diy solar

diy solar

Truck Camper Build

I've attached a revised wiring diagram based on the comments on page 1. It looks like all the battery wiring (fuses, bus bar, shunt, and switch) still fits on top of the battery box, but if it doesn't I'll migrate stuff to the wall above the box. The advantage of having it on the top of the box is I can wire stuff up before crawling to the end of the basement. :)
In case you are not aware the lynx power in does not have any provision for fuses.
Are you perhaps doing this trick?
 
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In case you are not aware the lynx power in does not have any provision for fuses.
Are you perhaps doing this trick?
Yes, I was planning on following this video to add fuses. I don't need the lights, so I figured I would save a few bucks by buying the power in instead of the distributor.
 
Now I'm second-guessing myself on the 3000VA being enough to carry the air conditioner... Since I have plenty of time, I'm thinking I might switch to larger JBD 24v 300A BMS and go with the Samlex Evo-4024. I think I can save around $500 by going that direction by doing the following:
  • Eliminate the Lynx (-$140) - The SCC will plug directly into the Samlex. And I'll go with an inverter in the truck which will plug into the generator port on the Samlex.
  • Eliminate the DC-DC charger (-$220) - replace it with a small MSW inverter in the truck and an extension cord.
  • Downsize the SCC (-$370) - at 24V I can get by with a Smartsolar 100/50.
  • Eliminate the Cerbo (-$300) - If my only Victron gear is the SCC and the Orion (24v>12v). I don't think I'll get much use from the cerbo.
  • Those would more than make up for the added costs of the Samlex vs the Multiplus ($100), the MSW inverter in the truck ($100), The larger wires ($200), and the Orion ($140)
 
What size is the A/C in the camper you ordered? TCs generally have small(er) A/C units - 7-9k, maybe 11k BTU. A 13.5 or 15k BTU unit like in the TTs I've had would be a monster for a TC, and probably overkill for such a small space.

A lot of the 'problems' with running A/C on anything other than shore power tend to circle back to the starting current surge of the compressor - once they're running, they don't draw nearly as much current. Something like a Microair EasyStart 364 can help with that.

And FWIW... maybe it's just the A/C unit in our TC... but with that damn thing running, I don't know that you could hear a generator running. Maybe one of the older open-frame Onan's, built-in and transmitting vibration directly to the camper, but definitely not a Honda EU 2200 outside on the ground.
 
What is your reasoning on the 12/3000 not being enough to run the air conditioner? I plan to put a soft start module on my air conditioner no matter what. That will help smooth the startup surge.

My aging 15k air conditioner is rated to consume 2117 watts at 115° F or 1748 watts at 95° F and the Locked Rotor Amps rating is 71 amps. I don't see me ever camping at 115° F. I head for the hills when it gets that hot. I think the Victron Multiplus is going to power my air conditioner just fine.
 
Now I'm second-guessing myself on the 3000VA being enough to carry the air conditioner... Since I have plenty of time, I'm thinking I might switch to larger JBD 24v 300A BMS and go with the Samlex Evo-4024. I think I can save around $500 by going that direction by doing the following:
  • Eliminate the Lynx (-$140) - The SCC will plug directly into the Samlex. And I'll go with an inverter in the truck which will plug into the generator port on the Samlex.
  • Eliminate the DC-DC charger (-$220) - replace it with a small MSW inverter in the truck and an extension cord.
  • Downsize the SCC (-$370) - at 24V I can get by with a Smartsolar 100/50.
  • Eliminate the Cerbo (-$300) - If my only Victron gear is the SCC and the Orion (24v>12v). I don't think I'll get much use from the cerbo.
  • Those would more than make up for the added costs of the Samlex vs the Multiplus ($100), the MSW inverter in the truck ($100), The larger wires ($200), and the Orion ($140)

Couple of thoughts on this...
1. Hope that Samlex charger is ok with modified sine way power.
Also since the inverter/charger will switch to bypass mode, I hope whatever is downstream is ok with MSW power as well.

2. You will either need a buck converter to power the 12 volt distribution center or power the ac2dc converter from the Samlex.
The latter is a bit inefficient but allows the new system to be located anywhere in the camper instead of having to be proximal to the ac/dic distribution center.
 
The AC unit is a Houghton 13,500 BTU unit. (https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-condi...5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/). The specs say it has a built-in soft start and the maximum power input is 1700W. So, I should be fine, right? What was worrying me is the Samlex owner's manual which talks about oversizing for air conditioners to 5 times the wattage. I would assume this is compensating for units that don't have a soft start installed.
 
The AC unit is a Houghton 13,500 BTU unit. (https://www.recpro.com/rv-air-condi...5k-quiet-ac-with-heat-pump-remote-non-ducted/). The specs say it has a built-in soft start and the maximum power input is 1700W.
That is no problem for the 3000va Victron or the 2200w Samlex evo.
So, I should be fine, right?
As long as you don't make popcorn in the Microwave while the AC is running.
What was worrying me is the Samlex owner's manual which talks about oversizing for air conditioners to 5 times the wattage. I would assume this is compensating for units that don't have a soft start installed.
The 5x factor is very likely based on locked rotor amps so I think your assumption is correct.
 
Now I'm second-guessing myself on the 3000VA being enough to carry the air conditioner... Since I have plenty of time, I'm thinking I might switch to larger JBD 24v 300A BMS and go with the Samlex Evo-4024. I think I can save around $500 by going that direction by doing the following:
  • Eliminate the Lynx (-$140) - The SCC will plug directly into the Samlex. And I'll go with an inverter in the truck which will plug into the generator port on the Samlex.
  • Eliminate the DC-DC charger (-$220) - replace it with a small MSW inverter in the truck and an extension cord.
  • Downsize the SCC (-$370) - at 24V I can get by with a Smartsolar 100/50.
  • Eliminate the Cerbo (-$300) - If my only Victron gear is the SCC and the Orion (24v>12v). I don't think I'll get much use from the cerbo.
  • Those would more than make up for the added costs of the Samlex vs the Multiplus ($100), the MSW inverter in the truck ($100), The larger wires ($200), and the Orion ($140)
That is similar to my truck camper setup. Growatt 24v All in One, 250a Daly BMS, aux alternator tied to an inverter to transfer power to Growatt AC input. I can run the roof AC off the inverter but it takes 51 amps. Later this year, roof air is coming off and mini split will be installed. Added a box on rear of camper to house GW and it has a thermostatically controlled fan on the bottom and a port on the side. Both are marine ports with the sealing oring. Works great, really the fan never runs, just the GW fans. One can always leave the door open if it isn't raining.
 

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  • Growatt camper.jpg
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You could skip the buck converter and power the ac2dc converter from the inverter/charger.
Makes integration a piece of cake.
I wouldn't as that is standby draw. I still have the ac to dc converter installed but it is switched and only used for when I run the power jacks.

My buck converter draws 0.004a on standby. I never turn it off. I took all the circuits from the ac to dc converter and ran them to a 12v fuse panel. I also have a 24v fuse panel on the other side of the camper.
 
Here are some progress photos. I still need to cleanup some things, but since my camper won't be here for another couple months, I'm not in a big hurry.
 

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Here is a revised layout and schematic. I went a bit overboard with the #2 wire and breakers, since I had extra wire and 125a mega fuses.
 

Attachments

  • Solar5 WIRING.pdf
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  • Solar5 Main Layout.pdf
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