Certainly, but I’m lazy and like to live dangerously.I see up with the oem small wire vs 10 guague wire with ring ends.
with the 10g wire the power supply is putting out 5 more amps and running on current limit
with the small wire there was a .3 volt drop on the wire
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Yes, that’s faster (if you don’t mind rewiring your terminal connections more often.If you want to top balance quickly.
configure pack in serial with bms.
Charge with a high amperage system voltage charger until the bms trips on high cell.
Then configure as parallel and finish with a traditional top balance.
Not necessarily because they would presumably be close to the same voltage and SOC unless they were way out of balance or one was a runner.But wouldn't there be a huge spark show from the different voltages when connecting in parallel after charging in series?
I check my cells after series-charging and assure they are within 2mV of each other before connecting in parallel (using a power resistor or the charger if needed).Not necessarily because they would presumably be close to the same voltage and SOC unless they were way out of balance or one was a runner.
LOL that is a good example of:my other pack charging at 12v 25 amp
I will stop at 13.8v then swirch.. only charge when in the roomLOL that is a good example of:
No BMS
Different Interconnects.
Alligator clips on nuts instead of lugs on terminal tops.
A human being is the BMS and stays up all night with a multimeter measuring cell voltage every 15 minutes.
Using a car battery charger is a good way to check for cell uniformity in the presence of higher charge current.LOL that is a good example of:
No BMS
Different Interconnects.
Alligator clips on nuts instead of lugs on terminal tops.
A human being is the BMS and stays up all night with a multimeter measuring cell voltage every 15 minutes.
I had confidence that you would do it the correct and safe way. After spending a few hours and some posts on another thread with a newby, your picture was the next thing I saw and I had to give it a laugh.I will stop at 13.8v then swirch.. only charge when in the room
Something that made me laugh is that I see my exact 12V car battery charger slightly out of focus in the background.I had confidence that you would do it the correct and safe way. After spending a few hours and some posts on another thread with a newby, your picture was the next thing I saw and I had to give it a laugh.
I am trying to get my packs charged up so i can do a load test.... don't think these will ever see "high current" charge (.5c or 1c) one pack is charging at .1c and the other is .008c. today i will switch the packs around... i think my 4s pack is about 90% and finish with top balanceSomething that made me laugh is that I see my exact 12V car battery charger slightly out of focus in the background.
I’m only able to test charging my cells at 10 or 20A (0.036C or 0.7C) while if I test at 12V I could test at 35A (0.125C).
Is testing at that (modestly) higher charge rate worth the trouble? Have any Forum members recieved cells that failed under high-current charge?
Yes, and note the ring terminals and staggered loading on battery connections.It never occured to me that I could simply put ring terminals on the output studs of the power supply.