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Sorotec REVO II 5,5Kw / EASUN( AXPERT/POWLAND) IGRID VE II 5,5KW

Hello, please help and advice, I bought an inverter REVO II - igrid ve ii 5.5k, from aliexpress POWLAND Official Store. I installed everything and the inverter works without a problem for 4 months until the touch screen stopped working. The inverter works by restarting the system the display lights up but cannot be controlled after the display goes out it cannot be turned on. I contacted the store where I bought the inverter, writing the case, but so far I have no answer from them. Would you point me to where I can buy a display? I am very disappointed with the maintenance of the store, тhey redirected me to EASUN POWER from where there is no answer to my inquiry for seven days.
Yeah, sure.

Sorotec is the company building the units.

They have 2 websites..
(Don't ask me why..)

Email: sales@soroups.com

And

Email: ups@soroups.com


I receive their sales mailings from:
Email: ella@soroups.com

Last one will probably reply, but never hurts to make your first email to all 3 :)

I have the file only as Docx, and that format can't be used...
So it's a zip :)

I recognize this behaviour, I have had it as well. :-(..

Firmware update did fix it for me.

In between time, playing with the one-off switch often brought it back to life .
Not ideal, but for now doable in-between solution.
I have to say that I also replaced the one-off switch as it stopped working with that trick after a few months..
(Normally you don't need the display, when it's working fine.
As I'm curious what's happening..
I did the trick a lot ..)

That might have been the fix also...


Both not hard to do.
See previous post for needed files.
The J-Link programming unit is about $7.5

From China, probably locally available also (In your country)

Same for the standard DC switch, just soldering 2 wires..
Can't much go wrong there :)
 

Attachments

  • Revo II replacement parts guide-1.zip
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Yeah, sure.

Sorotec is the company building the units.

They have 2 websites..
(Don't ask me why..)

Email: sales@soroups.com

And

Email: ups@soroups.com


I receive their sales mailings from:
Email: ella@soroups.com

Last one will probably reply, but never hurts to make your first email to all 3 :)

I have the file only as Docx, and that format can't be used...
So it's a zip :)

I recognize this behaviour, I have had it as well. :-(..

Firmware update did fix it for me.

In between time, playing with the one-off switch often brought it back to life .
Not ideal, but for now doable in-between solution.
I have to say that I also replaced the one-off switch as it stopped working with that trick after a few months..
(Normally you don't need the display, when it's working fine.
As I'm curious what's happening..
I did the trick a lot ..)

That might have been the fix also...


Both not hard to do.
See previous post for needed files.
The J-Link programming unit is about $7.5

From China, probably locally available also (In your country)

Same for the standard DC switch, just soldering 2 wires..
Can't much go wrong there :)
Thanks for the reply, I will wait a few more days and if they do not take any action from the store I will contact Sorotec. I am very disappointed with the support of POWLAND Official Store.
 
AliX...
Everyone is "official" and "professional" :)

I wouldn't wait more days.

Where are you from? (Country)
I do have a display leftover, if you want, we can swap.
(Naturally, you need to pay for postage)

From Thailand to global is about $35 for courier like FedEx, and $20 for normal transport (Takes a few weeks)

As China is "third world" their postage fees are crazy low.
As you need to return your unit, if might be cheaper to buy from Sorotec.

If you are stuck and need help..
I have a spare, but need your old one back :)
 
AliX...
Everyone is "official" and "professional" :)

I wouldn't wait more days.

Where are you from? (Country)
I do have a display leftover, if you want, we can swap.
(Naturally, you need to pay for postage)

From Thailand to global is about $35 for courier like FedEx, and $20 for normal transport (Takes a few weeks)

As China is "third world" their postage fees are crazy low.
As you need to return your unit, if might be cheaper to buy from Sorotec.

If you are stuck and need help..
I have a spare, but need your old one back :)
I am from Bulgaria, thank you very much for your cooperation. I will try to contact Sorotec if there is no result I can take advantage of your offer. Can you indicate on the printed circuit board on the display where exactly which element is the DC switch? I think I will be able to replace it.
 
The display board and the power switch are not directly connected.

Power switch has 2 longer wire coming from the main board to the switch (+/- 40 cm)

Also from the main board, 2 other wires (different location,) provide the power to the display.

Please follow the guidelines as written above, colour the plugs so you are sure each goes back to the original location.

Mixing 2 will result in a new to buy display and MPPT board.
Perhaps more....

Bulgaria will be indeed about $35, via fastahip.co
 
The display board and the power switch are not directly connected.

Power switch has 2 longer wire coming from the main board to the switch (+/- 40 cm)

Also from the main board, 2 other wires (different location,) provide the power to the display.

Please follow the guidelines as written above, colour the plugs so you are sure each goes back to the original location.

Mixing 2 will result in a new to buy display and MPPT board.
Perhaps more....

Bulgaria will be indeed about $35, via fastahip.co
I received an email from the store that an engineer will look into the case, I hope they replace the display under warranty without sending the inverter to China. I will write about the further development of the case. Fhorst, thanks for your cooperation!
 
I received an email from the store that an engineer will look into the case, I hope they replace the display under warranty without sending the inverter to China. I will write about the further development of the case. Fhorst, thanks for your cooperation!
Return the inverter back to China would cost you several hundred euro's, plus you can pay tax again when it returns.

Change the display is really easy.
3 X unscrew 4 screw.
First the 4 hex on the outside.
Then you have the front panel including the display free ( except the cables, I told you about, colour code them!!)

Pull out the cables (wiggle, they have some "glue")

Remove the 4 screws on the inside of the front panel, you have the screen and bracket.

Remove 4 screw from bracket, you'll need the bracket for the new screen

And put humpty Dumpty back together :)

What is your display version ?

When you start and the display is accessable, on the "about"
 
Return the inverter back to China would cost you several hundred euro's, plus you can pay tax again when it returns.

Change the display is really easy.
3 X unscrew 4 screw.
First the 4 hex on the outside.
Then you have the front panel including the display free ( except the cables, I told you about, colour code them!!)

Pull out the cables (wiggle, they have some "glue")

Remove the 4 screws on the inside of the front panel, you have the screen and bracket.

Remove 4 screw from bracket, you'll need the bracket for the new screen

And put humpty Dumpty back together :)

What is your display version ?

When you start and the display is accessable, on the "about"
The touch screen does not work to see the exact version of the display. ::)
I think it was lcd version: V1.3.2 2020-06-22
link video of the problem 1
link video of the problem 2
Replacement is really easy, as long as there is a working part! :)
 
Version doesn't really matter that much, unless you have multiple Revo II units that you want to use in parallel or 3 phase, then it must be the same version..
 
I just watched your video.

Different then my old problem.
For me the display didn't start again after it go info sleep modus.

Unless toggle with the power switch.
Then it was turned in, it did respond as normal.

Yours doesn't.
= Really broken...

Does need replacement.
 
Interesting thread. Some great info!! New to this forum & my first posting. I had intended a few more questions, but maybe this is enough for now.

My system comprises 14 nominal 345W PV panels connected in two parallel strings of 7 panels per string. A Sorotec Revo II 5.5kW, 48V and 16 LifePo4 batteries in a ‘48V’ battery bank.

I live in Thailand (as I see user fhorst does)…at the Southern end … Phuket. System has been installed since about beginning of June 2021. My background is engineering. Electrical, Controls, Instrumentation. Although I’ve forgotten a lot!

I have some questions (Question 1, Question 2 etc) mainly related to setting up the inverter. Also included some comments to a few comments in the thread.

Firstly, software/firmware currently installed is per the pic.

Revo II About.jpg

Question 1: Does Sorotec provide updated software/firmware AND details of the ‘fixes’ associated with each update? I note from postings that updating software/firmware may not be a simple operation and therefore it would be useful to know details of the ‘fixes’ and/or advantages of any update.

From MikeSolarPT: “This inverter doesn´t like to work with a PV array with Open Circuit Voltage over 300volts.”

My PV array has an O/C voltage of 375volts and seems to work fine. Whether this is to do with my Rev Level, I don’t know. The manual I have states max O/C voltage of 450V.

From MikeSolarPT: “If you are working with LIFEPO4 cells, in the battery menu, select USER and define Bulk and Float”

The defaults for Bulk and Float are 56V and 54V (48V System).

Question 2: What Bulk and Float voltages do folks recommend? I selected 58.4V for Bulk and left Float at 54V. The 58.4V was based on reading recommended cell cut off voltages of 2.5 to 3.65V. 16cells x 3.65 = 58.4V as max charging voltage. I’m assuming that the 56V and 54V default voltages are ‘safe’ charging level voltages. Thoughts on 58.4V as Bulk and should I increase Float to say 56V??

From BleedingBlue: A comment that running the inverter(s) in parallel didn’t work without batteries. I read in the manual “All inverters must share the same battery pack when paralleling.” fhorst also elaborates on this.

From fhorst: “Also, grounding of the solar array can not be shared.”

I was under the impression that PV panels should not be grounded in any way. Even with my PV array giving an O/C voltage of 375V I rationalized that as the voltage source was isolated from ground, (essentially ‘floating’), that touching one of the PV terminals would not be a problem as no current could flow through me to ground and back to the PV string. I tried it and am still here. Touching both terminals would be quite a different thing of course.
 
Question 2: What Bulk and Float voltages do folks recommend? I selected 58.4V for Bulk and left Float at 54V. The 58.4V was based on reading recommended cell cut off voltages of 2.5 to 3.65V. 16cells x 3.65 = 58.4V as max charging voltage. I’m assuming that the 56V and 54V default voltages are ‘safe’ charging level voltages. Thoughts on 58.4V as Bulk and should I increase Float to say 56V??
Adjust the bulk voltage down from 58.4 to 56V, 54V float should be fine.
 
@DanBo welcome to the forum!!

First I sadly need to disagree with @Wibla it's bulk setting, not float.

I have my settings at 58v.
Absorption at 57v
That is with the offset the Revo sees the Battery.
(It does not see 55v as 55v, all 3 see slightly different voltage.

If it sees as 54.5, my 58v is 57.3v as setting.

At 58v the batteries are nicely charged to 3.60 with almost no difference.

LiFePO4 needs absorption.
Cutting it off at 3.4v will take ages to reach full

What doesn't have to be a bad thing, charging to 90% will increase the total lifespan.
But "never" charge to top, will give your balancer a lot of work when you do it.
(Like once every 3 months)

Some will find 57v too high.
I would not mind if it's 58.
There is absolutely no problems for the LiFePO4 cells to be charged 3 or 4 hours at 3.6v.
That's what we talk about.
After noon (sunny season before noon) the batteries are fully recharged.
Around 16.00 the sun isn't powerful enough to provide our usage .
(Sunny season 17.00)

That's all the time it's fully charged.
And if it needs to balance, something it only does above 3.5v, that's the time it has

With average balance power of 0.1A of most BMS, those 4 hours give you 0.4-0.6A space of imbalance to be corrected...

Especially if you charge full every 3 months, you have several amperes imbalance, what will take a week or longer to correct...

And..
No problems to have 3.6 volt absolutely none.
You don't get the bonus cycles, that's all.

Many people are way to scared to "overcharge" and think they damage the cells at 3.75v..
Wake-up call: they are safe till 4.2v overcharge.
That is charge, not keep at 4.2.
You can keep them without problems at 3.75, most dumb Daly BMS have that as high cut-off.
(And 2.25 as low)

Sadly..
No. No updates....

Not that's a bad thing, usually.
I can't say I ever received firmware update for my microwave, calculator, refrigerator or smart airconditioning.
Not even my "smart" car computer...

You need to understand that the computer technology in an inverter is really limited.
Cosmetic there might be some changes, the core stays 95% of the time unchanged.

In the beginning, 2019 there where some software bugs that needed to be fixed.
Since half 2020, only cosmetic.

The last update, did improve the parallel function, but does also require a new controller board.
For that one, the firmware isn't available.
Price isn't too bad if you feel you need.
Parallel works fine with my "old" controller board.

The latest Mppt boards can do 5500 watt, not a firmware update.
Also, not that crazy expensive to replace if you need.

Sorry, wrong information.
Different type of Sorotec can do 5500 watt, the Revo II has 5000 max MPPT, no matter what EASun will promise you....

****

Grounding solar panels.
Some panels need to be grounded, others absolutely should not!

Most have aluminium frame, the frame mounted on aluminium rails, and the rails to a house or ground construction, usually iron...
That is in concrete => grounding..

I just parrotted what the manual writes, and it seems to be important.(according to Sorotec)
Not enough engineer to know why.

I do know...
Do NOT (!!) touch the negatieve solar wire coming out of the Revo...
You'll be hit with 450v. That will hurt!
And the Mppt board will stop working.

(I replaced a breaker at night, and thought it was safe to do with the inverter turned on, no power from sun, yes?? ..... Not safe at all)

I like the Revo II.
For 15% of the price of a Victron quattro... It does a whole lot of things good.

Yet, it's not Mercedes class Victron, and the 2 should not be compared for fine-tune things.
 
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Thanks guys for the responses. I'll be back tomorrow with a few more questions. I guess one of the main ones will be does the Revo II "smart battery charge design for optimized battery performance" (words from the Manual 2.1 Features) mean that with the Revo II I do not get any real benefit from adding a BMS like Daly, Chargery etc....??

And PS...it was the +ve solar wire I touched, not the -ve. Electrically would it make a difference???

Dan
 
So will these inverters properly do zero export? Will they allow the loads to use power (above the inverters max output) from the grid without bypassing? Can they use solar+batteries to power main panel loads and at the same time allow the grid to supply the excess power the loads might night that is above the inverters max output without bypassing?
 
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@DanBo it makes all the difference if the Revo II was turned on, and if you are closing a circuit.
Closing a circuit will make the power run via your body.
If you didn't feel anything, you didn't close a circuit.

Let me be clear:
All inverters have no benefit from talking to a BMS.
No exception.

Simple reason, they should perform excellent without communication, as most BMS and Lead acid does not provide additional information.

And what information would it need??
Total Voltage it already knows.
Individual cell voltages, it doesn't care, that's the job of the BMS!!

What does it do?
Show the BMS information on the screen. That's all.

And perhaps.... It can use the voltage readings of the BMS to calibrate its own sensor...
But be realistic, would you thrust any unknown sensor that is able to provide information??
Why thrust that information above your own sensors???

In combination like Victron, if they would have BMS, that would make sense.
All other brands are not thrusted.

@Cheap 4-life
You are confusing me with your question.

What this (and almost all hybrids) inverter does, is use grid or solar to charge battery, and use grid, solar and battery to provide AC power, up to its own rating.

A 5.500 watt inverter can handle spikes up to 6.500 for half a minute or so, short spike (start engine) higher.
That is...
If the power is provided by a combination of solar or battery.
Grid alone, that will automatically stop at 5500 watt.
Resettable fuse needs to be reset.

So it can eat maximal 5500 from the grid but can provide higher peaks with "own" power.

The build in battery (super capacitors) are big enough to deal with the peak of starting an engine, not large enough to handle half a minute over loads.
 
Right, that’s what “most do”. For me I’m looking for hybrids that can supply their max power to the main panel and those loads can still take however much extra power (above the inverters max output) that they need.
I would be using renewable charging from DC-solar only
 
Right, that’s what “most do”. For me I’m looking for hybrids that can supply their max power to the main panel and those loads can still take however much extra power (above the inverters max output) that they need.
I would be using renewable charging from DC-solar only
Then you aren't looking for an hybrid, but a grid tied inverter.

The ones who act as you describe are called grid tied :)

Some grid tied also have battery option.
Most don't.

Grid tied will feed excess power to the grid.
Some might be able to stop this, most don't.
 
@fhorst Thanks! I guess my thinking about a BMS was trying to understand the 'performance' of my battery bank. 16 x 200AmpHr x 48V is supposed to be 9600kWHr. I don't expect I'm getting all that, but how to know what I am getting out of the battery bank. Is it being used most effectively....?
 
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