Tilted solar panels vs more flat panels for off road use

[Bob B]

Here is a closeup photo.

And I simply used a trailer connector and cord for the control panel wiring.

I like that it tilts the back up instead of side to side ..... If you find time .... any more info would be greatly appreciated.

 

[chrisski]

Interesting, I thought there was a bigger difference. I assume it was sunny with direct light when you measured.

It was sunny, but the kind that comes with scattered clouds. I will measure that again when there's no clouds.

 

[Zwy]

I think this is the simplest and most effective system I've seen so far!
You have one actuator in the middle of each panel right? Because they go up on the longer side.

Yes, I have a uni strut that goes all the way across the camper and angles the panels sit on for strength laterally. One actuator per side of the camper to prevent any twist. Uni strut fits into a saddle in the back which doubles as the mount for the actuator. It is quite simple. I used stainless 3/8" rod for the long pin, it's what I had laying around.

Do you know roughly how heavy it is?
I'd like to understand how much weight is needed and if it's worth it for the advantage of tilt compared to just "overpanel"

It's not that heavy really, those actuators have plenty of power. Doesn't even draw full amps.

I totally get you don't have time to write a comprehensive thread and that's probably too much to ask. I think I got the basics of it, then of course every system is different based on the space and size of panels, so we all need to do our part.

The actuator will easily handle it. You want the hinge pivot as low as possible to get the leverage and the actuator pivot near the roof as low as possible. I had made some brackets 2 months prior as I was planning a trip and then when I finally went to make the rear saddle, I decided to just order some actuators and ended up making the hinges as there are now. I was planning on using a different setup but decided I wanted a self locking mechanism of some sort. That's how this went, I really had no idea what I planned on using. These are 100w Renogy mono panels. The reason these were chosen was I can just get 4 across the roof of the camper side by side and have 2 rows thus far. Maybe a third row is coming but would require a rack to clear the ventilation fan, shower skylight and fridge vent.

I would have mounted flat except the roof air would have shaded one panel. And I planned on heading to AZ and TX in the winter when the sun was low on the horizon and heard many found the output in the winter just was a little short.

I have purchased the Senville mini split but it will be a month or more before I work on that install. Have a wedding to attend in 3 weeks plus I could use a vacation. When the roof air comes off, I have 2 more panels to install in between. That will give me 800 watts total.

For the actuators, I used the 20 inch ones here: https://www.windynation.com/Linear-...-Momentary-or-Maintained-Up/-/2178?p=YzE9Mjg=

Those will tilt the panels a full 90 degrees. You could go shorter if you only want 45 or 60 degrees which would help on the initial move up off the saddle. You might be able to get by with 12 inch. I had hinges made and wanted the full 90 degrees so I could stand the panels straight for cleaning the roof and access for anything I needed to do for repairs. So I just tilted them up and measured what length I roughly needed to get to 90 degrees. With a shorter actuator you could sit closer to the roof, however you really want 3.5 to 4" under the panel to clear the motor which will be on the top. I've included a photo of the base so you can see how that was made.

I used the momentary switch but would have preferred the Maintained UP/DOWN instead as I set it up to turn off each actuator auto when retracting.

On a side note, anyone know why the Dicor turned pinkish color? Drives me nuts.

 

[Zwy]

I like that it tilts the back up instead of side to side ..... If you find time .... any more info would be greatly appreciated.

Just ask, I'll answer questions as I find time.

 

[Bob B]

Just ask, I'll answer questions as I find time.

Do you have a close up picture of the other end of the actuator mount like the one that shows the base.

Is the latching mechanism just attached to a pin that goes thru the actuator end and slides in the slot?

 

[Zwy]

Do you have a close up picture of the other end of the actuator mount like the one that shows the base.

Not sure what you're asking but below is the base photo and the other end of the actuator.

Is the latching mechanism just attached to a pin that goes thru the actuator end and slides in the slot?

The latching pin is a long rod attached to the actuator pivot in the second photo. I call it a key, it is to the other side of the actuator. It looks like a key because I welded a piece of flat to the rod.

A bolt goes thru the slot with spacers holding the actuator and key apart. Flat washers on each side of the slotted angle and between the actuator pivot and key spacers. Bolt is double nutted so it can't loosen or tighten. You want just a slight drag, not too tight or too loose. Ensure no burrs on anything. I made the slots in my end mill, if you don't have one I'm sure a machine shop could help you out. You need to know the full stroke of the key for locking the panel. Mine is the full width of the saddle plus 3/4" as I wanted a visual indicator showing past where the rod pokes out the backside. That dimension plus about 1/4" to 3/8" would be the slot length.

If wind tends to make the actuator ride up in the slot (which I don't think it will due to gravity) a simple spring will hold the pivot point at the front of the slot. I haven't tested in heavier wind yet, but if it comes to that it wouldn't take much to hold it.

Edit: stroke length is the width of the saddle plus the 3/8" plus the needed retraction to clear the saddle lip. I think it was 3/4".

 

[Bob B]

Thank you @Zwy ..... The picture plus the explanation makes it clear.

 

[fratermus]

So that means it can vary with different kinds of panels and configurations?

I didn't state a conclusion because I want people to test their own systems rather than taking my word (or anyone else's word) in the matter.

With my setup I did observe a pattern in parallel and series production, and it seems to be related to combined panel voltage compared to battery bank voltage. Panel type and configuration was a non-issue, except in how that contributed to combined panel voltage. Note, however, that all my panels are plain rather than exotics like bifacial, half-cut, etc.

I suspect the controller's ability to find all the maxima greater than Vbatt in is a massive factor but i don't have another large (50A) controller to play with.

 

[filippomasoni]

I didn't state a conclusion because I want people to test their own systems rather than taking my word (or anyone else's word) in the matter.

With my setup I did observe a pattern in parallel and series production, and it seems to be related to combined panel voltage compared to battery bank voltage. Panel type and configuration was a non-issue, except in how that contributed to combined panel voltage. Note, however, that all my panels are plain rather than exotics like bifacial, half-cut, etc.

I suspect the controller's ability to find all the maxima greater than Vbatt in is a massive factor but i don't have another large (50A) controller to play with.

Got it, really interesting.

If I can find a supplier that can sell me only 2 panels (they only sell 10, the once I found so far) I'd like to go with 2 new LG NeON 2 370W for only 18kg each, with an efficiency of 21.4%.

Since you mentioned bifacial, I thought they didn't have any advantage in a flat-mounted vehicle roof. Also, what is a half-cut panel?

 

[NPhil]

I hope it's OK to revive this thread, because I think I'm quite close (after more than 2 years) to putting a custom tilting and unfolding system on the roof of an old minivan. I'll let you know how it goes (or possibly not, if it's too embarrassing . BTW, it's a testbed now, and yesterday, a rainy day, I had 6 100W 17 Vmp panels on top, charging a 24V lithium ion battery system through a Epever Tracer AN 40A, and tried 3S 2P instead of my customary 2S (because I keep hearing it's going to be better). It wasn't obviously better, in several trials. Far from controlled, I know, but, it's not encouraging me to spend time, which is evidently in very short supply around here, on making a better test.