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SOROTEC REVO II 5.5KW Battery Bulk/Float Charging Setup

Coyang

New Member
Joined
Apr 10, 2022
Messages
5
Hi, I'm Jay from the Philippines.

I recently installed my Sorotec Revo II 5.5kw with 10 x 450w solar panels, 2 sets in parallel each with 5 in series. Now, I'm trying to charge my LiFePo4 48v/200ah (Blue Carbon) battery using the USER setting, BULK = 56V and FLOAT = 48V and nothing is happening.

But, if I set FLOAT = 56V it will charge! I don't get it! Shouldn't BULK CHARGE=56V charge it to 56V then FLOAT=48V just float to 48V after the BULK charging?
 
Your FLOAT seems to be too low. If you have 16 cells, it means floating at 3.00V per cell. It doesn't make sense for LiFePo4 cell. They should be floated somewhere 3.3-3.4V. I use config with floating at 3.375V per cell (54V total). On the other hand, it doesn't make sense to discharge your LiFePO4 battery under 3.0V per cell as there is less than 10% of energy under 3.0V. The inverter has to first detect that it has to start bulk charging (flashing charging LED). If the current voltage of the battery is above your float, it doesn't start bulk charging at all. The float charging is displayed as solid charging LED light. The bulk charging starts when voltage gets some undocumented diff below the configured float voltage (on different chargers known as re-bulk trigger). In this inverter, it depends on the firmware versions. In my case, I've noticed that bulk charging is triggered if my battery voltage is at least 1.0V below float voltage.
 
Hi Dave, thank you for your reply. I see now that FLOAT voltage setting tells when to charge the battery. And, per vendor's advice I set BULK=56.8V, FLOAT=56V (it's the settings for my battery according to them) and it started charging. I'm now trying different BULK and FLOAT settings to see how high the battery voltage can go within the lifepo4 limits. I'm just getting 53V-54V after charging.

I've attached the firmware here.
 

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Triggering of BULK is side effect of FLOAT voltage settings. LiFePO4 battery cycle is composed of several stages:
* discharging - let's assume low PV power which is not sufficient to power your load and inverter consumption itself (starting at about 80 Watts without load, then it is slowly increasing and consumes about 10-15% of power delivered to the load and to/from battery)
* bulk charging - battery voltage is under your bulk settings and thus charging is in constant current mode which is configured (by default max is 90A for this inverter). For sure, if there is not sufficient PV power only excessive PV power (remaining after delivery to the load) goes to the battery. Thus, charging current varies a lot depending on the current load and light condition on your panels
* absorption charging - battery voltage reaches configured bulk settings, charging current slowly decreases (battery is absorbing)
* float charging - after charging current in absorption charging goes under about 8A (this cannot be configured and again depends on your firmware versions), your PV delivers power to the load, batteries are settling down until they reaches configured float voltage. Then inverter tries to keep voltage of the battery around configured float voltage.

For LiFePO4 chemistry, floating (which could take many hours during the day, depending on your position) should not be above 3.4V because you are shortening the life of your batteries. Thus, I recommend to no to go over 54.4V for the float setting which gives 3.4V per cell for 16 cell battery.
 
I monitored the charging current and it decreased upon reaching the set BULK voltage, the lowest I measured is 2amps. I also noticed that when the charger "disconnects" or "stops charging", the battery voltage immediately drops below 54 volts, then jumps back to the FLOAT voltage. This is a learning curve for me and I want to get the most out this battery without shortening their life.

I found some parameters of my battery.
 

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Charging at 90v as Max...
The specifications sheet isn't thrust worthy...

Lifepo4 cells can be charged at max 4.2v without damage, and usually max voltage for the BMS is 3.75v.(Daly)

While there is a misconception that reaching 3.65v = 100% charged cell, keeping the cel for several hours (10-15) at 3.65 (or 3.75v) will charge it to 100% and it doesn't drop to 3.4v after a few hours.

As the % between 3.4 and 3.65v is so low (under 5%) and it takes a lot of time to reach the fully charged level.
Most don't bother going there.
Besides.. lifepo4 doesn't like 100% charge all the time.

Under 3v there is a lot more capacity.
And discharge till 2v is acceptable.
Capacity under 2.5v is also just a few %.
Most BMS stop at 2.25v discharge, after which the cell will bounce back to +2.5v.

People who have done capacity tests, and drained the cell really to the 2v maximal discharge know it will take several additional cycles after it bounce back up, to really reach steady 2v
.

The amount of ah that you can squeeze out extra is just a bit.
280ah cell, charged to 3.65v and kept there for a few hours (absorption) (after a day 3.4v) and then discharged to 2.0v (Bounce back to+2.5v) will get about 265Ah.
The "loss" of 15Ah is the top and bottom.

Not worth it to go search for those limits in a day to day use.

Charge to 3.55-3.6v, discharge to 2.8v as top and low setting.
(S16, so 16x 2.8 / 3.55 = 44.8 / 56.8v)
Keep the bulk (56.8) and floating (56.5) close to eachother, as those are "lead acid terms".
Please don't trust the display values, as they aren't totally accurate. Your battery will probably have a little higher voltage then the display shows.

Use a multimeter to know the offset, and adjust accordingly.
The units don't have a separate voltage sensing line, so during charge reported voltage will be higher then actual.

You will notice when your BMS will stop the charge, if it needs to do this, you have probably too high voltage set in the inverter.

It should not hurt the battery, BMS or hybrid!!!

Same goes for the discharge.
If your BMS needs to act, your voltages are too high or too low.

Other reason might be one cell that is not so good, beyond the scope of this answer.

You probably have figured it out by now, what voltages work best for you.

Others might have use for this answer :)
 
Hello everyone.
I have Easun REVO 2 inverter, and Lifepo4 100Ah battery attached. The problem is that my inverter, after charging full battery, mantain only few minutes float voltage, and after that start to drawn aprox 1 Amps from the battery, and till now at 50% discharge, is not charging my battery. User battery profile was selected. If I disconect the grid, and forcing inverter to work in UPS mode, after reconecting grid or PV, is starting to charge the battery. I tried also calibration software also, and manage to improve curent in voltage readings but with same behavior related to charging. Whaf should I do more? I whant to charge my battery when is neccesary, and PV power available. Solar priority is selected on interver. Please help with advices. Thanks
 
Hello everyone.
I have Easun REVO 2 inverter, and Lifepo4 100Ah battery attached. The problem is that my inverter, after charging full battery, mantain only few minutes float voltage, and after that start to drawn aprox 1 Amps from the battery, and till now at 50% discharge, is not charging my battery. User battery profile was selected. If I disconect the grid, and forcing inverter to work in UPS mode, after reconecting grid or PV, is starting to charge the battery. I tried also calibration software also, and manage to improve curent in voltage readings but with same behavior related to charging. Whaf should I do more? I whant to charge my battery when is neccesary, and PV power available. Solar priority is selected on interver. Please help with advices. Thanks
Easun is not a good brand OEM'ing Sorotec Revo II.

Their pricing is even lower then Sorotec, and this comes with a cost.

No existing after sales service and you are on your own.

Sorotec isn't a perfect product and especially using grid, it might not be the best choice.

Don't ask me why, and I have this only as "hear say", it requires to eat 140 watt continuo when connected to the grid.

To have any form of "normal functioning" it does require the CT module.

I assume you have this installed?

100Ah S15 or S16 is relative small capacity.
About 5 kwh.

I can't really help with grid connected installations, as we are living off grid.
+50kwh lifepo4, + 14kw on solar panels (43 panels)

Several people found it more useful to setup as "off grid", and use ATS to switch to the grid when the battery/solar is not enough.

ATS (automatic transfer switch) are usually used to switch from grid to backup generator.

In this setup the Revo is "grid" and the grid as backup for the Revo.

But...
With "just" 5kwh...
That's not a lot to work with.

Quality ATS are a few hundred bucks..
 
Easun is not a good brand OEM'ing Sorotec Revo II.

Their pricing is even lower then Sorotec, and this comes with a cost.

No existing after sales service and you are on your own.

Sorotec isn't a perfect product and especially using grid, it might not be the best choice.

Don't ask me why, and I have this only as "hear say", it requires to eat 140 watt continuo when connected to the grid.

To have any form of "normal functioning" it does require the CT module.

I assume you have this installed?

100Ah S15 or S16 is relative small capacity.
About 5 kwh.

I can't really help with grid connected installations, as we are living off grid.
+50kwh lifepo4, + 14kw on solar panels (43 panels)

Several people found it more useful to setup as "off grid", and use ATS to switch to the grid when the battery/solar is not enough.

ATS (automatic transfer switch) are usually used to switch from grid to backup generator.

In this setup the Revo is "grid" and the grid as backup for the Revo.

But...
With "just" 5kwh...
That's not a lot to work with.

Quality ATS are a few hundred bucks..
Hello again,

I have ATS already, but not this is the point. I have battery only for backup, when grid is unavailable, and to have a stable system. I'm using inverter to inject energy also to the grid. The problem, is that charging is not triggered when is needed. I have to switch BMS disable charge and enable... After that, inverter start to charge with aprox 20 amps. Regarding Easun support... They provide me calibration software and instructions, and ussualy they asnwer to my questions after 1 or 2 days, but not all asnwers are professional, that's right. And by the way... Sorotec not selling to my country.
 
You are lucky you receive answer at all from Easun.

Several members have met different faiths..

Charging can be at max 60A from the grid, 90A combined or solar.

If you need to play with the BMS to trigger an new charging cycle, that almost makes be believe the BMS might be at fault?

I usually advice to set the battery first to lithium, safe, exit, reboot
Then to user where the voltages are almost the same

2022-10-4 7-29-37.jpg
This works for me,where the voltage at the Revo II is seen a bit lower then actual battery voltage.

You can figure out what works for you.

I could have set 54.2 and 54.1v, I don't mind it dipping a bit.

20A charge on solar?
That is about 1000 watt on solar? 3 solar panels?

with the 140 Watt consumption of the Revo for being connected to the grid, the 75 watt consumption for being turned on to provide AC, and the 100 watt that is eaten away before MPPT starts to wake up....

Your panels and battery is "hardly enough" to compensate for the Revo own consumption...

Not to be a downer...
The 140w, 3.3 kWh per day usage for being connected to the grid isn't funny.

Then the 1.8 kWh for working as inverter...

And during daytime you are loosing 1.2kwh (100 watt) from solar panel production.

Easy to compensate with a few additional kWh battery and a few extra panels.
Overall the price of the Revo is good, especially compared to the big boys (Victron)
But it's not all sunshine.

In a small setup like this you might end up using more energy then the Revo + 20A solar panels can provide!



.
 
You are lucky you receive answer at all from Easun.

Several members have met different faiths..

Charging can be at max 60A from the grid, 90A combined or solar.

If you need to play with the BMS to trigger an new charging cycle, that almost makes be believe the BMS might be at fault?

I usually advice to set the battery first to lithium, safe, exit, reboot
Then to user where the voltages are almost the same

View attachment 115189
This works for me,where the voltage at the Revo II is seen a bit lower then actual battery voltage.

You can figure out what works for you.

I could have set 54.2 and 54.1v, I don't mind it dipping a bit.

20A charge on solar?
That is about 1000 watt on solar? 3 solar panels?

with the 140 Watt consumption of the Revo for being connected to the grid, the 75 watt consumption for being turned on to provide AC, and the 100 watt that is eaten away before MPPT starts to wake up....

Your panels and battery is "hardly enough" to compensate for the Revo own consumption...

Not to be a downer...
The 140w, 3.3 kWh per day usage for being connected to the grid isn't funny.

Then the 1.8 kWh for working as inverter...

And during daytime you are loosing 1.2kwh (100 watt) from solar panel production.

Easy to compensate with a few additional kWh battery and a few extra panels.
Overall the price of the Revo is good, especially compared to the big boys (Victron)
But it's not all sunshine.

In a small setup like this you might end up using more energy then the Revo + 20A solar panels can provide!
Nooo, I have 8x 450 w PV panels, but charging set at 20 Amps for battery charging. Inverter is feeding my house and excess is going into the grid. The only advice that I need, is how to set/calibrate my inverter in order to charge battery without my intervention, and 1 amp drawing all the time, no matter if there is power from the grid or PV. This is my problem... I used calibration software for coreccting display numbers for current in voltages, and midle point exactly how they describe, but no succes with this behavior related to charging. I have no comunication between inverter and battery, Can or rs232.
 

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Chaging is starting once I toggle BMS disable and after reenable from xioaxiang APK, or switching On/Off battery.
 

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Chaging is starting once I toggle BMS disable and after reenable from xioaxiang APK, or switching On/Off battery.
Thanks for explaining that part.

Funny to see that your Revo II isn't reporting the -1A.

Obviously you are loosing a few hundred watts looking at the total numbers of solar, AC, and actual consumption :)

I don't have grid, but when my batteries are fully charged, the solar panels produce what we consume.
And it drains the battery with atleast 1A.

It's a larger setup, and I leaned to live with the energy consumption of the Revo, counted me lucky I didn't have to worry about the 3.5 kWh drain of the grid each day.

If I understand you correctly, your battery voltage needs to drop to 52v (roughly 50% SOC) before it starts topping up again.

And you like this to start at higher SOC, so you keep maximal battery capacity at all times.

probably most cheap and simple solution:
double your battery capacity.

not what you like to hear, but the Revo will eat.

im not sure if it still will eat the 160w if the grid is not available.
it will keep using the 1A from the battery, have +/- 75W own consumption for being turned on as inverter,
And eat the first 100 watt from your solar panels before the MPPT starts working.

We are talking about 2kwh here for a backup installation..

Lifepo4 likes 85-90% as maximum charge to live the longest.

It likes slow cycles instead of static charge.

It doesn't like too deep discharge, keep it above 10-15%

And where all the numbers are optimistic, I like to calculate with 85% efficiency for using the stored enery from the cells.

most optimal 70% of your 5 kWh battery, (85 top, 15 bottom) x 85% , usable about 3 kWh.
Stretching it perhaps 3.5
If you don't care about damage and drain the last drop, 3.8 kWh?

Now there is a huge difference between being able to use 2 kWh (at a moment the battery is about 50% SOC/ 52v) and 3 kWh when it is at 85% (53.5v)

For led lights, 2 or 3 kWh is a lot.

For normal living, it's used up quite fast.
Refrigerator, all the standby equipment and chargers, TV/ laptop/ computer. Heating up some water for coffee or so...

Our 50 kWh is out of need as there is no backup.
But we easy consume 15 kWh a night (about 15 hours a day running of (partly) battery)

Sure, Thailand is hot, so the refrigerator needs to work harder, we don't have utility, using water is using electricity for the pumps.

Still...
2 -3 kWh is in my opinion a really small buffer.

Trying to optimise it will end up costing more then just have enough.


Thrust me, I've been there.

According to match 18 x 325w panels should be enough...
It wasn't.
Then added 9 more...
Eventually + 16 x 345w, now it's enough.

Original 16 x 200Ah deep cycle lead acid.

EASUN hybrid (not a Sorotec OEM but Voltronic) charged it with 78v...
That took a few weeks before all the batteries died.
Lead acid is strong ??

During that time I already discovered that it was crap, not enough usable energy stored.

EASUN demanded the 3 units back for resell, as is, defective and all...
I shipped to their agent in Thailand, and received 60% refund from Alibaba. (The duties and tax lost)
The €4500 loss on lead acid.....
Still waiting for them to compensate that!!!

I started with 3 x 152ah Eve lifepo4 after this, added 2 X 280Ah as 456Ah wasn't enough...

Then there was a fire...

Now 3 x 260Ah BYD
And 1 set of recovered 280Ah Eve cells

Yes, + 1000Ah is a lot.
50 kWh.

But when that is your only power source and there are days with only rain, you need to be able to do 3 days "without" sunlight.

I used to have my GPU mining setup to consume the energy we don't need, 500-1000 watt, depending on the weather.

That's history now due Ethereum changes.

The numbers all look nice on paper.
In real life you need to double it as there are "leaks" all over the place.

I'm actually surprised that you are worried about the 50 watt drain from the battery, and not the 160W drain from AC, with the current energy prices!!

To stop the drain of the battery, simply select "battery less" operation, and if the grid does stop, turn it back on again.

Note: you need to choose "lead acid" in the options, otherwise it won't start using the battery.
After this you can change it to lithium
Note 2: this is strangely enough S15, not S16.
But conservative enough to not drain below 2.5v

Or just increase the battery capacity.

Did you already test?
How long you can "live" of the backup power?

Doing your normal things as you normally would?

How long to you want to be able to "survive" when the grid has a probelm?

My experience might be different then yours, I thought I was conservative with my estimations, but it turned out to be way off.

Most other people I speak have this "wake up call" that it doesn't perform as they expected.

More panels and more batteries are usually the cheapest fix.

Be happy you don't have to deal with lead acid :)
That efficiency getting energy into it (you lose 20%) ,the amount you can take out (40%) , and the efficiency of that... (Lose again 15%)

Lifepo4 is near perfect, you can use 70% without probelms.
If you don't care about lifetime even close to 100%
And +95% instead of the 85% of lead acid ??

So much better.
Of the 100Ah you can use 65-75%...
At 85% efficient conversion to AC roughly 3 kWh.

That's not bad, but that is "all".

If you need more...
Increase the capacity.
 
Chaging is starting once I toggle BMS disable and after reenable from xioaxiang APK, or switching On/Off battery.
The numbers provided by the Revo are crap, I know this, that's why I installed Ammeters.

2100 on solar.
1000 goes to battery
300 to your home grid
And it feeds 700 back to the grid?

That's not too bad.

If you use ammeters (like you use the one from BMS) you probably end up seeing quite different numbers.

For solar can be a bit tricky to find good ones as most stop at 100v max.
Screenshot_20221006_184406.jpg
I use this one, max 600v and has a shunt build in.

Besides the first 100 watt being lost, the Revo is "accurate" up to about 3500w.

While it claims to be able to do 5500w, in reality it's 4200w...
It does show 5500 in the display, but making the other numbers (charge to battery and consumption) it simply doesn't add up.

The I formation that my AM meters provide (DC and AC) does add up....

It's not a bad unit...
It is China, and needs China margins.

A 400A rated breaker from China can handle a peak of 400A (if you are lucky) without melting...
Good to use up to 250A real life

Quality ABB breaker rated 250A can survive peaks way above 400A...

Usually 25% is a good "China margin".

5500w inverter, use max 75% about 4000w.
Yes once and a while a peak up to 5500 isn't a problem

Victron is absolutely more clear about it.
The 5000 watt can be used continuous at 20c environment temperature.
They even provide maximum loads for higher temperatures.
At standard Thailand temperature, 35c that is 3000w....

What also tells me that my Revo should not be loaded for a longer time (+15 minutes) above 2500 watt.

And they work without probelms, as long as I remember they are a China product with China price and China "special behaviour".

Easy compensated for the price difference of Victron by having some more solar panels and batteries.

Even the Victron 3200W consumers 50W for being turned on as inverter without providing AC (breaker disconnect)..
They don't show that in the specifications :)

(One of the videos of "off grid garage" showed this)
 
Thanks for explaining that part.

Funny to see that your Revo II isn't reporting the -1A.

Obviously you are loosing a few hundred watts looking at the total numbers of solar, AC, and actual consumption :)

I don't have grid, but when my batteries are fully charged, the solar panels produce what we consume.
And it drains the battery with atleast 1A.

It's a larger setup, and I leaned to live with the energy consumption of the Revo, counted me lucky I didn't have to worry about the 3.5 kWh drain of the grid each day.

If I understand you correctly, your battery voltage needs to drop to 52v (roughly 50% SOC) before it starts topping up again.

And you like this to start at higher SOC, so you keep maximal battery capacity at all times.

probably most cheap and simple solution:
double your battery capacity.

not what you like to hear, but the Revo will eat.

im not sure if it still will eat the 160w if the grid is not available.
it will keep using the 1A from the battery, have +/- 75W own consumption for being turned on as inverter,
And eat the first 100 watt from your solar panels before the MPPT starts working.

We are talking about 2kwh here for a backup installation..

Lifepo4 likes 85-90% as maximum charge to live the longest.

It likes slow cycles instead of static charge.

It doesn't like too deep discharge, keep it above 10-15%

And where all the numbers are optimistic, I like to calculate with 85% efficiency for using the stored enery from the cells.

most optimal 70% of your 5 kWh battery, (85 top, 15 bottom) x 85% , usable about 3 kWh.
Stretching it perhaps 3.5
If you don't care about damage and drain the last drop, 3.8 kWh?

Now there is a huge difference between being able to use 2 kWh (at a moment the battery is about 50% SOC/ 52v) and 3 kWh when it is at 85% (53.5v)

For led lights, 2 or 3 kWh is a lot.

For normal living, it's used up quite fast.
Refrigerator, all the standby equipment and chargers, TV/ laptop/ computer. Heating up some water for coffee or so...

Our 50 kWh is out of need as there is no backup.
But we easy consume 15 kWh a night (about 15 hours a day running of (partly) battery)

Sure, Thailand is hot, so the refrigerator needs to work harder, we don't have utility, using water is using electricity for the pumps.

Still...
2 -3 kWh is in my opinion a really small buffer.

Trying to optimise it will end up costing more then just have enough.


Thrust me, I've been there.

According to match 18 x 325w panels should be enough...
It wasn't.
Then added 9 more...
Eventually + 16 x 345w, now it's enough.

Original 16 x 200Ah deep cycle lead acid.

EASUN hybrid (not a Sorotec OEM but Voltronic) charged it with 78v...
That took a few weeks before all the batteries died.
Lead acid is strong ??

During that time I already discovered that it was crap, not enough usable energy stored.

EASUN demanded the 3 units back for resell, as is, defective and all...
I shipped to their agent in Thailand, and received 60% refund from Alibaba. (The duties and tax lost)
The €4500 loss on lead acid.....
Still waiting for them to compensate that!!!

I started with 3 x 152ah Eve lifepo4 after this, added 2 X 280Ah as 456Ah wasn't enough...

Then there was a fire...

Now 3 x 260Ah BYD
And 1 set of recovered 280Ah Eve cells

Yes, + 1000Ah is a lot.
50 kWh.

But when that is your only power source and there are days with only rain, you need to be able to do 3 days "without" sunlight.

I used to have my GPU mining setup to consume the energy we don't need, 500-1000 watt, depending on the weather.

That's history now due Ethereum changes.

The numbers all look nice on paper.
In real life you need to double it as there are "leaks" all over the place.

I'm actually surprised that you are worried about the 50 watt drain from the battery, and not the 160W drain from AC, with the current energy prices!!

To stop the drain of the battery, simply select "battery less" operation, and if the grid does stop, turn it back on again.

Note: you need to choose "lead acid" in the options, otherwise it won't start using the battery.
After this you can change it to lithium
Note 2: this is strangely enough S15, not S16.
But conservative enough to not drain below 2.5v

Or just increase the battery capacity.

Did you already test?
How long you can "live" of the backup power?

Doing your normal things as you normally would?

How long to you want to be able to "survive" when the grid has a probelm?

My experience might be different then yours, I thought I was conservative with my estimations, but it turned out to be way off.

Most other people I speak have this "wake up call" that it doesn't perform as they expected.

More panels and more batteries are usually the cheapest fix.

Be happy you don't have to deal with lead acid :)
That efficiency getting energy into it (you lose 20%) ,the amount you can take out (40%) , and the efficiency of that... (Lose again 15%)

Lifepo4 is near perfect, you can use 70% without probelms.
If you don't care about lifetime even close to 100%
And +95% instead of the 85% of lead acid ??

So much better.
Of the 100Ah you can use 65-75%...
At 85% efficient conversion to AC roughly 3 kWh.

That's not bad, but that is "all".

If you need more...
Increase the capacity.
I don't think I was to clear. I don't mind about self consumption off inverter itself, my problem is that battery is drained slowly by inverter, since AC and PV are available and enought. My expectation was to have a small backup available for my house for at least 3-6 hours. And in case I'm not at home, there is nobody to switch from no battery to battery again, i know, refrigerators and other things. My expectation is to have a battery mantained floated, and recharge when Solar is available. I don't want to stay on battery on normal conditions. I'm feeding into the grid excess energy, and get back on night time, this is how work my contract. If I don't eat that energy, they five you money back (at lower price), but it's ok. So no reasson to cicle the battery, and no backup.
 
"So no reasson to cicle the battery, and no backup"

Is not the outcome I would take from it.

Yes, draining 24ah per day isn't nice.
And every 2 days you have an half full battery.
3-4 other days between half and total full .

So during blackout 3 up to 6 hours, depending on where the "drain" cycle is.

Stopping the drain cycle isn't really an option, apparently it's designed this way, like it is designed to eat 160W when connected to the grid.

That it does cycle the cells down to 50% (might be higher) doesn't make it un-usable, just less then you hoped for.

I don't know what country you live in.
If it's "Western Europe" power outages are rare, and usually fixed in a few hours..

Asia Pacific more regular, and out for several hours up to several days
 
Hi. I'm in Central Europe. Below you can find Easun explanation:
"During charging. It is the floating charge stage. The customer disconnected the battery for the second time, and then checked that it was to start charging again. This process should be very short. When the inverter recognized the battery, it directly charged the battery, and then recognized that the voltage was close to the range of floating charging voltage. It must be the third stage again, that is, the charging current was very small, and this process had at least a reaction time"
 

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Hi. I'm in Central Europe. Below you can find Easun explanation:
"During charging. It is the floating charge stage. The customer disconnected the battery for the second time, and then checked that it was to start charging again. This process should be very short. When the inverter recognized the battery, it directly charged the battery, and then recognized that the voltage was close to the range of floating charging voltage. It must be the third stage again, that is, the charging current was very small, and this process had at least a reaction time"
Good morning from Thailand:)

Yes, that is a perfect explanation of how a LEAD ACID charging cycle works.

Henceforth, the option to choose between "standard lead acid" and "Lithium"

If your setup uses the LA cycle when set to "user" voltage setting, you perhaps did not select "lithium" first (safe, exit, reboot, confirm Lithium charge cycle, what is S15,so maximal 54.75v as maximal charge voltage).

As mentioned before, sometimes it doesn't enact the new setting but does show it in the display.

You might have selected it, but it did not enact.
Confirmation is important.

After you have confirmed lithium charge profile is working (and as we all know lithium has way smaller voltage difference between 40 and 80% SOC then LA), and you aren't satisfied with the level of charging (probably because you have S16 and not S15) you can set it to "user" and to a higher voltage.

Also this isn't guaranteed to enact.

I had one time it "reverted back" to lead acid charge cycle voltages (58.4v)... That didn't make my lithium cells happy.
Good thing there are BMS to can stop overcharge:)
 
Good morning from Thailand:)

Yes, that is a perfect explanation of how a LEAD ACID charging cycle works.

Henceforth, the option to choose between "standard lead acid" and "Lithium"

If your setup uses the LA cycle when set to "user" voltage setting, you perhaps did not select "lithium" first (safe, exit, reboot, confirm Lithium charge cycle, what is S15,so maximal 54.75v as maximal charge voltage).

As mentioned before, sometimes it doesn't enact the new setting but does show it in the display.

You might have selected it, but it did not enact.
Confirmation is important.

After you have confirmed lithium charge profile is working (and as we all know lithium has way smaller voltage difference between 40 and 80% SOC then LA), and you aren't satisfied with the level of charging (probably because you have S16 and not S15) you can set it to "user" and to a higher voltage.

Also this isn't guaranteed to enact.

I had one time it "reverted back" to lead acid charge cycle voltages (58.4v)... That didn't make my lithium cells happy.
Good thing there are BMS to can stop overcharge:)
Good morning!
The problem is that, if I chose Lithium, inverter expect some comunication on Can, or RS232, and my battery protocol is rs485, so is not detecting anything and simply disable the battery on the screen. So only User define should work in my case. I don't understand what you mean by "safe"?! Maybe SAVE.... Anyway.... I tried several time Easun procedure and offcourse, floating is mantained only few minutes, and start to drain again with - 1A.
 
Good morning!
The problem is that, if I chose Lithium, inverter expect some comunication on Can, or RS232, and my battery protocol is rs485, so is not detecting anything and simply disable the battery on the screen. So only User define should work in my case. I don't understand what you mean by "safe"?! Maybe SAVE.... Anyway.... I tried several time Easun procedure and offcourse, floating is mantained only few minutes, and start to drain again with - 1A.
Indeed, I mean save..

No, that is a wrong assumption.
The lithium setting CAN communicate via "can bus protocols" (who are actually not a standard, so you might need to program the BMS to provide the information in the "correct" way for Revo II to understand.

Can communicate, doesn't need to communicate.

It does give different charge settings then lead acid.

Sadly while it shows in the display as being saved..
It isn't always enacted.

Sometimes you need to set 3 or 4 times before the expected behaviour takes place.
Till then.. charge to 58.4v....
What is obviously not S15 lithium ???

Once confirmed working, next step can be to use user, what is now in the lithium charge cycle.

I have some offset from the battery voltage and what the Revo II sees "measures".

One of my 3 is set to Lithium, the other 2 on user, after confirming lithium cycle is working, just a little bit higher than standard "Lithium S15"

It looks like you are still in Lead acid charge cycle mode.
 
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