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SRNE 240V trouble

xbr2

New Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2024
Messages
20
Location
USA
I've had 2 SRNE inverters for a while now and have had nothing but problems. I've even received 2 new boards and the problem continues.
I have two HYP4850U100-H inverters in parallel with three 10kwh lfp batteries also in parallel. The inverters both have 120v in to an electric panel to give me 240v.
When I plug my EV charger in, which is set to run at 30amps only, about 70% of the time I get error code 08 or 15 on inverter #2. I have to reboot everything and start over.
What also confuses me is when it works, inverter #2 drops to 84v while inverter #1 always stays at 120v. Why is it dropping to 84v?
When is works, it stays on. When it fails, it does so when the inverter drops to 92v, just before it gets to the "acceptable" 84v. I've attached an image of the screen when it's holding.
SRNE says my settings are correct but they won't give me an answer as to why it's happening. They love to blame when things don't work. Maybe this inverter can't handle 30amps.
 

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Did you verify the 84V with a meter?
What else is running when you're charging ~7.2KW?
Same issues if you reduce charging current?
Could you share a photo of your wiring / diagram?
Is wiring equal length and you've triple checked all connections?
Neutral ground bond?

What are settings 31 and 38?

They should easily handle that power.

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the HYPs I went with ASPs and they'd been great.
 
Did you verify the 84V with a meter?
What else is running when you're charging ~7.2KW?
Same issues if you reduce charging current?
Could you share a photo of your wiring / diagram?
Is wiring equal length and you've triple checked all connections?
Neutral ground bond?

What are settings 31 and 38?

They should easily handle that power.

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the HYPs I went with ASPs and they'd been great.
Thanks for the response. I have checked with a meter AND I have an automatic transfer switch that reads it as well.

Nothing else is running besides the automatic transfer switch. This system was designed only for charging my truck.

If I use a 20 amp 120v circuit I never have this problem, it's only when I run 240v.
Yes it's all grounded.

Settings 31 on inverter #1 it's 2P0
On inverter #2 its 2P2.

38 is set to 120V as it's the only option and confirmed to be correct by the manufacturer.

All wires meet or exceed the manufacturer specs. All battery cable lengths are the same. I've attached an image showing my battery layout. Not included is the wiring to the sub panel so I'll explain because a picture would be hard to decipher. I've also attached an image from when I changed the main board for the second time. You can see the AC out wire going to the left.

To the left of inverter #2 is a sub panel. 6/2 wire runs from each inverter to the sub panel giving the sub panel 240V.
The Sub panel then has a 50amp breaker that connects to the automatic transfer switch.
My EV charger is wired to the transfer switch. And Grid power is also fed to the transfer switch.

SRNE has sent me two new motherboards. Nothing seems to work. The EV charger is not a hard start.

Here is a YouTube link that shows what happens when the inverter trips. You'll notice the inverter on the right stays at 120v. Inverter #2 drops.
The loud click you hear after it trips is the transfer switch flipping back to grid power.


Lastly, here two image of the inverter when it's working and doesn't trip, it sits at 84V. The MOES transfer switch shows 196V and 31.9 amps.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Thanks for the response. I have checked with a meter AND I have an automatic transfer switch that reads it as well.

Nothing else is running besides the automatic transfer switch. This system was designed only for charging my truck.

If I use a 20 amp 120v circuit I never have this problem, it's only when I run 240v.
Yes it's all grounded.

Settings 31 on inverter #1 it's 2P0
On inverter #2 its 2P2.

38 is set to 120V as it's the only option and confirmed to be correct by the manufacturer.

All wires meet or exceed the manufacturer specs. All battery cable lengths are the same. I've attached an image showing my battery layout. Not included is the wiring to the sub panel so I'll explain because a picture would be hard to decipher. I've also attached an image from when I changed the main board for the second time. You can see the AC out wire going to the left.

To the left of inverter #2 is a sub panel. 6/2 wire runs from each inverter to the sub panel giving the sub panel 240V.
The Sub panel then has a 50amp breaker that connects to the automatic transfer switch.
My EV charger is wired to the transfer switch. And Grid power is also fed to the transfer switch.

SRNE has sent me two new motherboards. Nothing seems to work. The EV charger is not a hard start.

Here is a YouTube link that shows what happens when the inverter trips. You'll notice the inverter on the right stays at 120v. Inverter #2 drops.
The loud click you hear after it trips is the transfer switch flipping back to grid power.


Lastly, here two image of the inverter when it's working and doesn't trip, it sits at 84V. The MOES transfer switch shows 196V and 31.9 amps.

Thanks for the help.
Looks like all the settings are correct.
Have you tried swapping the master and slave to see if the issue follows the inverter?

Is your only neutral ground bond in your main panel?
 
My truck has 131kwh of battery. My solar only has 30kwh. I use the MOES as a way to to switch over to the grid to continue charging my truck when my 30kwh batteries are depleted. Do you have another/better way that is automatic?

You wave ac input/output on my Inverter or MOES? Is MOES terrible? I'm at work, I can do videos later. but the picture above shows the AC output being wired. I'm not using AC input at all. Thanks
 
Moe's is dangerous junk.
The first thing I would do is get it out of my system.
It very well could be what is causing the problems.
It's not a real transfer switch. It has no mechanical interlock and can connect to both inputs at the same time.
 
I studied your first post more and the description.

First problem with the MOES was when used as a transfer switch between grid power and inverter power was there wasn't a delay in switching long enough to prevent cross phasing. Many inverters were blown up this way. Remember this as this may be why you are seeing the problem occur.

Do you have grid input wired into the HYP inverters? This is a hybrid inverter designed to sync with the grid. If you don't have grid input, then you may have a case of the MOES switching and causing cross phasing. If instead there is grid input to the inverters, then you might have the phases wired incorrectly to the MOES.

Is there a reason for grid and the inverters wired to the MOES? The HYP is hybrid and will allow for grid blending if desired or even just grid pass thru.
 
My truck has 131kwh of battery. My solar only has 30kwh. I use the MOES as a way to to switch over to the grid to continue charging my truck when my 30kwh batteries are depleted. Do you have another/better way that is automatic?

You wave ac input/output on my Inverter or MOES? Is MOES terrible? I'm at work, I can do videos later. but the picture above shows the AC output being wired. I'm not using AC input at all. Thanks
I think the problem is with the MOES creating cross phasing.

Is this guerilla solar or a permitted install with interconnection agreement? If a non permitted install then you should maybe use a different ATS that will not allow cross phasing to occur.
 
I think the problem is with the MOES creating cross phasing.

Is this guerilla solar or a permitted install with interconnection agreement? If a non permitted install then you should maybe use a different ATS that will not allow cross phasing to occur.
I'll remove the MOES and test again. Guerilla solar, lol, never heard that term. It's not permitted as it's off-grid only, and well, the county can shove it with permits for that. They got enough off me from my on grid system. Do you know of another ATS? I never had much trouble l luck trying to find one
 
I'll remove the MOES and test again. Guerilla solar, lol, never heard that term. It's not permitted as it's off-grid only, and well, the county can shove it with permits for that.

Guerilla Solar: no permits
They got enough off me from my on grid system.
Wait, you already have a grid tie system that was installed with permits and interconnection agreement? If so, then just AC couple the HYP's.

Do you know of another ATS? I never had much trouble l luck trying to find one
No need for one if you can AC couple the HYP's.
 
Guerilla Solar: no permits

Wait, you already have a grid tie system that was installed with permits and interconnection agreement? If so, then just AC couple the HYP's.


No need for one if you can AC couple the HYP's.
I'll have to read up on that, I've never heard of this. But yet I have a system installed by a local contractor with Solar Edge inverters. The inverters are on the other side of my property. I have electrical running from the main house electrical panel to a sub panel in my garage to power the garage. That is where these inverters sit.
Just so we're clear, I live in CA where we now have NEM 3.0. I am locked in to NEM 2.0 on my permitted on grid solar.
If I connect this off grid system/batteries to the on grid system, does this change my NEM status. I know the electric company said I can only add 10% (which is only 1.8kw) to my existing setup, anything more would change me to NEM 3.0. But I can add all the batteries I want.
 
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The system that you have is an hybrid inverter all in one " no need for transfer switch "with grid input auto grid charging option and grid transfer. Moe transfer switch monitoring low dc voltage cut up at you desire then you are now creating unnecessary redundancy already installed from you inverter
 
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The system that you have is an hybrid inverter all in one " no need for transfer switch "with grid input auto grid charging option and grid transfer. Moe transfer switch monitoring low dc voltage cut up at you desire then you are now creating unnecessary redundancy already installed from you inverter
Even better! I told the seller what I plan to do I wish you had told me that, ultimately my fault for not diving deeper into the manual for that.

I guess my concern was always if I did AC input that I was somehow tying it to the grid and I wanted to avoid that for permitting reasons and potential safety issues for a lineman. Thanks for the info
 
I'll have to read up on that, I've never heard of this. But yet I have a system installed by a local contractor with Solar Edge inverters. The inverters are on the other side of my property. I have electrical running from the main house electrical panel to a sub panel in my garage to power the garage. That is where these inverters sit.
Just so we're clear, I live in CA where we now have NEM 3.0. I am locked in to NEM 2.0 on my permitted on grid solar.
If I connect this off grid system/batteries to the on grid system, does this change my NEM status. I know the electric company said I can only add 10% (which is only 1.8kw) to my existing setup, anything more would change me to NEM 3.0. But I can add all the batteries I want.
As long as you limit your grid export, I don't see how this would be a problem. As far as the utility would know, you are self consuming if they note the additional panels and the export remains the same. As you are using this solely for charging the EV truck, it will not be a problem.

AC coupling would make things quite easy for you to implement. Use the battery power until depleted and the inverter will switch to "grid" power which actually is power from either the grid tie setup or power from your NEM bank. You have the advantage of the grid tie so any backfeed would not be noticed when a large load shuts off. You are in the perfect scenario for AC coupling.

For guerilla solar without permits and without an interconnection agreement, AC coupling won't work as a large load suddenly shutting off with full battery charge will force power to the grid. Thus the reason for not utilizing AC coupling in an off grid system without permits and IC agreement.

This is a good thing for you as you can add batteries if desired to increase your storage to charge the EV. Perfect scenario. No transfer switch needed.
 
So I have removed the MOES ATF. That alone didn't fix my problem of inverter #2 dropping voltage to 85 volts and tripping an error. It's responding just as it did on the ATF.

I haven't had time to wire in AC input, but I don't understand how that will stop the 08 error.

So currently I have my inverters wired in to a sub panel. Off that sub panel is a 50 amp breaker that my Ford EV charger is wired to. Nothing else is connected to this load.
 
So I have removed the MOES ATF. That alone didn't fix my problem of inverter #2 dropping voltage to 85 volts and tripping an error. It's responding just as it did on the ATF.

I haven't had time to wire in AC input, but I don't understand how that will stop the 08 error.

So currently I have my inverters wired in to a sub panel. Off that sub panel is a 50 amp breaker that my Ford EV charger is wired to. Nothing else is connected to this load.
It is possible the inverter is damaged due to the MOES.

As for the HYP, each one only puts out 120V and not 240V?
 
It is possible the inverter is damaged due to the MOES.

As for the HYP, each one only puts out 120V and not 240V?
This is the second inverter, I guess it's possible the MOES damaged 2, but unlikely in my opinion.
Yes each one puts our 120V. But they run in parallel. Each Output is connected to a sub panel for 240V. Then A breaker for power to my EV charger.
I'm going to change the breaker later today since I have a new one and see if it's causing the voltage drop.
 
If the inverter is showing the low voltage output on its screen, it's less likely the breaker is the reason for this.
Did you try the suggestion of 42OhmsPA to swap the Master and Slave? If the voltage problem follows that swap, the problem is probably in the software as opposed to hardware.
 
If the inverter is showing the low voltage output on its screen, it's less likely the breaker is the reason for this.
Did you try the suggestion of 42OhmsPA to swap the Master and Slave? If the voltage problem follows that swap, the problem is probably in the software as opposed to hardware.
I haven't tried changing the master and slave yet because I have to make a new communication cable and other things that would take a little bit more time, I'm very limited on my time during the week!
But I did do something that was very basic. there have been times where I can't get my large charger to work so I'll plug in 120 volt charger. I've always noticed that charger works off of the first inverter which never has a problem. that first inverter feeds the top leg in the subpanel. So just now I decided to switch the 15amp breaker to the bottom leg of the subpanel, So it would run off of the second inverter which feeds that bottom leg. I hope that makes sense 🙄.

My voltage dropped from 120 down to 115. I have a weird suspicion there's something wrong with the wire coming into the sub panel, either it's not tied down right or there is a problem with the subpanel. Thoughts?
 
I haven't tried changing the master and slave yet because I have to make a new communication cable and other things that would take a little bit more time,

Running battery communication?

I'm very limited on my time during the week!
But I did do something that was very basic. there have been times where I can't get my large charger to work so I'll plug in 120 volt charger. I've always noticed that charger works off of the first inverter which never has a problem. that first inverter feeds the top leg in the subpanel. So just now I decided to switch the 15amp breaker to the bottom leg of the subpanel, So it would run off of the second inverter which feeds that bottom leg. I hope that makes sense 🙄.

My voltage dropped from 120 down to 115. I have a weird suspicion there's something wrong with the wire coming into the sub panel, either it's not tied down right or there is a problem with the subpanel. Thoughts?
Possible, most likely a connection issue.

As these are 120V inverters in 240V split phase, the current sharing cable is not to be used, only the DB15 parallel cable. We have seen members with other inverters hook up the current sharing cable.
 
Possible, most likely a connection issue.

As these are 120V inverters in 240V split phase, the current sharing cable is not to be used, only the DB15 parallel cable. We have seen members with other inverters hook up the current sharing cable.
Yea the manual is confusing on that but the diagram does not show it connected.
1000011393.jpg

You shouldn't have to extend any cables to swap master and slave, just a change of settings.
 
These units ( eco-worthy, Powmr, sungold , SRNE and much more ) are the same the exact copy of each other, Rebranded ! I wonder who's the original? I have personally teared down Powmr and eco_worthy all the same .I am not sure if those advertising Split phase and parallel claims are correct yet more than misleading. I had the 5000w split phase up to six parallel Powmr I returned the Powmr, now I have same for eco-worthy yet experiencing the same issue although I kept the eco-worthy and uses as single units because I didn't want to dealt with the disassemble and repacking again but I get a discount from the vendor . These instruction means nothing .......has anyone using any these 5000W 48v split phase and parallel functionally able to get these working as advertised?
1725040564172.png
 

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I change the breaker. that didn't do anything. I then swapped the screw terminals block from one inverter to the other. that didn't change any results. I just made a cable that's longer for my communication for my batteries. later on I will change the inverters to make the bad one as the #1 inverter.

Lener, so you've never got 240 to work? sometimes it takes up to 13 reboots for me to get it to finally hold. but it's never worked regularly
 

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