Pretty cool. I never did the math on 12 (6 pos, 6 neg) 12 AWG wire runs instead of 6 (3 pos, 3 neg) 10 AWG runs (using branch connectors at the array). If I am doing the math correctly there is less voltage drop with the 12 runs and the net cost is the same (12 AWG looks to be half the cost of 10 AWG). More wire pulls but it keeps it really simple with the Solark.
System Layout Questions Sol Ark 15k and EG4 Batteries
- Thread starter rkwolfe
- Start date
6
629658
Guest
Try these each switch will do 2 MPPTs so I used 2 switches. Makes the connection between the solar wiring and the #8-10 back to the inverter plus gives you disconnect at the array. Perfect solution.
IMO SI32-PEL64R-4 True DC Solar Isolator
IMO SI32-PEL64R-4 Multi String True DC Solar Isolator Enclosed Switch, IP66
www.solar-electric.com
MaikaiLifeDIY
Solar Enthusiast
I like these, for my needs I think 3 of them is perfect so I can disconnect each mppt separately for testing, inverter replacement etc.Try these each switch will do 2 MPPTs so I used 2 switches. Makes the connection between the solar wiring and the #8-10 back to the inverter plus gives you disconnect at the array. Perfect solution.
IMO SI32-PEL64R-4 True DC Solar Isolator
IMO SI32-PEL64R-4 Multi String True DC Solar Isolator Enclosed Switch, IP66
6
629658
Guest
I believe they sell 4 pole ones. I used two 8 pole ones. They are about $70 each. They actually sell a 12 pole which would be perfect for 3 MPPTs but it’s really pricy. You can see if you look close I mounted one on each side of a water tight box. Also a great idea I picked up from Gain Solar is to mount a 1 1/2” weather head on top of the box to bring my PV wire in. A great cheap idea that works perfectly.
Attachments
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
I like the idea of being able to isolate each solar panel string but I would use MCB's so that you have a switch and protection built into each string.
I wouldn't bother with a final combiner because surely that's what the solark is actually doing.
I wouldn't bother with a final combiner because surely that's what the solark is actually doing.
That set up with the weather head looks perfect. Exactly what I need with 3 of the 4 pole models. I am still thinking of going with 12 runs of 10 or 12 AWG (pos and neg from 6 strings of panels). Ideally I think I would rather go with 6 runs of 8 AWG (branch connecting the six strings of panels down to 3 total pos/neg runs) but the Sol Ark states either 10 AWG or 12 AWG for the MPPT wire connections. That box would also give me room to add surge protection later if I ever figure that part out.
6
629658
Guest
I replaced three #4 with six #8 and a ground. My array is 350 feet from my inverter. Worked great with lower loss and greater load capacity than the three #4.
MaikaiLifeDIY
Solar Enthusiast
Do you have any pictures of your suggestion?
Do you have a part number for the 8 pole model? I can't seem to locate.
Quattrohead
Solar Wizard
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
I'd use (did use) non-polarized iso breakers:
Can't f..k it up by wiring it backwards. Helps to keep things neater sometimes to swap things around. YMMV
vnr111
New Member
Hello! I lm looking at a very similar setup as yours for my Solark 15K and six Trophy 300Ah batteries. I really appreciate all the insight youve provided on your setup with this configuration.
I am curious why you are using a Victron busbar rather than just putting two Trophy batteries in parallel and wiring that to each of the terminals on the Solark (for four batteries total)?
Also, do you know if your setup would be possible if your batteries were in a different room - I'm debating about putting these massive batteries in my garage which would be about 60 feet away from my Inverter/Panel.
Thanks in advance.
MaikaiLifeDIY
Solar Enthusiast
I know it's not my system you are asking about, but I also have that Victron bus bar, it's quite possibly one of the best little secrets to using prebuilt hardware to give your system easy expansion and high-quality components.
Victron Lynx gives you multiple ports and is rated for 1000 amps allowing you to expand your system using the bus bar as your hub for multiple batteries or arrays of batteries. In addition, since the Victron system is modular you can connect up other components of the Victron system such as additional Lynx and or shunt to provide additional expansion and monitoring.
Check out this video that shows you how to convert a Lynx into a high-quality fused bus bar.
As long as your cable is sized correctly for the distance you can put the batteries in a different room than your inverter. However, considering you're using some big batteries with a large amount of amperage, you'll want to have large 4/0 wires in my opinion, especially fi the distance is 60 feet away.
This is the cable I use for all my battery wiring, nothing smaller and I have my batteries about 15 feet from the Victron Lynx, which is about 3 feet from the inverter.
Spartan Power 100% Pure Copper Bulk Welding Cable
Spartan Power welding cable is sold in bulk quantities, is 100% pure copper and feature an ultra-flexible EPDM jacket. Expect the best, get the best.
spartanpower.com
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
If you are thinking about putting your batteries 60 feet from your inverters, I think you should re-think what you are doing. Some biblical thing about mountains and Mohamed comes to mind. 240V/50A is #6 for 60 feet Or you can run 4/0 for 60 feet for your 250A of 50V. You can run as small as 3/4 conduit for the #6 I'd probably run #4 in 1 inch. Or whatever for a pair of 4/0. I'm not sure I'd want to pull 4/0 60 feet unless it was an absolutely straight line run. If you decide to pair up the inverters, everything doubles. Likely you are going to run two or three independently fused 4/0's, or you need to get MCM1000 or something, or you could just run THHN 2AWG for 240v to a 100A sub panel. The cost of the cable alone is going to kill you, and the loss for 50V at the current loads we are talking are going to be annoying. Your inverter(s) should be as close as possible to your batteries.
I agree. I keep what uses power as close as possible to the batteries. Cable cost alone gets ridiculous FAST otherwise.
ksmithaz1
Solar / EV Junkie
Oh I dunno, I just looked, Nassau just dropped the price of 1000 MCM to a mere $3400 for a 100ft spool (From $6K). You'd only need 120ft for a 60 ft run, maybe a little over $4000 if you size it perfectly. Bus connectors are going to be fun.
Actually I've been noticing the cost of copper cable has been gradually dropping. I got 250ft of 12/2 at HD the other day for well under $150. It was up closer to $300 not so long ago.
Everything I end up needing these days is around $300 it seems cable wise.
Generator cable 50 foot kit $300
AC wire for my last aio install $300
Had to have two runs of 150 feet of 10awg cable a little over $300
Its still down from not long ago like you said but it still bites the wallet every time I turn around.
