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Tiny 4 wire circuit connector

ArthurEld

Solar Wizard
Joined
Aug 3, 2020
Messages
2,271
Location
Palm Harbor, Florida
Guys, I need to connect to a tiny 4 pin connector and I don't know how to find the right part.
The pins are about the same distance apart as a jumper. It would be great if i could find the right connector but individual wire connectors would work too.
It is for the 4 pins above the green light in this picture.
If someone can point me where to look it will be greatly appreciated.
This is on a Mean Well power supply to control the power on/off.

mean well 4 pin connector.jpg
 
I think that is correct. It appears to have all of the correct slots for it to fit in.
My vision is getting bad. I'm using special lights and a magnifying glass.
Thanks smoothJoey. I will order a couple since they're 18 cents. Probably $20 shipping. ?
 
I think that is correct. It appears to have all of the correct slots for it to fit in.
My vision is getting bad. I'm using special lights and a magnifying glass.
Thanks smoothJoey. I will order a couple since they're 18 cents. Probably $20 shipping. ?
My vision is bad too.
Can someone with good vision have a look please?
I wonder if single DuPont connectors will work.
You said a jumper fits so I think individual or possibly double DuPont connectors will work.
If you have a personal computer kicking around I bet you can borrow a female DuPont connector to test.
 
I measured the pins and that connector looks right. I'll take a quick look in my old PCs.
Shipping is only $4.99 from Digi-Key anyway.
Yes but then you would probably need the crimps and crimping tool that go with it.
 
Thanks, I will look up tiny crimps and crimpers.
I did look in a PC and there were no 4 pin connectors but I measured a jumper and it was 3mm (.118).
I have a crappy old pair of dial calipers but I think my numbers are right.
 
Thanks, I will look up tiny crimps and crimpers.
I did look in a PC and there were no 4 pin connectors but I measured a jumper and it was 3mm (.118).
I have a crappy old pair of dial calipers but I think my numbers are right.
You want to find either the single or double dupont connectors.
If a single fits, you can work with that.
If a double fits, even better.
 
Those single connectors would definitely work. I will look around.
I am fairly confident that the 4 pin connector you started with is right. But there's no way to be sure without trying it.
I have never put wires into these connectors but I'm sure there's lots of youtube videos
I'll keep digging.
 
I am fairly confident that the 4 pin connector you started with is right.
Me too.
I'm suggesting to do proof of concept with the bits you have probabaly already have instead of weighting for the next piece that leads to the next piece rince and repeat.
 
As for shorting s- to s+, I guess we put a 1 amp fuse in the circuit, just for safety.
I wonder if meanwell would consider this use or abuse?
 
Perl:
DF11-EP2428PCFA


make 16s pack with bms

battery.pos<->|->normally_closed_relay->power_supply_s.pos
              |<-48_volt_charger.pos
              
bms<--------->|<-normally_closed_relay<-power_supply_s.neg
              |->48_volt_charger.neg

disable bms balancing
set hi cell cutoff to 3.5 volts
set high pack cutoff as high as it will go so the hi cell cutoff trips first
charge the pack with 48 volt charger until one cell trips the hi cell cutoff
disconnect 48 volt charger
set hi cell cutoff to 3.65 volts
wait until the hi cell settles to the bms resume threshold 

foreach cell in cells
    connect power_supply charge leads to cell
    charge cell with power_supply
    bms triggers power_supply disconnect
    disconnect power_supply charge leads from cell
    wait until the high cell settles to the bms resume threshold 
next
 
Code:
charger+fuse|+cell_0.0-|+cell_0.1-
            f          f
            u          u
            s          s
            e          e   
            |+cell_1.0-|-charger

This ought to be a safe test
 
Will these blade fuses be ok? or these glass fuses?
I don't think so
An often overlooked fuse property is its arc interrupt capacity.
Even though the voltage is low I dont think atc or glass fuses will suffice.
Also those fuses you linked look like scary amazon crap.
"

Conductor of car fuses holder: Tinned copper​




  • Selecting high grade copper as conductor.
  • The surface is coated with aluminum in order to improve the heat and oxidation resistance of the conductive metal and above all, it has better solderability."
This is a good vendor and those 2 brands are the only ones I trust.
 
Thanks SmoothJoey, but the link you provided doesn't go to anything specific and I am having a difficult time finding high grade copper fuse holders. And I don't know which kind of fuse you are suggesting. When I just search for 1 amp fuse I only get one glass fuse.
 
these are my first choice for batteries and fused busbars https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1367/Fuses/&Fuse-Type=MRBF
These are the holders to use https://www.waytekwire.com/item/78261B/Blue-Sea-Systems-5196B-MRBF-Surface-Mount/
and https://www.waytekwire.com/item/45575/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-MRBF-Mounting-Bar-/

I would suggest a class t for the armageddon fuse but they don't seem to have a holder.
lets not worry about this parraleling test for now
I think the new process is good
I don't think you will be putting undo stress on a single cell because they are going to be pretty full and therefore close to/already in constant voltage mode(charge tapering)
 
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