diy solar

diy solar

Tiny build - boat trolling LiFePO4 battery

Maxxim

New Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2021
Messages
31
Hello all!

I have long been interested in acquiring a lithium battery for my small fishing boat bow thruster(trolling motor) due to the superior features of lithium(LiFePO4), the most important of which, in my opinion, is the ability to use the entire battery capacity without compromising the battery life. Sure not forgetting the lighter weight comparing to lead battery, and flatter voltage drop so it doens't affect the motor performance as much as lead acid battery does.

Of course, you can get ready-made lithium batteries locally, but the prices are quite high, like 600-1500 euros for a 100Ah lithium battery. So I decided to make the battery myself with these cheap Chinese LiFePO4 cells. But ordering the cells at an "affordable" price from Aliexpress in China proved surprisingly difficult. Two orders went unfulfilled, and about a couple of months in both cases were wasted waiting. The money did return immediately from Ali as long as the dispute was done. Apparently, the difficulties are due to the operation of the Chinese Post, no longer the so-called free shipping for larger shipments(shipping fees has gone up a lot). Well finally, one of the shipments arrived. 4 pcs 3.2V 100Ah cells, the price was 171 euros including all expenses. They where the new style with rectangular poles. They came pretty empty, with a voltage of 3.02V.

Although this order wasn't perfect either. One cell had been damaged in the transport, hit on the way, but when tested, there did not appear to be any electrical fault. After dispute I did get back the money for one cell.

I started by charging the cells individually to 3.32V voltage, after which I switched them all in parallel and I did the top balance, charged all connected in parallel to 3.6V until they no longer received any charge. The BMS I orderedfrom US. I wanted a well functioning and reliable BMS with temperature sensing that can cut off the charge in freezing temps. The choice fell on the Overkill Solar 120A 4S BMS. Certainly not the cheapest to get, $ 145 including chipping fees. The temperature sensor, a bluetooth receiver and pre-tinned power cables were included. BMS's settings can be managed and monitored with a free mobile app, which seemed to work very well. My first job was to make fastening clamps from 4mm aluminum and threaded rods to get those cells bundled together so that they stay firmly together and there is no risk of the poles being damaged. I will be adding more story and pictures to the thread...

Many thanks to Will Prowse and his youtube channel, has been very helpfull, and not forgetting this forum. Here is available a ton of info.

IMG_20210116_202401.jpgIMG_20210114_183508.jpgIMG_20210116_202503.jpgIMG_20210114_185412.jpgIMG_20210116_170445.jpgIMG_20210116_215852.jpg
 
A couple of pics of the boat that would be using the battery, before next update in the thread. Also has a 90W solar panel with an MPPT controller.

IMG_20201109_150717__01.jpgIMG_20201130_085529__01.jpgIMG_20201109_114209.jpg
IMG_20200711_152112.jpg
 
Last edited:
After the top balance, with the batteries connected in series and the BMS connected, it was time to test how the promised 100Ah capacity would be fullfilled. Ordered a low-cost 185W capacity tester. After 7h the test was over and the final reading was 99.25Ah. Not too bad. Under 3V there started to be some unbalance between the cells, so not very well matched, cell no. 3 reached the lower limit of 2.5V first.

IMG_20210116_214716.jpgIMG_20210117_044336.jpgScreenshot_20210117-044240__02.jpg
 
Want a easy charging setup that keeps the batteries topped up. Will use a 110Ah lead acid battery as starting battery and then this 100Ah lithium battery for the trolling motor. The lithium battery will be separated from the lead acid as it would drain it out. Charging will happen with a low current DC-DC converter as the outboard alternator in only 17 Amps.

Was testing a cheap DC-DC buck-boost charger, worked fine but gets really warm. Doesn't feel comfortable using it in a fixed installation. So I will be using a Victron Orion Tr 12/12-9 converter, adjusted to 14.6V. Works very well, charges the battery up to 100% and then the BMS cuts off the charging. Adjusted the overcharging release to 3.38V so it resets the charging only after the battery get some load.

IMG_20210121_124038__01.jpgIMG_20210126_145954__01.jpgIMG_20210126_223709__01.jpg
 
Was quite difficult to find a nice battery box. First I was planning of making my own, but got lazy, so ordered one from aliexpress. Quite amazing shipping time, only 4 days from China to Finland with fedex.

Inside the box I made a aluminium strenghtening plate, and it will also dispose the possible heat from the BMS. Between the plate and battery pack there is 15mm of damppening foam.

IMG_20210128_093350__01.jpgIMG_20210128_093408__01.jpgIMG_20210129_165259__01.jpgIMG_20210129_165320__01.jpgIMG_20210130_191051__01.jpg
 
The battery pack got little bit stiffer pressure plates, made of 8mm aluminium, and between the cells and the plates there is a layer of thin fiberglass reinforced rubber mat. Sides of the pack got 10mm insulation(heat shield) mat. Still waiting for 12W heat pads and a thermometer. The heat pads will fit between the threaded rods?

IMG_20210129_162245__01.jpgIMG_20210129_165149__01.jpgIMG_20210130_191209__01.jpgIMG_20210130_195146__01.jpg
 
I am waiting on 100ah cells. I plan to use the Overkill bms also. Good looking build
 
Thank you.

Little weight comparision.. 45Ah lead acid battery vs 100Ah LiFePO4 The tiny lead acid battery is just a kilogram lighter.

IMG_20210130_200616__01.jpgIMG_20210131_151024__01.jpgIMG_20210131_151127__01.jpg

Didn't wan't to glue on the box cover, so just strapped it with a cargo strap. Keeps it secured quite well. Recieved also a Victron Blue Smart IP67 25A charger that will be installed permamently in the boat.


IMG_20210201_210950__01.jpgIMG_20210202_203157__01.jpg
 
Looks good doing the same but using Milwaukee packout case for trolling motor the case I'm using will fit 272ah cells and should fit 280ah cells also PXL_20210204_231230411.jpgPXL_20210204_231246300.jpg
 
Want a easy charging setup that keeps the batteries topped up. Will use a 110Ah lead acid battery as starting battery and then this 100Ah lithium battery for the trolling motor. The lithium battery will be separated from the lead acid as it would drain it out. Charging will happen with a low current DC-DC converter as the outboard alternator in only 17 Amps.

Was testing a cheap DC-DC buck-boost charger, worked fine but gets really warm. Doesn't feel comfortable using it in a fixed installation. So I will be using a Victron Orion Tr 12/12-9 converter, adjusted to 14.6V. Works very well, charges the battery up to 100% and then the BMS cuts off the charging. Adjusted the overcharging release to 3.38V so it resets the charging only after the battery get some load.

View attachment 35452View attachment 35453View attachment 35454
Nice setup. I'm worry about your alternator, it will run almost full fielded all the time. What is your normal boat power consumption from the alternator? Alternators don't like to run at full capacity.
 
Strictly for trolling motor no alternator to worry about for 14ft tin fishing boat
 
Nice setup. I'm worry about your alternator, it will run almost full fielded all the time. What is your normal boat power consumption from the alternator? Alternators don't like to run at full capacity.
Thanks. Yes, that can be a problem. Mostly I will charge the batteries every time on land before I go fishing, as the boat sits on a trailer. The DC-DC converter has a on/off switch connector so I will use it only if I need more li-ion battery power when I am on water. Also total power consumption depends on what electronics are in use. Chartplotters and sonar will draw ~2-5A, lights can consume 100W(~7A) on full power, eco mode is a lot less.
 
Back
Top