 watts of solar and a VERY large battery - my guess is you will only need additional power if you are someplace that needs the a/c running all the time. Even then my guess is you can run the a/c for 2 or 3 days before needing generator or shore power.
You get VE.Direct cables and connect the MPPT and BMV to the VE.Direct ports.
You get a VE.Bus cable to connect the Multiplus to the GX. (With 2 there is a little bit more)
Power the to unit.
and I was done with the CCGX in my RV - Cerbo has more stuff you can monitor if you choose.
I love the info at a glance of the entire system.
With the 2000 watts of solar and a VERY large battery - my guess is you will only need additional power if you are someplace that needs the a/c running all the time. Even then my guess is you can run the a/c for 2 or 3 days before needing generator or shore power.
5S2P 200 watt 24V panels on a 250/70 is not going to work if you have temps less than 30°F
You do the math.
5S2P 200 watt 24V panels on a 250/70 is not going to work if you have temps less than 30°F
You do the math.
To answer both of you at the same time. We are in the Mohave Desert (29 Palms). Our lowest temp this winter so far has been about 36. In the summer we will be running one AC on low, as we are both fine with windows open in the day and AC on for about 2 to 3 hours to cool down before bed. As for the low temp, even being here, I still plan to build these batteries with an insulated rack and I'm putting a RV holding tank heater pad on the bottom to keep them all above 40* if it ever gets that cold.
