Sumry 4000W Hybrid Inverter 24V HGX-4KW-120V

[DC_Ripple]

Warning: Wall of text. Tried to answer as many questions that I myself would probably ask.

I put this in AIO, but could have easily been Offgrid. Moderators feel free.

Shiny Blackface [see attached pic]
$265.68 AliExpress, shipped from Georgia USA

This unit has no control for Grid Tie

Hybrid in that it can charge with AC & PV

There seem to be several flavors of this unit with the same Model Number.
Some have only 1 GND connection on the AC Output side.
I have seen others with a GND on both Input & Output sides.

Manual does not give specs for MPPT input, I estimate 15 - 20 amps
No PV at this moment, but will ramp voltage with a few amps to see when Inverter starts

User Manual is common for SUMRY 3.0KW / 4.0KW
Version number on back cover: 614-02403-00


Planned use:
Hand Truck Build
Limited output: ~3000W
Double pole DC Input Breaker with External Pre-Charge Circuit
Four 12V 100ah LiFePO4 batteries. 2S2P 24V 200ah (with Balancer)

Battery Type Setting: USER, open loop
[I will provide all settings at a later time, if requested]


MUCH TESTING BELOW, may be boring or a chance to learn. YMMV

Measure:
UNPOWERED

Capacitance of DC Input 2200 uf x 8 Electrolytic Caps, 35V = 17,600 uF (Estimated)

Input
L - N Hi Z [Open, for you non Impedance guys/gals]
L - G Hi Z
N - G Hi Z

Output
L - N Hi Z
L - G Hi Z
N - G Hi Z

Input to Output
L - L Hi Z
N - N Short [Common Neutral]
Gnd to Chassis Short

Inside wiring on Terminal block is 10 AWG, with GND 12 AWG


Measure:
POWERED

Power up with 28.5V supply @ 3 amps to change settings.
AC Output 119.9VAC (no load)


When powered Check Output AC with Receptacle tester

Without Input AC Connected: Outlet Tester Shows "Open Ground"
Measured 120VAC from L to N
Measured 43.5VAC L to G
Measured 91.5VAC N to G
No N-G bond on AC Output - NO Utility Input connected.

Removed 28.5V Supply

Connect AC Input cord, wired Ground to G on AC Output connection

With Input AC Connected: Outlet Tester Shows "Correct"
Measured 120VAC from L to N
Measured 120VAC L to G
Measured <1VAC N to G
When AC Input applied, N-G Bond passes to the Output.
Common Neutral, Common Grounds.


Added Space Heater on Medium setting as a LOAD.
715 Watt [Killawatt] / Input & Output Voltage = 115VAC
No battery connected, so AC Pass through.
I was using a crappy long extension cord, probably 16AWG.
Still need to verify Voltage Regulation at higher power. [To Do List]

EDIT: load tested to around ~3KW, with 10AWG wire to AC Output.
Measured voltage was 120.4VAC with a fluke meter at the Output Panel.
Very happy the regulation loaded is spot on.


Supply PV voltage (@ 3 amps) to check Inverter Startup on PV alone.
Expected: 55V
Actual: 56V (drawing 0.250 amps)


All of the above benchtop testing with the following test equipment:

30V, 10A Switching Power Supply
0 - 60V Variable 5A Switching Power Supply
Southwire 120V Outlet Tester
Fluke 177 TrueRMS Multimeter
Killawatt P3


Been a fun morning, more parts arrive tomorrow for Pre-Charge toys

 

[Mattb4]

Quite a bit different looking than my Sumry 3.6kW 24 model. Mine worked great with the exception of a always on fan.

 

[DC_Ripple]

I read your write up several times!

I honestly didn't pay attention to the fans as the Space Heater blower was on.

The 3.6KW has Grid Tie function.
37 - GRID-tie operation Off grid / Hybrid
38 - GRID-tie current 10A / 2A increment
These settings are removed from the 4KW unit.

I am happy that the Neutrals are connected.

 

[Kpc5172]

I read your write up several times!

I honestly didn't pay attention to the fans as the Space Heater blower was on.

The 3.6KW has Grid Tie function.
37 - GRID-tie operation Off grid / Hybrid
38 - GRID-tie current 10A / 2A increment
These settings are removed from the 4KW unit.

I am happy that the Neutrals are connected.

For the grid-tie setup, I connect my 110V AC line from the panel to the AC in. I see the main out, but if you want grid tie, where do you hook that up to? The manual outlines the primary output for appliances. I want to connect a solar panel and a battery to send power to my house, just like a grid-tied inverter.

 

[Mattb4]

Grid export would be handled by the AC in. Using your Sumry strictly for grid tie is an unusual arrangement so it is doubtful there is many folks with experience doing so. AC out from the Sumry would be for loads not connected to the grid.

I have no idea if hybrid mode in the settings under grid-tie operation and USB would accomplish your goal.

 

[DC_Ripple]

The 3.6KW has Grid Tie function.
37 - GRID-tie operation Off grid / Hybrid
38 - GRID-tie current 10A / 2A increment
These settings are removed from the 4KW unit.

 

[vulture]

Hi @DC_Ripple - could you provide your USER battery settings for your Lifepo4 batteries? I am running this inverter with two eco-worthy 12v 100ah batteries in series and wondered if the default lithium battery settings are appropriate. Thx

 

[DC_Ripple]

Menu Name Setting Option Description
00 Exit ESC Exit setting menu
01 Output Source Priority SBU
02 Maximum Charging Current (combined) 40A 9.6A if all Utility
03 AC Input Voltage UPS Default
04 Power Saving Mode SdS
05 Battery Type USE User Defined. Set 26, 27 & 29
06 Auto Restart when Overload Ltd disabled
07 Auto Restart when Over Temperature ttE enabled
08 Output Voltage 120V
09 Output Freqency 60Hz
11 Maximum Utility Charging Current 40A 40A [28.2v x 40a = 1128W]
12 Setting Voltage point back to Utilty (SBU) 24.5V to Utility when battery this V
13 Setting Voltage point back to Battery (SBU) 27.0v to Battery when at this V
16 Charger Source Priority CSO PV 1ST, Utility when no PV
17 For Factory Use Only
18 Alarm Control bON ON
19 Auto Return to Default Screen ESP To Default Screen
20 Backlight Control lON ON
22 Beep while primary control is interrupted AOF OFF
25 Record Fault Code FEN Fault Record Enabled
26 Bulk charging voltage (C.V Voltage) 28.2V Bulk (absorption) Voltage
27 Floating Charging Voltage 27.2V Float Voltage, N/A if 05 set to Lib
29 Low DC cutoff voltage 24.0V Inverter Cut-Off Voltage
30 Restore Default Settings OFF IF SELECTED ALL SETTINGS TO DEFAULT
33 Battery Equalization OFF Not Used
34 Battery Equalization Voltage 28.6V Not Used
35 Battery Equalization Time 60 Not Used
36 Battery Equalization timeout 120 Not Used
37 Equalization Interval 30d Not Used
39 Equalization Activated Immediately OFF Not Used

 

[DC_Ripple]

If you wanted to squeeze every electron out of the battery, you can comfortably make these changes:

26 Bulk charging voltage (C.V Voltage) 28.4V
27 Floating Charging Voltage 27.4 V
29 Low DC cutoff voltage 22.0V

 

[vulture]

If you wanted to squeeze every electron out of the battery, you can comfortably make these changes:

26 Bulk charging voltage (C.V Voltage) 28.4V
27 Floating Charging Voltage 27.4 V
29 Low DC cutoff voltage 22.0V

Thanks! I will start off with the lower values and see over time. This is mostly to function as a UPS for a server rack and home audio equipment with some occasional prolonged grid outages. No PV input just yet.

 

[vulture]

I have it configured and running - with the battery fully charged (shows 0A going to the battery), it's idling at 40W per the power monitor reading without any load connected to it. I assume grid bypass is engaged (shows "bypass" on the screen). Wish it was lower For comparison double conversion UPS units from Liebert idle at 25-30W on bypass.

 

[DC_Ripple]

For comparison, my Eco Worthy 5000W Hybrid Inverter runs about 60 - 65 Watts idle.
With the ECO mode is ENABLED, when the load is less than 50 Watts, the inverter will stop the Output after 5 minutes.

It then drops to around 15 watts.

But you have to switch the Inverter OFF, then ON (using the toggle switch) before the Inverter will come to life again.

I use it when the batteries are low and not enough sunshine for a day or 2. It keeps the idle current low enough not to eat the batteries completely.
I could just turn it off as well.

 

[FS_3]

Any Idea on actual manufacturer?

 

[DC_Ripple]

I think it actually may be Sumry:

https://www.sumryenergy.com/

Y&H looks like a clone:

Y&H 4000W 12V Solar Hybrid Inverter Pure Sine Wave Built MPPT 140A Solar Charger AC120V with 6.25 inch LCD Screen and Touch Buttons

This is A Multi-function Inverter/charger, Combining Functions Of Inverter, 150A Mppt Solar Charger And Battery Charger To Offer Uninterruptible Power Support With Portable Size. New toughened glass screen design, more user-friendly touch buttons. According to previous sales experience, inverter...

www.yonghuisolar.com

POWERLAND looks like a clone as well:

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[FS_3]

Ripple- have you load tested it yet? several reviews on Amazon said they didn't get above 3000 W before it started faulting. I'm wondering if they had enough battery.

 

[DC_Ripple]

In my write-up I loaded it just above 700 watts, but that was on AC Input. No battery connected.
That worked fine. No alarms or warnings.

Honestly have not connected the batteries yet.
It was for a hand truck build, but I got sidetracked replacing my panels in the yard. Still not finished.

I can try and give it a go this weekend.
Everything is in the basement, so really just need to wire the batteries in and fire it up.

I have a couple of 1500 Watt Space Heaters, that should be a good load test.

I have heard that is starts to wimp out above 3500 watts. But that is just "hearsay", no one told me directly.

My intention is to run it less than 3000W, so not a deal breaker for me.


If someone says they can't get 300W without errors, something is clearly wrong.

24V x 100Ah = 2400Whs. I would think even with one 24V 100ah battery (or two 12V 100ah in series) would let you get within spiting distance of 2000W

I'll follow up before the weekend is over.

 

[vulture]

I ran mine on 1600W (hairdryer) + 640W dehumidifier off two 12v 100AH eco-worthy batteries until it shut off at 22v (no grid input). It was all as expected. The dehumidifier has been a problematic load for double conversion based UPSs I have been in the last two weeks but the Sumry held up just fine. Again, I did not get anywhere close to the rated 4k capacity but that is not I am aiming to use it for.

 

[DC_Ripple]

I hooked everything up tonight.
realized my batteries were pretty low, around 25.3V [Four 12V, 2S2P]

Two 1500 watt space heaters.
The heaters take a couple minutes to reach max power then settle a bit lower.
got close to 3KW then tripped on Error [04] low battery voltage.
Put them on a charger for a while.

Reviewed my settings and realized I had:
12 - set to 24.7v
29 - set to 24v.

With battery voltage at around 27V. I tried again with the following Changes:
12 - set to 23.0v [Default]
29 - set to 23v. [Default is 21v, but that seems too low to be comfortable]

Started again, both heaters on full.
Touched just over 3.1KW
Settled at ~2.85KW after a few minutes.
Output voltage measured at distribution box was 120.4VAC, measured with a Fluke multimeter.
Clamp-on ammeter reading just shy of 119 amps on the Positive battery cable.

No errors. Let it run for around 10 minutes before shutting it off.

I put the batteries on the charger again overnight at low amps to balance/top off.

If I get time tomorrow or Sunday I will try to add a bit more load.
The AC Out is wired with 10AWG wire, so I am limited to ~ 3600 Watts.

Personally, 3K is what I was looking for and think this will be OK for my needs.

EDIT: I had no PV or AC Input connected. All tests were battery ONLY.

 

[monkeyz47]

I've been using my Sumry 4000w on a dolly build for the last 5 months (and it's been outside that entire time - I use a smoker/grill cover to protect it from the elements and critters). It runs my camper A/C and appliances fine. I also use it around the property to run my 3-gallon air compressor, angle grinders, saws, and even my welder (small old Lincoln weld pak 100). The welder overloaded the inverter a couple times when it surged a little on the high-power setting.