This could be interesting

gnubie

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Yet the aus government knocked back The 4th telco merge because they didn’t trust that Huawei equipment was ‘in Australia’s best interests’ due to perceived backdoors built into the code allowing remote exploits. Everything comes with a price tag, sometimes cheap is not what it seems.
Strangely no real proof of those backdoors was ever forthcoming. :) That's not to say Hauwei doesn't produce horrifically bad firmware at certain product levels. It does. 3rd party audits have found mind bogglingly bad things such as multiple different versions of flawed libraries being used, within a single product.

At the sort of level I was talking about in my last post, China isn't cheap anyway. It's a myth that China is cheap. It's cheap if you want cheap crap. If you want something done properly in China, it can be a bit cheaper than the more familiar Euro/USA etc names, but not a whole lot.
 

upnorthandpersonal

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PS: All the fusing, breakers, wiring, housing, connectors, adapters, and unforeseen expenses will put you near your limit, if not a bit over. But I'm guessing, if you take care in your "redundancy" , proper fusing, and line gauge, you will have a rocking and amazing system.

Most of that stuff I already have on the shelf anyway. I make my own bus bars with copper braid etc. Housings I tend build myself as well.
 

upnorthandpersonal

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Oh this should be fun! Looking forward to updates on this build :D

All the parts are coming in this week and next. Batteries are here, so is the inverter. Charge controllers are coming this afternoon or tomorrow. BMS had a bit of a delay but should be here this week. Solar panels should finally be here next week. I'm making those braided copper bus bars over the weekend or so.

Definitely fun!
 

Ryang

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It doesn't, but I'm designing and adding that myself.


Not sure if this helps now. I asked them after I asked you, they sent me a link i couldnt find elsewhere. They have both wireless and wired controllers.

Here an example (i was only after 2500w). https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000785699268.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.11.5ecd300aAp76p9

the thing i like about these inverter is the 25amp direct wire i can wire back into the RV switchboard to act as a mains. They are a little expensive so it was great to read your early positive feedback on the inverter. And a nice low draw at idle aswell!
 

upnorthandpersonal

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Seems that's for a different type - I definitely don't have that port on mine. However I wasn't really looking for extra features; just wanted a straight forward inverter that could do 5kW continuous and a decent surge capacity, and it seems to fit the bill. I'll do more testing later once I have all the components hooked up and installed properly.
 

ghostwriter66

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From LA -work in South Texas/New Mexico region

Sparky

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The government is certainly sensitive to the damage done to the country's manufacturing image by bad products, and has prosecuted some company execs for the more egregious cases.

They executed some people who they named as responsible. Zheng Xiaoyu, for instance , and Zhang Shuhong possibly would have been sentenced of it wasn't found that he had hanged himself.
 

upnorthandpersonal

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Some pictures of the equipment:

5kW, 10kW peak Reliable Electric inverter. No frills, but can apparently handle 4.5kW straight for hours based on my initial test. The fans are temperature driven, not load driven, so it's also a very quiet unit at low loads. Can't wait to push this thing to see what it can handle - I've tested with some basic inductive loads and it handles those just fine.

DSC_1345-preview3.jpg

The sine wave looks good, even at high load. Ignore the peak-to-peak value below, it is higher but that scope is a bit off. It's closer to 320V as it should be, being this is an inverter configured to 230V RMS.

DSC_1342-preview3.jpg

The BMS is compact and feels very robust, encased in metal all the way. Proper copper leads, two external temperature sensors. It supports low and high temp cut-off. Of course, 'manual' is lacking, so just for reference: it won't turn on until you put a charger on it (voltage applied needs to be higher than the battery voltage), the Bluetooth pairing code is '1234' and the pin code to make changes to the BMS values is '123456'.

DSC_1348-preview3.jpg

Screenshot of the app. I just put a quick 16 cell pack together, so ignore things like wire resistances and remaining capacity etc. The voltages are looking good, and the integrated balancing seems to work very well. This is the 100A discharge current with 0.6A balancing current version I got to test and play with. If this thing works properly, I'll get the one with 300A discharge current with 2A balancing current version.

Screenshot_2020-06-10-14-48-36.png

Finally, the charge controllers. They feel very robust, and they are pretty small. This one should be able to push 100A, so I got two - one for each 5kW part of the solar array. Its downside is that it only handles up to 145V on the input, so I'm only putting two panels in series. I've not tested this one yet except powering it on. Solar panels should arrive next week and then I'll make a proper installation.

DSC_1349-preview3.jpg

First impressions on everything: this could actually work :)
 
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gnubie

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If you are game throw some decent inductive loads at the inverter to see if it keeps running or shutsdown or goes bang. For giggles, can you see what sort of RFI comes out of the inverter? You never know, they may actually have some decent filtering in there.
 

upnorthandpersonal

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If you are game throw some decent inductive loads at the inverter to see if it keeps running or shutsdown or goes bang. For giggles, can you see what sort of RFI comes out of the inverter? You never know, they may actually have some decent filtering in there.

Yes, already threw some inductive loads on it; will do more once I have it all installed properly. So far, so good. I can do some RFI checks as well. I'll borrow some equipment from the EMC lab :)
 

gnubie

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Would you mind popping the lids off this stuff and taking some pictures down the track? Looking at Reliable's shop they say they use Nippon capacitors, so I'm interested to see if the sleeving has Nippon on them or not. Of course could still be fakes but a step in the right direction.
 

gnubie

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Another request, as I think of them :), please check the voltages that appear on the MUST charger's terminals and compare with the values it shows on the display, and the same with the current. Looking at how accurate it is out of the box and if it has any option in the menu to apply an offset to compensate and error.
 

gnubie

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Thanks for the pics, disappointing that they don't actually use Nippons but I guess you can't believe everything you read on Alibaba and the 40,000 thieves.
 

upnorthandpersonal

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Worst case I swap them out at some point. I think I'll destroy the mosfets with some of the testing I plan to do. At least you can buy replacement PCB's and components from them - they actually have a pretty good support channel.
 

upnorthandpersonal

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@Bob B @ghostwriter66 I won't have time this weekend as I planned, but I made a quick concept version - see pictures below. This is done with the wrong vise and at the end of the braid which I usually discard since it tends to be all 'fluffy' - it's also not fully inserted. I also didn't drill the hole. The annealed copper tube was 18mm outer, 16mm inner diameter and the braid is ~25mm wide. One can tin the end part with a torch if needed/desired without solder wicking all the way on the braid (it's a pretty controlled process, you can also feed solder through the drilled hole, etc.).

One nice thing about using tube like this is that you can create single strands with multiple contacts, so if you for example want to have one with three holes (two ends and middle), this is easy as well.

DSC_1395-preview3.jpg

DSC_1396-preview3.jpg

If needed, you can also grind the ends a little should they not be fully flat. However in the pictures above that's just because of the wrong vise.
 
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