SolArk Install Plan

[ArthurEld]

I have been talking about getting a SolArk 12K for months and I am finally getting the permit plan together.
I am going to do as much of the install as I can myself.
I am hoping you guys can comment about anything that is missing or if there is anything that isn't clear that should be.
Or please let me know if there is a better way.

 

[newbostonconst]

I am not an expert but looks good. I think you might end up having to add another 1 or 2 grounding rods depending on your house layout. Also make sure your Main Service panel is capable and add note to have input breaker mounted at the bottom of the panel. You might want to read up on the 120% rule because your 60 amp input breaker I think might be slightly to large.

In my city the inspector wouldn't even notice this stuff....Good Luck.

 

[newbostonconst]

Looking more at the ground rods.....I think your main panel will require 2 ground rods itself and one for the sub panel and possibly another for the solark but if they are all really close to each other you might be able to do it with the 2 at the main panel...

Going crazy the array could need one also....again depending on how the wires are ran and where the components are mounted.

 

[ArthurEld]

I am not an expert but looks good. I think you might end up having to add another 1 or 2 grounding rods depending on your house layout. Also make sure your Main Service panel is capable and add note to have input breaker mounted at the bottom of the panel. You might want to read up on the 120% rule because your 60 amp input breaker I think might be slightly to large.

In my city the inspector wouldn't even notice this stuff....Good Luck.

Thanks for the reply. My panel has the main 150A shut off at the bottom so I think the input breakers need to be on the top.
I will check into the 120% rule more and I will look into the grounding rods as well.

 

[svetz]

I had gotten the impression that Sol-Arc's MPPTs wanted to be "balanced", did they say anything about that to you given your east/west configuration and panel count difference?

Here's a first pass at list that perhaps the forums can tailor as a general checklist?

1. Energy Audit completed & system modeled in SAM to ensure you have what you need and it produces as expected
2. Panel quantity, type, orientation all decided upon
3. Rapid shutdown planned
4. Panel disconnect planned
5. NEC requirements met
   1. Proper wire types/gauges calculated
   2. Roof conduit (elevated if needed) planned
   3. 120% rule verified
   4. Grounding/Earthing plan
   5. Voltage drops calculated
   6. UV Resistant Labeling as per codes
6. Building Codes
   1. Mounting plan to withstand local winds
   2. Verification roof doesn't need additional support for additional forces
   3. Battery bank location can withstand/support weight and has proper ventilation
   4. Roof Plan (e.g., no Zone 3 or if so reinforced)
   5. Components all mounted at BFE+1 (flood zones only)
7. Roof in good repair (it'll last +20 years underneath)
8. Plan to seal all roof penetrations
9. String Arrays balanced and under MPP maximums (not required for microinverters)
10. Annual shade patterns analyzed
11. Battery bank disconnect/breaker to Inverter
12. Grid disconnect/breaker to Inverter
13. Critical loads (or smart loads) planned
14. Ability to measure power from/to: Panels, house, batteries, grid
15. Monitoring solution to generate alerts if anything goes wrong
16. Battery low/high voltage cutoff
17. SPDs planned or ruled out.
18. Insurance Plan
19. Net-Metering and PTO if applicable
20. Panel cleaning/maintenance plan
21. Engineering and Maintenance documentation (for future owners after home sale)

 

[ArthurEld]

Thanks svetz, I'll start working through that checklist and I'll check out SAM
From what I was told about the MPPTs, the SolArk has 2 and each one needs equal strings.
So, there will be 2 strings of 9 on the West and 2 strings of 6 on the East.

 

[BobH]

One suggestions for the AC Disconnect - Engineeer775 puts in a Double Throw Disconnect instead of the simple disconnect. In the Down position it bypasses the Sol-ark and feeds the Critical Loads panel from the Main breaker panel. In the Center position it cuts off all power past the Main Breaker panel. In the Up position (normal running position) it feeds the Sol-Ark from the Main breaker panel. With the double throw switch, if you have to take the Sol-Ark or down-stream systems down for maintenance, the critical loads still gets fed with a simple switch lever. Something similar to this double throw one - https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-A...-Double-Throw-Safety-Switch-TC35322/202978651

Also, you may need to show the low voltage wiring for the actual RSD switch/button & TIGO Transmitter. Right now it just shows the TIGO transmitter hanging out there. There is an output on the Sol-Ark that feeds the low voltage power to the transmitter and then also has a circuit for the RSD button/switch that emergency personnel would use to shutdown the panels. I think there's a schematic in the SA manual showing the RSD wiring.

 

[ArthurEld]

Thanks Bob, I will check in to your suggestions.

 

[ArthurEld]

Bob, I think the AC disconnect on my plan is outside by the meter.
And when

One suggestions for the AC Disconnect - Engineeer775 puts in a Double Throw Disconnect instead of the simple disconnect. In the Down position it bypasses the Sol-ark and feeds the Critical Loads panel from the Main breaker panel. In the Center position it cuts off all power past the Main Breaker panel. In the Up position (normal running position) it feeds the Sol-Ark from the Main breaker panel. With the double throw switch, if you have to take the Sol-Ark or down-stream systems down for maintenance, the critical loads still gets fed with a simple switch lever. Something similar to this double throw one - https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-A...-Double-Throw-Safety-Switch-TC35322/202978651

Also, you may need to show the low voltage wiring for the actual RSD switch/button & TIGO Transmitter. Right now it just shows the TIGO transmitter hanging out there. There is an output on the Sol-Ark that feeds the low voltage power to the transmitter and then also has a circuit for the RSD button/switch that emergency personnel would use to shutdown the panels. I think there's a schematic in the SA manual showing the RSD wiring.

BobH, I am waiting for an answer about the AC disconnect but I think the AC disconnect in this drawing is for firemen to do the rapid shutdown.
I am guessing since I haven't got an answer but I think that will cause the Tigo RSD transmitter to send the signal to the panels to shut down.
I'll see what AltE has to say. Here's a picture from the SolArk manual that shows a transfer switch that I believe will do what you were saying.



There are some odd things going on with the neutral wires in this picture and I will ask SolArk about that.
newbostonconst mentioned ground connections and I am still looking into that. The pic above is from the latest manual and they changed the picture to show the neutral connected to the ground. There are also neutral wires that appear to be connected to nothing. I will post when I figure out what this is supposed to mean.

 

[ArthurEld]

 

[SolarQueen]

You might want to read up on the 120% rule because your 60 amp input breaker I think might be slightly to large.

He's got a 225A bus bar in his breaker box, and a 200A breaker for the main. 225A x 1.2 = 270A total. 200A main + 60A inverter = 260A < 270A. AOK.

 

[ArthurEld]

He's got a 225A bus bar in his breaker box, and a 200A breaker for the main. 225A x 1.2 = 270A total. 200A main + 60A inverter = 260A < 270A. AOK.

Thanks for verifying that Solar Queen

Looking more at the ground rods.....I think your main panel will require 2 ground rods itself and one for the sub panel and possibly another for the solark but if they are all really close to each other you might be able to do it with the 2 at the main panel...

Going crazy the array could need one also....again depending on how the wires are ran and where the components are mounted.

This pictures shows the grounding better. The newest manual for the outdoor version has a lot of changes. I need to read it again.

One suggestions for the AC Disconnect - Engineeer775 puts in a Double Throw Disconnect instead of the simple disconnect. In the Down position it bypasses the Sol-ark and feeds the Critical Loads panel from the Main breaker panel. In the Center position it cuts off all power past the Main Breaker panel. In the Up position (normal running position) it feeds the Sol-Ark from the Main breaker panel. With the double throw switch, if you have to take the Sol-Ark or down-stream systems down for maintenance, the critical loads still gets fed with a simple switch lever. Something similar to this double throw one - https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-60-A...-Double-Throw-Safety-Switch-TC35322/202978651

Also, you may need to show the low voltage wiring for the actual RSD switch/button & TIGO Transmitter. Right now it just shows the TIGO transmitter hanging out there. There is an output on the Sol-Ark that feeds the low voltage power to the transmitter and then also has a circuit for the RSD button/switch that emergency personnel would use to shutdown the panels. I think there's a schematic in the SA manual showing the RSD wiring.

The above picture also shows a transfer switch over by the meter that is probably similar to what you are talking about. That one is for a generator.

 

[ArthurEld]

The switch on my drawing isn't for rapid shutdown. That would require something like this Red Mushroom Emergency Stop

But Haugen is saying here that code in his area doesn't require rapid shut down- https://diysolarforum.com/threads/tell-me-about-solark.10922/post-170245

Seems like a big savings to drop RSD but I'll probably just get the big red button. That will need to go in the final plan.

 

[mrdavvv]

Very nice plan Arthur.

I have a question, have you ever find a MPPT efficiency curve in Sol-Ark documentation?.

Just wondering wich would be the ideal voltage / panel quantity for it. I think you have 307 /204 for your strings?

 

[ArthurEld]

Very nice plan Arthur.

Thanks mrdavvv. It's been a long time coming.

I have a question, have you ever since a MPPT efficiency curve in Sol-Ark documentation?.

Just wondering wich would be the ideal voltage / panel quantity for it. I think you have 307 /204 for your strings?

View attachment 30027

I have to be honest, I don't understand your question. I am not very knowledgeable about MPPT efficiency.
But I am learning more everyday.
I think SolArk claims to be the most efficient at everything. ?
The way I arranged the panels was to get the most sun but I know SolArk recommends a maximum of 9 regular size panels per string.

 

[mrdavvv]

More time developing = less time regretting bad decisions

I was talking about this: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/v...ency-out-of-a-mppt-controller.7073/post-74786

I think there is a certain voltage where the MPPT's are more efficient... for example in my old inverters it was around 80V (Max 145V)... but with a lower voltage comes a bigger voltage drop in the DC cables, so you need to find a balance. This was true with lower voltage MPPTs (150V)... but we are now talking about 400V so probably not that important.

BTW i was reading your diagram, im not very knowldgeable about big installations, but 2 questions:




- As the Solark has only 2 MPPT trackers, wouldn be better to use a combiner box, and from there send DC with a 4 cables instead of 8 of them? (Not sure about the distance between (N) box and inverter.. and not sure if this would work with your rapid shutdown)
- I see and SPD on the AC side, but i think its adviceable to also place one in the PV side?
- I think the inverter can supply 8000W in the load side, wich means it can draw around 150A from the batteries, are you limiting this somehow?, because that would call for a bigger cable.

Maybe you already checked all of this but im making a simillar plan so thats what im doing with mine.

 

[ArthurEld]

More time developing = less time regretting bad decisions

I was talking about this: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/v...ency-out-of-a-mppt-controller.7073/post-74786

I think there is a certain voltage where the MPPT's are more efficient... for example in my old inverters it was around 80V (Max 145V)... but with a lower voltage comes a bigger voltage drop in the DC cables, so you need to find a balance. This was true with lower voltage MPPTs (150V)... but we are now talking about 400V so probably not that important.

BTW i was reading your diagram, im not very knowldgeable about big installations, but 2 questions:

View attachment 30071


- As the Solark has only 2 MPPT trackers, wouldn be better to use a combiner box, and from there send DC with a 4 cables instead of 8 of them? (Not sure about the distance between (N) box and inverter.. and not sure if this would work with your rapid shutdown)

I don't know if there is a benefit to using a combiner box. I know each SolArk MPPT has 2 separate inputs.
SolArk says to use a maximum of 9 panels per string so I think combining more than 9 might be a problem.
I assume AltE knows what works best but I asked here just in case people had other ideas.

- I see and SPD on the AC side, but i think its adviceable to also place one in the PV side?

I will check about the SPD on the PV side

- I think the inverter can supply 8000W in the load side, wich means it can draw around 150A from the batteries, are you limiting this somehow?, because that would call for a bigger cable.

The Solark allows me to limit the current but I am setting my system to use cables large enough to handle 400A.
But I am using 4 batteries so the current will be 100A each.

Maybe you already checked all of this but im making a simillar plan so thats what im doing with mine.

I appreciate the input mrdavvv. Good luck with your plans.

 

[ArthurEld]

Thanks for all of the suggestions guys. Sorry I am so ignorant about these items that I am purchasing.
I have learned so much and I am learning more every day but it is impossible for me to understand everything ahead of time.
Many of the items questioned aren't supplied by AltE and they are just shown as placeholders. I have to buy the actual item and they don't need to be specific on the permit plan.

I am not sure if rapid shutdown is even required in FL. And it would save me $1100 to not use it. It is kind of hard for me to understand how it could be required some places but not in others. I guess firefighters must be used to dealing with it either way.

I am still deciding about the AC disconnect. I think the transfer switch I showed would do the job but I don't have that switch either. It doesn't come from AltE. So, I am still deciding what to order.

From what I have heard, there is quite a bit of flexibility in these plans. My solar installer friend told me they rearrange the solar panels all the time and it doesn't matter.

Of course I want this to be as accurate as possible, but things are going to have to change along the way. This is my first solar system.
I bought a 3000W all in one unit to practice with but that is all of the experience I have.

I think I worked out a lot of details ahead of time. Probably more than most people do. Most people just pay someone else to do it.
For me this is a never ending project.

 

[BobH]

I would ask the county electrical inspector that is familiar with residential solar if RSD is a requirement. I'm pretty sure in the Miami area/Dade county it's a requirement, so it's based on which NEC code version or what local exceptions are in place.

There may be a local rule that emergency personnel are prohibited from going on the roof. That would make any panel placement setbacks and RSD requirements unnecessary. Based on some of the installs I've seen driving around, the setbacks are rarely followed (if ever) so maybe roof access is not allowed for firefighters.

 

[ArthurEld]

Thanks Bob. I sent a message to the county building department. I don't mind paying for RSD if it is helpful. But there's no sense paying for it if nobody would ever use it.