Nevadablue
New Member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2022
- Messages
- 79
I have seen and read about soo many people having problems with fridges. Essentially because their inverter is not capable to furnish the inrush current, or because the battery discharges totally if for example you forgot the fridge's door open one night.Wow!
I think you are overthinking this...
When designing my system, i put all the major appliances on a Kill a watt meter for 24 hours each and made a list of their consumption.
Sized the inverters to deal with surges and high draw items (microwave, coffee maker)
Sized batteries and solar to deal with 24 hour loads.
Examples: big Kenmore refrigerator - 2.02 kwh
Frigidaire freezer - 1.84 kwh
6k btu window ac - 6.4 kwh.
Lights, 2 computers, TV's, toaster, toaster oven, satellite gear, network gear...
Make a list. Define your requirements. Make data. Design to the data.
Bottom line. It's easy to run a refrigerator on solar.
Yes, I am only speaking about refrigerating. Nothing to keep frozen at all.Problem with using ice is it is not cold enough. It is fine for refrigeration (though marginal depending on distance from ice) but to keep frozen foods at an ideal temperature you want -10F to 0F.
Can you coast with a deep freeze for several hours maybe a day before you have a problem? Yes. But even short warmups that modern frost free freezers have ends up with shorter overall storage times and quicker freezer burn.
I am presently running a 12cuft upright and 5cuft chest freezer from my Easun 3000w AIO. It starts and runs them without issue. My only problem if I was completely off grid is the amount of battery storage I have. I just added another 80ah battery this morning and I believe it will now carry me from one solar charge day to the next without pass through from utility needed. I will have to add in more panels than my present 900w and I have 300w ready to go. I will still need a backup though for bad weather days.
Incidentally I have wireless temperature senders in each freezer so I can keep an eye if problems develop.
My chest fridge is DC, so has a build in inverter, and you are right, there is almost no inrush current. For inverter AC fridge, could be it depends on the brand/model, I read about people having problems with high current draw at starting.How much power does your fridge draw? I don't see you mention "inverter-type" fridge. Ours is inverter-type 8 cu. ft., max draw rated is 85w, hooked up to our 1kw 12v 150Ah portable AIO, only draws around 50w at normal setting.
Curious what you mean by a factor of 10? Do you mean that if the surge of a fridge startup is 900W, then one would need a 9000W inverter? That doesn't make sense, as our 800W surge works fine (until the battery gets low/voltage sag) on a 2000W inverter.2-Usual fridges work with the AC grid, and have a strong inrush current at start. If you want them to be run from an inverter, the inverter power will need to be oversized, could be by a 10 factor if not more.
Cranking the temperature way down during the day and then turning off at night is a good strategy for coping with an excess of solar production and a lack of battery storage, as you are basically using the fridge as its own battery and storing energy that would otherwise go unused.Curious what you mean by a factor of 10? Do you mean that if the surge of a fridge startup is 900W, then one would need a 9000W inverter? That doesn't make sense, as our 800W surge works fine (until the battery gets low/voltage sag) on a 2000W inverter.
We have a 120V AC fridge "Avanti" brand that was highly raved about on RV solar forums. It draws 800W for 1-2 seconds when the compressor starts up, then instantly drops down to usually about 65-70W. I've seen it at 75W a few times and once as high as 90W, but usually around 65-70W.
Now when the fridge is first plugged in, it pulls 500-600W for about 5-8 seconds, then down to 0W, then in 2-5 minutes will do the normal cycle of 800W for 2 seconds, then 65-70W after that.
We have it plugged into a 2000W inverter. Usually no problems, but we have a gremlin either in our battery setup or cabling. I hope I now have the cabling fixed, I'll know in a few days when my wife returns to town with the trailer. And I think our battery gremlin is 1) not producing enough AH during daylight hours especially when traveling (flat roof mounted panels at 48-degrees north) and 2) not charging at high enough C-rate for a SLA battery bank, except when the AC charger is plugged in, which requires the generator (noise).
Now what I don't like about this fridge is there are zero fans in it. Using an infrared thermometer, with the fridge temp setting at 4 (midway), I will get 15-30F in the very back of the fridge, depending on where it is in it's cycle of cool/defrost. The items in the door will be about 38-40F and items in the shelves, even pushed back to the coldest back wall, will show 41-52F. Not a concern for me for camping for a few days or a week, but my food-sciences trained wife is growing grey hairs over this! I put a battery powered desk fan inside and it seems to help...a bit.
Since our system seems to be underpaneled and under-battery'd, I've thought about simply turning the inverter off overnight. Maybe crank the fridge temp up to 6 or 7 (the freezer got down to -20F when I turned it up to 7) in the latter part of the day to get it good and cold but while there's still sunlight out and then turn it down 2 hours before sunset and then shut it off 30 minutes before sunset. That's a lot of fussing around just to save some battery juice. We do have a generator, but the noise of it kinda defeats the point of the silence of solar. I doubt my wife would go for this plan, though, because likely the fridge internal temps would be in the 40's or 50's in the morning. This wouldn't fly or be safe in the hot days and nights of summer, but it could work in the shoulder seasons where the ambient temps are 70-80F in daytime and 30-50F at night.
Anyone else try or do this - turning off the fridge/inverter at night to save power?
lorenzom
2-Usual fridges work with the AC grid, and have a strong inrush current at start. If you want them to be run from an inverter, the inverter power will need to be oversized, could be by a 10 factor if not more.
How much power does your fridge draw? I don't see you mention "inverter-type" fridge. Ours is inverter-type 8 cu. ft., max draw rated is 85w, hooked up to our 1kw 12v 150Ah portable AIO, only draws around 50w at normal setting.
I had a devil of a time finding the actual draw on my Whirlpool Dryer. it’s not in the specs. The installation guide says use a 30A breaker but I know that’s excessive. I chatted with a support specialist who “confirmed“ it was 30A. After I installed Emporia and recorded the draw I found it was actually only 9A max at any time with again a fairly low inrush. plus they pulse the dryer coils, sort of a crude PWM, and don’t have them running full blast continuously.
I looked up their 1500W version. It draws only 9.6W at idle. Our 2000W Renogy draws 24W at idle. When battery capacity is short supply, that adds up quick!My 3000 watt AIMS inverter makes 6000 watt surge and has an idle draw of about 12 watts.
My 20 year old fridge draws about 1.8Kwh per day when started from ambient then goes down to about 1.2-1.5. (lots of variability here).
I looked up their 1500W version. It draws only 9.6W at idle. Our 2000W Renogy draws 24W at idle. When battery capacity is short supply, that adds up quick!
The only thing I don't like about the AIMS model is the USB output is limited to 1A, which is very small and it takes forever to charge a phone at 1A. 2.4A is the norm these days. Surely a 2.4A vs. 1A USB outlet can't be the difference in idle consumption? Otherwise, I would consider selling our Renogy and switch to the AIMS.
Good point on just using an AC usb charger, a decent one.I tried the Renogy 3k to save some money and didn't do half of the AIMS is capable and kept throwing false ground faults.
I am sure the AIMS isn't the benchmark for quality but it packs a serious punch. I can run the 1500 watt micro and exhaust fan, the fridge can be running along with a few hundred other watts of draw it will still start the dryer with barely any voltage sag. Neat.
Just get a plug-in USB charger or one for like a car and use that. I don't utilize the USB charger on the face inverter. It's down in a compartment and I can just plug in the ordinary household chargers into the outlets it's powering. Most built-in usb chargers on things don't work with the new phones anyway. Too many amps.
I looked up their 1500W version. It draws only 9.6W at idle. Our 2000W Renogy draws 24W at idle. When battery capacity is short supply, that adds up quick!
The only thing I don't like about the AIMS model is the USB output is limited to 1A, which is very small and it takes forever to charge a phone at 1A. 2.4A is the norm these days. Surely a 2.4A vs. 1A USB outlet can't be the difference in idle consumption? Otherwise, I would consider selling our Renogy and switch to the AIMS.