diy solar

diy solar

Thoughts on this system.

Wonder if @Will Prowse knows his YouTube video is in this sites advertisement.

I would only recommend that you be sure this system is sized to what you need for the inverter, batteries and wiring. 1000 watts is not a lot of power. This may be cheaper than buying the components separately, but if you ever need more power seems to me you would need to buy a new all in one, instead of getting just getting a new inverter or adding an SCC.
 
Wonder if @Will Prowse knows his YouTube video is in this sites advertisement.

I would only recommend that you be sure this system is sized to what you need for the inverter, batteries and wiring. 1000 watts is not a lot of power. This may be cheaper than buying the components separately, but if you ever need more power seems to me you would need to buy a new all in one, instead of getting just getting a new inverter or adding an SCC.
I realize this is small but I’m just running a few led lights and TV. Used primarily on weekends only. Everything else is gas.
 
Agree with @chrisski that 1000w is not much. A typical, ordinary US house plug is 15a @ 120v = 1800w + can do surge (like a vacuum cleaner). Next up there are plenty of 20a @ 120v plugs in kitchens etc = 2400w.

Personally, I'd step up to an MPP Solar LV2424 (24v battery, 2400w) like this - https://shopsolarkits.com/products/mpp-solar-lv-2424-all-in-one-solar-system

or an MPP Solar 3048LV (48v battery, 3000w) like this - https://watts247.com/product/pip-3048lv-mk/

The EG4 line (very similar to MPP Solar above) + batteries are in current discussions/youtubes right now - https://solarpowertheworld.com/749-...000w-inverter-5000w-mppt-80a-battery-charger/ and seem reasonable products for the pricing.

Between all of these + battery reviews by @Will and others - you should get a pretty good sense of 'reasonable pricing'. There's nothing special about a kit in my experience :)
 
I realize this is small but I’m just running a few led lights and TV. Used primarily on weekends only. Everything else is gas.
Without a power audit, this would work for what you’re asking. I would recommend a power audit.

It seems you’re well under 1500 wh of power, which is a comfortable goal for 2400 wh of lithium batteries. Also, in the power consumption, you may need to add an idle draw of the all in one. My 12 volt inverter can pull about 300 wh a day just to be powered on. That can be the winter output of a 100 watt panel.

Gotchas are things like charging a laptop , which you can plan for 250 watts, but may be less or more. A bigger gotcha is guests who really don’t realize how much plugging in their “couple of” high wattage items for “a little bit,” especially when you’re not there can drain those batteries dead.

Once this system is hooked up, if you need more power you can see whether you need more panels or batteries.
 
Once this system is hooked up, if you need more power you can see whether you need more panels or batteries.

I always had this opinion that 1200W inverter was a minimum for any cabin or truncated household use so I bought a Giandel 1200W for my offgrid camper. Worked great, would run my fridge, coffeemaker, shopvac….

Currently running a 1012LV-MK myself and I love it. It has two drawbacks: one is the 29-48W usually 45-ish no-load draw. Which is low but has an impact on a small system. The other is 1000W will not start my vacuum without pulsing the switch before leaving it on.

Solution? I have a Reliable 2000W pure sine I can plug into and turn on (or the Giandel in a box).

Other than that the 1012LV is dumb reliable and stupid simple imho. My only regret is not something I can control: it’s not available with a 1500W inverter.

So for a basic system I’d consider it again. In your case I’d mention that the MK version is more money but not much AND it will take more panels up to (iirc) 140VOC or something like that. Much more useful at 840Wh no load consumption.

I’d probably not use the inverter for lighting when 12V is available, but use 12V lighting. That’s just me though. It’s not a technical problem it’s a psychological issue for me LOL
 
I always had this opinion that 1200W inverter was a minimum for any cabin or truncated household use so I bought a Giandel 1200W for my offgrid camper. Worked great, would run my fridge, coffeemaker, shopvac….

Currently running a 1012LV-MK myself and I love it. It has two drawbacks: one is the 29-48W usually 45-ish no-load draw. Which is low but has an impact on a small system. The other is 1000W will not start my vacuum without pulsing the switch before leaving it on.

Solution? I have a Reliable 2000W pure sine I can plug into and turn on (or the Giandel in a box).

Other than that the 1012LV is dumb reliable and stupid simple imho. My only regret is not something I can control: it’s not available with a 1500W inverter.

So for a basic system I’d consider it again. In your case I’d mention that the MK version is more money but not much AND it will take more panels up to (iirc) 140VOC or something like that. Much more useful at 840Wh no load consumption.

I’d probably not use the inverter for lighting when 12V is available, but use 12V lighting. That’s just me though. It’s not a technical problem it’s a psychological issue for me LOL
Thanks for the input. Still haven’t decided on what to get. Have been thinking about his system and would probably cover everything I have and room for expansion.

 
If you have no desire/need for 12V stuff that will work. Having 800W of panels on a similar (12V) unit myself I might want 4 more panels to use that in winter.

2800 isn’t a bad price but it ain’t a wicked low price. If I guess at prices of stuff the panels might be a little bit pricey imho

Ring up watts247 and see what he can offer.
 
If you have no desire/need for 12V stuff that will work. Having 800W of panels on a similar (12V) unit myself I might want 4 more panels to use that in winter.

2800 isn’t a bad price but it ain’t a wicked low price. If I guess at prices of stuff the panels might be a little bit pricey imho

Ring up watts247 and see what he can offer.
Honestly I’d like to stay on a 12v system. Just wish mpp solar made a little bit larger wattage inverter for 12v as an All In One. Kinda like having everything in one little box plus could run generator through as well. Are their any other options? Would like at least a 2000 w inverter.
 
This version of inverter

PIP1012LV-MK​

In order to get 2000 watts do you buy two and parallel them together. Up to 9. If each unit is around $625. How is that cost effective?
 
This version of inverter

PIP1012LV-MK​

In order to get 2000 watts do you buy two and parallel them together. Up to 9. If each unit is around $625. How is that cost effective?
Victron has I think a 12V 3000 watt but the price… makes that cost effective.

But seriously- one -MK and one of these for occasional use would do it.
 
Does this system look like a good alternative?
It’s a cart system.
You could build with the 1012lv or the 2424 etc.

MY diy build is a complete birds nest of cables, extension cords, & power strips.

I bought everything off of Amazon.
$1k on batteries, $500 Solar, $250 inverter, $250misc. I spent easily $2k total.

1 year later I think I should have just spent the money and bought a 2x 200ah 24v battery and system with 1600w Solar and the lv2424 or similar all-in-one. I’m not disciplined enough to build my own and have it look clean and be safe.
 
So what is the advantage/disadvantage of 12v or 24 v.
For example my cabin is wired like a normal house but fed by generator. Generator feeds a breaker panel. Panel feeds lights and outlets on 3 separate breakers. So in my situation would 12v or 24v be better.?

Also looking at watt hours
2 12v 100amp/hr batteries wired in parallel provides 12v 200amp/ hrs.= 2400 watt/hours

Same 2 12v battery 100amp/hr wired in series provides 24v at 100amp/hrs. = 2400watt/hrs

Is this correct????
Very new to all this just asking a lot of ?s
Thanks for all the input.
 
2400watt/hrs

Is this correct????
Yes
my cabin is wired like a normal house but fed by generator
That’s good
what is the advantage/disadvantage of 12v or 24 v.
If you’ll never be using more than 1500W- or 2000W tops- continuously 12V is fine.

The amperage of building 2000W+ at 12V requires cables twice the size of 24V requirements for equal wattage. Big amps need big cables - it does get expensive. Plus the practicality of using 6” diameter cables never mind the delivery potential of the battery at high amperage are other concerns.

If you don’t need over 2000W then I think it’s an advantage to stay 12V. Especially if you want to take advantage of very low consumption DC lighting options without inverter dependency. Or even charge the batteries with the car if you have to someday (I’ve done that a half-dozen times or more over the last 4+ years)
 
That’s why I thought about the 24v system for around $2800. Like the idea of everything come together with this setup. Inverter, battery, panels, cables. Etc. if I ever decide to add more to the cabin like a fridge I would have plenty of watts. Plus if I ever need to run a vacuum or skill saw that shouldn’t overload the 2400w inverter like it would on a 1000w inverter. I could save some $$$ if I would buy a inverter and controller separately but I just like the simplicity of the AIO inverter. However since this is my first go around with this is the AIO worth the extra $$$?? Also I could run my generator through the AIO.
 
However since this is my first go around with this is the AIO worth the extra $$$??
I am quite happy about the MPPSolar unit I bought. The kit mentioned at $2800 feels like there’s $400 to save in there imho, and no in-use volume data on the batteries while with SOK you know what you can expect.
 
That kit comes with a mpp solar unit
And two lifePO4 batteries with 10 yr warranty
As I price things out separate in the kit
Inverter=$650
Batteries =$1100
Panels=960
Total without any wiring is $2710..
 
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