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Solis Hybrid 5G inverter

FourFox

New Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2022
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7
Hi. I am designing my first domestic hybrid inverter installation for my house in the UK.
I am intending to use the new Solis RHI 3.6K-48ES-5G inverter.

Any thoughts on this choice?
It seems to have most of the facilities I require.
Dual MPPT with 600v max solar input.
48v battery input and charger.
97% efficiency.
G98 UK grid tied specification approval.
Affordable price.

I already have a Hypervolt EV domestic 7kW charger installed (for my Hyundai Ioniq5) and need to take advantage of cheaper off peak electricity.
 
Solis is very common inverter in UK/I region. I've been using RHI but 4G almost 3 years now. Good thing about them is that they have possive cooling soe no moving parts and are silent but may not be suitable for installation in tight warm places as they do get hot.
Why only 3.6kW? There are bigger models and prices are not that diferent.
 
UK grid tie regulations allow 3.6kW max capacity on G98 approval, which is a formality to get accepted by most ONS areas.
G99 regulations are required for larger capacity systems and need to be approved before installation and although this is usually not a problem, it can be a bit of a faff. I don't intend to export any energy to the grid if I can help it as the payments offered are just not worth the effort.

3.6kW should be enough in most seasons of the year if I can store surplus energy in a battery pack. I don't have any electric house or water heating at the moment as we have a very cost effective gas boiler. My EV electricity tariff will allow me to charge the battery between midnight and 5am for approx 20% of the normal rate if the solar input is not sufficient.

A 5kw solar array (12 Hyundai 410w shingle panels) will be easy to install on my carport roof without too much visible infringement of my property as I am in a city environment and the conservation area regulations are quite strict.

The big problem I have at the moment is the support frame for the solar panels has to be MCS approved to get the required certification. All the approved rail systems would look horrible on my nice new box section aluminum framed carport as they apparently have to leave a large air-gap between the solar panels and the roofing felted finish of the composite board rain cover. This is apparently necessary to avoid fire risk. I didn't realize the solar panels can get quite hot on the underside (I'm quoted 'up to 180 degrees C) which could melt the roofing felt and cause significant fire risk!

Any suggestions!
 
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What is the reason for for 3.6kW cap? Is it the maximum that you are allowed to export to the grid? If that is the case then you can cap export on the inverter itself and it will not export more. If you add larg enough battery and change your usage habits, you'll won't be exporting much at all.
Calculate your current average usage and usage patterns. Believe me it is never enough kW, go for max that you can. It is easier maxing from out from the start then adding later. I'm in Ireland, have 4.5kW with 20kW battery and wish I had more space on the roof to place more panels.
If it gets to 180 degrees then there is smth wrong. Glass transition temperature starts at 140. But yes panels do need cooling and the cooler they run the more eficient they are.
 
Here is a quote from the UK engineering recommendations, including the spelling mistake:

''If your solar PV or electrical storage system is to be connected to the National Grid, is to run in parralel with the grid, will shutdown during a powercut and is under 16A per phase (3.68kWp AC single phase, 11.04kWp AC three phase), then this is a most likely a Micro-Generator. Grid connections for Micro-Generators are carried out in accordance with Engineering Recommendation G98.
G98 is a simple connection procedure for Fully Type Tested systems under 16A per phase, systems are installed on an install and inform basis. If the Micro-Generator to be connected is installed in compliance with G98. The DNO can be notified of the installation under G98, up to 28 days after the commissioning date.''

It appears that the criteria of 3.68kW is the capacity of the system. A larger capacity (like 4kW) is not defined or approved as a micro-generator and would be classified as a Type A installation which covers 3.8kW to 1mW requiring prior approval via the G99 regulations, (despite the fact that it may be 'clipped' to a 3.68kW maximum export allowance) - a lengthy and cumbersome process.

I was also surprised to find that PV panels can get very hot. I was quoted a measured figure of 180 degrees (presumably Celsius) by my local registered installer who carried out a repair on some local roof panels during a sunny spell last summer. He used an infra-red non-contact thermometer and was measuring the heat of the underside of a PV panel. No wonder the panel was faulty. I would assume that all the soldered joints had melted!

Thinking about this some more a heat build-up is not that surprising. A good PV to electricity conversion is about 20%, the remainder of the sunlight power must either be reflected as light (probably less than 5% as the surface is black) or absorbed as heat, to be dispersed by radiation or conduction. On a 5kW medium sized array it has to continually disperse 4kw of energy. If an adequate airflow is not designed into the system the panels will get pretty hot. This is made worse by a flat roof installation (or a shallow slope) as the natural 'heat-rising' convection is not so effective as on a steeper slope. Also the aluminium supporting frame of the PV is mostly constructed like a shallow heat trap to the underside of the PV cells. (I wonder why at least some manufacturers might provide vent holes in the frame).

All this is not usually a problem concerning the roof structure under the PV array as the effect of sunlight directly shining on the roof without an array would be allowed for in the design. Apparently there is an appreciable increase in the risk of fire hazard, especially on tar-felted flat roofs.

Two other points now occurred to me. If the string array is faulty and not generating electricity, 95% of the sunlight is converted to heat.

PV panels are more efficient generators at lower temperatures.

Perhaps some more thought should be given to the installation and efficiency of solar panel arrays.
 
Just to add my little grain. When I got my solar equipment, I decided to get 3 smaller solis inverters instead of one big one. The price is very slightly more, but if one breaks, you still have two working ones left. You also can orient the different strings if necessary to your advantage, and possibly avoid having to buy optimizers in which case you may even save some money. I also balanced the number of panels I bought so in case of an inverter failure, I can still rewire all my panels to the two remaining inverters.
 
I have now been operating my domestic and EV charging system since April and it has been very successful during the summer months. I copy the PV output and total power usage daily from the Solis website and also copy the EDF grid supply from their smart meter. I then add the EV daily charging load (copied from the Hypervolt app) into a large spreadsheet which gives me a detailed analysis and graphic presentation of my usage. It also checks the cost of both electricity and gas purchased and forecasts the future costs. It shows that I have already saved about 50% on my bill for this 7-month period.

My hybrid inverter is a Solis RHI-3.6K-48-5G and I have 12 JA Solar panels with Tigo optimizers (the panels are partly shaded by trees). I have 2 x Pylontech US2000C batteries each with a usable capacity 2.28kWh. This gives me good capacity and efficiency during the summer months.

I have now purchased a Mean Well CSP-3000-400 switched mode power supply (thanks to suggestion from DIY solar power forum) (It should arrive from the USA via DIGI-Key tomorrow!) and intend to use my Hyundai Ionic5 with its external V2L dongle to power this equipment, giving the 400vDC output to the inverter via the second PV input on the inverter. This should enable the discharging of the 76.5 kWh EV battery to both run the domestic supply (up to 3.6kW load) and top-up the Pylontech batteries during the day, thus minimizing the use of expensive peak time grid power. I will charge the Ionic5 batteries using (hopefully) cheaper off-peak grid supply. It should also enable a substantial emergency power time (from the Solis EPS port) in case of a grid blackout (forecast in the UK this winter)

I am presuming that the inverter will be able to cope with both the 400v max PV input and the CSP-3000-400 output and will naturally select or combine the two dc power inputs! I can't find any data in the Solis manual on this. Both the PV array and the dc from the PSU will have separate breaker/isolators but both will normally be in the 'on' position. Does the inbuilt PV isolator on the Solis switch these 2 inputs separately or are they just joined together in the casing?

The big drawback of this arrangement is that I have to swap the Hypervolt charging cable to the EV with the EV V2L dongle every night and back again during the day. The Hypervolt charger will be programmed to only charge during off-peak hours. Another drawback is that I will lose 300w of efficiency during normal EV charging.

It would be nice to use just the one EV charging plug for both charging and discharging roles. I am assuming it will be possible to use the two small plug connectors to instruct the Ionic5 to operate either in charging or discharging roles without physically disconnecting it from the vehicle.
I think we have established on this forum that a simple resistor (I can't remember the value) will instruct the Ionic5 to prepare to discharge power via 2 of the main power connectors. Does anybody know what the charger does to enable the 'prepare to accept charge' routine?

The charger has an embedded Raspberry Pie processor which may be possible to handle this changeover routine. This is getting a bit out of my league, but I am prepared to learn something new! (or contact the boffins at Hypervolt).

In the light of the UKs continuing electricity price rises and the shortly to be introduced incentives to get paid for using off peak electricity this solution may suddenly become very popular over here!

Amy answers anyone?
Jon
 
I have today energized my Mean-Well CSP-3000-400 by plugging it in to the Hyundai V2L adapter and feeding the 400v dc output into the Solis hybrid inverter via the second PV string input. It works just as it should with 2.9kW 240vac input from the car and 2.69kW 48vdc flowing into the house batteries. Allowing for a small amount used by the house distribution board items (such as fridge/freezer or the odd light or so) that's about 300w (or 10%) losses, which is smaller than I anticipated (the grid input is cycling at less than 200w and solar input is near zero at this time). The switched mode power supply is working pretty near its capacity and the stated efficiency at this rate is 93%. This seems about right judging from the heat given out by the unit (must drill some cooling holes in the bottom of the cabinet).

I am now all set up to seek the cheapest off-peak electricity tariff that I can find. The Ioniq5 (and thus the house batteries) can power the house during peak electricity hours. I use about 8kWh/day for most of the year (plus gas central heating) and the 3.6kW output from the inverter will still be supplemented by the grid for loads that exceed this. These periods are small at present, but I can reduce them to near zero by using dishwasher and washing machine during off-peak hours.

The house batteries will be available for back-up when I need to use the car. My back-up power supply circuit from the Solis inverter is able to give an emergency 3kW emergency supply to the house during this winter's forecast blackouts. I already have my 2 freezers and a fridge connected permanently to this circuit. I must now extend it to include other essential items like modem, TV, microwave, lighting and socket for phone charging.

This is all achieved without the need for complicated phase matching or yet to be announced bi-directional Type2 or CCS vehicle charging systems (they will come). I am now working on a simple relay-controlled charging/discharging arrangement so that I can use the smart Hypervolt EV charger to charge the car during the scheduled off-peak period and feed-back to the house system the rest of the time, without manually changing over the plugs

Thanks for the help from this forum which gave me the idea for this system. It bl**dy-well works!

Jon
 
I have now been operating my domestic and EV charging system since April and it has been very successful during the summer months. I copy the PV output and total power usage daily from the Solis website and also copy the EDF grid supply from their smart meter. I then add the EV daily charging load (copied from the Hypervolt app) into a large spreadsheet which gives me a detailed analysis and graphic presentation of my usage. It also checks the cost of both electricity and gas purchased and forecasts the future costs. It shows that I have already saved about 50% on my bill for this 7-month period.

My hybrid inverter is a Solis RHI-3.6K-48-5G and I have 12 JA Solar panels with Tigo optimizers (the panels are partly shaded by trees). I have 2 x Pylontech US2000C batteries each with a usable capacity 2.28kWh. This gives me good capacity and efficiency during the summer months.

I have now purchased a Mean Well CSP-3000-400 switched mode power supply (thanks to suggestion from DIY solar power forum) (It should arrive from the USA via DIGI-Key tomorrow!) and intend to use my Hyundai Ionic5 with its external V2L dongle to power this equipment, giving the 400vDC output to the inverter via the second PV input on the inverter. This should enable the discharging of the 76.5 kWh EV battery to both run the domestic supply (up to 3.6kW load) and top-up the Pylontech batteries during the day, thus minimizing the use of expensive peak time grid power. I will charge the Ionic5 batteries using (hopefully) cheaper off-peak grid supply. It should also enable a substantial emergency power time (from the Solis EPS port) in case of a grid blackout (forecast in the UK this winter)

I am presuming that the inverter will be able to cope with both the 400v max PV input and the CSP-3000-400 output and will naturally select or combine the two dc power inputs! I can't find any data in the Solis manual on this. Both the PV array and the dc from the PSU will have separate breaker/isolators but both will normally be in the 'on' position. Does the inbuilt PV isolator on the Solis switch these 2 inputs separately or are they just joined together in the casing?

The big drawback of this arrangement is that I have to swap the Hypervolt charging cable to the EV with the EV V2L dongle every night and back again during the day. The Hypervolt charger will be programmed to only charge during off-peak hours. Another drawback is that I will lose 300w of efficiency during normal EV charging.

It would be nice to use just the one EV charging plug for both charging and discharging roles. I am assuming it will be possible to use the two small plug connectors to instruct the Ionic5 to operate either in charging or discharging roles without physically disconnecting it from the vehicle.
I think we have established on this forum that a simple resistor (I can't remember the value) will instruct the Ionic5 to prepare to discharge power via 2 of the main power connectors. Does anybody know what the charger does to enable the 'prepare to accept charge' routine?

The charger has an embedded Raspberry Pie processor which may be possible to handle this changeover routine. This is getting a bit out of my league, but I am prepared to learn something new! (or contact the boffins at Hypervolt).

In the light of the UKs continuing electricity price rises and the shortly to be introduced incentives to get paid for using off peak electricity this solution may suddenly become very popular over here!

Amy answers anyone?
Jon
Is the Pylontech the best option for RHI-(3-6)K-48ES-5G?
Looking to buy batteries as I live in Scotland and still export a lot for 3p which is a joke.
Any suggestion appriciated.
 
Is the Pylontech the best option for RHI-(3-6)K-48ES-5G?
Looking to buy batteries as I live in Scotland and still export a lot for 3p which is a joke.
Any suggestion appriciated.
There are plenty other batteries that you can buy.
I had pylons but then sold them and got 10kWh DIY pack.
 
Is the Pylontech the best option for RHI-(3-6)K-48ES-5G?
Looking to buy batteries as I live in Scotland and still export a lot for 3p which is a joke.
Any suggestion appriciated.
I don't know about the best option, but Pylontech are very commonly used with Solis RHI inverters. I've got two US2000Cs on my RHI-3K and would like to add a US3000C which would reduce my import to almost zero.
 
I don't know about the best option, but Pylontech are very commonly used with Solis RHI inverters. I've got two US2000Cs on my RHI-3K and would like to add a US3000C which would reduce my import to almost zero.
thanks
 
I don't know about the best option, but Pylontech are very commonly used with Solis RHI inverters. I've got two US2000Cs on my RHI-3K and would like to add a US3000C which would reduce my import to almost zero.
how about this one?
Pylon 4.8kWh US5000 Li-ion Battery
I have a winter peak of 10KWh a day on the best day and plan to discharge my battery over night into my electric car.
Wondering if during summer this might be up to 20KWh even in Scotland so might be 2 of that battery or is that too much?
 
how about this one?
Pylon 4.8kWh US5000 Li-ion Battery
Actually that's the one I wanted. Not the US3000C. I saw that type for sale for around £1600 recently, which is only slightly more than I paid for each of my 2.4kWh US2000Cs. Make sure it's the newer US5000C, not the old US5000.
 
Actually that's the one I wanted. Not the US3000C. I saw that type for sale for around £1600 recently, which is only slightly more than I paid for each of my 2.4kWh US2000Cs. Make sure it's the newer US5000C, not the old US5000.
I bought the smaller US3000C 2x as there was no 5000C,\Why is it important to get the C?
 
The C is newer and supposed to be better. That's all. You can mix C and non-C in the same array but in that case the Master must be a C.
 
The C is newer and supposed to be better. That's all. You can mix C and non-C in the same array but in that case the Master must be a C.
thanks, I read something about operating temperature (10-60c) and condensation/humidity (10-95%).
Does that means I cant put these in a outside shed for example where heating is not present?
We have -5 during winter but that shed is around 0-5 as it is right next to our main wall, also it can get humid inside...
as sometimes the concrete floor in that place gets salt excretion on top after a good rain.
I was hoping to put the batteries out into that shed but it seems I should not do such thing, not even on a platform.
Maybe in a waterproof cabinet?
 
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