Truck Camper: Convert to Lithium (from FLA) vs Solar Generator + portable panels

[Aussieguy]

No turning off solar.... it works as you drive and when you are stopped for sightseeing etc
and then will also work while you are at campsite

get a dedicated mppt sized to maximum panels you can fit... include a way to combine a ground array when you setup camp

Use alternator ---> dc-dc when driving
both will work together or separately
and you won't be worrying about turning switches

Maximize both outputs and accept NO compromises ... a combined mppt/dc-dc is a compromise
read the manual on power inputs and how it is shared.

dedicated dc-dc 30amp + dedicated solar 20amp = 50amp going into a battery
if you go bigger capacity battery you need every watt you can get from each charge source.
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To answer your question about bluetooth on 2 x batteries... on the app you will see two batteries
you lookup each battery to see it's cells and balance etc
SOC is good enough for camping usage

 

[Stircrazy]

The combined Renogy DC-DC/MPPT unit would limit each side to half the rated amount if both sides were active.

ok that makes since, you didn't mention it was the combined unit in the first post, so that's a different story. it is advertised as the total output so if its 50 amps it will only put out 50 amps weather it be from the dc to dc side or the solar side or a combination of both. being disappointed in this is another case of not reading before you buy and expecting something it isn't then getting mad at the company because you (the person who bought it, not you) bought the wrong thing for your needs. I find this is over half the issue people have with products, they didn't research enough and bought something that won't work how they wanted it to.

 

[HRTKD]

ok that makes since, you didn't mention it was the combined unit in the first post, so that's a different story. it is advertised as the total output so if its 50 amps it will only put out 50 amps weather it be from the dc to dc side or the solar side or a combination of both. being disappointed in this is another case of not reading before you buy and expecting something it isn't then getting mad at the company because you (the person who bought it, not you) bought the wrong thing for your needs. I find this is over half the issue people have with products, they didn't research enough and bought something that won't work how they wanted it to.

I haven't looked at the original brochure for that product in a few years. As I recall, it was not clearly spelled out how it worked. There were a lot of buyers that came on the forum asking why it didn't work.

 

[olympic]

No turning off solar.... it works as you drive and when you are stopped for sightseeing etc
and then will also work while you are at campsite

get a dedicated mppt sized to maximum panels you can fit... include a way to combine a ground array when you setup camp

Use alternator ---> dc-dc when driving
both will work together or separately
and you won't be worrying about turning switches

Maximize both outputs and accept NO compromises ... a combined mppt/dc-dc is a compromise
read the manual on power inputs and how it is shared.

dedicated dc-dc 30amp + dedicated solar 20amp = 50amp going into a battery
if you go bigger capacity battery you need every watt you can get from each charge source.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To answer your question about bluetooth on 2 x batteries... on the app you will see two batteries
you lookup each battery to see it's cells and balance etc
SOC is good enough for camping usage

Thanks for all the input. I did put a purchase in for a single Epoch 300ah mini with BT and self heating.

I’m still tempted by the combo dc to dc charger/ mppt. I’m thinking IF I add a portable panel at some point such as with a portable kit, I’d have a means to have it charge the camper batteries without getting a separate controller. If I reserve that for portable ground use and perhaps extend a port to the side of the camper somewhere then it wouldn’t compete with the truck charge as they would t be used at the same time. Well I guess if I idled the truck they could potentially but I’d be aware of that situation. But hey if the combo unit is more $ than just each being stand alone then I couid buy two different pieces of equipment. Just thought I’d kill two birds with one stone so to speak.

When I add more roof panels, and I don’t have a lot of room, I’d get a separate controller for that or upgrade the existing one in my camper if I’m able to Y another in with that existing panel and not have to drop another site of wires. I believe I have 10 gauge wire in place for that setup right now On the roof it looks like the wire from the panel clips into a plug that was roof mounted. I don’t know if I could Y that for a second panel. That second panel would have a longer wire run over to that Y. I’m not sure if that 10 gauge wiring through the camper would support another 150-200w on it along with the current 170 watt panel. Sheesh, I seem to just be creating more and more work for myself. But hey I’m learning a lot.

 

[HRTKD]

I’m still tempted by the combo dc to dc charger/ mppt. I’m thinking IF I add a portable panel at some point such as with a portable kit, I’d have a means to have it charge the camper batteries without getting a separate controller. If I reserve that for portable ground use and perhaps extend a port to the side of the camper somewhere then it wouldn’t compete with the truck charge as they would t be used at the same time. Well I guess if I idled the truck they could potentially but I’d be aware of that situation. But hey if the combo unit is more $ than just each being stand alone then I couid buy two different pieces of equipment. Just thought I’d kill two birds with one stone so to speak.

That's a reasonable use case.

 

[Dave in AZ]

Every time I look at the Renogy dcdc/mppt chargers, I find some disappointing spec that makes them unsuitable. Was bored so here are their products and issues:
1. Renogy 40A DC-DC Battery Charger with MPPT.
* this device cannot charge from both sources simultaneously
2. DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT

• Max solar panel input voltage upgraded to 50V. (Used to be even worse!)

3. DCC30S 12V 30A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT

• Max solar panel input voltage upgraded to 30V. (30v, that's right... so low...)

Both 2 and 3 above share the total 30A or 50A output between alternator and solar, and have their own priority to do so which may not match your desires.

Better to get their low cost individual units, for about same price, but much better specs. Their 20A mppt does 12-95v for $80, combine with their 20/30/40/50/60A dcdc chargers, you get full power as YOU desire from each source.
Kisae has some combo dcdc mppt units that have better specs, I think.

 

[olympic]

Every time I look at the Renogy dcdc/mppt chargers, I find some disappointing spec that makes them unsuitable. Was bored so here are their products and issues:
1. Renogy 40A DC-DC Battery Charger with MPPT.
* this device cannot charge from both sources simultaneously
2. DCC50S 12V 50A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT

• Max solar panel input voltage upgraded to 50V. (Used to be even worse!)

3. DCC30S 12V 30A DC-DC On-Board Battery Charger with MPPT

• Max solar panel input voltage upgraded to 30V. (30v, that's right... so low...)

Both 2 and 3 above share the total 30A or 50A output between alternator and solar, and have their own priority to do so which may not match your desires.

Better to get their low cost individual units, for about same price, but much better specs. Their 20A mppt does 12-95v for $80, combine with their 20/30/40/50/60A dcdc chargers, you get full power as YOU desire from each source.
Kisae has some combo dcdc mppt units that have better specs, I think.

For #1 isn’t that a good thing? With this approach it’s not splitting the charge across two legs. When my truck is running I’d be able to make full use of the 40 A. When my truck is not running full use by solar. My thought was I the only likely use the solar side for portable if I add that. The 50 V cap likely wouldn’t be an issue for portable I don’t think.

 

[HRTKD]

The 50 V cap likely wouldn’t be an issue for portable I don’t think.

Maybe. I used fairly large panels for my ground deployment setup. Series would exceed 50v easily, by 30v. So parallel would be the only way to make use of the two panels with Renogy device. The solar charge controller I used for the setup is a Victron 100/50 so I could go either series or parallel and not be limited.

My future ground deployed setup (the old setup was sold with the camper) will use smaller panels, mainly because I'm tired of humping 44 lbs of bulky solar panel in and out of the camper.

 

[Dave in AZ]

For #1 isn’t that a good thing? With this approach it’s not splitting the charge across two legs. When my truck is running I’d be able to make full use of the 40 A. When my truck is not running full use by solar. My thought was I the only likely use the solar side for portable if I add that. The 50 V cap likely wouldn’t be an issue for portable I don’t think.

No. If it can only do one at a time, why even have a combo unit?? Buy separate ones, better specs, same total price.

Basically the only time I personally have camper not shaded, is when driving on road. I pull in to camp in afternoon, sun is gone. If I can't pull solar midday while driving, it's never available or used. If I camp during day, there is always shade. Your situation may be different, but why limit yourself to these combo unit issues, when you can do better, same company, same price.

You seem like you are married to these inferior combo units, for some reason, despite clear cut specs and prices and folks giving you feedback. Consider why you are so married to the idea. Next month your "normal usage" or plan may change. Don't throw away potential charging for no good reason.

 

[olympic]

No. If it can only do one at a time, why even have a combo unit?? Buy separate ones, better specs, same total price.

Basically the only time I personally have camper not shaded, is when driving on road. I pull in to camp in afternoon, sun is gone. If I can't pull solar midday while driving, it's never available or used. If I camp during day, there is always shade. Your situation may be different, but why limit yourself to these combo unit issues, when you can do better, same company, same price.

You seem like you are married to these inferior combo units, for some reason, despite clear cut specs and prices and folks giving you feedback. Consider why you are so married to the idea. Next month your "normal usage" or plan may change. Don't throw away potential charging for no good reason.

I’m not married to the idea. Im trying to understand in the way I see myself using it why it’s not a good idea. I’m limited on space as it’s a slide in truck camper. I was just thinking one unit to do two jobs. I see your point about not making use of additional Solar if I was planning on using it for a permanent roof mount panel(s). I’ve been convinced a stand alone unit is better there. I’m envisioning this particular mppt function for portable panels and tbh I don’t see myself flying those panels in the wind as I’m cruising down the interstate. My existing panel has its own controller and would continue to charge during those daylight drives.

Apparently I’m a little slow here and just not understanding why a separate unit would be better for portable panels. I was thinking one piece of equipment for my DC to DC charging that could accommodate portable panels would be a good thing. Maybe I’m better off buying dedicated for each. One for DC to DC, one for portable, the existing one for my current panel and then another one if I expand what is on the roof.

 

[Dave in AZ]

I’m not married to the idea. Im trying to understand in the way I see myself using it why it’s not a good idea. I’m limited on space as it’s a slide in truck camper. I was just thinking one unit to do two jobs. I see your point about not making use of additional Solar if I was planning on using it for a permanent roof mount panel(s). I’ve been convinced a stand alone unit is better there. I’m envisioning this particular mppt function for portable panels and tbh I don’t see myself flying those panels in the wind as I’m cruising down the interstate. My existing panel has its own controller and would continue to charge during those daylight drives.

Apparently I’m a little slow here and just not understanding why a separate unit would be better for portable panels. I was thinking one piece of equipment for my DC to DC charging that could accommodate portable panels would be a good thing. Maybe I’m better off buying dedicated for each. One for DC to DC, one for portable, the existing one for my current panel and then another one if I expand what is on the roof.

I tried to decipher your oening post, but too many options for me to figure. But yah, it looks like you do have most of your setup. If you just want a for sure very limited solar, under 30V or 50V, maybe the combo would fit you. But virtually all 200W and up panels have 25-40V Voc now, so you can't even do 2 in series in cold weather on those combo. And that means you might be getting amp limited by them too in parallel, so if you had 2x200W for 400W, you'd cap yourself at 300W. Depends on which renogy and which panels... but it's a really poor and low limit with zero growth or add on potential, and that generally means it is a bad choice.

These boxes are 6"x 5" or so, you can fit 2.

 

[olympic]

I tried to decipher your oening post, but too many options for me to figure. But yah, it looks like you do have most of your setup. If you just want a for sure very limited solar, under 30V or 50V, maybe the combo would fit you. But virtually all 200W and up panels have 25-40V Voc now, so you can't even do 2 in series in cold weather on those combo. And that means you might be getting amp limited by them too in parallel, so if you had 2x200W for 400W, you'd cap yourself at 300W. Depends on which renogy and which panels... but it's a really poor and low limit with zero growth or add on potential, and that generally means it is a bad choice.

These boxes are 6"x 5" or so, you can fit 2.

Okay I better understand why you are steering me away from the combo unit. It could be a limiting factor if I do decide to go with a decent sized portable panel(s). I’ll keep that in mind. Thanks

 

[olympic]

Maybe. I used fairly large panels for my ground deployment setup. Series would exceed 50v easily, by 30v. So parallel would be the only way to make use of the two panels with Renogy device. The solar charge controller I used for the setup is a Victron 100/50 so I could go either series or parallel and not be limited.

My future ground deployed setup (the old setup was sold with the camper) will use smaller panels, mainly because I'm tired of humping 44 lbs of bulky solar panel in and out of the camper.

Thanks and yeah I’m better understanding the limitations. With a camper I’d be likely trying to minimize space utilization so likely not lots of panels or really large panels. A folding 200w would likely be the largest I envision right now. I’d probably also add one more panel to the roof. I have to figure out best way to deal with wiring that in. Would be nice to Y it in with current Zamp 170w panel but I have to research what is best and what the 10 gauge existing wiring can handle. Would be great not to have to put more wires through the roof but might be needed.

 

[HRTKD]

Would be nice to Y it in with current Zamp 170w panel but I have to research what is best and what the 10 gauge existing wiring can handle. Would be great not to have to put more wires through the roof but might be needed.

If the 170w panel has room to "grow", replace it with a larger panel. If you have 10 gauge wire, you can probably fill the roof with PV and not max out that wire. If you increase the volts, while not going wild with the amps (which means series connections most likely), 10 gauge will be fine.

 

[Zwy]

Ya, why be held to any statements one makes?

These forums seem to be littered with folks who have an ax to grind or work for an outfit who badmouth their competition.

As I stated to each their own.

I don't have an axe to grind and I don't work for any supplier. Be careful what you accuse members of, you just might need their assistance someday.

because we all know Facebook is always true ... the problems I see mostly are from miss installation, or from people not reading specs and expecting something else. berry rarely do I see the product actually mess up, I am sure it happens with every brand but not as much as "Facebook, the all knowing authority" leads one to believe.

Read above. Lighten up, you even jumped on HRTKD.

It is either moon cycle or some Religious thing.

 

[Aussieguy]

I used the existing 10g wiring roof to controller as my panels produced 35v (370w panels)
only needed to upgraded the controller to battery wiring as the voltage

maximize the panels on the roof keeping them matched for output
don't mix panels without working out potential losses....
even if it means replacing the old panel and getting newer more efficient ones

connect panels to give you a higher voltage so the amps can be less if you are worried about the 10g
small camper the 10g should handle around 30amps
series or parallel the panels to suit the wiring


if you got a PWM for the roof panel ditch it and get mppt ... sized to match panels

Keep old PWM and panel for the ground array

If space is a premium get a weather proof electrical box attach it in a suitable outside location

research if you can lift panels a bit higher to go over the top of small roof protrusions

 

[Zwy]

Deleted