SolArk 15k Shutdown for a couple minutes

[LBen]

My system had been running for 15 months with no issues up until last Saturday. 9.7 kw array, currently 61 kWh of EG4 LL batteries, grid tied and 11 kW propane generator. After the first winter I decided to add 4 more batteries getting me to the 61 kWh of capacity.

Last Saturday afternoon, power in the house went off. I went down to the garage to check out the inverter. The red alarm lamp was on and the inverter was beeping. F13 (Grid Mode Change) was annunciated. After a couple minutes the alarm light went out and power came back on in the house. I thought all was good - for now.

Sunday I just happened to check the app, batteries were at 100%, but no power was being sent to the grid. Bright sunny day. Went down to the inverter and pulled up the grid config page. Things were screwed up. 50 hz block was checked along with the single phase 220v block and the grid mode entry was blank. I tried to set things back to what they should have been, but the inverter would not accept any of my changes. I power cycled the inverter a couple times with no success. Tried calling SolArk, but was put on hold and eventually rolled over to voicemail, so I left a message (they responded to the message I left about 24 hours later). An hour later I called again and got a tech. After logging in and looking at things, she said that she would have to push new s/w and do a factory reset. S/W had been updated less than a year before. She then did some set up on the unit and got me back in the ball park to where the inverter appeared to be doing what it was supposed to do.

We discussed what could have happened to cause the issue. I may not be understanding what she had told me. But it was something about some system issue that SolArk had where something had gotten pushed out to some of the SA15s in service. She said that they had gotten a bunch of calls earlier ( a week ago?) and she was surprised that my inverter exhibited the problem much later. I don't know, but that is what I think she was telling me.

I did a follow up call on Monday to further discuss the issue. The tech I spoke with was not knowledgable and was no help. So that is why I'm posting to get some advice from the experts on this forum.

Question 1: What actually happened? If they can randomly push something through the dongle that screws up my inverter, maybe time to disconnect it and use Solar Assistant to monitor performance.

Question 2: Why was I unable to make changes on the Grid Setup page?

Question 3: On the main display, the load icon (light bulb) is occasionally highlighted in yellow. I can't find anything that tells me what that means. Went down several times today to get a picture, but it refused to cooperate. Any idea what the yellow means?

Question 4: On the page that comes up when one taps on the Battery icon. There is one field highlighted in red (see attached image). Manual says the CT is wired backwards. This problem did not exist prior to the "EVENT". Is this a s/w issue or something broken in the inverter electronics?

Last winter, when I had multiple days of low solar production, I had some TOU tweaks. Of course those all got wiped with the factory reset. I do not like the TOU description in the manual and I have not been able to find anything really useful on the web. Can anyone point me to a good tutorial?

Thanks,
Lowell

 

[Brucey]

We discussed what could have happened to cause the issue. I may not be understanding what she had told me. But it was something about some system issue that SolArk had where something had gotten pushed out to some of the SA15s in service. She said that they had gotten a bunch of calls earlier ( a week ago?) and she was surprised that my inverter exhibited the problem much later. I don't know, but that is what I think she was telling me.

I did a follow up call on Monday to further discuss the issue. The tech I spoke with was not knowledgable and was no help. So that is why I'm posting to get some advice from the experts on this forum.

Question 1: What actually happened? If they can randomly push something through the dongle that screws up my inverter, maybe time to disconnect it and use Solar Assistant to monitor performance.

Frankly terrifying stuff and a solid reason to ditch the umbilical connection to their apparently corrupting mothership. And the thought was that moving to US servers versus China/Deye for the monitoring would increase security.....Even eg4 doesnt have this kind of chaos.

I do recall that in the big solark migration thread that there was a period of time where users that went into the settings caused it to switch limits to 12k instead of 15k or something like that, and it couldn't be fixed by the user solark had to connect and resolve.

 

[robby]

My system had been running for 15 months with no issues up until last Saturday. 9.7 kw array, currently 61 kWh of EG4 LL batteries, grid tied and 11 kW propane generator. After the first winter I decided to add 4 more batteries getting me to the 61 kWh of capacity.

Last Saturday afternoon, power in the house went off. I went down to the garage to check out the inverter. The red alarm lamp was on and the inverter was beeping. F13 (Grid Mode Change) was annunciated. After a couple minutes the alarm light went out and power came back on in the house. I thought all was good - for now.

Sunday I just happened to check the app, batteries were at 100%, but no power was being sent to the grid. Bright sunny day. Went down to the inverter and pulled up the grid config page. Things were screwed up. 50 hz block was checked along with the single phase 220v block and the grid mode entry was blank. I tried to set things back to what they should have been, but the inverter would not accept any of my changes. I power cycled the inverter a couple times with no success. Tried calling SolArk, but was put on hold and eventually rolled over to voicemail, so I left a message (they responded to the message I left about 24 hours later). An hour later I called again and got a tech. After logging in and looking at things, she said that she would have to push new s/w and do a factory reset. S/W had been updated less than a year before. She then did some set up on the unit and got me back in the ball park to where the inverter appeared to be doing what it was supposed to do.

We discussed what could have happened to cause the issue. I may not be understanding what she had told me. But it was something about some system issue that SolArk had where something had gotten pushed out to some of the SA15s in service. She said that they had gotten a bunch of calls earlier ( a week ago?) and she was surprised that my inverter exhibited the problem much later. I don't know, but that is what I think she was telling me.

I did a follow up call on Monday to further discuss the issue. The tech I spoke with was not knowledgable and was no help. So that is why I'm posting to get some advice from the experts on this forum.

Question 1: What actually happened? If they can randomly push something through the dongle that screws up my inverter, maybe time to disconnect it and use Solar Assistant to monitor performance.

Question 2: Why was I unable to make changes on the Grid Setup page?

Question 3: On the main display, the load icon (light bulb) is occasionally highlighted in yellow. I can't find anything that tells me what that means. Went down several times today to get a picture, but it refused to cooperate. Any idea what the yellow means?

Question 4: On the page that comes up when one taps on the Battery icon. There is one field highlighted in red (see attached image). Manual says the CT is wired backwards. This problem did not exist prior to the "EVENT". Is this a s/w issue or something broken in the inverter electronics?

Last winter, when I had multiple days of low solar production, I had some TOU tweaks. Of course those all got wiped with the factory reset. I do not like the TOU description in the manual and I have not been able to find anything really useful on the web. Can anyone point me to a good tutorial?

Thanks,
Lowell


View attachment 276477View attachment 276478

This is what Happened: Sol-Ark Server Update
I am not sure why you had a delayed problem but anyone who saved changes using MySolArk on the 20-22 of January was at risk of having something get corrupted. They had sent out an email to say the system would be under maintenance, but for some reason they left the settings page accessible to the users.

I would ignore the Nay Sayers. As you said you had 15 Months of trouble free service. I have had 3 Years of trouble free service.
Sol-Ark seems to be still working out the bugs when it comes to their new MySolArk App and Webportal system. It now seems to be very stable so I think the worst is over.

 

[LBen]

This is what Happened: Sol-Ark Server Update
I am not sure why you had a delayed problem but anyone who saved changes using MySolArk on the 20-22 of January was at risk of having something get corrupted. They had sent out an email to say the system would be under maintenance, but for some reason they left the settings page accessible to the users.

I would ignore the Nay Sayers. As you said you had 15 Months of trouble free service. I have had 3 Years of trouble free service.
Sol-Ark seems to be still working out the bugs when it comes to their new MySolArk App and Webportal system. It now seems to be very stable so I think the worst is over.

Yep, I knew about the server update. Was not planning on making any changes during that time. Assumed I might not be able to see my plant data during that time - no problem.

I find it somewhat hard to believe that the server update would have caused an issue with my inverter two weeks later.

I was considering going off grid after this winter, but will now need to reassess. If the inverter goes down, I only have the transfer switch to the grid to keep lights on in the house, but the grid is very unreliable out here. I've been considering making up a set of jumper cables where I can manually interconnect the generator output to the load terminals inside the SA. I don't have enough wall space to install another transfer switch.

End of last winter we had a sizeable storm come in and dump 36" of snow on us. Utility power was out just over 48 hours. Took me 2 days to clear my driveway. Some folks out here were blocked in for 5 days before they got plowed out. Rumor has it that an older lady about 10 miles away died from hypothermia during that storm.

Any answers to my other questions?

 

[glandpuck]

Page 25 of 15K manual:

AC Temp: Internal AC conversion side temperature.
• “Grid” column measures: Voltage, Current, Power and frequency of the utility grid.
o If selling to the Grid, Watts = negative (-)
o If buying from the Grid, Watts = positive (+)
o HM: power measured by the external CT sensors. (L1, L2).
o LD: power measured by the internal sensor on “GRID” terminal. (L1, L2).

From your photos, the AC temp is about 120 degrees.

The different colors and the exchanged numbers for LD and HM would seem to indicate that maybe the wiring or connection on the external CT sensor is reversed or wrong direction or wrong terminal connections?

 

[LBen]

Page 25 of 15K manual:

AC Temp: Internal AC conversion side temperature.
• “Grid” column measures: Voltage, Current, Power and frequency of the utility grid.
o If selling to the Grid, Watts = negative (-)
o If buying from the Grid, Watts = positive (+)
o HM: power measured by the external CT sensors. (L1, L2).
o LD: power measured by the internal sensor on “GRID” terminal. (L1, L2).

From your photos, the AC temp is about 120 degrees.

The different colors and the exchanged numbers for LD and HM would seem to indicate that maybe the wiring or connection on the external CT sensor is reversed or wrong direction or wrong terminal connections?

Previous to the event everything on that page was normal. The red field showed up after the event, and the push of the s/w and factory reset. I have not touched the CT wires since the install back in October, 2023. Something else is going on that I had nothing to do with.

I have gotten to the point that I really dislike calling Sol Ark tech support. It is a crap shoot whether or not you get someone who knows what they are doing.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

 

[robby]

Yep, I knew about the server update. Was not planning on making any changes during that time. Assumed I might not be able to see my plant data during that time - no problem.

I find it somewhat hard to believe that the server update would have caused an issue with my inverter two weeks later.

I have not seen anybody else with the issue after the update, but it must be related because all of the Grid settings I saw in MySolArk on Jan 21st were either Zeros or some weird number.

I was considering going off grid after this winter, but will now need to reassess. If the inverter goes down, I only have the transfer switch to the grid to keep lights on in the house, but the grid is very unreliable out here. I've been considering making up a set of jumper cables where I can manually interconnect the generator output to the load terminals inside the SA. I don't have enough wall space to install another transfer switch.

End of last winter we had a sizeable storm come in and dump 36" of snow on us. Utility power was out just over 48 hours. Took me 2 days to clear my driveway. Some folks out here were blocked in for 5 days before they got plowed out. Rumor has it that an older lady about 10 miles away died from hypothermia during that storm.

Never get rid of the Grid!
It's the best backup you can have.

Any answers to my other questions?

Question 1: What actually happened? If they can randomly push something through the dongle that screws up my inverter, maybe time to disconnect it and use Solar Assistant to monitor performance.

They did not push anything that I am aware of, but if you hit "Save" on any of the pages it most likely wrote that garbage to your inverter.

Question 2: Why was I unable to make changes on the Grid Setup page?

It was not working properly during the Maintenance period so I don't even know if it was parsing the values you inputted back to the Inverter. You could have changed them back using the LCD screen.
I highly suggest that you spend some time learning where everything is in that Menu. It can come in handy during an emergency. Solar Assistant cannot change many of the settings inside a Sol-Ark


Question 3: On the main display, the load icon (light bulb) is occasionally highlighted in yellow. I can't find anything that tells me what that means. Went down several times today to get a picture, but it refused to cooperate. Any idea what the yellow means?

The Area around the Icon changes to Yellow when you are nearing a maximum set point value.


Question 4: On the page that comes up when one taps on the Battery icon. There is one field highlighted in red (see attached image). Manual says the CT is wired backwards. This problem did not exist prior to the "EVENT". Is this a s/w issue or something broken in the inverter electronics?

Your CT on the AC side is wired in backwards but Sol-Ark has a unique feature that allows the Inverter to internally reverse the direction if needed. It must have been set to ON by your Installer before the Crash and has now defaulted back to OFF and not fixed by the CS Rep who was reprogramming the Inverter.
Go into settings and then advanced setting and toggle it to the Right.
In the picture mine is off because it is wired correctly and I don't need it.

 

[LBen]

I have not seen anybody else with the issue after the update, but it must be related because all of the Grid settings I saw in MySolArk on Jan 21st were either Zeros or some weird number.

Never get rid of the Grid!
It's the best backup you can have.

Question 1: What actually happened? If they can randomly push something through the dongle that screws up my inverter, maybe time to disconnect it and use Solar Assistant to monitor performance.

They did not push anything that I am aware of, but if you hit "Save" on any of the pages it most likely wrote that garbage to your inverter.

Question 2: Why was I unable to make changes on the Grid Setup page?

It was not working properly during the Maintenance period so I don't even know if it was parsing the values you inputted back to the Inverter. You could have changed them back using the LCD screen.
I highly suggest that you spend some time learning where everything is in that Menu. It can come in handy during an emergency. Solar Assistant cannot change many of the settings inside a Sol-Ark


Question 3: On the main display, the load icon (light bulb) is occasionally highlighted in yellow. I can't find anything that tells me what that means. Went down several times today to get a picture, but it refused to cooperate. Any idea what the yellow means?

The Area around the Icon changes to Yellow when you are nearing a maximum set point value.


Question 4: On the page that comes up when one taps on the Battery icon. There is one field highlighted in red (see attached image). Manual says the CT is wired backwards. This problem did not exist prior to the "EVENT". Is this a s/w issue or something broken in the inverter electronics?

Your CT on the AC side is wired in backwards but Sol-Ark has a unique feature that allows the Inverter to internally reverse the direction if needed. It must have been set to ON by your Installer before the Crash and has now defaulted back to OFF and not fixed by the CS Rep who was reprogramming the Inverter.
Go into settings and then advanced setting and toggle it to the Right.
In the picture mine is off because it is wired correctly and I don't need it.

View attachment 276548

@robby, thanks for the reply.

I had not touched any settings on the inverter since last winter when I did some TOU changes. Also, I only use the app to monitor the system. Back when I was setting up things 15 months ago and then the TOU stuff last winter, I soley used the LCD screen and buttons on the inverter.

And I was the engineer, integrator, installer, educator of the local inspectors and chief bottle washer during the system install. Once it was all put together and running, it is just another box that I expect to run with no issues.

Being grid tied out here costs $47 a month, just to be connected and not use any power. The rural electric co-op doesn't like solar at all and they actively try to dissuade people from installing solar. But since Colorado claims to be green and provides offsets to utilities that can claim solar credits, they play the game. This utility claims the credit, but the people that have installed solar are the ones that indirectly pay for those solar credits. They only pay 2.2 pennies per kWh that my system pushes into their grid and then turn around and charge 12.69 pennies per kWh to people who use their power. So yeah, they are making a good amount of money off of people pushing power into their grid. Now some folks may ask why I am pushing that much power into their grid. Well my system is sized to be able to power our house for nearly 3 days. We have had grid outages in excess of two days at numerous times and almost always that is at the same time we have had bad weather.

Tomorrow I'll go back and double check to verify if I had wired the CTs incorrectly, but I doubt it. Will report back. And @robby, I have gone through the LCD display menus numerous times and never seen the image you have provided. I'll look again for that also.

Way back in the day, I was an avionics technician working on heavy jets in the AF, B-52Hs and KC-135s. Then I did manned space for 32 years as a guidance, navigation and control engineer. Had to write user's guides for numerous s/w tools we built. I was charged with reviewing documentation that other engineers wrote. The SA 15k manual would not have made it out the door without major modifications.

Am not a happy camper when I get something set up the way I like it and then months later, something happens or somebody does something to screw it up.

 

[robby]

I am going to bed now but on a quick note, that was the MySolArk App that was in the picture.
It is under Equipment - Inverter - Parameter Settings -- Advanced Settings
You don't need to change the setting if you flip the wires. Personally I would put in Automatic and see if the problem goes away. If it does then turn it back off and flip the wires around. it is always better to have it wired correctly in case you ever reset the Inverter again.
BTW Take camera shots with your phone of all your settings in each menu on the LCD.
It's very handy if you ever have another emergency.
I will get back to you on the rest of your post tomorrow.
Night

 

[Quattrohead]

Your CT on the AC side is wired in backwards but Sol-Ark has a unique feature that allows the Inverter to internally reverse the direction if needed.

Not unique at all, many inverters that use external CT's have this option. EG4 do on the 12/18kpv and Flexboss.

 

[Quattrohead]

@LBen unfortunately the company did a piss poor job at transitioning from Chinese to USA based back end, it has taken them months to figure it out but hopefully they will get there.
The hardware is great.

 

[Oldphile]

Personally I would put in Automatic and see if the problem goes away. If it does then turn it back off and flip the wires around.

If he flips the wires after running auto CT detect, he would need to run auto CT detect again.

 

[glandpuck]

I installed my 15K myself. I had previously been running Outback Power system and wanted an AIO. I had a ton of changes to make in the charging, connections, CT's, etc. that I read the manual over and over. Some things on the pages have little nuances that don't seem like much, but can become an issue after the fact. So I re-read the manual. I thought the connections for the CT's could be don't in a much easier, more foolproof design. Same for programming a lot of the settings. But I have been lucky. I experimented with things like the time of use and battery charging and generator use, cautiously making changes. My system just hums along now and I just monitor it and have a pretty easy time of changing parameters when our grid goes out and the gen set comes on. Also, I use an Emporia EV charger which works great with the Sol-Ark. I can manually start and stop the charger and change amps on the fly which is a great feature when using an inverter.

Lastly, I have found that when I make changes at the LCD panel, they are almost immediate to be accepted by the inverter, but when done via the website or the phone app, there can be a delay of several minutes until they go from the phone to the servers to the inverter and maybe these kind of parameter changes should be kept to a minimum and just 1 or 2 changes at a time and confirmation of acceptance before making any more changes.

 

[LBen]

Hey all, and especially @robby. Thanks for the input.

I took a look at the CTs this morning and something is not correct in the inverter. I've attached an image of the CT wire connections in the inverter - they are correct. There are no splices in the CT wire, it is a continuous run. I also confirmed in the advanced settings that the auto detect was off.

Just for grins, I swapped the CTs on the main feed wires coming into the house. Got red numbers on both L1 and L2 on the display. Swapped them back and got back to the original condition.

Then went into the advanced settings and turned CT auto detect on. No more red numbers. Wish I had access to the code - I hate trying to figure out things by poking and prodding so see what kind of response comes out of a box.

And just as a reminder, system was running as expected until the event last Saturday and the subsequent push of a new s/w load and factory reset.

Guess I'll try calling SA tech support Monday or Tuesday to see what they have to say. Hope I luck out and get someone who is knowledgeable.

I had been referencing a manual from several years ago. I see they now have version 3, so I will read through that some. As for the Load icon being highlighted in yellow, I see no reference to that in the manual. There are four instances of "yellow" in the text, only two are explicit to inverter operation. One for low battery and the other is for grid parameters being out of specified range. So what @robby mentioned about load being out of specified range makes sense, but what is the specified range? What is the significance?

And as @robby mentioned, once I get the TOU tweaked back to what I want, I will be taking pictures of all of the displays. Wish there was a way I could get a clean copy of the software and have a way of installing said s/w if there was ever another upset.

Lowell

 

[glandpuck]

My Sol Ark phone app equipment tab shows all corrupted values tonight for first time ever. This includes a battery SOC 0f -25344%, a PV output of 31744 watts at 10:30 PM and a load of -5268 watts being supplied.

I suspect Sol Ark has a big data server problem and corruption, maybe even hacked system?

 

[Brucey]

My Sol Ark phone app equipment tab shows all corrupted values tonight for first time ever. This includes a battery SOC 0f -25344%, a PV output of 31744 watts at 10:30 PM and a load of -5268 watts being supplied.

I suspect Sol Ark has a big data server problem and corruption, maybe even hacked system?

Revenge of the bricked Deye owners?

 

[glandpuck]

So just after midnight, I checked the Sol Ark phone app. This is because at midnight, we start our EV charging. All of the Sol Ark values under the equipment tab were now back to "normal" readings.

Now, what I have been noticing are other strange behaviors that started just after the first of the year.

Under the Overview tab, there are values for E-Today, E-Month, E-Year and E-Total. These are all correct and positive numbers.

If I tab over to the equipment view, the E-Today is correct and the E-Total is correct, BUT the E-Month is a negative number and the E-Year is also negative. Unless these are meant to represent PV - Grid = the E-Month or E-Year total, I have no explanation for this. It was not this way in 2024.

 

[LBen]

On the Sol-Ark website there is a document called "Basic Programming Guide". I have read it several times end to end and then repeatedly re-read the last section - "On Grid TOU - GEN/GRID AC charging of batteries". This section most closely matches how I want to run my inverter.

But..., I still can't really do what I want to do. Attached images are of how I currently have the Batt Setup and Limiter pages set.



Charging of the batteries by the generator will start when they reach 25%.



The TOU page is where I hit a limitation. While the grid is up, I'm allowing the batteries to be drawn down to 35% before the grid picks up the slack. If the grid fails, the batteries are allowed to draw down to 25% as specified on the Batt Setup page before the generator is commanded to start. But the batteries will only be charged to 35% at which time the generator will shut off. While the grid is down, I would like to charge the batteries to say 50% to minimize generator cycling during a long period of bad Solar - can't do it with this setup. I would need a batt column for when the grid is up and another for when the grid is down.

Anybody see anything wrong with my understanding of how the TOU works?

Thanks,
Lowell

 

[Oldphile]

Maybe this document will explain TOU better.

 

[LBen]

Thanks @Oldphile.

I looked at both that doc and the one I referenced earlier. I'm thinking that the one I referenced is a later version on the subject. Some of the same material is covered in both. The one I had referenced is a little bit easier to read. Just can't do what I want to do.

 

[Shawn Hayes]

Not sure these threads help, but perhaps if you haven’t seen them, maybe it could?

K

Thread 'Time of Use settings'

Feb 22, 2023

I don’t understand how the So-Ark TOU works. I would like to set my 15K so that if it is available Solar will power the loads, when Solar is not available I would like to use battery power for the loads. When the battery drops below a certain voltage, I would like for the grid to power the loads AND charge the batteries. Is this possible?

• Kdmax
• Replies: 25
• Forum: Beginners Corner and Safety Check

T

Thread 'Solark 15k... going crazy with trying to understand Time Of Use...'

Jun 30, 2024

My setup:
Solark 15k
10KW of solar
304 AH batteries, two of them, managing them I'm using Batrium BMS.

My goal would be to use the batteries during the mid peak and high peak hours. These hours are:
3pm- 7pm Mid Peak
7pm-11pm High peak

How do I set the parameters to meet this objective? I have tried to set the above times but the Solark comes with time brackets that don't exactly fit my need. I also have Solar Assistant up and running but it yielded not clues as to where to start. I also see the "Grid Peak Shaving" setting on the inverter but when I set it, nothing happens. Any direction...

• thoriumjoe
• Replies: 5
• Forum: Hybrid and Grid-tie Inverters

 

[Shawn Hayes]

Found this too if it helps?

 

[robby]

Hey all, and especially @robby. Thanks for the input.

I took a look at the CTs this morning and something is not correct in the inverter. I've attached an image of the CT wire connections in the inverter - they are correct. There are no splices in the CT wire, it is a continuous run. I also confirmed in the advanced settings that the auto detect was off.

Just for grins, I swapped the CTs on the main feed wires coming into the house. Got red numbers on both L1 and L2 on the display. Swapped them back and got back to the original condition.

Then went into the advanced settings and turned CT auto detect on. No more red numbers. Wish I had access to the code - I hate trying to figure out things by poking and prodding so see what kind of response comes out of a box.

So that issue is fixed?
I don't know what you mean by "Code"?
There are two accounts for the Inverter. One is a User account which has limited access and the other is an Installer Account that has full access. You can get full Installer access by requesting it from Sol-Ark.

And just as a reminder, system was running as expected until the event last Saturday and the subsequent push of a new s/w load and factory reset.

Yes Factory reset means any custom changes made by your Installer were deleted back to default.

Guess I'll try calling SA tech support Monday or Tuesday to see what they have to say. Hope I luck out and get someone who is knowledgeable.

I had been referencing a manual from several years ago. I see they now have version 3, so I will read through that some. As for the Load icon being highlighted in yellow, I see no reference to that in the manual. There are four instances of "yellow" in the text, only two are explicit to inverter operation. One for low battery and the other is for grid parameters being out of specified range. So what @robby mentioned about load being out of specified range makes sense, but what is the specified range? What is the significance?

What is the Loads value when it goes yellow.
You are evidently nearing an upper limit on either one phase or both.

And as @robby mentioned, once I get the TOU tweaked back to what I want, I will be taking pictures of all of the displays. Wish there was a way I could get a clean copy of the software and have a way of installing said s/w if there was ever another upset.

Lowell

There is a way to view and save all your AC electrical settings.

Using Web Portal or Phone App
Go to Inverter -- Parameter Settings --- Grid Settings -- (Download button on the Top Right of screen)
Setting will be downloaded into an html file called "Grid-Settings-Report"

If you ever have a problem again just forward the email to Sol-Ark and they can restore it back or you can do it yourself.

 

[LBen]

I still haven't tried to contact Sol-Ark, been working on taxes and a couple other tasks this last week.

"Code" is just the software that is running in the inverter.

Since I did the install, I do have installer account access.

I have not caught the "Load" icon going yellow in quite a while. Inverter is in the garage and I may only walk through that garage once or twice a day. I can't remember the name of the display that is brought up when the "Battery" icon is touched. That display shows the L1/L2 loads and they run pretty close together.

Good pointer on how to save the settings. Already took pics, will do that process also.

In addition to pushing off contacting SA, I also forgot to get some scheduling done with the infusion clinic at the local hospital for a blood draining. Blood iron levels get too high. Back in 2019 I trashed my left leg. Maybe they put in a steel plate and wood screws and not the titanium hardware they were supposed to (joking). Dr has no idea why my blood iron keeps going up. Anyway, now have a sticky on the edge of the monitor to remind me to call SA and the hospital.

 

[LBen]

@Shawn Hayes , thanks for pointing out the two thread references and the video. One of the thread references I had come across previously.

And thanks @robby and @Oldphile and others for the additional input.

Lots of flexibility with the 15K, but the dual use TOU battery column limits me. For now I'll will leave things the way they are. When there is insufficient PV production; if the Grid is up, my system will run the batteries down to 35% before calling on the Grid. If the Grid is down, the batteries will get pulled down to 25% at which point the Gen will come on and bring the batteries back up to 35% before shutting down.

The 10% spacing is 6100 watts of battery and our house will run about 6 hours on that 6100 watts before the gen will have to come back on. Guess I'll just have to live with that limitation.