Stop flickering lights when using taiwan based.. All in one inverters ??

epochtime

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Jun 15, 2022
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I only have two taiwan type inverters; Mpp-lv5048 and Eco-Worthy 3500 watt. Both are three-in-one types. Disconnecting AC utility input eliminates all flicker. Amazing!
I mean what the hell ! Monitoring the inverter sine wave output on my oscillascope NOW looks great. One of my most flickering led lamps (from the 99 cent store) has no flicker at all NOW.
There seems to be a design flaw (taiwan 3in one systems ?) with the AC Powered 48 volt DC chargers. My mpp-lv5048 in the night time hours after i've switched to utility priority AC output And charger priority source switches to utility-charging. My mpp-lv5048 is pulling and additional load of 250 to 350 watts (battery fullly charged) When in should be pulling an additional 50 watts (battery full charged). Watchpower monitor pc program shows apparent and real power output from both L1 and L2 branches. With the AC charging enabled. The additional 250-350 watts loss is showing up in the real and apparent output readings. L1 and L2 output differences can be seen. And there is a difference of about 250-350watts. With the 48volt charger disabled (AC input breaker switched off or disabled via softwewe settings (charger out priorty = "solar only" )) . Power apparent and real power L1 and L2 readings are nearly equal .

The Eco-Worthy 3500watt (looks exactly like RENOLGY 3500 Watt except it is yellow) is a new one I bought on ebay and just fired up earlier this week some of my findings my be a little premature. The inverter in night time mode AC 48 volt DC charger running batteries fully charged is pulling an additional 100 to 200 watts when it should be pulling only 50 watts (battery fully charged). When 48 volt charger is on there is massive flicker on all house lighting. Sign wave output very bad. Sign wave output with 48 volt charger disabled = sign wave is excellant (none better).
 

newbostonconst

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Sep 24, 2019
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Is this in a house or van? I would start with checking over the connections. Have you ever done voltage drop type checks between like the neutral and ground? Check that the connection to the ground rod is good.
 

epochtime

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Jun 15, 2022
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Is this in a house or van? I would start with checking over the connections. Have you ever done voltage drop type checks between like the neutral and ground? Check that the connection to the ground rod is good.
It's a house. Ground is good. No voltage drops. The lv5048 in wired for single phase 120 volt in and 120 volt out (parallel L1 & L2 in's and outs).
The Eco-worthy is my backup inverter and is strictly 120 volt in and out. My 48 volt battery is tied to both inverters with isolation 48v positive disconnect switch to eco-worthy. lv5048 has been on line over two years. I've been testing eco-worthy for about a week isolated and nonisolated modes.
 
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schmism

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When in should be pulling an additional 50 watts (battery full charged).
You used this statement twice. As if there is some carved in stone universal law that your referencing to make such a statement (as if it is fact)

I know of no such universal law that suggest your statment is in fact true. Said another way, why do you think the 250-350w is incorrect and your 50w number IS correct?
 

epochtime

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Jun 15, 2022
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You used this statement twice. As if there is some carved in stone universal law that your referencing to make such a statement (as if it is fact)

I know of no such universal law that suggest your statment is in fact true. Said another way, why do you think the 250-350w is incorrect and your 50w number IS correct?
I've seen many post's of excess load (unexplained) in this 250 watt range from people using taiwan 3in1 inverters. Said people questioning where/why is this loss/load happening. Why are my lights flickering etc. It maybe that a 48 volt charger capable of 100 amp output with noload may pull 2 or 3 amps input (idle current) at 120 volts. An indication of crap 48 volt charger design. Will we ever see a schematic print of these inverters to see whats going on. I thing these inverters are great otherwise. Now this issue could possibly be a software problem if said 48 volt charger is of pwm design. Simply using wrong duty cycle lookup under low or noload conditions (fact).

" Said another way, why do you think the 250-350w is incorrect and your 50w number IS correct?" Your last question.

I see 1 amp current at 56 volts going to battery IxE = 56 watts (full charge) this 56 watts is also powering two bms's.. I see 200+ watts charger input to get only 56 watts out. Setting charger out priority (inverter settings) to Solar Only turns off 48 volt charger AC input drops by 200 watts (lights stop flickering).

If anybody has flickering lights simply change solar output setting (temporely) to Solar Only to see if its the source of the flickering.
 
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Zwy

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Jan 3, 2021
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Is there a 3 pole neutral switching transfer switch in the system?

I could see where the charger might cause a flicker under light load. However, many set the float voltage more than 0.5V below bulk and thus the charger might not charging.
 
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