Truck camper build - Analysis paralysis on components

[DerekW]

Hi all. First time build here. Building for a small fiberglass truck camper. I need to be able to setup a relatively robust remote work environment as I'll be working on the road with starlink doing software development.

I'm struggling to nail down what components I actually want to go with.

Needs to cover:
- A couple laptops and a monitor. (this usually doesn't go past 100watts)
- Smallish DC fridge.
- Starlink (believe I'll be around 75watts here)
- Electricity for diesel heater. (small wattage)
- Occasional usage of a 300-1200 watt DC air conditioner. (imagining I'll only use in shortish bursts and don't plan too much time in hot climates, but this is a bit of a wildcard as I need to be able to control my work climate for productivity)

Inputs: (for a 12V system, I suppose I could be talked into 48v but it sounds a bit more complicated)
DC - DC is my primary (I'll be driving a lot, imagine at least an hour a day and the multiple hours every few days. Have a truck with a good alternator)
Solar - At least one 200 watt flexible panel to start, maybe two eventually.
Shore - AC charger. Don't plan using this unless I really need too. But want to build in the option.

Budget: Approx 3000
Looks like about half on batteries, half on everything else. Unrealistic? Haven't added up tools and wires/cables etc yet.

Components? Here are my current thoughts, but I want your suggestions as I'm pretty undecided. One of the big questions I have is whether or not it's a bad idea to by combo components. (inverter/charger and dc-dc+mppt)

It's kind of a small rig and I like the idea of keeping it as simple as possible. Trying 1 big 460AH battery + dual dc+dc/mppt and the inverter/charger combo would be my initial preference.

Batteries (to begin with) Figured 600ah would do the trick, but may well be able to get away with less and may start that way.
Options I'm considering
- 2x Epoch 300 (non coms)
- 1x Epoch 460 (non coms)
- 2x Sok 280

Want something with a heater built in. These seem like the best respected options out there right now. Please feel free to suggest something else or why I might want to go with one over the other.

DC-DC charger
First thought is to go with the combined Renogy DC-DC MPPT charger. (Are there any better combo dc-dc + mppt?)

Why? Less complicated, more concise to implement than separate chargers. Cheaper than going with separate components.
Outside of that... I'm probably looking at the latest Victron DC-DC offering. Any other contenders?

Yes, I've read bad things about Renogy support at times and that gives me pause...

MPPT charger
See above. Go with the renogy combo offering or probably a Victron mppt. Any others to consider?

Inverter
So I'm thinking I don't really need to go past 2000watts. Something pure sine wave, see some of Will's budget recommendations that seem to do really well and wonder if that would be good enough. But then I have to figure out a charger.

A bit turned off bit victron's pricing on the dual inverter/charger. Are there any other good inverter/charger combos that aren't almost 1,000 dollars?

And again, the dual component question.

Please feel free to suggest what components make sense and if my dual component approach is good enough long term.

 

[Brucey]

Needs to cover:
- A couple laptops and a monitor. (this usually doesn't go past 100watts)
- Smallish DC fridge.
- Starlink (believe I'll be around 75watts here)
- Electricity for diesel heater. (small wattage)
- Occasional usage of a 300-1200 watt DC air conditioner. (imagining I'll only use in shortish bursts... but is a wildcard)

If you can control the power demand of the AC unit then a Victron 12/1200 inverter can satisfy those loads.

Got a fridge freezer, a chest freezer and an upright freezer on my 48/1200. along with network gear, wfh setup etc. less than 500W for that base load.

I just added an LG inverter windows ac unit which is an additional 500W or so, now I'm at around 1000VA util. Thinking of getting a second 48/1200 and dedicating it to the ac unit then could add a second window unit.

 

[Brucey]

oh that reminds me, there is a multiplus 12/1200 in 120V that's just been released in the US, includes a 50A charger, transfer switch etc. $480 or so but limited qtys.

 

[DerekW]

oh that reminds me, there is a multiplus 12/1200 in 120V that's just been released in the US, includes a 50A charger, transfer switch etc. $480 or so but limited qtys.

Oh nice. That may work. Assume it can temporary output more for a burst. Still need to figure out the behavior of that AC as I don't have my hands on it yet. (overlanding outfitter is going to install it on camper before I get it)

Edits: Ideally would like more than 50a charge on AC, but perhaps that much juice isn't a great idea. (battery should be able to accept up to 200 at least)

 

[Brucey]

Yes it surges much more than 1200VA when the fridge or freezer compressors kick in. For additional shore charging you could add an IP22 12/30 charger for an extra 30A, or move up to the 12/2000 which has an 80A charger and larger form factor:

Amazon.com

 

[DerekW]

Yes it surges much more than 1200VA when the fridge or freezer compressors kick in. For additional shore charging you could add an IP22 12/30 charger for an extra 30A, or move up to the 12/2000 which has an 80A charger and larger form factor:

Amazon.com

So I'm a dope and forgot that my air conditioning unit will be DC power. So no worries going with a smaller inverter.

 

[mikefitz]

And again, the dual component question

Don't, go with seperate component Victron units, the combined MPPT/DC to DC from Renogy and similar, have limitations .
Consider, all Victron units,
Smart MPPT 100/30
Orion XS 50A dc to dc
Inverter, unknown power requirements, if critical go for a Victron unit
Shore power charger, Victron IP22 12v 30A
Battery monitor, Victron Smart Shunt.
The Victron stuff communicates to each other via Bluetooth VE bus, so all chargers get accurate battery info from the smart shunt.

 

[Rednecktek]

Well, you Could certainly go with all Victron products, but you have a budget which makes that difficult. Here are my thoughts:

Build your own batteries. 4s 280ah or 304Ah LFP cells with a JBD 200a BMS in a Noco DC31 box with a 12v pet heater pad on a digital thermostat with hefty terminal lugs will run you about $600/battery. 2 batteries are about $1200 which gets you near that 600Ah battery wish.

Ionic 2Kw AIO Low Frequency AIO will be just under $1000USD shipped and covers your shore power input, your 80a MPPT solar input, 35a of AC charging, and your 120v output.

Get a 120v fridge, they're WWAAYY cheaper than a 12v per cubic foot of storage.

Ignore the DC-DC with the built in MPPT, the voltage range on the solar side is worthless. Save yourself the few bucks and get the version without.

That still leaves you about $800 in the budget for all the solar panels you can fit up top, the DC-Dc charger, DIN rail breakers, boxes, wires, etc. Go with some used panels off Craigslist (250w are about $100ea on average) and stick 4 of them up top in a 2s2p config OR if shading is an issue, grab a combiner box and go 4p like I did on my camper.

Sriko Batteries and Docan have both been very good to me. Good support, fast USA shipping, and fair pricing. Sriko tends to have B-grade cells, but that's fine for the few of my smaller projects that didn't need 120% listed capacity like my portable diesel heater.

Just my $0.02 anyways.

 

[DerekW]

Well, you Could certainly go with all Victron products, but you have a budget which makes that difficult. Here are my thoughts:

Build your own batteries. 4s 280ah or 304Ah LFP cells with a JBD 200a BMS in a Noco DC31 box with a 12v pet heater pad on a digital thermostat with hefty terminal lugs will run you about $600/battery. 2 batteries are about $1200 which gets you near that 600Ah battery wish.

Ionic 2Kw AIO Low Frequency AIO will be just under $1000USD shipped and covers your shore power input, your 80a MPPT solar input, 35a of AC charging, and your 120v output.

Get a 120v fridge, they're WWAAYY cheaper than a 12v per cubic foot of storage.

Ignore the DC-DC with the built in MPPT, the voltage range on the solar side is worthless. Save yourself the few bucks and get the version without.

That still leaves you about $800 in the budget for all the solar panels you can fit up top, the DC-Dc charger, DIN rail breakers, boxes, wires, etc. Go with some used panels off Craigslist (250w are about $100ea on average) and stick 4 of them up top in a 2s2p config OR if shading is an issue, grab a combiner box and go 4p like I did on my camper.

Sriko Batteries and Docan have both been very good to me. Good support, fast USA shipping, and fair pricing. Sriko tends to have B-grade cells, but that's fine for the few of my smaller projects that didn't need 120% listed capacity like my portable diesel heater.

Just my $0.02 anyways.

Leaning towards sucking it up and just going with all Victron stuff.

I hadn't figured the solar panel into that number anyway.

I've got to try and put together the $$$ I'll spend on wires/fuses etc and tools.