diy solar

diy solar

Terminal Fuse on Lishen M6 studs

My friend, that is just silly.

I think those fuse blocks suck for one. But it's better than no fuse.

If you did want to fix the problem you can use a spacer in the hole that is too big. The spacer would have the OD of the hole that is to big and the ID of the hole you want.

Something like this would work but you have to cut off a piece the right length. https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_spacers_Nylon_black_6mm.aspx
 
My friend, that is just silly.

I think those fuse blocks suck for one. But it's better than no fuse.

If you did want to fix the problem you can use a spacer in the hole that is too big. The spacer would have the OD of the hole that is to big and the ID of the hole you want.

Something like this would work but you have to cut off a piece the right length. https://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_spacers_Nylon_black_6mm.aspx
What's your experience with these terminal fuses been, why do they suck?
 
What's your experience with these terminal fuses been, why do they suck?
They are ugly and they stick out in the way. There is more contact area exposed on the big thing sticking out in the way.
It causes leverage and pulls too hard on the screw.
MRBF fuses aren't good enough for LFP.

But it's much better than nothing.
 
They are ugly and they stick out in the way. There is more contact area exposed on the big thing sticking out in the way.
It causes leverage and pulls too hard on the screw.
MRBF fuses aren't good enough for LFP.

But it's much better than nothing.

Sticking out is not an issue in my situation as they will be in a case with a cover with no risk of coming into contact with a dropped tool or anything like that.

When you say "MRBF fuses aren't good enough for LFP." Is there some technical issue with them you're refering too? The alternative in my situation would be to run a Cable outside the case to a T Class fuse block, which would have unfused wiring outside the batter box.
 
Are you fusing the whole pack? Or is this a fuse on each cell?
 
Sticking out is not an issue in my situation as they will be in a case with a cover with no risk of coming into contact with a dropped tool or anything like that.

When you say "MRBF fuses aren't good enough for LFP." Is there some technical issue with them you're refering too? The alternative in my situation would be to run a Cable outside the case to a T Class fuse block, which would have unfused wiring outside the batter box.
MRBF fuses and the corresponding terminal blocks are pretty neat imho.
Their interrupt capacity may not be enough for a battery made from the big blue cells though.
Nice find on the fitting reducer I've bookmarked it.
 
Personally, I would NEVER put fuse on the Battery Cell Terminal. Run a Cable or Solid Copper Bar like Ampster did in photo above to a proper Terminal. a 5/16 Lug on one of the cable with a 3/8 Lug for the terminal.

Most common ones used by folks are here:
Painless Performance Remote Battery Terminal Kits 40106.jpg

sum-csumg1431_xl.jpg
 
If anyone is really interested in what the NEC code says, I have attached the "new" article for the 2017 NEC Code regarding ESS.

Bottom line is an Overcurrent Protective device ( aka fuse or Circuit Breaker ) should be as close as is reasonable to the system component being protected. Fuses at the Battery end of an ESS , if sized correctly, will protect the "downstream" wiring in the case of a fault, short, etc. in that section of the system as the LFP battery is capable of supplying very large currents which could overload the wiring.. Typically, the OCPD is located within 1.5m (5 ft) of the ESS . See section 706.21(f).

I'm with ArthurEld on the use of MBRF fuses and would suggest a T type fuse or similar located external with a short ( and heavy gauge ) wire from the Fuse Holder/Block to the Battery Terminal. But It's just my opinion which, if you ask my wife, is pretty much worthless most of the time.


credit to All Star Training for the PDF (available on the Internet)
 

Attachments

  • 2017-NEC-Code-Ch-7-Article-706-.pdf
    136.8 KB · Views: 7
I'm considering using a Terminal Cube Fuse on my Lishen Cells wich have 6mm threads however the the Terminal Fuse Block has a 10mm hole and it seems unwise to have so much wiggle room.

I'm considering using a M10 to M6 reducer adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/Fitting-Reducer-Metric-M10X1-5-Adapter/dp/B07FLQPNFG#customerReviews

Has anyone done anything similar, how did you solve this issue?
I am using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001FXL4Q0?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
to attach my Orion to my vans battery, with that said I am a BlueSea fan boy... love their dc panels... just so expensive
 
I am using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001FXL4Q0?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image
to attach my Orion to my vans battery, with that said I am a BlueSea fan boy... love their dc panels... just so expensive

I also like Blue Sea and used them extensively in my AC Panel upgrades, I've used their DC stuff as well but, like you, wish they were a bit less costly. IMHO, The AMG fuses work as well as the T type in mobile applications.

The M6 studs are quit small for the larger cells and given the trouble folks have has with stripped terminals, I'd suggest to limit the "torque", maintenance, etc. done on the terminal itself and "remote" the fuse.
 
Back
Top