Brucey
Velcro Man
Blue Seas is also quality no worries there.
System Design for EVE304Ah 2P4S
- Thread starter TheAutomotiveEngineer
- Start date
TheAutomotiveEngineer
New Member
Yes, blue seas is what I meant
TheAutomotiveEngineer
New Member
Regarding the battery casing, I'm planning to create an enclosure using 15mm POM and a plexiglass cover, covering both top and front. Not closing off the sides seems to be fine, I will probably route the cables using some 3D printed parts which will cover the poles as well. The box includes all cells including the REC BMS, pre-charger as well as the shunt and the connector. Am I forgetting anything? Based on the positioning of the box I might still flip left to right as this seems to make more sense based on where the system is installed with respect to the multiplus and the rest of the electrical system. In that case I can make two holes on the left side of the box where my + and - come out.
S Davis
Solar Addict
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2021
- Messages
- 1,031
I would add a class t fuse.
Brucey
Velcro Man
A redundant protection system is always handy.
Frank Blue
New Member
Hi, I have a question barely IT.
I noticed you are from DE, in EU is not very usual to see such big battery in a "small" van.
I am genuinely curious because I have an hymer mh 7m with 100Ah,200Wp.
We (2) just made the whole eu from sicily to north cape in 4 months and found at 4% battery once, never hooked to 220V. I am fullgas and was planning to move something to electrical with bigger battery and fv. This is why I am curious, I was thinking a single 280Ah was way enough. Is your choice for redundance, are you cooking or heating via electrical?
btw..I would never do like in the picture, I'd like to have 2 separate 4s pack in a way you can cut one out with just 1 single nut reachable from outsite without dismounting the assembly. I would problably have common - and 2 + coming out of the assembly, wired as 2 4s pack inside.
I noticed you are from DE, in EU is not very usual to see such big battery in a "small" van.
I am genuinely curious because I have an hymer mh 7m with 100Ah,200Wp.
We (2) just made the whole eu from sicily to north cape in 4 months and found at 4% battery once, never hooked to 220V. I am fullgas and was planning to move something to electrical with bigger battery and fv. This is why I am curious, I was thinking a single 280Ah was way enough. Is your choice for redundance, are you cooking or heating via electrical?
btw..I would never do like in the picture, I'd like to have 2 separate 4s pack in a way you can cut one out with just 1 single nut reachable from outsite without dismounting the assembly. I would problably have common - and 2 + coming out of the assembly, wired as 2 4s pack inside.
TheAutomotiveEngineer
New Member
Hi Frank, yes we live in Germany. We do everything electric except for heating (diesel). The battery setup is specified like this on purpose to have a bit of redundancy and buffer.
The same question came up of course regarding on how to configure the batteries, based on this forum and my background I’m comfortable laying out in 2p4s.
Frank Blue
New Member
I am so afraid of cooking dependence with sun.
The reason is that in northern EU we had up to 2 weeks of continous zero solar available, 1 week is a normal thing. (there are places in norway where it rains 300 days a year but also in ireland gb denmark and northern continental EU I encountered zero solar for several days). We lived out of the alternator for weeks.. (1 hour drive a day for our 50Ah needs), not enough to cook..and even a battery bigger than yours would not be enough. I see overlander cook with induction but they have alternators way bigger, I don't feel safe to live months depending on sun to cook but this depends on me living months on the van in places where sun is not always shining..in Italy its way different for example.
I agree with 2p4s, I just advice to have the possibility to disconnect one of the 4s without having to dismount the assemplby..if 1 cell fail you just cut away half the batt, with your wiring you lost the entire battery until you dismount and change the wiring. I hope I explained better myself
The reason is that in northern EU we had up to 2 weeks of continous zero solar available, 1 week is a normal thing. (there are places in norway where it rains 300 days a year but also in ireland gb denmark and northern continental EU I encountered zero solar for several days). We lived out of the alternator for weeks.. (1 hour drive a day for our 50Ah needs), not enough to cook..and even a battery bigger than yours would not be enough. I see overlander cook with induction but they have alternators way bigger, I don't feel safe to live months depending on sun to cook but this depends on me living months on the van in places where sun is not always shining..in Italy its way different for example.
I agree with 2p4s, I just advice to have the possibility to disconnect one of the 4s without having to dismount the assemplby..if 1 cell fail you just cut away half the batt, with your wiring you lost the entire battery until you dismount and change the wiring. I hope I explained better myself
S Davis
Solar Addict
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2021
- Messages
- 1,031
I wanted some redundancy on my system, I went with two 280ah 4s batteries in my truck. Make sure you secure the cells real well, at about 12lbs each they have a lot of mass and a pot hole at speed can make them move independently causing bad connections, heat, fire. I would definitely not use solid buss bars. I mounted on 1” vibration dampers for added protection.
TheAutomotiveEngineer
New Member
Than
Thanks for the idea, the case will be bolted directly through the floor. In the casing I will mill some small pockets for the cells to snug fit in them. Together with the clamping, this should minimise the movement. I wasn’t planning to add dampers and will use the vehicles suspension instead.
TheAutomotiveEngineer
New Member
Just to show some progress. Finishing off the design and details of the case construction took some time, also I had some other topics to work on in the mean time. At the moment the casing is structurally finished and the cells are in place. Here are a few pictures of the milling and cutting process, as well as figuring out the best layout for the BMS and finally how it is all coming together with all the cells in place. I'm now working on the figuring the best way to put in the cables and how to attach them to the copper bars I have, it takes some time but it seems at least to be structurally sound.
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