diy solar

diy solar

The "Meg" Build

Just ordered my 2nd LV6548. Im gonna run them separately per Ian's suggestion, with no communication between them, and each half of my 50a breaker panel will be fed by each inverter, which also allows me to still charge from a 120v generator.
 
Just ordered my 2nd LV6548. Im gonna run them separately per Ian's suggestion, with no communication between them, and each half of my 50a breaker panel will be fed by each inverter, which also allows me to still charge from a 120v generator.
So no comms? Not sure if I like that Idea.
 
are
Just ordered my 2nd LV6548. Im gonna run them separately per Ian's suggestion, with no communication between them, and each half of my 50a breaker panel will be fed by each inverter, which also allows me to still charge from a 120v generator.
one battery bank?
did you get your other working?
 
The only thing they are sharing is a battery bank, and a common neutral/ground and he assured me it will cause no problems.

Worst case ill run them in split phase, then whenever I need to charger with a 120v generator I will shut 1 down and reprogram the 2nd for single phase in/out.
 
The only thing they are sharing is a battery bank, and a common neutral/ground and he assured me it will cause no problems.

Worst case ill run them in split phase, then whenever I need to charger with a 120v generator I will shut 1 down and reprogram the 2nd for single phase in/out.
Is it possible to keep them in single phase but in parallel? The manual seems to show up to six in parallel, all sharing the same 120 single phase (pages 46-48), but it does not show the gen connection.
 
Is it possible to keep them in single phase but in parallel? The manual seems to show up to six in parallel, all sharing the same 120 single phase (pages 46-48), but it does not show the gen connection.
From the manual, the Generator connects to the same 120v ac input. I dont think the units would know if its grid or generator. The generator better be able to handle the load though, cause six of these in parallel can pull 39KW.
 
Now that I will be having 240v capabilities with these 2x LV6458s, I can't get my mind off a 3 zone mini split system with Ceiling Cassettes like @cinergi. I won't be able to do anything until I have problems with 1 or more of the units that I have right now though.

I do see LG units with 9k, 12k and 15k ceiling cassettes with the ODU for about $4500... how would I determine BTU sizing though? Right now its got 3x 15k btu units, but I doubt they actually work that well. Im curious if a 9k or 12k BTU ceiling cassette is equivalent to a 15k RV AC?
 
Now that I will be having 240v capabilities with these 2x LV6458s, I can't get my mind off a 3 zone mini split system with Ceiling Cassettes like @cinergi. I won't be able to do anything until I have problems with 1 or more of the units that I have right now though.

I do see LG units with 9k, 12k and 15k ceiling cassettes with the ODU for about $4500... how would I determine BTU sizing though? Right now its got 3x 15k btu units, but I doubt they actually work that well. Im curious if a 9k or 12k BTU ceiling cassette is equivalent to a 15k RV AC?
btu = btu... so 12k forsure... you don't get more cooling out of high efficiency just less watts per btu
 
btu = btu... so 12k forsure... you don't get more cooling out of high efficiency just less watts per btu
If thats the case, wouldn't it need 3x 15k?

I'm just curious because we all know the RV inefficiencies aren't just in the compressor type etc, but also the terrible blower fan system and the extremely turbulent and leak prone ducting.

I'd hate to put 3x ductless 15k BTU units and it be short cycling all day.

I just checked Cinergis thread again, looks like he has 2x 9k BTU units, but he's a little shorter than mine. I think the 9k bedroom, 12k garage, and 15k living room is perfect. Especially since it does get routinely about 115* where I live. We just had a week of 106-108*... ugh.
 
Last edited:
If thats the case, wouldn't it need 3x 15k?

I'm just curious because we all know the RV inefficiencies aren't just in the compressor type etc, but also the terrible blower fan system and the extremely turbulent and leak prone ducting.

I'd hate to put 3x ductless 15k BTU units and it be short cycling all day.

I just checked Cinergis thread again, looks like he has 2x 9k BTU units, but he's a little shorter than mine. I think the 9k bedroom, 12k garage, and 15k living room is perfect. Especially since it does get routinely about 115* where I live. We just had a week of 106-108*... ugh.

Oi, with those temperatures yes you'll need BTU with these relatively-poorly insultated RVs. The mini splits don't cycle on and off if they don't need to. ... it tries to run at a minimum state (e.g. mine tends to sit at 300-500 watts at 85F and no sun). I'm struggling at 90F in the sun with two 9's ... I'm definitely going to 11 in the LR and that should hold me to maybe 100F. The 9k in the BR keeps it nice and cold.
 
Oi, with those temperatures yes you'll need BTU with these relatively-poorly insultated RVs. The mini splits don't cycle on and off if they don't need to. ... it tries to run at a minimum state (e.g. mine tends to sit at 300-500 watts at 85F and no sun). I'm struggling at 90F in the sun with two 9's ... I'm definitely going to 11 in the LR and that should hold me to maybe 100F. The 9k in the BR keeps it nice and cold.
Very nice to hear. I wonder then if I can save some money and get 2x 9k for the bedroom and garage and a 12k for the living room? Thats still quite a bit of BTUs...
 
If thats the case, wouldn't it need 3x 15k?

I'm just curious because we all know the RV inefficiencies aren't just in the compressor type etc, but also the terrible blower fan system and the extremely turbulent and leak prone ducting.

I'd hate to put 3x ductless 15k BTU units and it be short cycling all day.

I just checked Cinergis thread again, looks like he has 2x 9k BTU units, but he's a little shorter than mine. I think the 9k bedroom, 12k garage, and 15k living room is perfect. Especially since it does get routinely about 115* where I live. We just had a week of 106-108*... ugh.
it will not short cycle because mini splits ramp up and down....
also would you run the cold air into to same ductwork in the ceiling? lots of heat gained there. I assume with the cassette then you won't be and downsizing would work..

the RV inefficiencies... that does not mean less BTU per say it means more energy wasted
 
it will not short cycle because mini splits ramp up and down....
also would you run the cold air into to same ductwork in the ceiling? lots of heat gained there. I assume with the cassette then you won't be and downsizing would work..

the RV inefficiencies... that does not mean less BTU per say it means more energy wasted
I would rather not use the old ducting. Even though this means my bathroom will not get direct AC, its not a deal breaker by any means.

I was thinking the same. Yes the AC is making 15k BTUs. But by the time it gets to me, sitting on the couch, its lost most of its energy and is only actually 10k BTU, or whatever it comes out to.

Now I just gotta talk to an AC guy about some install work, ill also make a shroud down the center of the trailer to cover the 3 cassettes as they stick out of the roof. This will also make more space for more solar panels ?
 
You want the highest SEER rating you can find, at least over 21. Some systems are now >22 but not sure if they make a roof cassette version. Why? This is what will dictate BTU per watt which is what matters most.

You could also consider wall mount in a couple locations if it makes sense - they are typically more efficient due to cooling coil size and blower layout.

Read this some good info.

 
You want the highest SEER rating you can find, at least over 21. Some systems are now >22 but not sure if they make a roof cassette version. Why? This is what will dictate BTU per watt which is what matters most.

You could also consider wall mount in a couple locations if it makes sense - they are typically more efficient due to cooling coil size and blower layout.

Read this some good info.

The ones I've seen are around 21-22 SEER. Anybody know what an average RV AC is? Im guessing in the low double digits?

I could only do 1 wall mount in the kitchen over the fridge, and above the slide, but not sure how I would run the lines to it.

If I got really creative I could get one in the garage too, but again, idk how to get the lines to it. Ill have to talk to my AC guy.

The main bedroom upfront definitely could not do a wall mount, there just isn't any wall space.
 
The ones I've seen are around 21-22 SEER. Anybody know what an average RV AC is? Im guessing in the low double digits?

I could only do 1 wall mount in the kitchen over the fridge, and above the slide, but not sure how I would run the lines to it.

If I got really creative I could get one in the garage too, but again, idk how to get the lines to it. Ill have to talk to my AC guy.

The main bedroom upfront definitely could not do a wall mount, there just isn't any wall space.

How about the concealed duct systems? Might work as well for a location or two as can hide it in the basement and vent it in under a bed or something?

The issue with the RV units is they are not held to any efficiency standards so typically not rated/specified. Even Dometic which is a Swedish brand do not seem to give this info.
 
the current ac I bet 8 SEER ....

I wanted to replace the heater with a duct type.. but I would start the ducts themselves needs to be insulated
 
Good news. I was able to disconnect the all power (Grid, PV and battery) and i turned them back on one at a time. First PV only, and it worked great. I even ran 2 ACs on solar power alone! It has enough surge to simultaneously run 1 AC, while it starts another one! Incredible!

Then I flipped on The grid ac input, and all is still well. Im guessing it's something wrong with the battery side.

A side note, I can't connect to the BMS in my battery, I hope that's not my problem... but im going to pull the lid off the battery and check it out
did you ever get this fixed?
 
Back
Top