Suggestions for additional portable panels?

[davidy]

I have a van with a 330 watt panel on the roof. (62.6"X41.5") At first, I was thinking of buying another panel of the same size (Panasonic SC330) but no one will sell just one. Now I'm thinking of buying two 180-200 watt panels, since I'm likely to deploy them on the ground, anyway. Individually lighter, and easier to move but I could still store them on the roof when traveling. (I have an extra charge controller and 30 feet of wiring ready to go.) Any feedback or suggestions? Thank you!

 

[MisterSandals]

Any feedback or suggestions?

I helped a friend create pigtails to the battery that were accessible in a utility compartment. We originally used MC4 connectors but that got old after just one use and we switched to MC3 connectors (Anderson, SAE, anything but MC4 is sufficient).

We recently moved the dedicated remote SCC into the utility compartment to keep it out of the weather/dust and to make it harder to steal. Its also a little easier moving panels without worrying about an SCC on a short leash. It was all small panels (low amps) so easily handled with standard 10AWG but if your panel wires are 25' or longer, the necessary wire requirements can become an issue. SCC closer to battery almost always better.

 

[Substrate]

Be very wary of "SAE" automotive type slip together connectors in your build. Small rant follows ....

Not only are they typically high-resistance and poor conducting - oxidizing over time too, but are frequently wired in seemingly random polarities.

Case in point - many newcomers to solar using those cheap Harbor-Freight panels would extend their cabling with another manufacturers "SAE" cable, which was wired in a different polarity - and ZARP !

Worst case is the voltage drop seen at the battery terminals due to this, where if a user is say using a low CV with LifePo4 like 14.0v setting in their controller, is actually never reaching beyond 13.6v at the terminals, and never charging properly as they intended.

Even some well-designed AC chargers for batteries are defeated by the manufacturer's use of total junk for connectors. They just don't get it. Makes the company engineers cry.

 

[davidy]

Thank you. I really appreciate the information. I don't pretend to know about this stuff and therefore had it designed and installed by an electrician I trust and who has been building solar for quite a while. The extra line from the van has MC4 connectors. I trust this site... I've been following Will for years. I've read his book and others but I'm always happy to learn more... hopefully at no one's expense. Thanks again!

 

[davidy]

I helped a friend create pigtails to the battery that were accessible in a utility compartment. We originally used MC4 connectors but that got old after just one use and we switched to MC3 connectors (Anderson, SAE, anything but MC4 is sufficient).

We recently moved the dedicated remote SCC into the utility compartment to keep it out of the weather/dust and to make it harder to steal. Its also a little easier moving panels without worrying about an SCC on a short leash. It was all small panels (low amps) so easily handled with standard 10AWG but if your panel wires are 25' or longer, the necessary wire requirements can become an issue. SCC closer to battery almost always better.

Thank you! I will check out the MC3 connectors. I appreciate how much you contribute to this site, and listen to what you have to say.

 

[HRTKD]

I have two 320 watt ground deployed panels that I use with my RV trailer. There are two of the same panels on the roof of the trailer. I use separate solar charge controllers for each set of panels.

1. Smaller panels are a lot easier to deploy. One of these days I'm either going to get a (second) hernia or one of those panels is going to get caught by the wind and end up in the next state.
2. At the time, an SAE connector on the side of the trailer was the easiest way to go. It's within the amperage rating of what my panels are putting out. I get good voltage/amperage through the connection. A feature (bug?) of the SAE connector is that it doesn't "lock". The cord can come out of the connection. If someone trips over the cord, it's going to come out rather than rip the connectors apart.
3. You need some way to secure the panels from wind.
4. A method to tilt the panels is also handy.

 

[davidy]

I have two 320 watt ground deployed panels that I use with my RV trailer. There are two of the same panels on the roof of the trailer. I use separate solar charge controllers for each set of panels.

1. Smaller panels are a lot easier to deploy. One of these days I'm either going to get a (second) hernia or one of those panels is going to get caught by the wind and end up in the next state.
2. At the time, an SAE connector on the side of the trailer was the easiest way to go. It's within the amperage rating of what my panels are putting out. I get good voltage/amperage through the connection. A feature (bug?) of the SAE connector is that it doesn't "lock". The cord can come out of the connection. If someone trips over the cord, it's going to come out rather than rip the connectors apart.
3. You need some way to secure the panels from wind.
4. A method to tilt the panels is also handy.

Thank you. I am looking into a simple rack system, but I don't have a lot of room, so I'm hoping to figure a compact design.

 

[HRTKD]

For the first ground frame that I made I used 1"x2"x1/8" aluminum square tube. Just a little overkill there.

It's heavy and adds to the bulk of the panel.

The second frame was made out of 1"x1"x1/8" aluminum square tube. Lighter and not as bulky. I think I could get by with a thinner wall.

Neither of the frames are going anywhere once I secure them to the ground with 10" lag screws through the frame. I use a bungy cord to hold the panel down to the frame when it's tilted up. So far, no issues in the wind.

I have a toy hauler trailer that has room for these panels. A regular travel trailer wouldn't have room. I store the panels/frames against the wall where the couch and dinette fold up to the wall. That secures the panels and protects them too.

 

[davidy]

Jim,
Thank you for your input. I like the idea of securing the ground frame with 10" lag screws. That definitely sounds secure! So, you use bungees to hold the panels against the frame rather than bolting them? That's an idea I had not considered but sounds easier if it's secure enough.
David

 

[HRTKD]

This thread will explain the frame I made. The bungy cord in the picture was just for testing. The production cord is 1" wide and is adjustable to work with whatever tilt I need.

My DIY Portable Panel Tilt Frame

I looked around for a suitable manual tilt mechanism for a portable solar panel and didn't find anything suitable. Most of what I found was too small for my full size panels which weigh 44 lbs each, with dimensions of 66" L x 39" W x 1.5" D (1676mm x 1008mm x 40mm). Yes, these panels are far...

diysolarforum.com

 

[davidy]

This thread will explain the frame I made. The bungy cord in the picture was just for testing. The production cord is 1" wide and is adjustable to work with whatever tilt I need.

My DIY Portable Panel Tilt Frame

I looked around for a suitable manual tilt mechanism for a portable solar panel and didn't find anything suitable. Most of what I found was too small for my full size panels which weigh 44 lbs each, with dimensions of 66" L x 39" W x 1.5" D (1676mm x 1008mm x 40mm). Yes, these panels are far...

diysolarforum.com

This looks good! You really thought about this. Thanks!