Solor panels for Anker Solix F2000

[jsurm]

Can anyone here tell me if I get two of these solar panels and wire them in parallel cinfiguration will they work with my Anker Solix F2000

Hanwha Q CELLS 490W Q.PEAK DUO XL-G10.3/BFG BoS Solar Panel

Discover the Hanwha Q Cells 490W Q.PEAK DUO XL-G10.3/BFG Bifacial Solar Panel. Maximize energy output with dual-sided exposure, high efficiency, and a durable design perfect for long-term solar performance.

ussolarsupplier.com

 

[Andrewr05]

The F2000 has these input limitations -

11-32V 10A; 32V-60V 20A (1000W Max)

If you live somewhere where it gets cold then no I would not use those panels.

In parallel will work and will net you about 850W under perfect sun conditions.
BUT the 53.86 VOC is much too close for comfort in my opinion.

 

[jsurm]

When I talked to a tech at Anker he told me to try and get close to the 60V I'm not sure why though. This is all new to me. Thank you for your response. I also am finding that I can't buy just two of them anyway. I live in NW Indiana so it does get cold here. My search continues for panels that will work with my F2000.

 

[Andrewr05]

When I talked to a tech at Anker he told me to try and get close to the 60V I'm not sure why though.

in order to max out your unit, yes you do want to get as close to 60 volts as you can.

BUT your panels will create more voltage the colder they are.

 

[jsurm]

in order to max out your unit, yes you do want to get as close to 60 volts as you can.

BUT your panels will create more voltage the colder they are.

View attachment 252975

Okay, I understand now. I didn't know that the cold temperature would effect the voltage. Hey I can't thank you enough for responding to me with this information. Trying to find panels that will maximize my charging with absolutely no knowledge is very taxing...lol

 

[Andrewr05]

They don't make it easy to max out the solar input on power stations, it's like that no matter what brand you choose.

For your Anker you need to either find panels that are exactly 50V and run a few of them to reach the 20A rating OR get panels that are 25V and do a series parallel connection with them.

It can be quite confusing.

 

[jsurm]

So I decided to go with Q Cell 485w panels. According to Anker tech support, they're saying these panels will work. I just have a couple of questions. Wire size is one. I'll have to add an extension cable. Probably about 10 feet with an mc4 to XT60 connection. I'll post specs for both Anker F2000 and solar panels. If anyone has any thoughts, I would appreciate it.

 

[Andrewr05]

So I decided to go with Q Cell 485w panels. According to Anker tech support, they're saying these panels will work. I just have a couple of questions. Wire size is one. I'll have to add an extension cable. Probably about 10 feet with an mc4 to XT60 connection. I'll post specs for both Anker F2000 and solar panels. If anyone has any thoughts, I would appreciate it.
View attachment 255328

How many did you decide on?
Two will net you a max of 875, but probably closer to 780 on average.

As for the wire size, 14AWG should be adequate for 20A, though to limit voltage drop (even at 10ft; and you should buy a little bit longer wire than you actually think you need anyways) I would personally go with 12AWG.

 

[jsurm]

I decided to go with two so I wouldn't exceed the 60 V limit. It's very hard to find panels for the F 2000 I have been searching for weeks. This was the best fit I could come up with. As far as cable goes my buddy has a 15' 10AWG cable he offered me. Do you think that would be okay?
Thanks

 

[Andrewr05]

I decided to go with two so I wouldn't exceed the 60 V limit. It's very hard to find panels for the F 2000 I have been searching for weeks. This was the best fit I could come up with.

Two will work perfectly
But if you find your winter power intake lacking you could add a third and/or fourth panel in parallel and over panel your system.

As far as cable goes my buddy has a 15' 10AWG cable he offered me. Do you think that would be okay?

Yes, 10AWG is thicker than 14.

 

[jsurm]

Thank you Andrew appreciate your help.

 

[foofuzi]

Two will work perfectly
But if you find your winter power intake lacking you could add a third and/or fourth panel in parallel and over panel your system.

Yes, 10AWG is thicker than 14.

How many did you decide on?
Two will net you a max of 875, but probably closer to 780 on average.

As for the wire size, 14AWG should be adequate for 20A, though to limit voltage drop (even at 10ft; and you should buy a little bit longer wire than you actually think you need anyways) I would personally go with 12AWG.

So using the two Q Cell 485w panels in parallel would double the amperage which exceeds 20 amps, or no, or does it not matter as long as the voltage is under 60 and total watts under 1000?

 

[Andrewr05]

So using the two Q Cell 485w panels in parallel would double the amperage which exceeds 20 amps, or no, or does it not matter as long as the voltage is under 60 and total watts under 1000?

Amperage doesn't usually matter.
And the wattage is a byproduct of Volts x Amps. So as long as you give a healthy margin to your maximum voltage input you'll be fine. (especially in cold weather)

The listed maximum amperage in a specification sheet is almost always a specification letting you know that the unit won't "use" any more than that number, not that that is the max you can supply to it.

Voltage is "pushed" into a device.
Amperage is "pulled" into a device and it will only pull what it needs.

Picture it like running a 120 volt light bulb off of your outlet.
The bulb is only going to ever use maybe half an amp, but that outlet is supplying (depending on the type) 15amps.
If the light bulb actually drew 15 amps it would instantly burn out.

The bulb only uses what it was designed for.
You can go right into your circuit breaker panel and touch two bare wires to a light bulb with no fuses or over current protection at all and it will no differently than plugged into a lamp.

 

[foofuzi]

-- oops

 

[foofuzi]

Amperage doesn't usually matter.
And the wattage is a byproduct of Volts x Amps. So as long as you give a healthy margin to your maximum voltage input you'll be fine. (especially in cold weather)

The listed maximum amperage in a specification sheet is almost always a specification letting you know that the unit won't "use" any more than that number, not that that is the max you can supply to it.

Voltage is "pushed" into a device.
Amperage is "pulled" into a device and it will only pull what it needs.

Picture it like running a 120 volt light bulb off of your outlet.
The bulb is only going to ever use maybe half an amp, but that outlet is supplying (depending on the type) 15amps.
If the light bulb actually drew 15 amps it would instantly burn out.

The bulb only uses what it was designed for.
You can go right into your circuit breaker panel and touch two bare wires to a light bulb with no fuses or over current protection at all and it will no differently than plugged into a lamp.

Many thanks for the reply and clear description of what I was concerned about. It's really appreciated given my limited experience.

I live in So Cal and use 0 degrees C to check for potential voltage limit problems, even though it only gets down to the mid-forties at night in the winter.

Best of Luck to You