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Some ways to run a fridge on solar energy

lorenzom

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Joined
Oct 1, 2022
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12
Running a fridge from PV is not easy.
But there is one very interesting point: generally, the more sun you have, the more your fridge will need to work. So PV production is quite related to fridge energy needs. This is why I think that cooling is one of the best PV uses.

need storage
You don't have sun at night, so you need some sort of storage which could provide energy for this time, or more. Battery storage is the first one you can imagine. But it is expensive. Much simpler is ice storage: it's very cheap, quite effective, and never dies like a battery. Instead of storing electricity with chemical/electric losses from the battery itself, you just store cold in form of ice. If your fridge compressor is well dimensioned, it doesn't run all the time (perhaps 30%-50%, depends on many variables), so there is plenty of unused time left to freeze water. Just to show how effective it is: melting 1kg of ice gives 90Wh of cooling energy, which you could obtain with 60wh feed into the compressor (assuming Cop = 1.5 to achieve such temperature). Using a lead battery (45Wh/kg) with a conservative 30% discharge, you would need a 4kg battery!. So storing in form of ice is a must to go. You will for sure need a bit more inside volume to put your ice, which should be be near the cooling plate (evaporator).

efficiency always recommended
Then the fridge itself should be efficient, this means well insulated, because losses are continuous through the fridge walls. Insulation is what will give you more autonomy. Freezers with thick walls can be used. Best are chest fridges: you don't loose all the cold air inside every time you open them.

Big problem: driving the compressor
1-You can go for a DC compressor which can be run direct from battery (tried directly from PV: not recommended if PV is limited). There are some models of these ones: Steca, Sundanzer, and others. It is the best solution, somehow expensive. I bought such a fridge when I began to go offgrid: 160l inside volume, 20l of ice storage, it is still working well, and gives me 4 days of autonomy. Instead of buying a whole fridge, you could also replace the compressor with a DC one. You can find some kits with evaporator which supposedly can be mounted easily (for boats, vans,..), I don't know anyone who has done this.
2-Usual fridges work with the AC grid, and have a strong inrush current at start. If you want them to be run from an inverter, the inverter power will need to be oversized, could be by a 10 factor if not more. A bigger inverter means also bigger no load current: more energy just to run it for nothing . So if you want to limit these losses (and don't need the inverter for something else), you have to shut it down when you don't want the compressor to run.
An usual compressor is just a motor, so it can be run from a cheap modified sine inverter, as long as there are no electronics to feed (thermostat for example).

Putting all together
If you have your PV system: panels, charge controller, inverter, and the fridge with some ice storage, you still need a control system to: shutdown the fridge at night, start it when we want to, and stop it when all the ice has been build, or to protect the battery. This needs connection to :
- the charge controller (is the PV giving energy?, what is the battery charge status?)
- the inverter you want to control
- the fridge to get the temperature or thermostat status
and, of course a bit of logic which can be done for example with a little microcontroller arduino style.

Next post about my last (test) build, a bit extreme, but already working.
 
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Hmmmm.....
Methinks I don't understand the hypothetical problem Y'all postulated in your opening statement, that running a fridge on solar is not easy?
My off-grid cabin, including refrigerator, microwave, washing machine, etc, can run for several days before my panels need any help recharging the FLA battery pack to 100%.
The mini-split air conditioner, however, is different story...!
 
Problem with using ice is it is not cold enough. It is fine for refrigeration (though marginal depending on distance from ice) but to keep frozen foods at an ideal temperature you want -10F to 0F.

Can you coast with a deep freeze for several hours maybe a day before you have a problem? Yes. But even short warmups that modern frost free freezers have ends up with shorter overall storage times and quicker freezer burn.

I am presently running a 12cuft upright and 5cuft chest freezer from my Easun 3000w AIO. It starts and runs them without issue. My only problem if I was completely off grid is the amount of battery storage I have. I just added another 80ah battery this morning and I believe it will now carry me from one solar charge day to the next without pass through from utility needed. I will have to add in more panels than my present 900w and I have 300w ready to go. I will still need a backup though for bad weather days.

Incidentally I have wireless temperature senders in each freezer so I can keep an eye if problems develop.
 
Putting all together
If you have your PV system: panels, charge controller, inverter, and the fridge with some ice storage, you still need a control system to: shutdown the fridge at night, start it when we want to, and stop it when all the ice has been build, or to protect the battery. This needs connection to :
- the charge controller (is the PV giving energy?, what is the battery charge status?)
- the inverter you want to control
- the fridge to get the temperature
Wow!
I think you are overthinking this...

When designing my system, i put all the major appliances on a Kill a watt meter for 24 hours each and made a list of their consumption.
Sized the inverters to deal with surges and high draw items (microwave, coffee maker)
Sized batteries and solar to deal with 24 hour loads.
Examples: big Kenmore refrigerator - 2.02 kwh
Frigidaire freezer - 1.84 kwh
6k btu window ac - 6.4 kwh.
Lights, 2 computers, TV's, toaster, toaster oven, satellite gear, network gear...

Make a list. Define your requirements. Make data. Design to the data.

Bottom line. It's easy to run a refrigerator on solar.
 
Upright refrigerators are the most inefficient. The cold air falls out every time it's opened. Way back, I had an upright in my cabin that was plugged into a 1000 watt PSW HF inverter with 210 AH of golf cart batteries and 230 watts of PV. I never had a problem from it. BUT! I wasn't there everyday with 3 kids opening and closing it. I always figured if/when I go off grid, I'll do the YouTube chest freezer conversion with an external thermostat. The industrial control electrician that lives inside me says to use a timer that runs the unit colder when the sun is shining and disable it when it's dark. Or perhaps set it for a different temperature at night to kick on just in case.
 
Perhaps on really older models, however, both my freezer and my refrigerator have circulation fans that run more often than the compressors. And both units are about 10 years old.
 
And little vacuum pumps that run for about 10 seconds to ensure the seal on the door. That's how the units know if the door was left open.
 
The best I've been able to achieve is:

Energy- 160w panel
Storage- 100AH 12.8v LiFePO4
Location- Pennsylvania
Fridge- 7 cubic foot chest freezer
Temperature- 41°f (nominal)

It's been working since 2017 from spring through fall. In about 3 weeks I'll put it to sleep for the season since by then my harvests will be complete and I'll literally not need it until the first radishes and spinach harvests in March or April.
 
I just plugged in my new LG fridge. This is the data plate.

660F3B60-8B7D-41EA-95F0-5595B4C426A5.jpeg

No big inrush of power on startup. It started at 40 something watts and moved up. It will run on about 50 to 70 watts from what I’ve read and seen in testing by others. It is plugged into a meter now so I will be reporting back.
Not difficult at all. Plug it in and enjoy it!
It is NOT expensive either.
 
Running a fridge from PV is not easy.
But there is one very interesting point: generally, the more sun you have, the more your fridge will need to work. So PV production is quite related to fridge energy needs. This is why I think that cooling is one of the best PV uses.

need storage
You don't have sun at night, so you need some sort of storage which could provide energy for this time, or more. Battery storage is the first one you can imagine. But it is expensive. Much simpler is ice storage: it's very cheap, quite effective, and never dies like a battery. Instead of storing electricity with chemical/electric losses from the battery itself, you just store cold in form of ice. If your fridge compressor is well dimensioned, it doesn't run all the time (perhaps 30%-50%, depends on many variables), so there is plenty of unused time left to freeze water. Just to show how effective it is: melting 1kg of ice gives 90Wh of cooling energy, which you could obtain with 30wh feed into the compressor (assuming Cop = 3). Using a lead battery (45Wh/kg) with a conservative 30% discharge, you would need a 2kg battery. So storing in form of ice is a must to go. You will for sure need a bit more inside volume to put your ice, which should be be near the cooling plate (evaporator).

efficiency always recommended
Then the fridge itself should be efficient, this means well insulated, because losses are continuous through the fridge walls. Insulation is what will give you more autonomy. Freezers with thick walls can be used. Best are chest fridges: you don't loose all the cold air inside every time you open them.

Big problem: driving the compressor
1-You can go for a DC compressor which can be run direct from battery (tried directly from PV: not recommended if PV is limited). There are some models of these ones: Steca, Sundanzer, and others. It is the best solution, somehow expensive. I bought such a fridge when I began to go offgrid: 160l inside volume, 20l of ice storage, it is still working well, and gives me 4 days of autonomy. Instead of buying a whole fridge, you could also replace the compressor with a DC one. You can find some kits with evaporator which supposedly can be mounted easily (for boats, vans,..), I don't know anyone who has done this.
2-Usual fridges work with the AC grid, and have a strong inrush current at start. If you want them to be run from an inverter, the inverter power will need to be oversized, could be by a 10 factor if not more. A bigger inverter means also bigger no load current: more energy just to run it for nothing . So if you want to limit these losses (and don't need the inverter for something else), you have to shut it down when you don't want the compressor to run.
An usual compressor is just a motor, so it can be run from a cheap modified sine inverter, as long as there are no electronics to feed (thermostat for example).

Putting all together
If you have your PV system: panels, charge controller, inverter, and the fridge with some ice storage, you still need a control system to: shutdown the fridge at night, start it when we want to, and stop it when all the ice has been build, or to protect the battery. This needs connection to :
- the charge controller (is the PV giving energy?, what is the battery charge status?)
- the inverter you want to control
- the fridge to get the temperature or thermostat status
and, of course a bit of logic which can be done for example with a little microcontroller arduino style.

Next post about my last (test) build, a bit extreme, but already working.

How much power does your fridge draw? I don't see you mention "inverter-type" fridge. Ours is inverter-type 8 cu. ft., max draw rated is 85w, hooked up to our 1kw 12v 150Ah portable AIO, only draws around 50w at normal setting.
 
I just plugged in my new LG fridge. This is the data plate.

View attachment 114936

No big inrush of power on startup. It started at 40 something watts and moved up. It will run on about 50 to 70 watts from what I’ve read and seen in testing by others. It is plugged into a meter now so I will be reporting back.
Not difficult at all. Plug it in and enjoy it!
It is NOT expensive either.

Newer models use the R600A refrigerant which is better for the environment and also energy efficient.
 
Newer models use the R600A refrigerant which is better for the environment and also energy efficient.
Indeed.

But do you really want to be one of the first folks to put a butane-based refrigerator in a kitchen near a stove?

I'd be happy with it for an outdoor fridge but I'm not all warm and fuzzy thinking about using one in a kitchen.
 
How much butane could be in one? I don't imagine there's enough gas nor is a kitchen small enough to concentrate whatever it is into an explosive mixture. I suppose the condenser could leak in to an open flame, but that seems remote.
Indeed.

But do you really want to be one of the first folks to put a butane-based refrigerator in a kitchen near a stove?

I'd be happy with it for an outdoor fridge but I'm not all warm and fuzzy thinking about using one in a kitchen.
 
Indeed.

But do you really want to be one of the first folks to put a butane-based refrigerator in a kitchen near a stove?

I'd be happy with it for an outdoor fridge but I'm not all warm and fuzzy thinking about using one in a kitchen.

What is the safer alternative?
 
What is the safer alternative?

Traditional chlorofluorocarbons or hydrofluorocarbons.

Of course the first kills the ozone and the second is about the worst greenhouse gas ever conceived of.

I'm not saying there's an easy decision. I'm just not sure I want to be a guinea pig putting compressed butane near an open flame.
 
Yes, it is an ‘inverter compressor’. I just started the test, but others have seen from 40 to 70 watts in normal running condition. Defrost takes more of course, but only lasts for a few minutes.
I don’t intend to let the refrigerant out into the kitchen. It is not uncommon at all to run propane fired refrigerators in kitchens and campers. Too many worries about non-issues.
 
How much butane could be in one? I don't imagine there's enough gas nor is a kitchen small enough to concentrate whatever it is into an explosive mixture. I suppose the condenser could leak in to an open flame, but that seems remote.
Yes, it is an ‘inverter compressor’. I just started the test, but others have seen from 40 to 70 watts in normal running condition. Defrost takes more of course, but only lasts for a few minutes.
I don’t intend to let the refrigerant out into the kitchen. It is not uncommon at all to run propane fired refrigerators in kitchens and campers. Too many worries about non-issues.

I believe so too,

 
Yes, it is an ‘inverter compressor’. I just started the test, but others have seen from 40 to 70 watts in normal running condition. Defrost takes more of course, but only lasts for a few minutes.
I don’t intend to let the refrigerant out into the kitchen. It is not uncommon at all to run propane fired refrigerators in kitchens and campers. Too many worries about non-issues.

You're probably right.

At least we're not moving back towards ammonia as the refrigerant of choice.
 
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