diy solar

diy solar

Thoughts on my system? Fuses, busbars, battery safety

 
 
Sorry to butt in. I need a busbar in order to add a second battery. The ones on Amazon are all tin coated brass not copper. For 200amps rating is that acceptable? Can't seem to find any copper ones in stock.
 
tomy2 said:
Sorry to butt in. I need a busbar in order to add a second battery. The ones on Amazon are all tin coated brass not copper. For 200amps rating is that acceptable? Can't seem to find any copper ones in stock.
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I ordered the bluesea ones on amazon. They have different amp options.
 
I am sure you already built this and if so, pardon the post. I thought the smart shunt was supposed to be the first thing off the negative terminal of the batteries with nothing in between it and the battery? Am I wrong?
 
Check out a system that has no buss bars, batteries, charge controller or maintainance.
It's a good read ?
diysolarforum.com

New no battery pure sine wave solar power system with smart switchers.

Introduction: Hi all, I am not a company or business of any kind but a retired tech that is trying to win at this new green power transition, this project deals with mains voltages (126) VAC! (181) VDC! will require correct wire sizes,fusing, insulation and isolation transformers to interact...
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SniperX said:
I am sure you already built this and if so, pardon the post. I thought the smart shunt was supposed to be the first thing off the negative terminal of the batteries with nothing in between it and the battery? Am I wrong?
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You are correct.
 
MrThisIsME said:
Understand safety, but this is overkill. Go price 4/0 cable and you will be in for a shock. Use this chart and make your sizing more correct.

Battery Cable Charts

info.waytekwire.com info.waytekwire.com
If you want to be safe, use the 24v chart for your application. It will bump up the gauge by 1. You also have open terminals with all your open bus bars and fuse holders. If you wanted to be safe, put it in DIN cabinet -no exposed contacts, It will be cleaner and cost less as well. Just make sure the DIN rail breakers are DC rated.

Not sure what this means.

Since your max load is a 3000k invertor with a draw of ~70amps, I would do the whole thing in 6ga.
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Oh my. This is new info to me, but I’m still learning. My math said that my 2000W inverter could draw a max of about 16A on the AC side but 166A from the battery DC side. How do you figure a 3000W inverter would only draw 70A.

Also that battery chart is very different than the ones I’ve seen. The ones I’ve seen before by googling “amp capacity wire gauge” said that for 166A I’d need at least 1/0AWG. If your chart is true, I could’ve saved a ton of money. I mean it was only 6 feet of cable, but we’re on a budget here.
 
Tomthumb62 said:
It’sa Renogy 2000W 12v inverter. Not bad but wouldn’t buy it again. The idle draw is fairly high at 24W. I think it was an Amazon Warehouse deal so we didn’t pay top retail price.
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Tomthumb62 said:
Oh my. This is new info to me, but I’m still learning. My math said that my 2000W inverter could draw a max of about 16A on the AC side but 166A from the battery DC side. How do you figure a 3000W inverter would only draw 70A.
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It's just me, but if you are stuck with a 12v bank but needing to hook up fairly large loads at the same time, I would use 2 2kw inverters on the same bank. Double set of wires that you can use, plus you will have some redundancy, and you can turn off one when not needed.
 
chess-equality said:
It's just me, but if you are stuck with a 12v bank but needing to hook up fairly large loads at the same time, I would use 2 2kw inverters on the same bank. Double set of wires that you can use, plus you will have some redundancy, and you can turn off one when not needed.
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Good to know. Don’t need that kind of load. Actually considering downgrading to 1000W inverter.
 
MartyByrde said:
Hi all,

I will be building this system next week and wanted to thank all the help I’ve gotten from this forum.

I’ve attached a final blueprint for the system (excluding the solar and AC panel box). I’m planning to have approximately 60 to 80 of the Santan solar 240w panels. Five 6S strings into a combiner box for each of the two Growatt SC48120-MPV charge controllers. VOC will be 223.2V versus 250VDC max. Also three 6S strings into the Growatt SPF 3000TL LVM-ES.

Both charge controllers and the inverter are connected to a BlueSea 600A 8-pole busbar. I used Windy Nation ANL fuses 120A (charge controller) and 100A (inverter). And 2 AWG welding cable.

The five 14kw battery packs are LiFePo4 cells (3.2v 280Ah) arranged 16S. They have the 100A Overkill Solar BMS and I’m using 2/0 cable. I have 200Amp breakers for each battery positive wire but I may need to get a 120Amp breaker instead. I don’t want it tripping too easily because then it will overload the other packs.

All five battery packs are paralleled onto separate BlueSea 600A 8-pole busbars. These battery busbars are connected to the inverter/charge controller busbar by 4/0 wire. This 4/0 has Bluesea 400A Class T fuse on the positive wire and Victron 500A Smartshunt on the negative wire.


Inside the enclosed trailer I plan to ground the three combiner boxes, panel box, and the trailer frame to an 8ft copper bar outside the trailer. The three combiner boxes will be inside the enclosed trailer.

The solar panels will be grounded separately to an 8ft copper bar.



Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!View attachment 106173
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your shut might be in the wrong place , it's only going to show charging , not discharging
 
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