Super new guy, how’s this look?

[littleharbor2]

Being able to tilt your panels up and away from the units will help but the lowest output panel in the string will dictate the overall current from that string. The most important thing being any shade is bad, especially when you are configuring your array into series strings.

As far as trying to parallel wire some panels I think that would create a wiring nightmare unless you want to run a bunch of charge controllers. Don't mix voltages into any MPPT input.

 

[MisterSandals]

As far as trying to parallel wire some panels I think that would create a wiring nightmare unless you want to run a bunch of charge controllers. Don't mix voltages into any MPPT input.

His "A" array looks pretty straightforward as a 3S3P configuration. Not sure what the nightmare is or why you think he is mixing voltages.

 

[littleharbor2]

His "A" array looks pretty straightforward as a 3S3P configuration. Not sure what the nightmare is or why you think he is mixing voltages.

Your comment only mentions 3p. Sounded like you're recommending paralleling individual panels. My apologies for my misunderstanding.

 

[Browneye]

Some thoughts as this thread/project develops...

Good to see you've pared down some extraneous power consumption projections - will be much easier to accommodate your actual requirements.

My panels are mounted about an inch and a half off the roof top. During winter sun the roof vent covers project shade up to about 8 inches to the side - I just mounted my panels so they wouldn't shade. It's a non-issue any other time of year. I don't have any adjacent to the roof top air unit.

I don't know about you, but climbing up on the roof to fiddle with tilting panels was a non-starter me. Just something to consider...or...more power to you.

Your photos appear to indicate you have a rubber roof - so PV frame mounting will need to be thru-bolted or at least into structural members. Some kind of racking system will be necessary.

Mounting panels a foot above the roof was also a non-starter for me. Just....no.

As I mentioned early on, the two 215W panels recharge my battery, and I have a pair of 80W portables that can be deployed in direct sun around the campsite for an extra 8-10A of charging.

Later in the morning shading is off the panel(s). This is before 10am on a mid-winter day:

 

[Bobert]

Mounting panels a foot above the roof was also a non-starter for me. Just....no.

That was my thought initially as well but the advantages and availability of materials changed my mind.

 

[Browneye]

Another option for additional PV coverage may be to mount hinged panels to the side of the unit that can be tilted up to deploy. Potentially even a window-covering type of affair that becomes an awning when deployed.

Another option I saw round the interwebs was a sliding tray type setup, one panel under another, that can slide out to deploy, slide back in underneath for travel.

 

[Browneye]

Like this...

Or this...

Here's another forum thread on setting up this type of system:

300watt Sliding Solar Install Space Saver - Sportsmobile Forum

Been working on the solar setup for the EB van. With not much prime real estate on the roof of the CCV top (AC and Fantastic Fan) It had me thinking of ways I could mount my already purchased Kyocera

www.sportsmobileforum.com

 

[BDubya907]

Alright, Im back!! Made it home from Wichita, and brought (8) EVE LF280Ks with me (and Covid...)

I've been scratching my head quite a bit about how I wanted to layout panels on the roof, because I've got a lot of obstacles. Found a post in a Facebook group with an incredible (I think?) layout that elevates the panels above all the obstacles, similar to what others had suggested here, and I really like it. Santan Solar has got some 370W panels that look like they may be a good option for me, and will allow me to mount 8 of them, for just shy of 3kw. I think I'd like to go this route. Will use aluminum unistrut to elevate everything just above my AC units. The front panel will be at an angle in transit, with a tilting mount to allow it to sit flat with the rest of them while we're camping. No shade issues (other than trees I guess) and with the aluminum unistrut, I'm figuring total weight on the roof to be right at 500lbs. Spread out over the entire roof, I don't see that being a problem. So, it looks like I've got two options:
1: 4 Separate arrays of 2S, with (4) 100/50 Charge controllers. I like this option the best, partly because the cost of the charge controllers, even with 4 of them, is less than the alternative, and their size is considerably smaller, so they'll be easier to install where I want to install them.

2: 2 Separate arrays of 4S, with (2) 250/85 Charge controllers. The positive to this is less "things" to fail, and less wiring.

Looks like each option will give me about 130A of charging, obviously best case scenario. I've got a 6 night camping trip coming up, both with full hookups, so I'll be able to keep a log of what we use and for how long, so hopefully I can dial in my power audit, at least on the big AC loads that matter. Now I just need Victron to release the 24V MPII!!! Well, I guess I could get away with 12V. The MPPT 100/50 will handle 700W of panels at 12V, and I'd be at 740 max-ish, so the SCC would just limit the input. At 12V with the MPii I'd have max charging of 120A, which I think I could get fairly close to pretty regularly in Alaska during the summer.

Any thoughts??

 

[Zil]

It is all in reference to how much power we need in our RV. Every ones needs are different. I need my microwave. I need my coffee pot. I need my water pump. I need my refrigerator. I need my fans. So i built my van with enough battery to power this at 12 volts. Considering I have limited roof top area, the amount of solar recharge also limited my choices of powered items. I do use much more power in a grid tied S&B.
Mr littleegg2, Does your post#20 have something to offer?