Sungoldpower TP6048 - WiFi & Idle Power Issues

[Over9000]

I got that from your first post. That's why I asked if you fully charged the 12V before putting them in series.

Not really, see above charts and graphs.

Everything was fully charged though before connecting it.

If something is out of balance now (after all of them were for sure at 100% before being connected), what can I do to balance them or prevent them from coming out of balance?

does my lack of a dedicated BMS have to do with anything?

 

[Crowz]

Here is an example of my setup right now :



Notice soc is 67%.
Volts at 54.0V right now.
It has 3hrs and 29 min to go charging at 36.4 amps.
So 54v = 67% and even with 36.4 amps aka 1964 watts going into the battery it still needs another 3 hrs and 39 min to get to full.
It has to stay at full for an hour or more to do any decent balancing of the cells in the batteries. Well at least 54.something and higher.

This is also a problem with trying to use only voltage as a "full" indicator. Its 54v but that is 54v because its being charged at 36.4 amps.

If I disconnected the battery bank they wouldn't actually be at 54v it would be 52.6 or so since its only 67% charged.

 

[Over9000]

Here is an example of my setup right now :

View attachment 259386

Notice soc is 67%.
Volts at 54.0V right now.
It has 3hrs and 29 min to go charging at 36.4 amps.
So 54v = 67% and even with 36.4 amps aka 1964 watts going into the battery it still needs another 3 hrs and 39 min to get to full.
It has to stay at full for an hour or more to do any decent balancing of the cells in the batteries. Well at least 54.something and higher.

I see this but how does it correlate to my questions above?

 

[42OhmsPA]

Everything was fully charged though before connecting it.

To what voltage?

If something is out of balance now (after all of them were for sure at 100% before being connected), what can I do to balance them or prevent them from coming out of balance?

What voltage do you consider 100%?

Do the 12V batteries have bluetooth BMS's ?

They sell 48V balancers for 12V packs in series, I don't remember what they are called; even using one you'll still have issues with the 12V packs cells losing balance if you don't regularly charge to at least 3.45V / cell.

does my lack of a dedicated BMS have to do with anything?

It shouldn't but having 12V packs in series doesn't help.

I think the majority of your issues are from not getting the batteries fully charged and not having an accurate way to measure SOC.

 

[Crowz]

I see this but how does it correlate to my questions above?

The point of that screenshot of my system is to show that without a shunt you don't really know what the actual charge level of your batteries are right now just going by voltage during the day. If it has no load and is showing 49.something volts you do know its about DEAD though

 

[seneysolar]

Everything was fully charged though before connecting it.

If something is out of balance now (after all of them were for sure at 100% before being connected), what can I do to balance them or prevent them from coming out of balance?

does my lack of a dedicated BMS have to do with anything?

At 54v they weren't being charged to full. Several cycles like this gets them out of balance.

The 12v batteries in series need their own balancer. The 48v batteries would benefit from a balancer as well, but not necessarily required. Then, even with balancers youll need to reach 56V+ for some time to achieve full charge.

 

[Over9000]

The point of that screenshot of my system is to show that without a shunt you don't really know what the actual charge level of your batteries are right now just going by voltage during the day. If it has no load and is showing 49.something volts you do know its about DEAD though

Ironically I've never seen it higher than 54.0V per the Sungoldpower app, big I get that it's not accurate compared to a shunt.

Each 12V was charged to 13.60~13.68V before connecting them in series and yielding ~54.4V. Measured on a Fluke multimeter.

The 12V batteries do not have Bluetooth BMS.

 

[seneysolar]

Ironically I've never seen it higher than 54.0V per the Sungoldpower app, big I get that it's not accurate compared to a shunt.

Each 12V was charged to 13.60~13.68V before connecting them in series and yielding ~54.4V. Measured on a Fluke multimeter.

The 12V batteries do not have Bluetooth BMS.

Eco worthy wants 14.2-14.4 absorbtion voltage, so thats 56.8v min target to reach.

 

[Over9000]

Eco worthy wants 14.2-14.4 absorbtion voltage, so thats 56.8v min target to reach.
View attachment 259389

Yeah, I don't recall eclipsing 14V but my charger should do it no problem. See my chargers below

 

[Over9000]

The point of that screenshot of my system is to show that without a shunt you don't really know what the actual charge level of your batteries are right now just going by voltage during the day. If it has no load and is showing 49.something volts you do know its about DEAD though

@Crowz - Does it make a difference if my inverter's battery setting is AGM? Setting #14 => Default ? Or should I change it to 14 LIC (3rd party Lithium Battery)?

What firmware versions should I be running?

So here's what I need to do then:
1. Purchase Victron Shunt (link)
2. Purchase the SolarAssistant (link) with 9-60V DC Power Supply and the Voltronic RS232 USB cable (link)
3. Sell the Renogy Shunt & Renogy Core One?
4. Hook up both the Voltronic cables and Shunt to the Battery Input on the TP6048 (that's going to be a messy stack up)?
5. Would I still need a battery balancer with this setup?

 

[Crowz]

@Crowz - Does it make a difference if my inverter's battery setting is AGM? Setting #14 => Default ? Or should I change it to 14 LIC (3rd party Lithium Battery)?

What firmware versions should I be running?

So here's what I need to do then:
1. Purchase Victron Shunt (link)
2. Purchase the SolarAssistant (link) with 9-60V DC Power Supply and the Voltronic RS232 USB cable (link)
3. Sell the Renogy Shunt & Renogy Core One?
4. Hook up both the Voltronic cables and Shunt to the Battery Input on the TP6048 (that's going to be a messy stack up)?
5. Would I still need a battery balancer with this setup?

That would do it.

Set it to User and then the parameters manually.

Also yes that's the correct equipment.

I went with this one :

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-SmartShunt-Battery-Bluetooth/dp/B0856PHNLX

For expansion room but the other will work.

Also I did this for the PI :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TQZH4GJ $60

The bought a dc power supply. $15

The solar assistant software via download and put on an sd card long enough to copy to the internal drive on the pi I listed. $$55.83

So you save a little that way.

But if the price is ok just go with one you linked.

Main thing the battery HAS to be set to user mode and then set the charge parameters manually.


As for inverter firmware I never updated it. Isn't a big deal on these inverters that I'm aware of.

 

[Over9000]

That would do it.

Set it to User and then the parameters manually.

Also yes that's the correct equipment.

I went with this one :

https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-SmartShunt-Battery-Bluetooth/dp/B0856PHNLX

For expansion room but the other will work.

Also I did this for the PI :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TQZH4GJ $60

The bought a dc power supply. $15

The solar assistant software via download and put on an sd card long enough to copy to the internal drive on the pi I listed. $$55.83

So you save a little that way.

But if the price is ok just go with one you linked.

Main thing the battery HAS to be set to user mode and then set the charge parameters manually.

When you say that would do it, what is the "it" you're referring to?

How do you set the Battery to User Mode (not sure what that means)? And what parameters should I change?

Also, is it really necessary for me to change my setup with this Victron Shunt + this other Solar Assistant, or should I give it a go with the Renogy equipment since it's already in hand?

 

[Crowz]

When you say that would do it, what is the "it" you're referring to?

How do you set the Battery to User Mode (not sure what that means)? And what parameters should I change?

Also, is it really necessary for me to change my setup with this Victron Shunt + this other Solar Assistant, or should I give it a go with the Renogy equipment since it's already in hand?

With or without ANYTHING listed you MUST change the battery parameter to lithium or user defined. I used the user defined setting. Then I set the parameters for all of the charge functions based off the recommend info from the battery manufacturer.

This is the most important part of the puzzle as to why its not charging correctly. AGM and LIFEPO4 are completely different charging wise.

Why did you spend so much for those battery chargers you listed earlier? Because you needed them to work with the lifepo4 batteries. What you set the battery as in the inverter settings controls how it charges the batteries. As of right now if you have it set to AGM it would be like putting a $40 battery charger on there in place of those expensive ones you bought.

 

[Over9000]

With or without ANYTHING listed you MUST change the battery parameter to lithium or user defined. I used the user defined setting. Then I set the parameters for all of the charge functions based off the recommend info from the battery manufacturer.

This is the most important part of the puzzle as to why its not charging correctly. AGM and LIFEPO4 are completely different charging wise.

Why did you spend so much for those battery chargers you listed earlier? Because you needed them to work with the lifepo4 batteries. What you set the battery as in the inverter settings controls how it charges the batteries. As of right now if you have it set to AGM it would be like putting a $40 battery charger on there in place of those expensive ones you bought.

What battery parameters would I use if half the setup is Renogy and the other half Ecoworthy???

 

[Crowz]

I didn't see the model # for the renogy batteries your using. I would probably set it for one of those.

 

[Over9000]

I didn't see the model # for the renogy batteries your using. I would probably set it for one of those.

1. Renogy Battery (link) - I have (6) of these in parallel

• Voltage Range = 42-55.5V
• Charge Cut-off Voltage = 54V
• Max Continuous Charge Current = 50A

2. Ecoworthy Battery (link) - I have (4) of these in series

• Absorption Voltage = 14.2-14.4V
• Charging Cut-off Voltage = 14.6V
• Max Charging Current = 160A (140A Recommended)

I'm not sure what exactly to enter, but I changed it to user and have the following settings:

• Battery Cut-off Voltage = 42V
• Battery Bulk Voltage = 56.4V (not sure where this came from)
• Battery Float Voltage = 54V
• Max Charging Current = 50A
• I believe the rest of the settings are irrelevant since I'm off-grid.

 

[Crowz]

I have bulk at 56v on mine.

 

[Over9000]

I have bulk at 56v on mine.

Given the info above for both sets of batteries, how would you configure it?

 

[Crowz]

The way you set it looks fine except I use 56v for bulk.

 

[Over9000]

I adjusted it to 56V. Regarding the equipment, is it really necessary for me to change my setup with this Victron Shunt + this other Solar Assistant, or should I give it a go with the Renogy equipment since it's already in hand?

 

[DIYrich]

Ok to try and wire in the Renogy shunt, and see if it is accurate enough for your needs.

set the max charging current to 100a. On a good day, your inverter can send 75a to the battery with no loads.

When was the last time the batteries were charged to full (at least 53.5v after charging)? If it has been more than a few weeks, that could be the reason your SOC is way off.

 

[Over9000]

Ok to try and wire in the Renogy shunt, and see if it is accurate enough for your needs.

set the max charging current to 100a. On a good day, your inverter can send 75a to the battery with no loads.

When was the last time the batteries were charged to full (at least 53.5v after charging)? If it has been more than a few weeks, that could be the reason your SOC is way off.

Wouldn't 100A or even 75A be dangerous if my Renogy batteries have a maximum charge current rating of 50A ?

 

[Crowz]

Wouldn't 100A or even 75A be dangerous if my Renogy batteries have a maximum charge current rating of 50A ?

Divide the charging current setting by the number of 48v batteries being charged.

If its (4 echo's making one) and 6 ren's then its 7 batteries.

So 100A / 7 = 14.28amps per battery.

100A's isn't enough to be honest

 

[Over9000]

Divide the charging current setting by the number of 48v batteries being charged.

If its (4 echo's making one) and 6 ren's then its 7 batteries.

So 100A / 7 = 14.28amps per battery.

100A's isn't enough to be honest

The TP6048 can be set to 120A. I'd just need to see an ass ton of power in order for it to get that high. Should I set it there?

 

[Crowz]

As long as all of the batteries are connected you can.

You wouldn't want it that high without at least 3 batteries connected