Did you forget the word YOU as you make no senseI think YOU had decided on 12v panels- so a 20v output, but it is always good to run a final check on voltages and the plan before ordering.
You use Voc NOT Vmp for max volts input!!! 45.4VocEven the 24v panels should work:
Vmp of 37.6 times 5 = 188v (way below the 250v)
The 250/70 SCC will handle 2000 watts - so what math is incorrect?
Yeah you don't know the difference between Voc and Vmp and acting like a smart ass but really a dumb ass.
Yes I "plan" to get the 24v panels, unless I should get 12v. But, I thought you said doing the 10 panels in a 2s5p the 250/70 would work? Am I missing something? Or is that still good? Sorry, just a lot of information coming from different people to some one how is just learning this stuff lol.
Who said? Who is you?Yes I "plan" to get the 24v panels, unless I should get 12v. But, I thought you said doing the 10 panels in a 2s5p the 250/70 would work? Am I missing something? Or is that still good? Sorry, just a lot of information coming from different people to some one how is just learning this stuff lol.
I can only fit 8 to 10 (10 depending on the front support where it starts to curve just slightly on the front of my 5th wheel). I'm still researching and learning. Nothing bought yet except the wire for the panels, wire and BMS's for the batteries, batteries (because they will take months from China) and the strut bars (so i could get them coated).Can you fit 12 panels? Many more ways to factor 12 into series/parallel.
Highest series voltage you can do while never exceeding SCC specs on a record cold day is generally best - lower current in wire from PV to SCC, less loss. Or cheaper, smaller gauge wire.
24V (or 36V) panels generally preferred - used for commercial applications and available very cheap.
Several brands of SCC supporting 150V, 200V, 250V. However, the higher voltage models aren't necessarily the best deal. They often cost more dollars per watt delivered. Select panels and inverter, and calculate what combo works together and fits your available space. (Since panels vary is size and aspect ratio, some models may fill the space better.)
Lol, sorry, when you retaliate to them (the dudes), you use a lot of sarcasm and it's hard to read over text. I plan, plans change, to do 2s5p with 10 24v panels. The arguing amongst each other is funny, but confusing to some one still learning, meaning me. I'll do the math and figure out what works best for us in our RV. Thank you for all your help, it truly is appreciated.Who said? Who is you?
They were talking about 5S2P on a 250 / 70.
2S5P is absolutely No problem on a 150 / 70. Only 90V!!!
Why get a 250V Victron if you are Only wiring it 2S??????
I never said that and if you are listening to the other dude then good luck!
45.4Voc x 5 = what?
Then allow for cold temps by multiplying by 1.1 or maybe 1.2 if you are realistic about desert temps.
Yes, lower temps than 75°f increase the Voc.
Learn to do the simple math yourself and don't rely on random dudes online.
You are making me work way too hard here and if you smoke your expensive 250 / 70 Victron I won't be crying.
Jesus you are a real cheeky smart arse arn't you . Whats got up your nose . Nobody else entitled to an opinion , right or wrong.? Ever heard of a MOV , fitted to all the modern stuff . Most can take the occassional overvoltage prune.Yeah you don't know the difference between Voc and Vmp and acting like a smart ass but really a dumb ass.
You advised dumping 227V into a 150V max input SCC and also did not account for low temps that would increase the Voc to about 250V.
250V into a 150V max SCC is magic smoke time you dumb ass. Lol
If that's the best you can do then stop giving advice.
Check out the victron site . I could be wrong but I run mine on the understanding that overvoltage from the PV is simply ignored and not passed .I've been running one for 3 years plus now and it does occassionally top out on some of the blazingly hot days we have here but it sheds the overvoltage to ground and I don't see any other device responsible in the circuit.Question on MOV's
Check out the victron site . I could be wrong but I run mine on the understanding that overvoltage from the PV is simply ignored and not passed .I've been running one for 3 years plus now and it does occassionally top out on some of the blazingly hot days we have here but it sheds the overvoltage to ground and I don't see any other device responsible in the circuit.
The plus side is on our many rainy cloudy days my cells are recharged in the first few daylight hours.
Clearly up over 185 volts is pushing it so the 250 volt model would be a safer course and its only an extra $100 so why not and save that on branch Y connectors and smaller wire .
But a MOV does not operate like that . It holds a very high resistance until its threshold is crossed and then the resistance begins to drop allowing current to flow to ground increasing as the voltage increases and reducing as voltage reduces . Its not a switch to turn another mosfet on . Its a gradual dumping of more and more current as voltage increases and is connected directly across positive and negative lines.I've thought about how to support higher Voc strings. Pulling voltage down to an acceptable level can involve a huge amount of power to be dissipated, which is why I challenged you to show how a MOV could be used. They are good for eating momentary spikes carrying a limited number of Joules. While MOV could be used as a trigger circuit (if its voltage was more tightly controlled than I see in data sheets), something else would have to clamp or open the circuit.
RV50A IS SPLIT PHASEI have a 50amp RV so not split phase but 2x120v separate connections. I'll be running 1 MultiPlus to each individual 120v line.
I was looking at the GX, but I didn't quite understand how it all linked, so I strayed away. I was trying to find a good video, but most of the videos I found that showed operating and installing were people flying through stuff and speaking "doctor".
RV50A IS SPLIT PHASE
If you do not have ANY 240V loads, it doesn’t have to be, but it is a split phase connection and panel.
be aware, that some RV wiring uses multiwire shared neutral... so a split phase setup is wise if you do not know how the RV is wired...
A 50A shore power rv outlet can be connected with a 30A adapter, but I do not think a 30A shore power outlet can be adapted to a 50A RV.Come to think of it, I [think] RV are normally wired so circuits on both halves of breaker panel can be on same 120V phase. This requires they not share white neutral, to avoid adding current in it.
"some RV wiring uses multiwire shared neutral"
Meaning two 20A 120V circuits, if fed with same phase, would have 40A in their shared neutral?
Common shore power cord is 50A 120/240V. It can be adapted to 30A 120V, in which case about 30A is maximum continuous that could be put through any neutral in the RV. Since a 30A breaker can carry 45A for 10 to 20 minutes, that's really to much for 12awg.